Mazda5 Sport 145hp.. 99,000 miles. Over last couple of years its needed... EGR valve Lower cam seal (+ belts etx) Loads of different suspension parts Now leaking oil from somewhere else... Has been an expensive car to keep on road for me, but it still pulls and druves really well and the space is perfect for our family.
Thanks for this - I'm going to go look at one and this will give me a lot more insight on what to look for and what to ask about maintenance. Really great, information-rich, video!
I have the 2.3 liter (US) gas Mazda5 with somewhere between 100,000 and 200,000 miles (not km). Most recent repairs included a new throttle body (because the old one failed) and new suspension bushings and struts. I've heard that the suspension on these cars is the weakest area of the car, and that's definitely been the case in my experience.
@@hc7747 i have a 2006 mazda 5 1.8 european model I bought it new and it now has 360,000 km on the counter ,because a lot of driving with heavy trailers (1350 kg) I replaced the shock absorbers in 2021, this was after 302,000 km and then aligned the axles that was the first time in all those years, otherwise it has no rust anywhere and it drives perfectly, the only problem it has is that it has to be filled with oil more often than I was used to from Mazda but that is also a known problem (a design flaw by Ford) and the materials used for the cylinders what causes it, although I think 1 liter per 5000km is best we accept.
Jan 2022. 2009 Mazda 5- built in Japan. @83,000 miles. (Recall on power steering unit) Rear view mirror fell off on own. Blown LED strip for third brake light, $275-water got into the light housing. A very rotted transmission pan. The body rusts way too easily- real bad, posterior wheel wells) Having to start it in neutral sometimes- needing shifter apparatus lubed. Bad battery cable terminals, unable to tighten onto battery posts- replaced-$140. Replaced the muffler twice. And pipe once. Sliding door rollers rotting so door doesn’t shut- and doesn’t click to stay open. Rides like a lumber wagon now. Did not come with roof rack strips-$800. CD player stopped playing, last year. AC has stopped cooling, last year. Fan in middle console for passengers stopped working, some years ago. It’s a zippy car. Unfamiliar drivers (mechanics) get surprised by its pep. Love love love the room in it while having the size of a car chassis. 28-32 mpg
I have a 2008 M5 with 313,xxx original mileage , only changed fluids , spark plugs , suspension back and front , starter , now I will do seals all in engine and transmission , also doing a transmission seal and solenoids with new fluid . These vans are very reliable and useful if taking care of carefully , rims I went with a 2009 Crown Victoria police interceptor and 215/55/17 for my comfort but I can’t hate on this vehicle it takes me wherever I have to go plus I had it at 80,000 miles when bought most is highway miles
Most of the stuff you mention is normal wear & tear. Can't believe you've didn't mentioned the biggest fault on these cars - the rear suspension camber often being set incorrectly from the factory & causing premature rear tyre wear.
I bought a pair of adjustable rear control arms for my 2010 M5 and it solved the issue. I also change the front sway bar bushing it has a clunking noise when you go over bumps.
2009 base 2.3l that keep going left, went for an alignment, the shop told me to replace the shocks, but decided to just keep driving. Maybe front bushings. Everything works except all the passenger windows doesn't roll down, only the driver window would roll up and down with no problem. Still run well, just keep changing the engine oil now. Hope it will last a few more years.
I just bought a 2010 Sport model with 190k miles on it. How’s yours holding up now? I’m concerned about the suspension issues most everyone reports online and it’s never had the clutch replaced, but it feels fine right now…
Own 2010 model. Down sides to me: mini spare only works on rear, fuel filter integral to fuel pump inside fuel tank, only one size low profile tire fits rim and potholes suck big with these, weight distribution results in easy spin out with manual tranny from stop on wet slope, with only 73k miles engine top end clacking, on forth battery but I killed one of them with inside light left on. I-stop on newer model beware (?) most engine wear is on start up bc oil pressure needed to lube top end, starter wear out faster, battery lifespan? Get rid of engine vanity cover bc critters love nesting under it. Plus side: I can camp/sleep in it with seats folded up in down position, 30 mpg on hwy, original brakes at 50%. This car was gifted to me, I would not buy one.
Not that I would know how you would find this information out, but never buy a new/used auto built on a Monday or a Friday. I've been told that Monday is hangover day, and Friday is hurry-up work for the weekend. Wednesday is the perfect day (?) I would guess? I own a 2009 Mazda5, bought it used, had it for over a year now and am very happy with it. Of course it's a used vehicle but not all "new" vehicles are perfect! When you are gifted or buy a USED anything (?) you understand that it does not come with a new car warranty, so you make payments for months/years for a new car or you set aside money for used car repairs. One is a lot cheaper that the other. Do your own math and come to your own conclusions re; new via used. Most of the time the first owner get all the bugs out/fixed under warranty for now it's just how much mileage/wear and tear/etc is left for the dollars I'm paying...knowing that I will have to fix somethings down the road. Buyer beware is just plain knowledge of what you are doing.
@@MrPHart Currently planning to buy a 2009 with 130,000 miles privately. Overall in great condition. It will soon need shocks, engine mounts, and there is this odd almost electrical buzz sound from the hood when the a/c is turned on. Sounds almost like something hitting the tip of the fan as it rotates. The AT light is on, it drives really smooth and quiet with a lot of power for a smaller vehicle and thankfully the a/c runs nice and cold. I'm terrified it will need immediate repairs, but this is the best, cleanest, well priced vehicle I have found. Last vehicle I purchased transmission went in 4 mths I was devastated. Took forever to save and here I am doing it all over again! 🤷🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️Wish me luck 🙏🏽
@@MrPHart this can be used when getting work done on the car. So never bring on a Monday or at least not in the morning and don't bring it in on a thurs/fri. So I guess Tuesday is the sweet spot for car work
@trewti The buzzing electrical noise is likely coming from the A/C clutch getting fried and needing replacement. Either replace it yourself or get the entire compressor replaced (comes with a new clutch) because the cause of the clutch getting fried is typically a compressor that is malfunctioning and will stop working in the near future.
I have been getting more and more frustrated with my 2006 Mazda 5 touring. There are plenty of things, pretty much everything that you mentioned in your video Plus these little unnecessary differences in every other car I've ever driven. Headlight replacement ridiculous! Ridiculous! It cost me hundreds of dollars just replacing the stupid bulbs and that's still not working right I'm so angry! It's not the fuse or anything it's the clips that hold the lamp in it's the worst thing ever it should be recalled also the AC belt being self-adjusting is stupidest thing I've ever heard of it wasn't even making noise before I had it changed because it was the time the service schedule said to change it so I had to change and it's squeaked ever since and doesn't air condition for crap even when I'm not even turning on the air conditioner or the defroster at all just when I turn on the heater without it being recycled air or AC at all it squeaks and howls louder than anything else around it sounds like my car is going to fall apart. Yeah the suspension ridiculous I had the shocks and all that stuff replaced but I guess the thing that he didn't do with the bushings and I'm just angry about that too that mechanic and the Mazda should just be burned in an open pit as far as I'm concerned so now I've got his car that's still clumps and cracks and scrunches down the road and now it squeals ever since he worked on it and it leaks oil and other fluids and the stupid headlights and I'm just at my Wit's end I wish somebody was in love with this car that wanted to trade me straight across for one that was higher off the ground in the first place had brighter lights ran well and the suspension is good cuz I drive down allot of damn bumpy roads!
Hola, tengo un Mazda 5 del 2007 2.0 143hp diesel con 180,000 km se cambió el embrague y volante biomasa. Ahora tiene 210,000 km y parece ser que está dando problemas de inyectores aunque el diesel que el coche consume es premium en Repsol y bp. Las averías de este coche son caras en comparación con otros coches y el concumo de combustible no es de los más altos pero tampoco de los más bajos, una media de 7,6 litros a los 100km mixto. (ciudad y carretera).también otro de los problemas,son los discos, se calientan y se deforman lo que hace que al frenar vibre. Por lo demás es un coche que en pleno funcionamiento, responde bien. Es amplio y cómodo. Tiene 7 plazas aunque en las plazas centrales no cogen 3 personas adultas cómodamente. Es un coche muy familiar y con un maletero enorme. Espero que os sirva de ayuda.
I have a 2009 2.3L and this car has all those problems especially the transmission with solenoid problems always drops the AT light if you have any solutions please reach out to me and let me know what to do!!!!!!!!
Bought a used 2008 Mazda 5 192.578 mile seemed to r u. And drive now it just drives for 45 minutes then the front passenger side does a thunk and the automatic the at light comes on and tranny jerks down to 3rd gear and then wont shift up past 3rd gear it will downshift to 1st gear up to 3rd gear then it wont shift any further I ve put it in park shut it off take key out start it put it in drive at light comes on again shift 1-3 gears and thats it wont shift to 4th or 5th put it in manual mode several times only recently it went to manual mode drove for miles ended up doing the same thing again haven t had the codes read as to dont know if it will make it to the auto shop or parts store to get codes checked tranny fluid seems to be where it needs to be but alittle black color maybe I just change fluid it be better
