Maytag Maxima Error Codes E02 F08 Fix Repair (mhw6000xw) 

Thank you for posting. I diagnosed this and the symptoms matched, ordered part on Amazon, had it within 24 hours and replaced, $58 and done. I’m sure I would have had to pay a repair tech $250 for assessment and at least a week delay. All good. Thanks again.

Great video, and a big help. My 6 year old Maxima - apparently identical to the one on the video - seems to have a more complex problem, but perhaps my troubleshooting observations will be helpful to others. My washer started having intermittent E02 F08 errors about a month ago. Then they started happening all the time. No more restarts as a workaround. The water was flowing on cue into the drum at the right times, but it would abort with the error during the rinse cycle. I found this video, and pulled the top off the washer. I found that the dispenser motor was indeed cycling constantly. It never stopped at any setting, but rotated continuously, clicking loudly between them. Now here’s the thing: I’m quite sure it has ALWAYS done this, since the day we bought it in 2011. I’ve never had the top off before to look at it, but it has always clicked loudly and continuously during the entire wash cycle, and it has always worked. My wife confirms this. Hmm. I removed the part, and found no signs whatsoever of corrosion. Clean and dry. I figured some control circuitry inside must be bad. Right idea, but there is nothing solid-state inside. You can pop the back of the plastic case right off, exposing the gear head, and the primitive timing/feedback mechanism is obvious. A spring-loaded plastic arm rests on an eccentric cam molded into the secondary gear (the colored plastic gear that is connected to the output shaft). When one of the wide parts of the cam (there are several) rotates around, it pushes the spring arm up, which briefly depresses a normally open microswitch mounted to the case. I’d post a picture if I could, and you’d see how simple it is. This momentary switch shorts the two contacts that go to the upper electrical connector (the bottom one is line voltage to the motor), and sends a signal back to the control unit that the motor has advanced. Not a lot to fail there except the motor itself and the switch. My motor was obviously fine, but the switch was toast. It had no rebound left, and a meter showed that it wasn’t closing at all. I was pretty annoyed that a flimsy 5 cent switch was going to cost me $60, especially since replacing it would be a two minute solder job if you could source the switch. I even started digging in my electronics boneyard for something that might work before my wife intervened, and I just ordered the part. The current part number by the way is WPW10352973. This is different from my original part number, but it is identical, right down to the crappy little switch. So here’s the plot thickening bit. I installed the new part, and now my washer works again. But that motor never stops. It just keeps on turning and clicking through the entire cycle, same as it always has. Everything works, no errors, the clothes come out clean. But I don’t think this is quite right. I suspect now that perhaps that little switch failed because it was being actuated far more frequently than it was designed to. Perhaps I’ll do some more troubleshooting, but my wife is telling me to put the damn top back on the washer before I break something else. If anybody has an idea, I’d love to hear it.

The directions are spot on, great video. I followed this and bought the part for about 35 USD and replaced the soap dispenser motor. I would say that I probably saved myself maybe 150 USD if I had called the repair man. Machine is working like new!! I subscribed!!

I apologize for the length of this post but I wanted to provide some additional experience on having this issue. Obviously, disconnect the washer from the wall power before opening the unit. And as you read through what I did to resolve this issue, make sure you do not mess up any mechanical/plumbing elements of the washing machine (e.g. dont break the whole machine). After running through 4 different dispenser motors, I think I have read this thread enough times to finally root cause the issue. Symptom: E02 F08 Indicates problem with the dispenser motor. I finally put a few things together between the time 3 and four. Occasionally there would be water under the washer from "somewhere" and it wasn't the drain or the inlet water supply (kept me guessing for some time about that one). The water was simply another symptom of the issue... What I kept noticing is that there was lots of corrosion on the dispenser motor contacts that touch the printed circuit board (PCB) on the motor assembly (hint: need to disassemble the motor assembly to see the PCB; 4 little plastic pins you just pop up and pull the top of the assembly off to reveal the gears). Each time I tried cleaning the corrosion from the dispenser motor assembly PCB and the contacts on the wiring harness but eventually I would get the error code after a few loads or a few weeks. So, each time, it was off to buy a new dispenser motor and everything would work for another 5-6 months without issue. If you are like me, and you have the reoccurring symptom of E02 F08 error, then here is the root cause: Root Cause: A failed seal on the vent hose assembly. Basically the top hose on the vent hose assembly keeps popping off of the drum during normal use or heavy loads. Why does it pop off ? Well, there is a piece of plastic that sits inside the top of the drum that the vent assembly hose connects too. This small plastic piece can be turned left/right to remove it from the drum head. Under that piece of plastic is a small foam pad to seal the vent hose assembly from water leaking inside the washing machine. That small foam pad breaks down/corrodes over time and the seal on that small piece of plastic keeps getting worse until the vent hose whole assembly just disconnects from the top of the drum during normal operation of the washer. And, when this happens, soiled laundry water (I don't know how much, but enough) gets onto the inside of the washer. It gets onto the dispenser motor assembly arm and onto the contacts. Eventually enough soiled water builds up and the contacts have too much resistance and the dispenser motor cannot be activated by the control board. Then you get the error E02 F08. In summary, the water coming from the vent hose assembly is the root cause of the corrosion. Water leaks from the top of the drum and is eventually getting onto the dispenser motor assembly contacts and causing the corrosion. Once the corrosion builds up too much, the signal from the dispenser motor doesn't get back to the controller board and then you get the error. You might also see that the motor assembly gear arm on top of the unit (the one with positions 1, 2, 3, 4) seize up and cause the error. The arm seizes after lots of use because the water is soiled with laundry detergent/softener from inside the drum and builds up on the arm until it wont move. Here is how I fixed mine: 1. Fix the cause of the water inside the washer that results in the corrosion: One option is get a new vent hose assembly. If you go this route, you can get this part w10568614 and install it with some good silicon sealant. If possible, salvage the old part and make sure you install the drum vent hose assembly with some good silicon sealant. I salvaged mine. I removed the vent hose assembly, disconnected the hose from the small plastic piece that locks into the top of the drum. Instead of finding another foam seal for the vent hose assembly, I scrapped off the remaining pieces of the foam seal, rubbed it down with sandpaper and removed any extra plastic bits hanging and then used Gorilla Glue to secure the plastic piece onto the top of the drum. Another option is to use a silicon sealant instead of glue but I didn't want to leave any margin for error. Once that piece is secured (let it dry), I put silicon sealant between the hose and small plastic piece, and installed the vent hose assembly with the spring loaded O rings. Guess what, no more water on the floor from time to time, and no more water inside the washer! 2. Clean the Motor dispenser connections (or buy a new one and start fresh from scratch; same PN in the video W10352973). I cleaned all the printed circuit board corrosion with rubbing alcohol and 220 grit sand paper. Then I cleaned the upper wiring harness connector (it has 3 pins) with rubbing alcohol, 220 grit paper, and a small flathead screwdriver. Make sure you see the metal on the pins inside the wiring harness so you get good electrical contact with the PCB. Then I cleaned the lower wiring harness connector (it has 2 pins) with rubbing alcohol, 220 grit paper, and a small flathead screwdriver. Make sure you see the metal on the pins inside the wiring harness so you get good electrical contact with the PCB. I installed the motor dispenser assembly and reconnected the 3 pin wiring harness (top) and the 2 pin wiring harness (bottom). 3. Make sure this doesn't happen again: As an extra precaution I decided to put some plastic wrap over the wiring harness connector and dispenser motor assembly. I simply used a few dabs of silicon sealant on the motor assembly to secure the plastic wrap to the motor assembly. Then I draped the plastic wrap over the top part of the PCB/wiring harness connections and used a small tie wrap ton hold the plastic warp onto the wiring harness wires. The goal is to keep any soiled water that may reoccur from getting onto the PCB/wiring harness connections. NOTE: If you do this last step, make sure the dispenser motor assembly arm (the one that moves into positions 1, 2, 3, 4, etc.) can freely move and doesn't get obstructed by the plastic wrap. Now, go do some laundry!

The code E02 F08 has been popping up on my Maytag Maxima after doing a single load of laundry and then after a day or so disappears only to return after running aother single load. I have had the dispenser motor repaired twice for a great deal of money and was becoming disillusioned with my washer. Thank you for the excellent instructions. After following your step by step evaluation, the wired connectors were found to have some moist debris which was easily cleaned with an alcohol wipe. The moisture, I suspect, came from the venting hose that had come loose from the drum casement. I am running a second consecutive load of laundry and it appears to be working well.

My Maytag Maxima MHW6000XR1 started to throw out these 2 error codes as well. Sporadically at first and then after stopping the machine and starting it again, after month or so, it just gave up. I found this GREAT VIDEO and am so happy I did. Followed it precisely and true to your instructions, the problem was fixed! A few minutes and some sandpaper saved me hundreds of dollars (no doubt!) Can't thank you enough!!! But.......if one day the dispenser motor does need to be replaced, I won't freak out. Thanks for saving me some gray hairs ;)

I changed the dispenser actuator and still had the error so I checked the terminals as you suggested and, sure enough, corrosion. A little sandpaper and about forty seconds of effort and the thing runs like brand new. Thank you tons for your video. I guess I have my old actuator for backup now...hope I never need it, though!

Thank you for this video! I actually took my actuator off and took it apart and cleaned the connections inside of it. And now it works. It did take a lot of cleaning, too.

This has made fixing my washing machine seem easy. I even needed to know the type of tool to use so thank you so much!

We have this exact washer with the two error codes. Our appliance repairman could not figure out the problem with our Maytag. I googled and found this youtube video. I showed it to my repairman and he within the hour he had bought the part ($32.00) and had our washer running again. THANKS so much for this.

OH MY GOD THESE VIDEOS NEVER WORK BUT IT DID! Thank you!!

My Whirlpool Duet Washer has exact same internals. My problem was inside that white plastic box above that motor. It contains 2 white plastic gears and a blue gear-cam combination. That cam pushes on a spring-loaded lever arm which is suppose to push a small button at certain positions. Anyway, thanks for the video, it lead me in the right direction.

Thanks a lot! This worked for me. I cleaned those two connectors as best I could and it started running again.

Thanks for the tips! Mine threw that code & it was corroded. Also found out the top vent tube off of the main drum, had come undone, which would allow for moisture & rapid corrosion in the area. God bless you & yours! Shalom

I used this video to fix my machine, but then a few months later had the same problem. I noticed that a black tube on top of the washer had popped off, and water must have been spraying out during the spin cycle - saturating the switch, which caused the failure on my machine. Thinking back, I think I popped that hose back on before but did not think that it was related to the problem, but now I am quite sure that if the hose is off - the connectors get wet, short out the switch, and then you either wait for it to dry or clean the contacts, which kind of explains why it sometimes works. Something to consider.

Thank you! Ours had a crudded linkage and corroded connection. Cleaned it all up and the washer is up and running.

Awesome video! Fixed my washer. Thanks :)

Worked like a charm! Sandpaper on the contact fixed it right up! Thanks so much!

I had the same codes pop up, after 5 minutes of washing would throw out codes E01 and F08, sometimes would run fine without errors. I checked dispenser motor and was fine, drain line was clear, pump trap was clear, water pressure into washer was good. After more trials noticed error only came on when I set for hot water and steam, If I ran with only cold water I did not get any errors. Replaced the hot water inlet valve and is now running great with no errors.

Awesoe fix. Worked. Part was $70.

Thank you! Your video helped me fix my washer!

Worked perfectly! Tried it and it worked the 1st time! Thanks :)

The part number is for Maytag W10163975 and for whirlpool is W10352973. It is the same part but when I was looking for it under Maytag number I could not find it. Hope it helps even more. thanks ninjas

Yup ! Corrosion was the culprit, thanks :) all sanded and makes connections once again.

Thanks, worked for my washer

Can you tell me how to fix the arm on the dispenser motor? Where the blue button is on top, the arm came off.

I'm getting codes F01 E02 and F06. In doing all the steps you gave I think I need to replace dispenser unit also. How do I order this part?

Maytag Maxima Error Codes F06 E02 (mhw6000xw2). My Maytag Maxima washing machine won't shut off when I press the power button, and have to unplug it to shut it off. Every time I turn it on, the door won't unlock. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

Thanks alot!!!! ( greetings from Mexico

My washer dacite to stop working, they are only 5 yrs old, what you think could be wrong with it!

I need help with this. I tried putting the detergent dispenser in the washer and it got stuck, When I tried to pull it out, the handle broke from the actual dispenser. Now it's stuck in there and I've tried everything I can to get it out. Please help! it's the same model.

What is a. F 30 code I can't seem to find out on anything I looked up? Thank u for your help

Do you know how to get to the drain pump on this model?

Replaced the motor - and still have the code!

Mine is not throwing an error code, but the bleach dispenser fills up with water and doesn't dispense, erratically, sometimes it does. Usually after the load you open the soap dispenser and the bleach dispenser is full of water to the top and bleach. Once recently the fabric softener didn't dispense. The soap always does. Thoughts?

Great video, thanks but its not wise to use a screw driver or sand paper on those small contacts; use electrical contact spray cleaner

Hey where did you get the dispensor motor, i have been having this problem once a week, i cleaned the wires at the beggining and it worked but each time os getting harder, i guess i have to change, but where you get it?

After I did the cleaning, sand paper, it still doesn’t work, but now no water come out at all?????

Is water supposed to flow during the initial 8 minutes from that black hose in back? I ran it with the cover off and the arm actuates back and forth like I believe it is supposed to, then I get E02 F08 and a little sing song noise. I repeated this with that hose disconnected and into a cup and no water was coming out for the first few minutes. If no water is coming out, do i need to replace that water inlet valve where the hoses are connected or do I need to replace the motherboard (control unit) or is there a test so I know what to replace?

I replaced the dispenser motor but the dail keeps just going around any other suggestions im stump

F02 Whirlpool -Aquastop

Just to let you guys know, about a month later it threw the code again. I had to clean corrosion off of the ends that connect to the little motor. I took a small piece of sand paper and ran it gently inside the plug and it fixed it. I am trying to figure out how moisture is getting to that part and causing corrosion. I will think about a way to seal it or enclose it.

Happy, happy. Thanks.

Door will not open after cycle

e2 05 displaying

Maytag E2 error code

Pisses me off that soon we will need a scanner to fix these damn POS machines. Error codes. Like seriously!!! Im a mechanic and find this to be straight from auto tech diagnostics with a OBD11 reader

I've had to replace this stupid motor 3 times already. Two plugs go into the back of the motor assembly: one is 120VAC for the motor (be careful). The other is the sensor input. Anyone know how to hack / bypass? Arduino pic chip? or maybe a simple resistor? I never use this tray anyway. Tide pods work great (caution, do not eat them - millennials tend to mistake these for food).

I'm getting f6 and e1

Ttttttttttthhhhhhhhhhaaaaaanannnnnnnkkkkkkk u