That was probably the best video i have ever seen ,to the point, clearly started information, with great video quality. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I will subscribe.
Lee makes a chart, that comes with their hardness testing die that you should check out. Its not velocity but pressure that causes lead cutting and leading of the bbl. (Like u said) It shows u a hardness compared to max load pressure. Copper has a bh of 90 vs lead alloy of 25.
Thanks CW.... excellent detailed explanation about gas checks and the tool...... Learned a little bit more.... I have seen some people using a old school paper cutter to cut a little bigger than the die strips to make more checks and waste less waste.... So a plain base bullet is a straight walled bullet without a ridge on the bottom? Right? Like a gas checked bullet has a small stepped ridge right?
Hey Michael guy work in are machine shop in mill made own die. I got hand full of his checks to try and some noe bullets from him. He been running flashing bc are copper we make to light or to thick.
You can also get sterling silver in sheets of varying thickness, You might try that too,,, ya never know when you are going to run into werewolf! Just saying.... BTW, an excellent video!
Very cool cw. We roll copper at work all to thick or to light of gauge. Think some of .8 or .10 in rolled once a month maybe. Guy work made own die in machine shop he been use a small lee press. He said swage bullets theo killer on a press. He tell swaged some hp in some flat points for 357mag in 44mag and did batch of 223 bullets
Good video. In my experience I agree that powder coating works great in pistol calibers. I have 2 Rossi lever action rifles with 20" barrels, a 357 and a 454 and I push my cast bullets over 1700fps in both with no leading, no smoke or messy lubes. Those loads are using standard, fast pistol powders, when looking for more and using slower burning magnum class powders I gas check the bullets with a plain base gas check and I can push velocity's much higher without leading. Once pressures and velocity go up with the hotter and longer powder burn down the barrel leading can occur making a mess. I use aluminum step flashing most times, .010" thick and at 64 cents / sheet it's very economical and works excellent. The powder coated bullets need to be resized anyhow so I apply the gas check at the same time with a cheap Lee Resize Kit. A couple pumps of my homemade spray lubricant (1oz of liquid Lanolin into 12oz of 100% alcohol in an old Dawn Power Spray bottle) makes everything really easy.
@tripplebeards3427 Just seat/size. They will be fine. I have not seen any split. I thought I had your email... But could not find it!! Amazon has GC alum flashing rolls .014 35 beans!
So I came across this old video of yours. I've been hashing around a couple of ideas around that I have some thoughts on to get some feedback. I'll start with the thought experiment first. I have two of the 22 reloaders percussion cap makers. They work however they are not well formed. Leaving big caps in the folds, that appears to allow a flame jump from one cylinder to the next on a revolver. And I've seen some chain fire with them. So I've been trying to come up a type of swage to tighten up the folds for a cleaner more uniform fit. These dies appear to have possibilities(of course at the correct size. For that matter make a better percussion caps to begin with. Now for the question... I noticed you talked a bit on powder coating. I've considering try to do some. Mostly to help visually identify black powder loads from higher pressured smokeless loads. However with B.P. loads I feel I still need my natural lubes, so the question is.. Do you think it's possible to get the powder coating to take on a individual bases on just the nose???. I have so many bullets I've designed per caliber as well to keep sorted visually as well Mountain man
Powder coating can have many uses. 100% I do not consider it a lube replacement in Black Powder. It wont appreciably change hardness but will durability and lead guarding. So if you could just PC part I see no issues. I have seen guys spray bullets with a spraygun guarding noses so just bearing surfaces get coated.
Man that GC on the PB bullet looks like a real winner!.... its looks something I need to invest in for my 35 rifles, not sure what to get yet. Good info on why GCs are needed, not alot of info out there even in the old Lyman manuals
@@cw2a So is this the tool Dima Prok was selling and he sold out to Matteson's? Veral Smith of LBT had one in the works but thats done I suspect. I think he's just selling off whatever didnt burn in the fire. How did you end up choosing this one over the others out there?
@@leveractiongypsy1848 A good friend Ricci Baird was in contact with them. He was impressed with there "caliber". Things just worked out. Did ya catch the live stream we did on Georgia Shooters couple weeks ago with Matteson's?
@@cw2a No Ill have to look it up and check it out. I did a cross state move to Utah a few months ago so I'm still getting my business up to speed. I'm getting ready to start shooting and loading again within the month
I haven't tried gas checks, all of my molds are plain base, and this is the first I've heard of gas checks for plain bases. I'm definitely interested! I've heard a lot of guys say that, all other things being equal, gas checks will tighten groups. Have you found that to be true with these plain base gas checks?
What would happen if you doubled the soda can material. Im very interested if it works. 6"×96" copper is around $50. 1000 Lyman gas checks are $45/1000. If you can use soda cand, thats a deal breaker. Please lmk. Do they have a .264/6.5mm? Those are almost always dold out..Im casting for that diameter. I enjoyed this video and process. Good job young fella.
Excellent demo. Do you know if there is a tool specifically made to size and clean lead cast bullet heal and base for both non gas check and gas check sizing. I use lee sizing dies will be willing to use any. I need to true the base because when it comes out of the mold it has a crease in it and uneven on the bottom.
Not thst I have seen. No. But if your not able to get a good cast, your mold may be the issue. Investigate. Be sure it can completely close and sprue plate is properly fit & tensioned. LEE molds have MANY ISSUES. I often need to address problems before I ever cast one.
Cousins ta the ones on the range that always get 1-3 pieces of your brass! AFTERNOON BROTHER!! Hope all well I dont hear from you enough! I MISS YA MAN!!!
Haha. True enough about Mr Keith. But checks overcome pressures encountered when seeing more velocity. I can do a aweful lot in some guns with just good fit, good alloy and powder coating. But a gas check is a good tool to know for every caster. Entirely omitting them, is only handicapping yourself. Tha ks for watching man!! 🙏💥🙏
Hum. Might not lie as flat but frankly every bullet I have tried had enough shank there. Good question, Ill have ta experiment next time i have a need.
