My Huge Rust Repair Mistake! Doing It Right Is Way Easier. Plymouth Sport Satellite Restoration PT 5 

Find out the easiest way to get to sleep, and stay asleep when you click shopbeam.com/TheQuestionableGarage and use code QUESTIONABLE to get up to 35% at checkout.

It doesn't matter what you're building, what matters to me is that YOU are building it. Not just calling in random pros to do the work, but do it backyard diy style. ❤ stay motivated brother!!

I’m glad you included footage of the pups playing. It was really sweet.

After watching other channels just slap things together, splash some paint and call it done, it's nice to see someone who actually cares about the car and the results he gets. Cheers Jared!

In this episode of The Questionable Garage, Jared kills the rust, and Dwayne kills the editing.

It puts the rust converter on its frame or else it gets the rust again.

Good of your twin brother to come in and help ! It's called Rust Converter, because it converts RUST, so you have to have SOME rust on the Body-shell, for the Rust-converter to Convert , to a Phosphate { Fe PO4 } !

It's always nice having 2 Jareds on a project

This has been such a great project. I’m sure that you will be enjoying this car for years. Every time you walk out to drive it you’ll know that you built it, and every time you park it you will look back at it and feel proud.

Jared makes the best "one mechanic" videos on Utube!

A guy said that you remove the loose flakes and the chemicals strip the oxygen out of the rust and that way, you leave way more metal behind

Get this guy to 500k already

Jared, honestly, all of the air conditioner and fan noises isn't a problem. We would rather have you blowing fans on you to keep you alive then you worrying about the audio because with a lavalier, we hear you fine. Keep those fans on and stay cool. We can hear you!

I’m not usually good about reading instructions but if I’m in uncharted territory with something I’ve never used before I will give ‘em a quick read. I did pick up on leaving some surface rust so the reaction can happen. It seems to work pretty well, I have a few things I coated a few years ago that seem to be holding up.

I worked in a MOPAR restoration shop for a few years, their go to for rust converter was a product called RustMort, stuff was incredible at converting rust to solid metal, had to be careful with it though because if it got on your concrete floor and sat for too long or a painted surface you didn’t want to treat it would completely strip the paint and eat holes in your concrete. Definitely as soon as you’re done applying it you need to dilute everything that wasn’t meant to be treated with water so you didn’t cause any damage lol. Oh and for a nice white you should check out Ferrari’s Bianco Avorio, very nice creamy white that would look incredible on your car.

ahhhhh so happy seeing the car with rust converter it just brings the metal back life this car is amazing

a converter sealer is much better than just a converter. epoxy enamel like rustoleum or white knight are awesome for sealing and protecting metal for decades, they can also go straight on rusty surfaces without the need of a converter or primer, just read the instructions. i put money on that the sweet patina is a rebadged epoxy enamel. P.S primer has no protection.

Awesome Video! I’m glad you’re going as in depth as you are as it’ll all be worth it once you’re done! We’re men and don’t need to read the instructions haha! As far as a white paint I hope you seriously consider Alpine White. It’s a period correct white for B body Mopars and I think it would be the *Chefs kiss* to this restoration! Awesome job Jared Keep up the awesome work.

Nobody else is doin what you do and you just need to keep on doin it! Love it!

Rust conversion on the cheap waterblast loose rust then degrease and finally paint with Phosphoric Acid. Phosphoric Acid converts rust breaking down the iron oxide and converting it to iron phosphate, which is black in colour. This inert layer then acts as a barrier layer or protective coating. You can then Prime and Paint. This is used in steel boats exposed to salt water they leave steel exposed to rust so they can treat it prior to paint.

Sweet Patina has good products. Have you tried the hand wipes? They work and work good. Car is coming along nice Jared. You're doing a good job and your methods are going to be worth it when you finally get it finished and it will show and be rewarding. One more thing. I did not know I was doing it wrong either so, you're not the only one.

Coating the inside of the panels for sound deadening is a really good idea, and it should help a lot. Mopars always sounded like they were made out of old beer cans. I like some of the old Mopars, but they are notoriously tinny sounding rattle traps , and the starters sound like they are broken... I could look past those faults for an AAR Cuda or an R/T Challenger though.

After a good laugh about Buffalo Bill momma said that is your next T-Shirt "It puts the black on or gets the rust again" gotta love it. You make it I will buy it.

Cars and doggies the best combination

Jared, you mentioned not having to remove every ounce of rust. I think you meant to say every pound of rust.

So then I have been using the rust converter correctly this whole time... I figured so as one of the few guys who read directions and then make decisions to follow them or not. 😛

I have always used phosphoric acid to convert the rust and stop it. never had a problem with it, just put it in a spray bottle and spray it on.

For the rust converter question - I actually had Rustoleum explain that to me once upon a time. Way back when support lines actually took calls, so it wasn't common sense to me at the time either. Without the rust, there were ingredients in Rustoleum that couldn't be absorbed...and I went....HUH.

Loving this build and the craftsmanship going into it.

Hello again, Jared Thank you for another Great Video 👍 I enjoyed watching tonight's video. It always amazes me when you realized, oops I did wrong 😬 but then you figured out how to do it correctly. It's that uh ha moment 😊. Now for the snuff on your hands. A hand brush and a bottle of Dawn dish soap and your in business 😊 Again thank you

Dear Jared it's called How to do the wrong thing and make it turn out the right way.Great video and work as always.

Hey Jared, great car and not an easy one to find these days. I’ve done auto body and restoration for about 25 years and quite a bit on Mopars. You are doing a great job and doing the very best job any guy can do on his own in his own garage. I wouldn’t change a thing!

Now you have this fancy laser welder....I remember to have seen a video where they change some settings and actually clear the rust off by using the laser

You are going to love that Satellite when it's done. I am also a fan of that sweet Testarossa pickup truck.

I definitely knew that the converter goes over rust haha. I said, what he didn't know that?

I'm so happy that you put your videos out Thursday. Keep them coming!

It does seem counterintuitive to not take all the rust off first, but it is also in the name....rust CONVERTER. If you didn't leave some rust, what would there be to convert? 😂

May I suspect you were the only person not knowing you needed rust for the rust converter? I mean, It needs rust to convert to... Well, I dunno what it converts it into but it still needs rust. Also, IF you have time to watch someone that went completely the other way you did to have their own dream car go watch his channel called "My mechanics", where he's restauring his Datsun 240Z and he normally restore everything from knives to tools to video game consoles, etc. And your restoration and his restoration are both different, yet really cool to watch.

THE FLOOFYGOOFS ARE ADORABLE BEYOND REASON!!!

I only know because the head mechanic told me. He had me remove large rust parts on a plow truck and blow it off and then pant the rust converter on it.

I have always used the "Undercarriage/Chassis" Aerosol rubber based crap, that always leads to a mess that only Mineral Spirits can clean, but leave the hands raw. Mat Style sound deadening is MUCH heavier, but it is "easier" to apply...

I have used POR 15v for a few projects and actually read the instructions, so I knew you needed to have rust to use.

This is a great video for those people who comment saying “you should fully restore that car” on ever revivel video. Because they don’t know what it takes to do it

I hit the like button just for the puppies playing 🐶 Love the Double Jareds too!

I really need to get my arse into gear with my project,and this is very motivational,thanks man.

14:13 - I did. We used rust converter on city streetcars, when ever we replaced floor or window glass. Trolley bodies aren’t galvanized. After five years some areas were rusted rotten. Especially under window seals.

I had no clue thanks for clearing that up about the rust

The entire series is under the auspice of "trust the process". Something people should do more - given how many abandoned projects there are out there, mid way through the process of repair. When it's done, it's going to be a solid bones car. That's what matters.

As far as stirring vs shaking, the latter will incorporate air bubbles, some heavy coating s will damage a shaker. Fyi

Whats crazy about this is the truth of this being "Good Condition". This Satellite is going to be great when you're done, and really enjoy watching this! I built a 1970 Charger on my channel, and this is really taking me back to where I was at a few years ago on my project! Cant wait to see this thing done!

Really liked the bunny....

Rust Converters, I wish to mention, has a minimum (and maximum) application temperature. If applied and/or dried outside of that range, the converter's chemistry WILL NOT CONVERT the rust properly/reliably. Also, keep the surface to be treated as dry as you can before using the converter. I've had good luck with using a heat-lamp to toast the surface with, but then I make sure that the metal is down to the 'acceptable temperature range' before I treat it with rust converter. Water in the rust can let the rust continue to spread. That's also why you have to get off the removable visible portions of rust. I was always 'polishing the rust' down to a smoother-red-metal with a steel wire wheel before using rust converter on it. And no, you're not the only one to make that mistake! I have done both the 'grind ALL the rust off before using Converter' and the 'Apply it when it is too cold/wet out' things. Converter on bare metal is effectively 'weak paint', so that could be worse. When applied to still-rusty metal, though, it converts the 'red rust' to a 'black rust' which is 'smaller', and it clings to/inside the rust. "Red rust" flakes up and is 'larger' than the original steel or the black form of rust. I think only red rust 'likes to hold onto humidity from the air', but I may be wrong there and maybe both do. I toasted all of mine with a heat lamp before using converter, though. Below temperature application of the converter makes it VERY weak paint, and it ends up being very prone to flaking off. It often won't convert the rust it was used upon, of course. The chemistry of the converter REQUIRES a certain temperature so the chemical involved can do its job. If you use it below the application range, the chemistry can evaporate out/polymerize before it gets to do anything useful to the rust. Treat the temperature ranges of Rust Converter as ABSOLUTES instead of as a suggestion. The chemistry of it DEFINITELY matters.

I didn't know, but it does make sense! Thanks Jared!

you're definitely not the only one. we use extend on basically all steel flight control surfaces on the interior of them, and i had to explain to my boss who is the type of guy that has been doing the same thing the same way for 55 years that you need rust for rust converter to do anything

Well it does say 'rust converter ' and you can't convert what isn't there.

I know B is for Build use Steel-it since it can be welded through, wonder if you might want to use that on this project too?

Sorry Jared. I would do a wire brush, rust converter then primer. The stuff I used was clear, so you could watch it turn cloudy white to black.

This is going to be an exceptional car 👍🏼 Love the big puppies

5:42 yeah. You just want to "upset" the topmost oxidation layer, which is actually... very resistant to various chemical processes and expose the rusted metal under. Then the chemical has where to bite and work its magic. It's kinda like when you're helping a friend move. You put the dump truck under the window and let them throw stuff in. I think. I've never made the mistake of volunteering my back for moving. One episode of "piVOt" was enough.

Clue in name, 'RUST' converter! lol. Dogs are gorgeous. 😊😊😊

Hi Jared nice video 📹 and workmanship the car is turning out SWEEEET

At one point I read that you were supposed to leave rust converter on rust, the instruction would say something like "DO NOT use on bare metal", so I figured I would wire wheel it, lay rust converter, then sand it again over the areas that didn't have much rust, so the converter would at least get into the pores where the rust was, but wasn't still on bare metal. Then I'd do 2 layers of primer

I'm so happy to see that you're leaving it as a Sport Satellite! Too many Roadrunner clones out there. Sport Satellites are great cars and look beautiful.

Mr. Jared, it ain’t just you. In my mind, I want to get rid of rust, so I wire wheel / metal brush the crap away until the oxide turns to silver. But you know what, chicken butt. It’s great to watch these videos and be a fly on the wall on your journey.

Great episode! I’m enjoying watching your progress and learning a lot. It was awesome seeing your adorable fuzzy shop managers and the dream sequence for the product placement was really creative and entertaining. Editor Duane knocked it out of the park again with the music selection. Keep up the great work!

Great buffalo bill joke 😂

My wife asked me what kind of expensive car or truck I would buy if we won the lottery. I backed up the question and told her a smaller house with a much bigger garage. Then I would buy old cars and trucks to wrench and bang on. My 2016 V8 F150 is all I need as my daily. She wants a Porsche Cayenne GTS which shocked me but sounds like a fun car to drive. Watching Jared fuels my dream of someday getting this accomplished lottery or not.

Puddin’s fab shop loves sweet patina

I’ve use practically all of the rust treatments on my builds . Rustolium rusty metal primer works as good or better than any for a fraction of the cost. Same process as you are using

The dream Plymouth coming along nicely! Man, that pooka sure is spooky. Cheers! 😎👍🏎🏁🏁🐰

Using the wire brush method, is also known as the "Brown Lung" even with a face mask...

You can contact a mobile sandblasting company that does the dustless sandblasting so you don’t have to worry about moving the car or worry about the heat since they use water with media

Slowly, but dont call me me Shirley ;) Coming along awesome, cant wait to see more

Love the vid! Yeah at first I didn't know that you were post to leave the rust. Then one day I decide to read the instructions.

Jarrad is going all Jonny Darko LOL. I will say I use rust converter for the residual pits not as a full surface coat rust converter and then epoxy seal it. It always seems to come back if I do the knock off the loose and paint with an encapsulating paint on cheaper metal. Old mopar metal is probably good to go. Basically the way Steve did the dart's roof on road kill garage is the method I have found works best.

If the factory used a sound deadening coating, they would have sprayed for .27367 seconds!! 🤣🤣

For you guys who aren't getting products free/ hawking making money from. Go to auto parts store and grab some cans of undercoating to use for a sound deadener. Works just as well and is immensely cheaper.

Glad to see you had a couple of guys helping you! 😁✌️

A 70 satellite is really cool

Sweet Patina!!! Smells Good!

Ice blasting seems to work pretty well

Just like you need to leave some food on your dishes when you use a dishwasher. I have been told the fat /grease help to wash. But no I did not know about needing to leave some rust on.

Honestly I think think he is going to end up with a genuinely cool car out of this. ☝😀 Being a ...larger guy myself I do recommend installing air conditioning later...😳 especially if you want to yanno...drive it....anywhere....consistently

Continue to love the work you do Jared! Also, lol, I did get a chuckle at the lotion/hose bit...it landed for me haha. Keep up the great work!! I'm super, SUPER keen to see how the Satellite goes...I know it's gonna be awesome!

Oh no the cameras on! stop!...... why did that crack me up so much? just so darn cute

It's cool seeing you do this. I really don't care where you are going with this..i'm just here for the ride

I will probably never use this knowledge but I am excited to see how the car turns out!

"On the surface, this car looks bad" The surface is missing😂 i hope that cures the ol' girl's arthritis.

Don't forget to open up the drain holes in the doors..

We learn everyday, Jared you do whatever is wrong as long as you do it right...and this build will be right even if it's wrong...Questionable but that makes sense

I want more videos of the dogs

Some good progress

GPs are awesome puppers.I love my 2 GPs

I would have used EvapoRust 5 gallons an immersion pump some big plastic at the bottom of the car to collect al the liquid and do the cycle in a few hours the car will be clean of rust

The doggos are back - the owner has gone up +1001 XP

One suggestion - why not treat with Phosphoric acid and then coat? You'll get a nice layer of iron phosphate as a barrier once the acid neutralizes the rust, then put the added barrier over it?

My God bless talk and more work

😮my friend pete would have taught u all the stuff yourr talkin about. Hes a little gard to watch but a wealth of knowledge

thanks for bring us a long on your nightmare of a dream car. what the heart wants

Awesome work Jared, also very informative. Keep up the awesome work.