Thanks for the great feedback everyone Someone messaged a question about anchor storage now the Minn Kota battery is up front. I have a slim anchor that slips into the front well under the carpet flap. Also have a cutting board and a few other things stored in there. Cheers Matt
Fantastic build Matt. I have just purchased a 399 proline and looking to do some mods also. Great information in your vid. I can see that most of the frame is riveted. Did you need to do any welding?
Cheers Nope no welding. Rock solid with rivets. I have all the info and tech details here mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Good luck with the build. Enjoy it!
Absolutely love this vid I am thinking of doing the same to my 370 propline could u do a more in death videio of it fishing all the hatches and set up pls
hey Matt that's exactly what I want to avoid, so say distances from back of boat flat along floor to the hatch and hatch widths, hope this makes sense . cheers Paul.
Hey Matt I want to fit the back casting floors to my boat, I wont be buying a motor for a while and wondered if you could give me the angled cut out measurements, I will be getting the same motor,thanks in advance, cheers Paul.
Paul Goodey hey Paul Exactly which section do you need mate? Do you need the rear hatch door size? The rear middle hatch opening is actually not perfect on mine and I'm thinking of reducing the door size slightly because the motor can't be fully lifted without the hatch door open.
Awesome build Matt, as a fellow Aussie I have searched for Australian builds, found this on the TBN (Michael Lopez) channel. About to start at 3.4m Stacer project with my 14yr old, will be his first boat. Your build will serve as inspiration to ours, so thank you!!!! BTW, what are the hatch hinges you used?? They look very neat, i like the angled look. Thanks again! Adam & Riley, Melbourne 👍🏻🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺👍🏻
TheTorkerman-Adam Also, (just in case you haven't seen this) some of the info I've posted here may be helpful mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Cheers
Matt's Fishing Blog ok thanks, used to shop there when we lived in Sydney, had a 26ft Bertram mored at the spit, so yep... We were regular shoppers lol. Thanks, ill check out the blog!! Tight lines mate.
Scott Willis One piece drop in from whitworths. I've got some details and pics here mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-pimp-electrics/ Cheers
hello matt I've been looking at your webpage and starting to note all the supplies i need for my custom tinny, just like to know where you bought the Fuller Rapid Grip Gel?
Hi Andres Glad the info has been helpful. The gel came from Whitworths. Not the cheapest product but worth the extra cost for a better end product. Good luck with it.
great job matt, i am attempting the same sort off fit out on a 3.99 explorer, just a couple of questions, what sort of screws did you use to fix the timber? and did you use anything on the screws to stop the metals reacting. On your pull up tabs did you put a bolt through them or just staple them in place? Thanks Matt
Hi Desmond I used a stainless steel threaded screw from Whitworths. Here is a summary of the process: I put the floor down, drilled through the floor and frame, then hand tapped the hole with a threading die so the aluminium fame has a thread. I then used Tef Gel in each screw hole and on each screw before screwing stainless screws. The Tef Gel is a must to prevent galvanic corrosion. I used this method of tapping a thread for each hole rather than self tapping screws so I can unscrew the floor without the screws comming loose. I have read a lot about self tapping screws coming loose over time. This method takes longer but is well worth it IMO. For the pull tabs, I screwed through into the timber with a SS timber screw with washer to increase holding strength. Hope this helps mate
Nicely done mate, I'm doing something similar but a saltwater version with aluminum panels instead of wood, using SeaDek instead of carpet with my 2006 Quintrex 390 Explorer. I'm curious how much the boat now weighs with everything you've added?
Hey mate, not sure on the end weight. I estimated my on road weight at around 500kg including trailer. Trailer is 180kg, motor is 62kg, boat weight was 111kg, with the work done on guessing this is now around 220kg + motor. Sorry this is not exact. Hope it helps.
how come everyone goes with wood flooring and not aluminium? wouldnt the weight be very noticeable? or is the price difference that big? is there any other benefits of wood flooring? ease to cut and obtain?
Hey Matt, I have got my floor frame in, sturdy as, just wondered once you have the ply carpeted and fitted did you screw through the angle into the ply to secure it all?
Paul Goodey hey Paul I put the floor down, drilled through the floor and frame, then hand tapped the hole with a threading die so the aluminium fame has a thread. I then used Tef Gel in each screw hole and on each screw before screwing stainless screws. The Tef Gel is a must to prevent galvanic corrosion. I used this method of tapping a thread for each hole rather than self tapping screws so I can unscrew the floor without the screws comming loose. I have read a lot about self tapping screws coming loose over time. This method takes longer but is well worth it IMO. Cheers
Tom Roesler Hi Tom Somewhere between 13 & 14K. Boat + motor + Trailer $7600 (new), the wrap $1K (non essential but I love it), Minn Kota Riptide + charger + mount + battery ($2700), Build was around $2500 - carpet, timber, metal, rivets, screws, timber sealant, electrics, solder, live well, bilge pump, sounder etc etc. I budgeted as much as possible without compromising. Things that surprised me were the price of good glue, stainless steel staples, timber sealant. These were a lot more expensive than I expected. Non of this includes the time I spent. I loved every bit of doing it and so far its great on the water. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt
Chris Berge sounds awesome here are all the details on how I did the timber mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-flooring/ hope it helps. Let me know how it goes. Would love to see photos. Cheers!
Looks great Mat, I am doing a similar reno when I get my boat. A question with the transom supports left and right at top did you rivet the angle on ? did the rivets go all the way through? I have a finished paint job.
Paul Goodey Hi Paul. yep AA rivets all the way through. This was one of the trickiest sections because the transom has a subtle curve. Shipping the angle was not easy. The rivets were not a problem especially seeing they sit about 1ft above the waterline when at rest. Hope this helps. good luck with your boat
Paul Goodey Hi Paul. yep AA rivets all the way through. This was one of the trickiest sections because the transom has a subtle curve. Shapping the angle was not easy. The rivets were not a problem especially seeing they sit about 1ft above the waterline when at rest. Hope this helps. good luck with your boat
excellent build mate! i have a stacer 389 sea sprite. the 1.6mm bottom is proving to be a little weak. cracks near the right hand chine, doesnt like the inshore waves i think. is yours 1.6mm or 3mm?
Blitzcast Fishing New Caledonia cheers mate, mine is 1.6 as well. So far I've had no problems (touch wood). That said I try not to push her too hard and I tend to keep the plane angle a bit flat so the V is working the water more. Cuts a bit off the top end speed but it saves the hull. How bad are your cracks?
Matt's Fishing Blog im getting the 3rd crack repaired this week this 3rd crack is very small the other 2 were around 3 to 5 cm just 2 or 3 mm in from the chine weld. i might take ur advice and trim her down to get the v in more and see how i go. only on right hand side where she gets alot of chop. nothing on the left hand side. have had the boat since 2012.
Hi Levii, Somewhere between 13 & 14K. Boat + motor + Trailer $7600 (new), the wrap $1K (non essential but I love it), Minn Kota Riptide + charger + mount + battery ($2700), Build was around $2500 - carpet, timber, metal, rivets, screws, timber sealant, electrics, solder, live well, bilge pump, sounder etc etc. I budgeted as much as possible without compromising. Things that surprised me were the price of good glue, stainless steel staples, timber sealant. These were a lot more expensive than I expected. Non of this includes the time I spent. I loved every bit of doing it and so far its great on the water. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt
No Problems. I got so much information from on-line I really wanted to give back by sharing how I did things. I put plenty of info on my blog here: mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Nothing too serious, just an online diary really.
Hi Levii Paris The live well and pump are from Whitworths. It's only 30L but it's fine for what I'm doing and the size of the boat. If I was doing comps again I would definitely need more water. Here's a link to the live well www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=136&item=36463&intAbsolutePage= cheers Matt
Paul Goodey hey mate, the stern hatch measured from the inside has the following measurements: length: 425 (stern to bow) width: 440 the gap for the motor when the lid is down: 105. this gap is not big enough for the motor to be raised to locked up position. it needs to be 170 to be able to lock the motor up without opening the hatch. The lid is 320 long and 440 wide. All measurements are in mm and include attached carpet. I think the size would be fairly forgiving. the biggest consideration would be if you want to be able to raise the motor with the hatch closed. I have to open mine to raise the motor, which is fine because I only lock it up occasionally and when I do I just open the hatch (if that makes sense). I've got some images and drawing if you need clarification. If you want these just message me through my blog mattsfishingblog.com and I will email them to you. cheers Matt
