TheCarPassionChannel awwwwww u playa playa! Main Miata and a side Miata too! Nice... 😂 PS you should put the street coilovers on broke and boosted if they are indeed still good
Hey Greg, one thing that would make a great addition to the video is a note about not over torquing the rear lower shock bolt. And to be careful on removal. There's a square nut held in with a weld cage inside the A-arm. Over torquing or not using some penetrant on removal can cause the cage to break away, and you're stuck either replacing the whole A-arm or cutting an access window into the lower A-arm to get access to the nut. Both are options that are not fun. I remember vividly trying to fit an a-arm with still attached shock into my garbage can when I did this years ago. It's also when I realized my torque wrench had newton meters on one side and ft lbs on the other, and you should really make sure you're looking at the correct side.
I enjoyed the video. You should do a video first hand, adjusting the dampening in a canyon. Would be cool to see you explain how different dampening affects how the car drives.
Brendon, you're right about the spring rate staying constant (Hooks Law) 8¬D . Greg probably meant that more force is initially needed to compress the spring once a pre-load is added to the spring 'as if' the spring rate had been increased (even though it hasn't). It just means that more force through the suspension is needed to get the same amount of compression making the car 'feel' stiffer. Still a great video though.
Hey this is an informative, well-made video. However one correction - adjusting the spring preload does not change how stiff the spring is. The spring still has the same physical spring rate. The only thing that changing spring preload does (aside from changing ride height) is change the amount of load required before the spring starts to move. Since it's a linear rate spring, after that minimum load is reached (which it will be with the weight of the car on the spring), the spring behaves the same regardless of where the preload perch is located.
Yet another awesome video Greg! Thanks for taking the time to make this video, this will help a lot with my own coilover install. Good luck with the VVT project!
2:56 "The Christmas of Handling" =D Its already that time again? Seriously tho I'd be careful taking the coilovers in and out like that without removing the longbolt etc., might damage an adjuster D= I know I wouldn't be able to with the ones I'm running. Also, for anyone curious Powertrix coilovers are great! I ran them on my car for awhile and now my buddy is running them on his, fair price for a quality product!
I agree. Not only that, but the stock suspension can't come out that way. You can do the ball joint method to get enough suspension movement, but the stock shocks will still be difficult to pull out. Only reason I ever did ball joint method was I was running the mazda comp sway bar blocks, and the long bolt wouldn't line up with the through hole on them. Long bolt is by far the best.
dude thank you so much for your videos, I'm getting my miata tomorrow . I'm going full youtube, thanks to you I'm so educated when it comes to miatas! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK BROTHA! Thanks for the discount too
you sir just saved me hours of time, stupidly I did not know that you could adjust the ride height by rotating the whole coilover, Previous I had disconnected the bottom of the strut and rotated the cup.
One thing I found out recently when I had to adjust my springs on my coilovers is that you can take the top nut off without an impact. Most coilovers have a flat section on the threads on the top shaft where you can get a wrench on it so you can hold the main shaft in place while tightening the top nut. You can kinda see it in the video during the close ups
Hey! Your channel is almost at 50k subs :) I've been waiting for this since around 5k lol. Keep making the quality content. I know your channel has grown extremely slow, but your content is better than most. TJ Hunt, Adam LZ, Evan Shanks, etc., I pretty much hate all their channels. They don't even work on their own cars. Just disgraceful. Keep being yourself and enjoying making the videos! I love watching them. BTW, you're a big reason I got a miata back in September 2016. I'm almost 21. I have loved the miata and its been wonderful learning how to actually drive. Thanks for your content. You've indirectly had an influence that made an incredibly positive change in my life.
Excellent video as always. With the Miata na with stock shocks you have to take out that long bolt as well or there’s no way the Stocks shocks are coming out no matter how hard you step down on the rotor
Greg, I feel deceived because removing the stock shocks with lowering springs was pretty much impossible to remove unless I Jerry rigged some zip ties to the spring to keep it a bit compressed and the struggle was real 😭 Anyways the video did help 👍
Good video as usual. I appreciate that you don't cuss in your vids. I can watch your stuff with my younger kids and not have to worry about language. I've been known to drop an f-bomb, but not in front of the kids. Nice!
Well done video. Will have it on my “watch later” list for when it’s time to change mine. I have some Tein Street Basis on mine since 2010. I think it’s time to think about some new ones!!
Hey Greg, I saw you're running spring rates of 10k on front and 7k on back...what would you suggest for rates on a daily driver, non-tracked but still spirited driving?
Silly question...is the discount still valid or was that a limited time thing? I'm sorry if that's been answered I scrolled the comments and didn't find it.
Greg where do you go to get your alignment done? considering if you leave the height alone, you shouldn't need an alignment, but being that the coils are brand new and stiffer as you said, could it set some of the alignment off? im asking where as im a SD native
Hey Greg. When you demonstrated changing the ride height and threaded the lower cup all the way on I noticed that the lower eye (shock mounting point) rotated with the cup. Does that mean you have to uninstall/disconnect these coilovers in order to rotate the cup and change the ride height, or is there a way to adjust the ride height with them on the car? Keep up the great work! I really appreciate the time you take to make sure you are informing your audience as you are performing your mods.
No, once the coilover is installed the shock can spin independently of the cup/mount so you can adjust them while they are installed on the car. (You just need to have it up on stands to take the weight off the coil or it will be very hard to spin.)
how do you pick coilovers without driving on them? i have the stock sport suspension and i do love it but when i want something better how do i know whether i will like it or not? i dont have the money for trial and error
You can also change the springs by just unscrewing everything on the bottom. Leaving the top hat untouched. Just all depends how do you want to do it. And just as a note tightening the Spring preload does not change the spring rate. A lot of people mix that up. Again adjusting the preload does NOT change spring rate. Spring rate is set from what ever the spring manufacturer sets it at. Most coil overs have a preload adjustment spec. By adjusting the spring preload you are essentially adjusting how much sag the spring has initially.
Hi Greg, Excellent vid as always.... A quick question.... Can you tell me the advantage of adjustable rose jointed drop links, or sway bar links, as opposed to stock...? Cheers, Ollie.
Greg, at 5:04 when you put the nut back on and mentioned not touching the inside of the tube, isn't that a spot for a wrench on the right? The spot is on the far right between the threads and that cross-hatch design on the end.
Hey Greg, love your videos. Your content has been helping me out as I slowly build my Miata. Just had a quick question since I'm looking at upgrading my suspension: do you know how high can the Powertrix go? I'm currently sitting at 14.5" in the rear and roughly 12.5" in the front, but I don't want to drop the car too much as I'm worried my wheels (Kosei K4r, 15x8 with +35 offset with 205/50/15 tires) might rub. I'd like to avoid rolling the fenders as my paint is so shot in some spots I'm more than certain it'll crack on some of the fenders.
Hey greg, i am planning to install my tein flex z using your method, first because i think its faster than the long bolt method and second because i do not have a torque wrench and i dont want to mess up with suspension arms. My question, is do you think it'll be easier if i compress the stock spring in someway?
Have you ever had any experience with xidas? If so how do you feel these hold up considering the price of the powertrix after adding the swift springs are relatively close?
I do not have experience with the Xidas, but I have heard they work magic for Miatas. Would love to try a set out sometime, but I have been very happy with these.
How can you tell what spring poundage is, i have a Dutton melos kit car with Mazda mx5 mk1 rear end, fitted with spax coil overs, problem is i dont have any suspension, i can adjust how high the car sits from the tyre but high or low the top 3 coils of the spring collapse to each other, and the bottom 2 coils dont really give that much.
Alrighty Greg, I just pulled the trigger on the PowerTrix UL Coils, I opted for the 9k springs to start with and will look at changes when my build is done. I appreciate the CBC300 deal, it made the buy an easy one as I was just about to get the Flyin Miata track pack. The adjustable ride height is what sold me on this buy as well as the cool green color.... just won't do to have a car with power that can't keep the wheels on the ground. Did you replace your shock bushings upper and lower when you installed the PT coils? Oh do you recommend the rear adjustable end links? It looks like you have them installed.
Are you asking about the bushings in the top hats? Th coilovers come with brand new top hats so there's no need to replace anything. You'll love the coils. I have the adjustable front end links so I can run the NB front sway bar on my NA chassis, and I decided to add the rear links to match.
I was asking about both I didn't realize the about the tops, are the bottoms fresh as well? The other item the rear links, do they make any noticeable diff? I didn't opt for rear links as of yet but may do so when I replace the rear end with the LSD.I have 949 racing end links for the fronts which I will do with the CO install.
Hello greg, I know this video is old but I just started following your channel and have a question. I have a 1990 mx5 miata 1.6 that is my daily driver. I don't have any mods, it's all stock. I was seriously considering getting the SS coilovers with the swift springs but I had to stop my self because of the hefty price tag. Do the swift springs really make a difference? I don't drag race or anything, I only use my car to get to school and work. Although I like to hit the pedal from time to time. I do plan to turbo my car some day, but that will be in the somewhat distant future. Are there any alternative coilovers that you would recommend for someone on a budget? Even the base SS coilovers with stock springs run you about $800 and unfortunately your promo code has expired. Also would like to thank you for your video on how to replace a clutch. Your video is the most informative and easy to follow on you tube. Thanks for all of your hard work!
Which exact ones would you recommend for 300zx? I still have stock suspension and want to lower it but like you, track, daily, and even sketchy curve roads is what I do?
DannySkateTV I've had all 3 models on my 300ZX's. Personally I think the "RT" (middle) model is the best for the money. It has all the performance features of the Ultralite with the exception of the aluminum body.
It does not have an end date at this time. They are not proprietary, one advantage up ordering them with the Swifts is it's offered as an upgrade so it's cheaper than buying the springs outright later.
Yea i learned something... I learned that i can't afford any coilovers that are actually worth switching to. What's the best way to lower my car but not sacrifice to much ride quality...because honestly the 2003 mx5 i have (stock suspension) seems to be pretty Damn good. But i am trying to cure my "mexi poke" and gap before winter ends. 16x8 +0... I was thinking lowering springs. Minor camber and maybe a little fender roll of necessary...
+Alexander Moore Yes I'm running Swifts. For the average user, it's probably not worth the upcharge. For someone that's regularly doing aggressive driving and track events, adjusting their suspension, I recommend them.
just so you know theres a hex on the shaft of the piston on the shock that can be held with a wrench and still use another wrench to tighten it without an impact
cooljoe226 Those are Powertrix as well, I haven't had any problems with them. They are for a 300ZX so I had to add a couple washers for them to line up perfect. They have around 60,000 miles on them
You might be right, but I know a lot of respected guitar players out there that will play on whoever will give them guitars and keep them sponsored. I'm not even mad at him if that's the case. I would run whatever company believed in my projects if I were in his shoes.
I run Powertrix too as do many in the Z32 community and they will all speak highly of them. The owner Charles only makes products for a few platforms and they're made to his spec.
Disappointed you didn't show the long bolt method... while it does take longer, it makes pulling the strut much, much easier(especially the long stock struts). Plus it doesn't require as much standing on the rotor or yanking things around.
also, without removing any suspension bolt I HARDLY think you can get out the stock suspension, for sure not the one with slightly longer springs that came with the later NA models...
Alexander Moore if you'd like to see how we have a video on our channel on exactly how to do the longbolt method installing coilovers, these same Powertrix ones in fact! But it works for any coilovers/spring/shock assemblies etc.
For anyone watching this in 2022. I'm sure the poster has figured this out by now. But adding preload does not make your springs stiffer. (increase spring rate)
Anybody know how to fix a bouncy ride? I purchased brand new coilovers. I won't say the price or the name of them. But is it still possible to help me understand why it is so bouncy? It has adjustable dampening, although I will say that the compression and rebound still feels softer than my old strut even with the dampening set to it's highest setting. It feels somewhat more bouncy when I set it to the lowest setting. The springs that I have on it are Front: 392lbs/in (7kgf/mm) || REAR: 336lbs/in (6kgf/mm). I was thinking maybe the camber gain from lowering the car was the culprit, but technically a good miata track alignment requires -0.5* front of camber and -1.5* rear.. (albeit with a stronger spring rate), so that can't be the reason why it's so bouncy. Any suggestions or insights is greatly appreciated
New to RWD cars here... this will be my first rear wheel drive Car except I will be buying NOT a NA or NB but a NC Miata (third generation) I was wondering I love these coilovers and have spend a few weeks researching different coilovers but I would like your recomendation on coilovers you would pick if you had a NC miata that will last just as long as these
