Just watching the set is scary but that take off is ....Un engagement tellement plus intense que le surf tracté qui à mon goût dessert la noblesse du big wave riding!
Good to have you back powerlines, we hope that you have more on Mavericks since December 25th 2023 when it started to really get big. May be the longest period of big waves in Mavericks history.
I rode big Sunset and Pipe in my youth (never this big). But I do remember that the most difficult part of riding big waves was staying with your board, or dealing with the bounce when dropping in. Often you would land in the wrong place when you re-connected. Back then we rode single-fins without leashes. So a lot of swimming was also involved. At least the crowds weren't bad.... especially when it was big.
No leashes?? You get two falls at Sunset. After you swim in and then back out to Kammie's Land to find your board getting blown by the trades....After two times.... You just paddle in because you're you're so beat, you'll probably fall a third time... I surfed Sunset for four years.... I thought nothing could be heavier than those big boils and 15' west peaks. Sure Waimea.... But the Bay was infrequent. This take off? The commitment is 10x more impressive than the skill to make the drop, which was CRAZY too.
LOL. I remember surfing Sunset when it was closing out to Kammieland. I've surfed big Ocean Beach, but never Mavericks. Warm Hawaii water is not too bad, but that freezing cold tightens your muscles, and its hard to get air after a hold-down.@@francus7227
Biggest paddle in I've ever seen. Might have searched for this exact video before this even happened.. but only by a couple of days. Are my searches becoming reality in real time? Anyway.. coolest 2 minutes of surfing I've ever seen
@@BebtelovimabGood explanation. I've made air drops on small waves, head high to a couple feet overhead. It's totally different because it happens so quick. I would do it on purpose sometimes just for fun and to learn. Just wait a little longer to start the pop up. Time it so my hands leave the board and I'm crouched and centered right as the wave goes vertical and the board starts to drop. I used to extend my legs midair during the drop to keep my feet connected to the board, finishing the pop up just on landing. My legs would be close to, but not fully extended on landing. Then, I could compress and absorb the landing. Then, like a compressed spring apply pressure to the board to accelerate through the bottom turn. I wouldn't paddle out at Mavs on a bet. I tip my cap to those who do. Incredible drop on this one. Respect
@@BebtelovimabAbsolutely, it takes serious skill and commitment. Luck plays a pretty big role though, for sure. There's just a fraction of a second between controlled freefall and getting pitched and annihilated. As you wrote, more luck to not get torqued on the landing. That's where things get really interesting 'cause it's basically impossible to penetrate. So several options are on the menu, belly flop to bodysurf, cartwheel, skip like a stone, etc. I've skipped like a stone all cattywompus in front of a triple-overhead barrel and wouldn't recommend it for fun. It was disorienting. Then, it's either all that water mass landing on 'em tryin' to squash 'em like a bug or up and over for the grand slam, all whilst being mindful to get a breath and some air in the lungs as it'll have to last a while. Then, they may very well charge again haha.
The background music was made with our foghorn that’s in the end. We sent that actual clip and Steve Freeman made a song just a couple days prior to this video. We think Steve did an amazing job! 🙌
Why did he take so long to stand up - that's why he had to take the drop then he straightens out. I've seen much better footage of Mavericks with balls to the wall guys charging. This old school long board stuff is out dated. You're suppose to be using the length of the board to get you on the wave early but they're so unresponsive forcing you to straighten out. Then if you get hit from behind by the lip you can get a serious injury.
