Thank you. Your part 1 and part 2 video has helped me and my dad so much with our mazda 626. Had it in service for about 4 weeks now since it gave out and found out the timing belt broke. I would recommend thus video to anyone with timing belt issues on a 626
Looks like a mixture of stop leak combined with rust.The A/C belt on mazdas commonly loosen up and squeak during start up. Im diggin the rope trick cool lol. Great Job and explanation of the process DJDevon.
Thanks for the compliments. Have a long course of more flushing to do, not looking forward to doing that again. I'll make sure to tighten down that A/C belt better during install. Was hoping part of the squealing was due to the belts contacting the timing cover. Hopefully when everything goes back together she'll be good to go with no squealing and no leaks.
Very well made and entertaining video! Nice job on the rope in the cylinder trick and especially for mentioning to be on the power stroke- you had me worried to death for a second there that you weren't going to mention to make sure you aren't on TDC exhaust stroke!! Very well done.
I highly respect your opinion. Your compliments mean quite a lot to me. Thank you. If anyone out there hasn't heard of Schrodingers Box go check out his channel. He has an excellent DIY automotive channel.
Hey there, just came across this video. Very well done! I just did a transmission 2-4 band, timing belt and pump on my 2001 1.6 Protege. Fun stuff lol. I haven't read all of the comments so I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it or if you know by now seeing as this was done so long ago but you mentioned you used CLR to flush the engine. You can cause internal engine damage because you never use CLR on aluminum or copper both of which are in the cooling system. It can't even be used on some makes of coffee machines and its only supposed to sit on surfaces, diluted for no more than a couple of minutes. We actually never use it in the coffee repair field. Possibly that's what was causing the rusty crap in the coolant because you may not have flushed it out 100%. I'd always stick to chemicals made specifically for automotive use.
I love the detail of your work & some of the technique(s) used, I have used some methods similar to yours. I also have done this type of work many times and as a refresher course, I return to watch some videos on HOW TO just like this one. Thanks for the video & hope you continue to offer us more. Thank You
Great vids! Two tricks I learned which you might find useful next time. I used thick quick ties, two straight across and two in a X crisscrossed to hold the camshafts in position while the belt was off. The other trick is to take the PS / A/C belt, put it around the the crank pulley and A/C pulley, then use a good quality vise grip to clamp the belt next to the crank pulley and that holds enough to both loosen and tighten the crank pulley bolt. You can see a pick here: mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/37168/7132
Man great job and also trying to film it so well. It's amazing how much of a pain in the ass these cars and engines are compared to working on my old school 350 and 454 Chevy V8s. A+ for video, skills and effort brother.
I did this exact same thing on my mx6. Something that i found that was easier than putting rope into the cylinder to get the crankshaft pully off. I just put a socket with a breaker bar on the crank shaft and made sure it was long enough to hit the ground, then with your fuel pump relay still out, you just crank the engine for a split second and let the starter do the work.
I forgot to cover that. I'm not a fan of it. I have seen damage incurred to the starter and crankshaft pulley. In one case the car spun the breaker bar, the car came off the jack stands, and fell on the ground. I've also seen the breaker bar spin around and damage a wheel well. Overall it can be wrought with potential dangers. Rope takes a little more time but it's a much safer option. This will also work for a car that is not running. Using rope covers every potential scenario and safely. It was my 2nd time removing a harmonic balancer. The first time I did use the starter and I didn't like it at all. I'll be going with rope from now on.
Very informative video DJ and you're a funny guy. Since you seem to do quality work, you've got my sub. One tip for you that I've used when camshaft sprockets are close together, is to use a pair of vise grips to hold the sprockets in place. Looking forward to the follow-up video.
Documenting projects is a labor of love. Thank you for the compliment. Haven't even started on the re-install yet. Will probably be at least a couple more days if not a week. There was more than 8 hours of footage edited for this video. Took me 10 hours just to edit the video.
DJ you mentioned possibly putting the "starship" on engine side of wheel well. Not recommended, I pulled mine the other day with it on inside and using short bots. There is very little room between the Crank pulley and inside wall. I had to stop after maybe half way as my "starship" was butt up to inside fender. Fortunately I could easily wiggle it off from there and didn't need to re-continue with bolts outside. For anyone trying this check the gap between pulley and inside wall so you dont bend the wheel well or damage crank shaft by not realizing its jammed on wheel well. I have a Harbor freight kit, looks same, mine has 12 -16 different bolt size/ lengths. 2001 626 2.0 Cheers
Did you found out whats causing the mud in the cooling system ??? It cant be internal rust in one of the hoses, because a rust that big would leave a hole the size of Hiroshima. If it was engine oil, or transmission oil you would ve noticed by now changes in the car... I have the same issue in my 2.0 ford probe...and i really cant find any info related to this problem even on other engines... Last time flushed my system, and removed the reservoir to clean it, it looked like a cat took a big crap inside... I wish i could help, but its one of those things you cant find any info about it... hope you see my comment in 2020 iam breaking the record 6 years late, watching your videos gave me courage to finally start fixing my car, and be successful, you do a great job, i have met some of the wrost mechanics in my life they lie, dont read the manual, treat other people has if they were idiots ... Noone deserves to go trow situations like that in their lives, and lose so much money. iam sure your videos have saved drivers their wallets and their cars.
I was wondering what year and size engine of that Mazda is. I got a coolant leak from below the timing belt cover. Your engine design looks different from mine.
I know its a bit late but imo a good idea would be to take off the passenger side motor mount bracket and the mount. I know in the PGT, removing the bracket makes taking the water pump and idler pulleys and crap easier and I'm willing to bet the same is true for the FS.
njintau FSD it's never too late to post an opinion or advice. I didn't want to do that because I was afraid of getting my hand pinched if the oil pan failed to hold the weight. I've seen them implode and yes the engine will drop. I'm just overly cautious perhaps but I still have both hands because of it. :)
"That hoarding has come to pay for itself." As soon as I heard that I thought, "That's me!" My biggest fear is throwing something away that I was sure I'll never use and then realizing I could've used it a day or a week later. I'm going to remember your words as my reward.
33:00 Thank you :) Those kind of little keys you can't usually buy in stores. They're specifically made to give away as a free tool with furniture. When you don't have much room to work with between an engine and the chassis they're frickin awesome!
They're kind of an odd size too. I wrenched for better part of 20 years.I used to buy any tool that would make my jobs easier. I had 9-10 ASE's. Did mostly emissions, tune-up, ECM stuff for a nationally known dept. store . No, the one that went under long ago. After I left there I didn't more of a variety of stuff. I've down some timing belts, 8-12 maybe. My son has a 2001 626 and it's got 107K on it. It's got maybe a alt. belt squeal but I haven't looked at it yet. This looks fairly involved but how hard it will be for me I don't know. Don't wrench much anymore but still got all the wobbly sockets, air tools. That bracket you said wasn't needed, think for a second. How many of those bracket did they make? Millions, right? Even at a 5 cents a piece that's a lot of money for a huge corp. to piss away for something that does nothing. Got to be a reason. It might be a dumb one but it is one. Think I've seen that H tool or similar in a timing set for another engine I did a belt on. Lining it up and KNOWING what you're looking at for BEFORE disassembly is VERY IMP. Marks are different, 1 dot 2 dots, holes, notches, pointers, letters, line up with this or that. Off a hair it don't run right.
The alt is a fairly simple job. It must be taken out from the bottom on the 98-02 model. The 93-95 model it can be taken out from the top but the 98-02 models have the receiver/dryer in the way and must be dropped out the bottom. You might have to fight the exhaust pipe to get it out but it's doable. Trust me I know the 626 better than 99% of people out there and the bracket on top of the alt for the I4 manual does NOT serve a purpose. ;) Yes it was a waste of money to produce, an oversight.
That would put unnecessary stress on the timing belt. In my case where the timing belt is already ridiculously tight that's not a good thing to do in my opinion.
zeke112964 They're made of metal vs a rubber belt. They get more stress from normal operation than that. I appreciate the input really I do but we'll just agree to disagree here. :)
Leisurely over the weekend. Maybe 24 hours in total but I was being very leisurely with it. If you really wanted to do it faster in an afternoon you could. I work at my own pace in my garage. Results may vary. :)
any idea as to why the timing belt keeps slipping towards the motor. even after 2 new cams and pulleys and belt..... any help would be appreciated> 2.5l v 6 ford telstar.
No idea sorry. My first inclination would be unevenly worn cam gears but since you've replaced them that's obviously not it. Only other thing i can think of is a bad harmonic balancer. I would be very interested to hear what the answer is. Please let me know when you figure it out.
will do thanks bud. we have done bearings in the tensioners so far and it seems ok for now. havent tested it properly but will keep you updated as to the progress
Good idea and I did actually try that years ago. Magnet test was inconclusive even after allowing it to dry for a couple days. The coolant makes everything stick together. Acts more like dried clay. Results were inconclusive in my case.
Not to my knowledge. I'm 99% certain it's rust. I've done some research and there are tons of images online that look exactly like mine from rust intrusion.
Thanks DJ, I've owned my 626 for 16 years. Such a great car. However today it started leaking from the water pump area I think?? Have you come across this? Also the fan keeps running a lot so something is hot. I can hear fizzing like there's heat somewhere but temp gauge is normal. Maybe the thermostat has died? I'm way over due for cambelt so may be time to do the whole shebang with your helpful video.
If you are losing coolant then the engine should start to overheat. Perhaps the reason it's not doing so right now is because we are in the middle of winter. Expect it to overheat as we get into spring/summer. Best to take care of it now before it does overheat. Just make sure it is actually a leaking water pump seal first. Yes I highly recommend replacing the timing belt and water pump at the same time..
That's the crazy thing, I'm losing very little coolant and I'm in New Zealand - mid summer! I'm wondering if the thermostat is likely to seize up if it's in daily use.
John Wallace Sorry I never saw your reply. No it's not normal on these vehicles for the thermostat to seize. It can happen sure but I would consider it unlikely if your cooling system is working normally. Since yours isn't then of course you have to start taking things apart and inspecting them. There are factory procedures to test the thermostat in the 626 readily available online at PMX626.info. Leaking water pump seal seems likely in your case.
First off, great video. Very informative an well done. This will definitely help me out in the future. I have a 1995 Mazda MX-6 and it makes that same screeching sound when you turn it on. You mentioned it was a pulley issue. Which pulley is it and how do you diagnose it? Thanks again!
+joshtheperuvian Remove the accessory belts and inspect the pulleys by hand. Find the one that wobbles or squeaks and there's your culprit. Improperly tensioned belts can make the same squeal. I know my belts are tensioned to spec and I show how to do that in this video series which is why it has to be a pulley issue. Try checking the tension on your belts first. Use the method I show or purchase a belt deflection measuring tool.
That belt squeal is one of the most frustrating things I have experienced on any car. I'm not a newb and used to work on cars professionally. My sons 97 626. I tired tons of different tensions. Then someone told my son that we need to get OEM belts from Mazda. From what I can tell the pulleys look fine. The damn thing is still squealing. Good that it only squeals about 30 seconds after startup then stops. I gave up on the thing. One other comment...I feel so bad for you guys who do this stuff without the proper tools. When I seen you use a wrench on the power steering tension bolt I said oh noooooo!
Deucealive75 Try one belt at a time? If it squeals with both belts one at a time then perhaps it's timing belt related like an idler pulley. Idlers usually won't squeal that loud, the bearings aren't big enough, bearings for an alternator or ps pump though will wake the dead. Yeah I'd rather not use a wrench on the tensioner bolts hehe gotta do what ya gotta do. I have offset wrenches now. :)
I think at one point we did the 1 belt at a time thing. I may be getting back to that issue soon because the car is down right now with a no start condition. My son said it stalled while he was driving, wouldn't restart, and had it towed home. Ended up with a P0340 code. The only thing I have done is verify it is getting fuel and checked to make sure the timing is not off using TDC and rotor position on the distributor. Sounds strange while cranking. Next step is to look at the crank pos sensor I guess. Also I wanted to mention...that lower alternator pivot bolt I do from up top. Small hands, skinny arms, and tool setup helps me with that.
Deucealive75 Hmmm the CKP sensor code depends on your year, engine, and trans. If you could provide those I might be able to shed some light on your no-start. Generally it's either jumped time, faulty crank sensor, or faulty distributor/coil pack. On the 93-97 I4 the CKP is built into the distributor. On the 98-02 the CKP is next to the crankshaft pulley. Sometimes they get grimed over to the point they fail to read the magnetic pulses on the 98-02 and simply need to be cleaned! However I don't want to give you false hope that it's going to be that simple because generally any type of ignition issue will set a CKP code for ignition failure. Good job on inspecting the fuel pump! That's one major component tested and only 2 more to go! If you can make a video of the cranking sound I might be able to help just from listening to the engine attempt to turn over. I know these engines by heart. :)
За счет чего Вольво, надежнее, чем Мазда? Как это сравнивают надежность профессионалы? По каким критериям лучше проводить сравнение? С чего лучше начать? Подскажите, пожалуйста, кто знает.
I think Volvo has Mazda beat in terms of endurance but it all depends in how well you maintain it over the life of the vehicle. Mazda is pretty good though.
Hello, I’ve been watching and learning a lot from your Mazda videos. Thank you. I have a 2001 Mazda 626 2.0 lx. I have a misfire problem code p0303. I replaced all of the basics that may cause this misfire. Plugs, wires, coil, mas, fuel pressure reg, replaced fuel injectors and fuel filter. Performed a wet and dry compression test 180psi on all 4. Did the combustion leak test kit and passed. I did the smoke test for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Cleaned EGR and IAC. It only misfires at cold start then throws the code always cylinder 3 misfire, once it warms up it run just fine. I’m running out of options here and was hoping for your advice on what may be another possibility. Thanks again.
You've checked air, compression, and spark that only really leaves one path to follow. Fuel pressure test and fuel injector test. Test resistance of fuel injectors cold vs warm. A cylinder can misfire if it's not getting fuel due to a faulty injector. With all the data you've provided I'd look into a faulty injector or vacuum leak around the injector o-ring that you missed. Remember things expand when they warm up. It's all pure speculation and guessing from my end though don't take my word for it, test, test, and test some more.
I did a leak down test on the fuel injectors and found “#3” was leaking. I then replaced all 4 and performed the test again. Leaking stopped so I was almost certain I found the problem. But only a couple days later I got the code p0303 again. Fuel pressure test I did not do yet so that will be next. The car has 164k miles on it and was wondering if a failing timing chain can affect only 1 cylinder repeatedly?
That orange crap inside your cooling system looks like a cooling system sealer. It's possible that somebody who owned your car in the past, used this type of sealer which got trapped inside the cooling passages, the heater core, the radiator and the like. You need to do thorough coolant flush and maybe even replace your radiators.
I've owned my 626 for 17 years. I did some research. It's definitely just rust. I must have something rusting internally either in a pipe or a hose or heater core. I just replaced the radiator not even a year ago.
I meant to say does that have transmission cooler that connected to radiator I had same problem on eagle and it was mix trans fluid with antifreeze which turning it to mud looking substance
It was originally an automatic with a transmission cooler sharing the radiator as you had. It's possible some of it got into the cooling system but I've flushed the entire cooling system multiple times since then. Installed a new radiator when I swapped to a manual transmission a few years prior to this video. My best guess at this point is an internally rusting 20 year old heater core.
DJDevon3 when transmission fluid mix with antifreeze turns to sludge looking stuff I would run radiator flush through it and then steam clean radiator also if that radiator had oil cooler u will get same affect it might not leaking back into the motor but oil cooler could be leaking into radiator which give that sludge material
then u have flushed it multiple times then if u have a oil cooler on that u need check it for cracks because it is leaking they make a die that put in the oil and use alternate light source then run it through the system drain coolant and use the light source to check it and see since it has a transmission cooler u can do same thing use dye and run the dye through
I no longer have a trans cooler. The only thing going through my radiator is coolant in a new radiator where oil never went through the other half. I do not have an oil cooler as I do not have a turbo.
ILL Gotti Needed to replace my warped timing covers so that I could see the timing marks on the covers, the numbers were rubbed off from the belt cutting a groove in the cover. Figured it was a good time to redo the timing belt and water pump anyway as a target of opportunity.
***** If you are going this deep into the motor.. you figure this would be a good time to take the head off to fix a broken off exhaust stud? The bottom-left one too. the one under the power steering pump.. it seems like a shame to do all this work and not fix that.. (Mazdaspeed protege) Is there anything to be particularly cautious of with the head removal?
ILL Gotti It is a good time yes because a head removal requires the timing belt to be re-installed as part of that process anyway. I don't know if a head removal is required to fix broken exhaust manifold studs though. It depends on the severity of the break. Will certainly make it easier with the head off yeah.
***** Thanks.. I have no coolant in the car, so I can take out the radiator.. I think with the power steering pump (temp relocated) and radiator out, there should be enough room. I am gonna try to NOT remove the head..
Not the crankshaft seal but I did change the camshaft seals about 2 years earlier in the Head Reassembly Series (available as a playlist series on my channel).
hey i had oil everywhere in my distributor on my 96 protege. I cleaned it up and ordered a new o- ring for it. how can i get to the internal oil seal on the shaft of my distributor?
I have no idea. I've never taken apart a Protege distributor. Your distributor is slightly different than the 626/MX6 distributor of the same year. I don't even see an external oil seal available for it let alone an internal oil seal. At least Mazda parts diagrams only show the whole distributor and there are no repair procedures for distributors, the whole thing ends up getting replaced. If you figure it out let me know.
Saw the pictures. You might be able to replace that outer gasket with RTV instead. The only way that much oil should get in there is through the O-ring on the end. The Protege doesn't have a gear like the 626 does to my knowledge. Might be best asking someone over at ClubProtege.com, they should be able to give you better advice.
JonDerrick Cannon Register at ClubProtege.com and ask your question in the forum. They should be able to help you much better than I can. My knowledge about Protege specific components is very limited and the distributor is one of those components.
The 1993-2002 Mazda 626 no matter the engine size is NON-INTERFERENCE. Whatever source you're reading from that says it is an interference engine is wrong wrong wrong.
OK THANKS A LOT FOR CLARIFYING. So in case i use the rope trick to hold the crankshaft in place to undo the pulley there is no problem of bending valves because the engine is noninterference right?
yes i know but i went to 4 different mechanics and in my case the noise come in, when i turn on the ac and i turn my steering well but all of them are giving different diagnostic one told me is a ac compressor , the other water pump and the other told me is a crank shaft pulley and idk what to do ?
Juan Morales Sounds more like you have a problem with shady mechanics that like to pawn off wild guesses instead of doing real diagnostic work otherwise all of them would have reached the same conclusion. I feel for ya, that's a headache of a situation. It should take a mechanic about 10-15 mins to do a real diagnostic of that situation. If they try to tell you what's wrong without doing any work then they are guessing and you should find a different mechanic. You have to pay for a real diagnostic though. Recommend you take it to a dealership if possible.
to the dealership my old car they gonna lol about me but good suggestion but when i saw your video you started with the same problem with a noise and that are but you didn't say or described what was causing that noise ?
How much rope did you put in? And I have a 99 626 is that what ur working on? Would I be able to do exactly what u just did? And is there anyway a special tool could be used? Like a puller? Is there not enough tension to break it loose without the rope in there? Basically just tryna find other options and not tryna fuck Up the car 😂
You're right I should have mentioned that. I forget sometimes that not everyone watches every single one of my videos. I do go over that in a video dedicated to mixing coolant though. ;) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iRtJWtx23-c.html
I was really hoping that the water pump was the culprit. Reason for this job was simply to replace the warped timing covers which were cutting into my belts. If I was going to go through all of that might as well do the timing belt and water pump and hope the pump was rusting. It's not the source of my rust issue. Only piece in the entire cooling system that I have not intimately inspected is the heater core. Flushed every single hose, and pipe many times over and then replaced the radiator. It was fine for about 6 months. Rust still came back. :(
I repleaced the time belt, following tour vídeo, it was great, engine turn con without issues, however engine has lost its strength, is has no torque!!! What could had happen?
I wish your comments were more positive but we can't always get what we want. Your welcome for recording a very long technical procedure in my garage with a handheld camera.
***** Okay, good. I just wanted to let you know that your tutorial here was really educational. I had to compensate the darkness by turning up the brightness on my monitor almost all the way up. It worked somewhat. At least I was able to see a little better. I'm coming up on 60K on my 1997 Mazda 626 DX and want to see what I'm up against changing the timing belt, as well as the other two smaller belts. Your tutorial certainly has given me a heads up and I wanted to thank you for showing me how it's done. I, too, am a Mazda fan and I love my 626. The only thing bad on my car is the rust on the bottom inside front doors where that piece of molded metal hits the switch that turns off the interior lights. One side has completely rusted out and the other one may just last another year. Other than that, the body is in almost perfect shape. The interior needs work too like the headliner and the fabric around the inside door handles. I've had this car since brand new.
***** Finding a 626 that has fabric fully attached around the interior door handle is pretty rare. It's a huge common issue. For the door switch you'll probably need to visit a body shop that can weld in new metal. It MUST be metal contact because the switch uses the metal surrounding the switch as the ground. ;) I have a video that details how the switch works. Look for the video called Door Switch Diagnostics or something like that.
***** Okay, I will DJ. That's what I thought the only fix for the door switch would be. Luckily, the rust did not transfer to the outside of the door, just the inside. Thank you again for the tip and I'll check out that video you mentioned. ;-)
I havent done T-belt/wp yet but i dont understand y U needed puller & them wrenches on cams.?.? as reference I found this other vid which says nothing about that ...ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HBhNITlXZ6c.html he says u just take out the bolt...thats an auto mech too. shows it to be much easier somehow
Wobbling the pulley off is not a good thing, it can deform the metal keyway. He's a mechanic and has to do things the fastest way for the sake of time but in doing so can shorten the lifespan of components by being rough with them. I don't recommend doing it that way and it's not by the book like that for a reason. I'm a DIY enthusiast and can do things at my own leisure ensuring to do everything by the book. It is possible to lineup the cams and put the belt on without locking down the cams but trust me you don't want to do that. If you get them lined up incorrectly you will have to do it all over again... which is ironically shown in their video because he did get it wrong the first time doing it his way and not by the book. Save yourself time and effort and do it once the right way, the way I show. He works on a lot of different cars. I only work on the 626, so I am a specialist in that regard, I know all the right factory procedures and provide those procedures to all of you in video format. I'm the only one that shows just how much of a pain in the ass working with the belt actually is. In my opinion for a Mazda 626, everyone should be paying more attention to my video than the realfixesrealfast video. Not taking anything away from RealFixesRealFast. I am actually a big fan of that channel. Their 626 timing belt video was the only 626 timing belt video online for a long time. My video is much longer for a reason, it's a comprehensive timing belt video for the 626 which made their video obsolete. I don't want to say that but it's true. :/
thx not trying be difficult just doing my research b4 start project. I also was told itsa interference motor so Im relieved its really NOT! my 1st gen pgt is which was y had to replace head but thx for info! after watching ur vid Im in no hurry to start haha...research continues
@@DJDevon3 ...I've been rebuilding cars for over 50 years sonny....I'm 78 years old....my beef is....every time i pull up something thats half good they spoil it with their crap music or crap back ground noise.....or they babble in a language no one can understand.....or their cameras are so shaky and dark they should be banned.....this videos (thank god, got back to a good show once the crap music stopped. have a nice day
@@drscruggs9830 RU-vid has changed a lot in what used to be acceptable popular video styles back then. People have become more impatient now. I chalk that up to how fast information flows these days. Before RU-vid you had to learn how to do it all yourself without any kind of visual help. Some perspective helps with changing times.
