Not going to lie, you sound like a huge douche/moron when you say "if you think 300hp is fast, you've never been in a fast car" lol Buddy, not all of us care for 600hp GTR's; for a daily driver, 300hp is plenty. Cars with insane power are pretty much useless on the streets IMO. It's a matter of "when" not "if" when it comes to losing your license in those things. Some states and provinces will straight up take your car away on the spot.
All depends on the mass of the car. 300 bhp in a suburban is barely enough to pull a greased needle out of a rat's ass. 300 bhp in a mk1 VW rabbit ~1800 pounds (original name for the Golf, circa 1977) is... Sprightly. I don't know if I would call it fast, but it sure is quick. Today's hypercars have gotten ludicrously quick.
Agree. A 265 hp WRX is tons of fun and will scare the heck out of you. My brother in law has a car with 400 hp and it's uncomfortably fast and pretty unusable. Honestly, having a car with heaps of power is only fun on the track. On the road, it's just frustrating. And lots of modern cars with listed huge amounts of power are pulling timing and ignition to make the cars more usable so the drivers don't kill themselves.
@@Feintgames I'm enjoying the heck out of my 3 turbo. I've had much faster cars. A tuned 968 & a bugeye stage 2. But the 3 is a daily driver that does the job very comfortably & has enough sauce to make the mountain roads fun. Biggest weakness is the brakes, which quite frankly are inadequate for more than a few minutes of spirited driving. Ordered the cork sport big brake kit & will install in January. I wouldn't ad ANY power before addressing the brakes.
@@thebarkingmouse I also just bought a CX-30 and came from a 2020 AWD Stinger GT 3.3TT and I also love this Mazda.I lloved my stinger but I owned it outright and I made almost 9k more then what i paid for it last year.I was able to buy this CX-30 outright and also plan on an exhaust--bigger tires and a brake kit--but brakes and tires are the weakpoints.The local track near me is closing and they are cracking down on folks in nice cars because of the idiots and this car is a great balance of speed in a vehicle that does not draw attention.I want to keep my warranty and a JB4 is a no no cause they can tell if you had one.KIA told me they are cracking down cause the Jb4s are ruining plugs and other items and they are not going to cover damage done by a Jb4 anymore.
It's now March '23, a good 18 months after this video was posted, which was shortly after it came out on the Mazda 3, and still really not a lot of Mazda JB4 videos on here. Quite a bit more has been learned about it since then, in fact, it was still in Beta until early summer '22. So after getting one of the first "final" versions barely out of Beta on my Mazda 3 Turbo in June of '22, I now have 14k miles using it, thoroughly testing and logging with it under all kinds of conditions. I had one on my previous car too, and did a lot of testing with that as well so I can explain all the pro's and con's of it on the Mazda 3 turbo, to help those new to the platform or even how JB4's work may be curious and I know not everyone wants to join FB groups and forums and dig for info and just want a good summary before looking deeper into it... *Quick rambling summary/spoiler alert: After tons of trial and error with settings and different conditions, I have Dragy verified 13.5 1/4 mile and 4.93 0-60 w/1ft rollout as my best times, all on Map 1, which in the cold dense winter air is faster and smoother pulling to the top of the powerband than Map 2 w/intake/exhaust/JB4, due to low torque limits enforced. While Mazda claims 23hp difference between 87 and 93 stock, 90%+ of the gains using a JB4 come with just 91, with 93 mostly helping in the summer heat. An even bigger benefit is that the powerband is expanded 500 RPM higher over stock too, and pulls much more quickly and smoothly all the way to 5500 RPM quickly, but this could be in combo with my intake/exhaust, but really makes a huge difference in making this car feel much better. But basically low torque limits prevents making more power than Map 1 in winter or Map 2 in summer, you feel the pulls up high slowing down and not as smooth. Personally I'm gonna try Map 2 again once temps hit over 60f where I live. Using e85 mostly only helps those with 91 pump use Map 2 by adding 2.5 gallons per tank, or a gallon added in the summer with 92-93 helps keep things maxed, using custom Map 6 with e-blends can help you make the turbo hit like crazy down low, but that's not healthy for the drivetrain an then you get the stuttering of hitting torque limits even faster, but may help with very tight auto-x courses if you must at your own risk, heh. Besides limited max gains with ECU enforced torque limits, another major downside is it also doesn't add power when already at freeway speeds due to limitations in controlling all the sensors needed to add boost under light loads, so it sucks for freeway roll racing. Look at DRTuned for a real tune if you want more power at all times and much more good stuff with an actual tune.. Also, you HAVE to set "Auto Shift Boost Redux" in the advance settings if you don't want sloppy feeling shifts! This is a major pro-tip that I don't know why BMS doesn't recommend, nor is discussed much, it is set to 0 by default but makes a HUGE difference in shift quality by changing it to 3 or 4. Overall, not a bad improvement for a safe bit of gains and smoother/higher powerband, almost like OEM+ like it should have came from the factory for launches and low speed especially if you can one find one used cheap... Full rambling of basic and expanded info - It is a long established product available on many turbo cars but for at least this Mazda engine, It really only adds power from a stop or when "getting on it" at low speeds, mostly under 45 mph, maybe even less. This is due to limitations on the number of connections it has vs. needed to control boost at all times with the way modern ECU's use load to "torque target" a specific output. Yes, this makes the JB4 limited, but the added power is at least *always* there from a dig and low speeds where most of use and want it at. If you want a more fully product that makes power for passing when already at highway speeds - never for high speed roll racing right? ;) - then go for a full tune, to keep it short, do have tons more benefits too, are starting to become available, thanks to Daniel with DRTuned. - So, as I imply above, for those that don't know, the JB4 is not a tune at all, it is simply a "piggyback" device that tricks the ECU to add more boost, but total power limits and all safety related stuff is untouched in the actual stock tune, so the power it does add is within Mazda programmed allowed safety margins. - Since it is not a tune nor changes anything in the stock tune at all, this also makes it warranty friendly. It is easy to install/remove on this car and when you remove it there is no trace it was ever there. Again, since the power it makes falls under the power limit margins allowed by the stock tune anyway, don't feel guilty if you do need to make a warranty claim. - Using it, expecially with added mods like intake and exhaust, really helps the stock tune feel much better on the 3! Strangely enough, Mazda did not change the tune at all for the 3 and pretty much the same as the SUV low end torque tune from the large CX-9 the engine originally came in for the 2016 model year. The JB4 helps eliminate the dip in power around 4200 RPM and the power falling flat on its face at 5000 RPM that all stock Mazda's with this engine has. Instead, it pulls faster and smoother all the way to 5500 RPM now, which is a really nice improvement to use in a sporty car, and that leaves you in a better part of a power band after a shift for better pull as well. - With the default settings recommended, by BMS you will likely get mushy/slippy type shifts under full power under full power, and a lot of people complain about this, which leads to others to bag on the JB4 as unsafe, BUT there is a setting to help the transmission shift cleaner, quicker and healthier. Long story short, despite no discussion at all on it in the Mazda JB4 circles, I knew about this setting from the JB4 on my VW, so after slippy feeling shifts tried it on the Mazda and it works *amazing*, it literally what overall makes the JB4 worth buying over any of the other 1-2 piggyback boost devices out there. (User settings ->"auto shift boost redux" For Map 1 use "3" and for Map 2 use "4") -Unfortunately, those safety limits talked about above are set quite low on this engine, *especially even more so on the 3*. Mazda must feel there is not enough room for proper cooling or something, so long story short, depending on mods and air temp, sometimes even the basic Map 1 works best even if you have better fuel available, or else you can have slower and less smooth rev outs to the top - If you have other mods, like intake, exhaust or especially any airflow mods to help with under-hood/intake manifold temps down, such as hood vents or the front of the plastic wiper cowl removed, even Map 2 can have you scraping the power limits and not let you rev out as quick up top, so yes, my best times with my mods (intake, exhaust, under-hood temp mods) are with Map 1.
@@cameronbeyer7687 When creating a custom full ECU tune, 100% true... it's just with the JB4 it only allows for increase of boost through manipulation of the sensor signals and tweaking fuel bias to support that, so for timing you are stuck with whatever the stock ECU tune maxes out at, I should have been more clear!
I'm in Houston area too. Just got jb4 haven't installed yet. Total noob question. Switching maps? Is that done with the car off? Or it works while car is running? Also damn, that mileage. I'm averaging 23.1 doing mostly stop light traffic and 45-50mph between lights. Rare occasion I hit I10 it's more like 27-28mpg.
My CX-30 turbo is stock but I get 21 city and 33-34 highway easily. Looking forward to trying the JB4 eventually though thanks for uploading these videos!
Hi thanks for uploading this , I just used stop watch and first run was 5.58 Second run was 5.77 Is there something wrong ? Because there is not much difference
Did you ever change out stock intake and exhaust? Thats when you really feel gains. My car (Mazda6 Turbo) isnt tuned and gained a lot from the corksport intake and axle back exhaust. Adding this piggyback with those mods should gain even more. Especiallt high end... just curious to see if you have...
It never held steady 27lbs, that was just a peak number. It usually was 20-23lbs depending on conditions. Another update video on the car should be coming soon!
@@3turbo144 ahh, so it’s kinda like an over boost function for an instant. Just ordered a 22 for a daily so looking to learn the potential of the 2.5. Thanks for the vid and info 👍🏼
@@NEMotoGuy not really. These cars don’t really look at the boost number they have a load based ECU so the boost number will fluctuate. 27lbs was just a very brief spike, none of the current maps available will actually keep it that high
@@3turbo144 5.4 0 to 60? That's really quick. I'm looking at getting one of these soon can't wait. My Audi s3 8v has a JB4 and full bolt ons, lot of top end in comparison which I do kind of miss when I test drove the Mazda 3 turbo it's just a bunch of torque which is fun. Do you think the jb4 helped the top end of the revs? I think with an intake and exhaust in addition you'd see some really decent gains! Love how "sleeper" these cars are.
@@3turbo144 Nah 300hp is still fast for a car, just look at the average horsepower of non-sport cars. Plus it's the torque that gives you the feeling of acceleration, anything in the mid 300's to low 400's in torque will definitely be something you'll feel.
@@3turbo144 I've spent a good amount of time in the past year or two in cars of all ranges of torque. Usually between 250-350 lbft, but also as high as 500-650. It might just be that we all have different thresholds for what we consider to be quick.
@@3turbo144 the definition of fast is skewed to accomodate the increase in people buying performance cars. Anything under 6 seconds to 100 is fast, anything under 5 is way above the average car still. Have recorded 6.5 in my 2.0 2019 which isn’t horrible, got a 4.4 in my old 2012 m135i which I considered fast enough for a daily driver lol
I do not understand how you’re getting such horrendous gas mileage. I get 26-28 & I drive fairly sporty, just city driving. If I do highway, I’m getting like 35 lol… did you reset your MPG COMPLETELY to get an accurate reading?
City milage in poor in this car, but I expect that in a turbo AWD car. I live in the Appalachian foothills and I can barely get over 30mpg. Keep in mind though the interstate averages 75mph though. Ethanol is lower energy density, so you have to burn more fuel compared to standard premium gas. Ethanol does have the perk of running cooler, so you can get more overall power if the fuel delivery can handle it.
Hold the Brake, Raise the Revs, release the brake, then full throttle. You will probably knock a second off that 0-60 time. I timed you at 6.3 seconds which is not bad.
I wasn’t testing 0-60, I was trying to show real world acceleration difference, even though it looks the same on camera lol. If I tried to brake boost it I would never leave at the same rpm or same amount of boost every run, also I could get wheel spin or bog down leading to inconsistency. Just flooring it in drive is the most consistent way I could show the difference. (Btw, usually just flooring it got me 6.0-6.3, brake boosting best I got was 5.1 I think, but that was spinning all 4 through 1st)
Just watching the RPM sweep, I can see a difference. The JB4 for the 2.5T is still in beta, so they'll probably be able to get more power once they have more time with it. Do you have any other mods on your 3?
@@3turbo144 that might be where the gains are coming from not the JB4, lol. Been watching your videos and its really making me want to get the JB4. Just returned my new Radenso Radar Detector to get a JB4 instead, lol
That's an awesome upgrade for the money. I'm glad it doesn't ruin the drivability. Essentially this is an entry level lux. It would be silly to rice it out. It a nice car. Are you going to do intake and exhaust
I’m not worried about reliability. Some components may not last quite as long as they would stock the but I don’t think it will make a major affect on reliability
You’re getting 15 mpg in mixed driving and 21 mpg on the highway? That’s like 10 mpg under what it’s rated for. An STi thats known for horrible fuel economy will pull better numbers than that around the city.
@@kellyyyanneee I mean if I’m hyper mile I get those mpg but he lives in Houston which is similar to miami in traffic, for every mile it’s like 5-10 miles of driving during rush hour sooo yeah it makes sense (tho he is beating on it I get more than that even with traffic)
Yeah the camera won’t pick up the difference, but driving it you can feel it. Racing my buddies Q60 I definitely keep up a lot better now than I did before
Best I got was 5.1, but my tires were worn out and I was spinning all 4 through 1st gear. Someone else got 4.8 which I find very believable, I think it could be even faster with a good set of tires
@@3turbo144 yeah, tires make a big difference for sure, the grip of the actual road plays a part too 300ish hp with awd should be right around 5 seconds on a good surface Really hoping to see more people build these up, I bet you could get atleast 350hp without changing much with the right tune
“300 Hp is not fast, if you think 300hp is fast you’ve never been in a fast car” lol.. and you consider yourself to be a car guy?! That’s the most ignorant shit I’ve ever heard
A lot of people in the comments section been saying that 300 whp isn’t fast. Yeah in a track yes 300 isn’t that fast, but for the street driving that is plenty. Most of the older muscle cars factory power were around 300 wheel to 350 wheel horsepower. I don’t care what anybody says anything more than 400 wheel horsepower is just unusable. Unless you think you can run from the cops(charger and challenger drivers).
My new daily makes 500hp and I think it’s slow. I use all the power just fine and never run from the cops. Obviously you can’t use any amount of power all the time, but there’s a time and a place for everything
@@Steve-fc4bo not the JB4 that caused it . JB4 is actually quite mild compared to all out tune you probably only adding 60 hp with it . Blame the clutches and gear box duty capacity,
I promise you a piggyback on a 250hp car did not turn it into a 300hp car. If anything I bet MAYBE 10 more peak horsepower. Probably a better difference in the mid to low RPM though. The The factory turbo runs out of steam way before it gets to high RPM. Thats why the thing short shifts at like 5000rpm all the time. It falls on its face up top. You can try to add boost all you want. Its out of the turbos efficiency range and actually loses power.
Well according to a few people that have dynod with the JB4 it’s putting down 260ish whp which comes out to right around 300 crank horsepower Also with the JB4 it does pull stronger above 5k even. And even without the JB4 after break in my car usually doesn’t shift till redline, it will actually sometimes hit the rev limiter in 1st gear in Drive
Unsure if you know what a JB4 is, it’s not an eBay piggyback lol. Look at what the JB4 did to the 335i when it came out lol, 80 whp gain with no other mods, just a JB4. FBO with the JB4 saw like 150ish whp on a 335i... 50~ hp gain on a modern turbo 4 isn’t hard to achieve with a tuner…
@@sleeper.simulant7327 I know exactly what a JB4 is. It is a signal interceptor\modifier like every other piggyback. Not saying it doesnt work, cuz it certainly does. I also know the oem turbo on the 2.5T mazda is too small to begin with and will not make 50 more PEAK horsepower ever. It just cant flow enough volume. Dont believe me, look at the compressor flow charts for yourself. What it CAN do and DOES is add a bunch of power under the curve its very possible that somewhere in the lower RPM range, maybe 3-4k rpm that there is a 50HP increase. But peak HP is found at high RPM and this turbo cant do it.
I wasn’t testing 0-60, I was trying to show real world acceleration difference, even though it looks the same on camera lol. If I tried to brake boost it I would never leave at the same rpm or same amount of boost every run, also I could get wheel spin or bog down leading to inconsistency. Just flooring it in drive is the most consistent way I could show the difference. (Btw, usually just flooring it got me 6.0-6.3, brake boosting best I got was 5.1 I think, but that was spinning all 4 through 1st)
I drive Infiniti Q50 3.0T AWD tuned push 440whp and still dont think it is fast . Here Mazda guys buys 4c tiny turbo cars and wants them to sound and feel fast . Does not work
Incorrect. The JB4 can be removed from the car and engine bay in like 10 minutes MAX. What you are referring to are the ECU Updates Tunes which change the actual operation of the ECU from stock to the new tuning curves. THAT will end you warrantly for sure. The JB4 will not.
@@fokingking That's incredible to hear!!! I just upgraded from the 2020 M3 select to the 2021 M3 2.5 turbo premium. It feels so crazy all the new features and jump in hp but I already want just a little bit more hp but the stock 250 with 93 is still great for me for now. I think I'll go with this upgrade soon based off mostly good reviews. Thanks!
