Mazda CX-5 Oil Change Full Guide (2017-2023) 

I have done dozens of oil changes over the years (that is putting it mildly), for myself and for many other people. I also own a 2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature (purchased new in 2019). I have changed the oil, myself, in the CX-5 many times now. I always use ramps. They are really convenient, and make changing the oil so much easier (and safer) than using a jack and jack stands. I actually had a friend that was killed when a jack stand broke, and he was crushed by the car, so be careful folks. I always warm up the vehicle before changing the oil, and also open the oil fill cap, to break the vacuum and make the oil drain quicker and more thoroughly. This really makes the oil drain better, and removes more crud out of the bottom of the oil pan. I use the original (Japanese made) Mazda oil filter (Part#: PY8W-14-302), which includes a new crush-washer in the box, so it is also convenient to change the washer every time. It is debatable whether the washer needs to be changed at every oil change, but Mazda recommends that you do so. The OEM Mazda oil filters, and the correct 67.5 mm fluted oil filter wrench, are available at any Mazda dealership. Just remember that there are 2 OEM Mazda oil filter part numbers for the CX-5's (and most other Mazda Vehicle's) 2.5 liter turbo and non-turbo engines, as the turbo engine oil filter has a backflow check valve built into it, in order to keep the turbocharger from starving for oil and burning up. Mazda recommends using their own Moly based synthetic oil in all of their vehicles (of course), and the other brand approved by Mazda, for all Mazda vehicles, is Castrol Edge full synthetic oil (which I use). A lot of mechanics also recommend filling the new oil filter with oil, before installing it, to prevent the engine from "dry-starting" the first time, after the oil change. However, that is also up for debate. Also, those little plastic rivets that hold the bottom shield on tend to break easily, if not removed correctly. However, you can purchase a box of different sized plastic rivets, and the correct removal tool, at Harbor Freight for about $10. Everyone complains about the plastic shield being in the way. However, the shield is more than just "cosmetic," and it serves 2 purposes. The shield is there to make the vehicle more aerodynamic, by allowing for smoother airflow under the vehicle. The shield also prevents rocks and road trash from kicking up and hitting the bottom of the engine and its components, therefore preventing damage to the engine. I have never "torqued" the oil drain plug bolt on any vehicle, even though it is recommended, and I have never had a leak. I just snug the bolt up with a socket wrench, until it feels tight, and then give it another quarter turn or so (just be careful not to overtighten the bolt). The same goes for the oil filter. Just snug it up hand-tight, and then give the filter another quarter turn with a filter wrench. Also, remember to lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil before installing it. This will keep the rubber gasket from binding on the metal filter housing, as the filter is tightening, preventing the filter from leaking. Also, make sure the vehicle is level when checking the oil, and never overfill the oil, as this is just as bad as running an engine with low or no oil. Overfilling the engine with oil will cause foaming, due to the crankshaft churning the oil. This will cause the oil to fill with air and make it ineffective for lubricating the engine. A visual inspection and test-run, after the oil change, is always a good idea, just to makes sure that there are no leaks, and you didn't forget to reinstall the oil drain plug (oops!). Overall, this is a good video for changing the oil on a Mazda CX-5. However, I just wanted to give some useful pointers to other Mazda CX-5 owners, so that they can keep their great Mazdas running in tip-top shape for many years to come. They are great vehicles!

I have changed oil in over 100 cars and trucks. I would like to shake the hand of the Mazda engineer that designed this. From the access panel to the vertical oil filter right next to the drain plug. It is beautifully simple and easy.

Loosen the oil filter by turning it COUNTER clockwise, not clockwise. Don't forget to check that the old filter gasket came off with the filter, and that the surface left is clean. Last, put some oil (don't really have to fill it) in the oil filter before installation.

With a filter mounted vertically like yours, it is always a good opportunity for me to pre-fill the filter. It takes less than a second to build oil pressure that way vs about 5 seconds otherwise.

Also when jacking up, always put your emergency hand brake on. If you dont, your back tires might roll back when jacking up.

8:30 use a cup over the old filter, after loosening , to catch the oil, works well.

Thanks for listing the socket sizes and torque specs. Super helpful :) If you use a small extension in the 17mm socket when you loosen it, you end up with cleaner hands. Opening the oil filler cap (but leaving it resting on top to prevent just getting in) allows the oil to drain faster and gets rid of that drip at the front. Personal preference - the K&N Hp1008 oil filter has a 1" nut on the end that makes getting the oil filter on and off super easy. I use the same tightening method as this video and being able to do the 3/4 turn with a ratchet is both easier to do and to see that turn radius. Both the K&N and Mobil1 filters meet and probably exceed manufacturers recommendation. Stop the mess on the floor - use a metal drip drain pan. They cost about $20 and are much easier to clean afterwards than your garage floor or the side of the road. Plus the less oil stains on the garage floor or road, the easier it is to spot if your car is leaking.

Well done. Thank you. Note that oil filter is REMOVED by screwing COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, as is standard with just about all threaded fittings. I believe your audio recording indicates to remove it CLOCK-WISE, which is NOT correct. I may have misheard you but played it twice. Thank you again.

Two things that I do...first, punch a hole in the filter with an ice pick, old phillips screwdriver, etc, to drain it before removal. Not as messy. Second, install a Fumoto F-106 drain valve. Very slick; makes draining your pan tool-less from then on. Despite what the Fumoto site suggests, the ADP-106 is not needed. There is adequate clearance for the valve. Just my two cents.

thank you for pointing out the front jacking point clearly.😊

I have a 22 cx5 and doing an oil change on these things is super easy. I use ramps and jack stands for a back up.

I use bare hands and stay clean. I reach under car, only need to jack a few inches on passenger side. 1) I Replaced drain plug with Fumoto valve. Easy to attach tube and drain oil into old Tide jug. No mess. 2) I use a gallon ziplok baggie up around filter, carefully turn, whole filter (with oil) stays inside baggie. 3) I Loosen filter with a three-finger filter wrench that tightens around filter as you ratchet. 4) Mobil 1 has great online rebates. 5) I change oil every 5,000 miles, not taking any chance on sludge buildup or gas dilution. 6) I use 0w20, as directed in owners manual. Factory filter, online. Save receipts and keep a log.

Jacks and jack stands make me nervous. I use solid oak ramps I made 30 years ago.

Thanks for posting this what to expect, how to video. It was very helpful. I'm as old as dirt and have done many oil changes on my own cars. I'm about to do my CX-5's first oil change. It does have the turbo engine so I bought a turbo specific oem filter, #1WPY-14-302 (filters are so small - lol) and will add full synthetic 5w-30. Besides oiling the rubber gasket, the vertical design of the filter location makes it easy to pour oil into the filter before installing. Can't hurt. I will also use the new crush washer for the drain plug. I would also recommend ramps and wheel chocks. Leave the jack stands for tire rotation or brake work. Good idea to leave the plastic off when inspecting leaks.

Be sure to check the oil after the car is off the jacks, so the car is level. Otherwise, you'll think you didn't add enough oil, and then you'll overfill it. You definitely don't want to overfill the oil. I did that mistake today, when I had the front tires sitting on 1 1/2" boards. I had to raise the vehicle again to remove a little oil. Just those boards knocked the oil reading off.

Great video; it's helped me immensely. Only thing to add: make absolutely certain that the old oil filter doesn't leave its rubber gasket stuck to the oil filter housing. It's unlikely to do so, but it's possible--and if it stays there and the new oil filter gets double-gasketed, it will leak. Catastrophically. That could easily destroy the engine. Also, Rainman Ray has a great argument against filling the oil filter prior to installation.

Some good comments here. Those plastic covers also prevent road salt from getting everywhere and eating the bolts.

Nice video. One important thing you that you missed was to replace the oil plug crush washer when doing an oil change. Aluminum and/or fiber crush washers are one-use-only and should never be reused. Copper crush washers, on the other hand, can be annealed by heating them to cherry red with a propane torch and reused several times. I hope this information is useful.👍🏻

Oil-filter installation instructions are literally on the new filter box, and usually on the filter itself.

Video is well done - nice work. Oil change is very well done - nice and clean without any oil mess.

Two quick things - for the torque wrench or any other non-ratcheting tool (breaker bar, etc), if you remove the socket and turn it 90* you can generally get what you need, as the socket is 6 sided and the square drive is, obviously, 4 sided. Your contact + half turn (ish) is correct for most vehicles, but the easiest way I've found to think about it is that you should be able to remove a filter by hand after 5-10k and it will be harder to remove than it is to tighten, so a bit more than "snug" is good enough. Too tight is more likely to leak.

Man, this is really helpful. You definitely don't have hollywood level production, you are just a dad trying to change his oil like me. Thanks for the video! Definitely subscribing and thanks for taking the time to make this!

Excellent video - very thorough and concise. Thanks!

Great video, thank you so much. One thing I want to bring your attention to is that the jack point that you're using seemed to be off just bit. I think the correct sopt is where all the dimples are not where the lump is that you're using. Please check.

You should ALWAYS use a new washer on the drain plug because the old one will be compressed and can leak

Yeah, Had an Acura just before the CX and had those plastic rivet plug thingy's. I broke down and bought the pliers to remove them. They deteriorate over time with heat and the elements so they are easy to break.

Why didn't you clean the base plate to the oil filter? Other then at....pretty good.

Some recommend adding oil to the filter, at least part way full. This applies to filters that mount vertically.

I always wipe off the metal facing that the oil filter gasket contacts. Don't want any debris on that facing.

It's funny how some people state that you should only use the recommended oil by the manufacturer. No, you don't need to do that - the manufacturer typically sponsors a specific brand, in this case Castor Oil. Again, not necessary. Mobil 1 full synthetic is perfectly fine. I use Amzoil OE, as I get a deal on the oil and it's supposed to be better than all the other brands. I change my oil at around 6k-7k, what the manufacturer states (even though you can probably go about 10k miles on full synthetic like most Europeans do). I changed my oil for the 1st time, pretty easy but quite messy. Now I have to find a way to clean up the driveway oil spill splashes. Ugh. Probably use an oil catch pan then next time. Also, I didn't use the torque wrench as I just got it and I don't have the correct size set of sockets - maybe next time. In your case, you could have removed the filter and then torqued the drain plug on though.

Thank you very much. I will be doing my oil change tomorrow with a bit more confidence.

Excellent content & presentation! Thank You.

Thanks man, I'm about to change mine later today. SUBD Appreciate you bro, props from San Diego, Cali Cheeeh Happy Wkn people!!

where does the filter gasket sit?

Hey, thank you so much! Informative and cautionary !

Great video. Thank you. OBTW ,Mazda doesn't change the washer/gasket unless it needs to be changed. 30yrs and thousands dollars later of loyal servitude to Mazda service technichians ...... Just sayin.

If you use an oversize filter, you don't have to mess around with fill, check, add, re-check, etc... the Fram UG7317 fits fine and is a way better filter.

Have u thought changing your drain valve into fumoto drain valve.? Less messy and tool free in the future. That’s my next project on my cx5.

Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated!

NEVER PUT THE DRAIN PLUG BACK IN UNLESS YOU TIGHTEN IT COMPLETELY. Too easy to forget.

Thanks, a very clear and informative video.

Extremely helpful. Thank you very much.

It’s the kids screaming in the back ground for me🤣🤣👍🏽

Very good explanation. Nice job

you should not put jack stands on the pinch weld without some kind of adapter.

Very informative video, thank you so much. May I ask what brand floor jack you have?

Thanks for the step by step saved me 80bucks alsome video 😅

I don't use jack not ramp. It's a SUV so there is enough clearance already.

Nice video. Is that an aftermarket oil drain plug? Size?

What’s the point of the cover? My Honda has none. Cosmetic? It tends to hold oil unless you are really good at cleaning it well

Did you replace the crush washer on the drain plug?

Where does say in the manual for cx5 2024 how much oil the suv holds?

Thank God, I have a car lift

Great video thank you for the clarification.

Could you please list the filter model number...i think you used mobile 1 right?

Write what head sizes you used?

Thank you.

What about the crush washer?

Well done thanks

Well done 👍🏼

I can't do this car without jacking it up? Equinox and Rogue I did not have to jack up. I figured this would be the same. Also, I have an small cordless impact with a swivel and a couple of extensions. Do you think this will work here? I hate having to use ratchets to loosen bolts. I use the ratchet to only tighten.

Thanks, Nice video! Just curious: it appears you used a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter previously but now are using Mobil 1 filter, any specific reason?

So even though the Fram one was smaller than the Mobil 1 one you can use them interchangeably?

Should we jack a car metal on metal?

Your jack point is off, a little to your left where those dimples are is the jack point

Nice job. Thanks for posting this video.

Than you.

The 2018 actually takes the 17mm socket not 8mm hex👍

You don't change the crush washer (is there one?)

liked and subbed.

Can you do this without a jack ?

After how many miles is recommended to change the oil?

can u do this w/o lifting the car?

Do you recommend putting in 5Q or 4.8Q

Crush washer?

Well your clockwise is wrong

If you keep doing 10k oil changes you will turn that engine into an oil burner. That oil was dirty stick with 5k intervals.

Do the filter first. Dropping a oil filter in a drain pan full of oil makes a mess.

Why not go to harbor freight and get yourself some ramps. They are like $30. It would take you a lot less time and it is easier than th3 way you are doing it

FYI. Based on Mobile’s website, the oil you used is not the recommended motor oil

Cut your finger nails boi