The point of the backbar is so the bow is balanced to the point that even with your eyes closed the bow naturally levels itself out and lets face it when you're heart is pounding from a giant buck 20 yards away from you who is really paying attention to the bubble level on your sight I know that I am not that calm on a doe so a backbar with enough weight on it to naturally level itself out is the way to go Levi Morgan is excellent at explaining everything.
At 20 yds, you could tilt your bow 15 degrees either direction and it would make almost no difference. They make sense for western long-range hunters for sure, but the average eastern whitetail hunter gets very little bang for the buck (no pun intended)
That’s Levi’s explanation of a back bar theres far more people using a back bar to add bias into the system rather than make the bow sit level. Far far more. When something is perfectly balanced it’s very easy to manipulate in both directions. When something has bias you’re only fighting the bow in one direction and you have something to hold “against” which often leads to a steadier hold Levi himself uses lots of weight on his side bar. Although he’s explaining it as helping him hold the bow level he’s actually creating a bow that’s heavily weighted to one side. He’s adding bias to his bow as well whether he explains it that way or not.
@@michaelcolthart4006agree to disagree! I can see the plus and minus’s but as I stated at the end of the video I want something on the bow if it helps me shoot better at 60 for a 20 yard shot!
Was your bow tuned with the stabilizers on? Apparently your bow will tune different with stabilizers on than off. I had no idea Levi Morgan said it on a video I watched
I’m also real curious if the bridge lock stabilizers are worth it for the cost or if you get the same results from like a $300 set. I want the Mathews but if I can get a front and rear for the price of 1 Mathews
I agree. I do not have any of the devices to check vibration so I would love to see it myself. Only thing is I just love how good they look. Besides that I’d love to know if they’re worth it.
I have a lift 29.5 and have tried both bridge stabs and normal….they do the same thing. Bridge stabs are much more expensive and admittedly I think they look cool…..but old school stabs worked just as well for me.
Missing right would be from fighting your bubble on the right side not the left. Your misses should have been left if the blame is the level bubble. You can and would tighten up your left and right misses with a back bar by adding more weight to the front bar or removing weight from the back bar. In your case removing length from that back bar.
Correct i might’ve said it backwards haha apologies but i am still tinkering with the weights and positioning of the back bar. After this vid ive done more with the positioning of the back bar and feel my left misses are much better!
I was hoping to see this test done from a tree stand. I don’t have stabilizers at all because I don’t believe they matter when shooting from a tree stand 15ft in the air. But I’ve never tested it so I truly don’t know. My theory is that if I tune and dial my bow on flat ground by moving the stabilizers and adding weight here and there to make the hold great. When I go to a tree and I’m aiming down all that I did from flat ground no longer matters. But like I said I’ve never tried it. And I don’t think anyone on youtube does a video where they show if it makes a difference or not.
Good point, truthfully it shouldn’t matter if you’re elevated or shooting an incline. The whole point of a rear stabilizer (if set up correctly) is to level the bow without having to do so urself. So it should level the bow while elevated or shooting and incline! Anymore videos you would like to see? Let us know!! Thanks!
@@tullymahinI done a review on the lift it self! It is the video after this one if you go to our account! I have not done a full in depth review on my specific setup however
@huntncast9313 cool thanks. I just saw it on your channel I will check it out. I'm still waiting on my 33. I have been debating whether or not to get stabilizers at all. But they seem like they might help.
@@tullymahinI do 100% believe they do help. Before getting these on my bow (had to wait 2 months for the stabilizers to come in) my float on the target was very amplified. After the fact it’s much more stable. I do recommend a backbar even if this video doesn’t prove much I feel much more stable and if you have your weight correct on the rear stabilizer it makes aiming so much easier! Hope this helps!
IMO, ITS MOSTLY AN EXPENSIVE RIPOFF. I’ve used at least 8 different brands, models etc including a home made one of some junk carbon tube 5/8” diameter I found . Literally, the differences in feel and vibration was so insignificant. And the prices are crazy. Especially with the BIDEN induced inflation. But everything can be bought on the internet at about 40% of brand retail. Yes, you will not have exactly the pretty metal ends but parts can be bought that look pretty good. It will take some time find the metal fittings. Various tubing is fairly easy to locate. Been a couple of years since I did this so I post websites for things.
Aside from prices of the bridge lock the main question is are they really needed. And the round about answer is, what is ur application 😂. I do agree. The price of the bridge lock stabilizers are extreme. But man do they look good on the bow! Thanks for the comment
@@huntncast9313 Honestly, I get more "stabilization" with my 10" rear bar and 3 oz of weight than a 12" front bar with 2 oz. The rear bar just makes the bow sit better for me. IMO, hunting length front bars don't do much at all in that aspect. I really don't think we really get to feel what a stabilizer really does until we get to 20" or more out front. I have over 3lb of weights on the bars on my tournament bow, but it doesn't feel heavy at all once you're in your shot and aiming.
What part of his technique would you consider incorrect? I'm pretty new to shooting a bow and always ready to learn something. For me it seems like he is drawing with the bow slightly above head level for leverage using his back muscles instead of his arm only. Grip seems relaxed enough to not cause big amounts of torque when drawing, even though it gets a little more relaxed while in the aiming stage.
In the video it is correct form. I’m using my back to pull the bow back. Not my arm muscles. If you watch any archery at all you would know this. When drawing your bow you are supposed to use your lat not your arms. Thanks for trying though!
@@AkiDarkWolfthat is correct. I sometimes exaggerate my pulling by putting the bow further over my head (I am shooting 80lb) but I have no problem with pull the bow straight back keeping the bow in one spot. But that just tires you out quicker. Watch target archers. If you want to learn how to practice and keep your endurance up they have the best forms. By putting the bow a little above my head and pushing the bow and pulling with my back I’m not using my arm muscles at all. This is proper technique. Thank you!
