@@12voltvids Yeah these trolls are really sad.. . Probably it is just jealousy. I think on your channel people can see that you really know what you are doing. You don't see that very often on YT. You've got tremendous experience. And they can see that too. And the fact that customers bring you their high end top dollar McIntosh equipment says it all imho.
I enjoyed that a lot. Wow, what a job that was! When I used to do this for a living, I'd dread writing up invoices where a dollar part was next to a $50 labor charge. My boss would tell me to break down the labor on the invoice so the customer would know how involved a job was.
I had one a hole of a customer that was so anal that he wanted a total break down to the minute of the service. The invoice went something like this. Part cost 5.00. Labour charge 90.00 Break down of labour charge Labour to disassemble and reassemble 10 Labour to replace part 10 Labour to clean heads and mechanism 30 Knowing how to take it apart and get it back together 40 Shop supplies 5.00 Itemized invoice 2.00 After this prick, the shop policy was changed. What happened was an over zealous kid that was working in the store phoned the customer with the good news that their VCR was fixed only an hour or so after it walked in the door. It just so happened that I had just finished a job when it was carried around the back and I grabbed it and went to work on it. Problem, kentucky fried chicken boned shoved in and then a tape put in. Broken gears and grease all over the place. We got a good laugh about that.
Smashing job :-D I have noticed that quality equipment is carefully handled, as it should be. Ordinary generic stuff is typically in a rough shape case wise, no need to get the white gloves out ha ha :-D That's a really unusual pcb, no shortcuts with the audio processing, and all of the power supply is there to the left. The digital side is in the basement lol.
Love these machines like this. Many people got rid of the DVD players to upgrade to blue ray and HDMI outputs. Still make awesome CD and SACD player, and fairly cheap now. I have a Sony DVP-S9000es which I had a new laser transport put in it and use it for audio only, mainly for SACD. Copper clad chassis, Nichicon Gold audiophile caps, huge power supplies, and you can switch off the video to lower noise.
The bastard that owned this machine was bragging how he got it for 200 and was so happy to have found it. I tried to charge him 100 because i know he is a grinder and sure enough he pulls out a 50 and that is all he has. I ran into him a few weeks ago and he was blowing about selling this unit to someone for 1300.00. Guess what, he just shot himself in the foot because I had a few pieces of equipment of his that is never going to be repaired. You know the saying don't bite the hand that feeds you.
@@12voltvids Standard bench fee around here in the Seattle area is $100 minimum just to diagnose and tell you what it needs. I seem to acquire things people have left with me because they did not want to pay several hundred to fix it. I took in a Sansui G-8700DB and I told the guy that these direct coupled amps are known to short out and take other parts with it like dominoes. Sure enough all the outputs are shorted and mismatched transistors botched into one channel with resistors in the bias circuit altered just to make it work, sort of. Total of 16 transistors and 8 resistors fried, so he said keep it.
@@zulumax1 Nobody around here will pay a dime for estimate fees. That's why i got out in 2003. Tell them there is an estimate fee and they walk. The only reason I take on any repairs is to make a video of. I make far more from the advertising than the repair.
@@12voltvids Depends on what you are working on, of course for a piece of gear that is only worth $100 or so, of course not. We are lucky to have a brick and mortar hifi audio shop here in Gig Harbor, WA USA. The repair technician George has plenty of incoming repairs sitting on the shelf. The basic fee eliminates the bottom feeders. Of course he is working on McIntosh, Krell, Naim, Acuphase, and Line Magnetic, mostly high end top shelf stuff. Myself, I can't charge a minimum fee either, that is why I end up with the carcass. Looking for videos on repair and circuit theory of operations of CD players and VHS machines. I have dead ones that need to be bought back to life. I subscribed because you seem to cover some of these facets. Thank you for responding.
It was a bit of work and I am going to have to fight with the owner because he never wants to spend more than 30.00 on repairs. Actually I am going to offer to buy it from him if the price is right.
@@12voltvids A while back i saw a guy put coke cola on cassette deck belts in a youtube video and he said it helps make them slide nicer again. Do you thnk its a bad idea to use coke cola for things like that. He was also using it on cassette tape housing for ones with sticky wheels.
@@12voltvids that's weird. Usually McIntosh owners have a lot of money and take good care of their machines. They won't bother if the thing needs a few hundred $$ to repair it...
Nice job on this deck. McIntosh units are top machines but also a paradox for anyone servicing it. As they are built like tanks, they are luckily particularly well built and aging well. But this has a double cost: first when you buy it, second when you service it. Once you know the value of these, it's a dream to have one to service, and you just want to care with maximal attention, white gloves and so on. But once you're really in, it's a nightmare: heavy and fragile equipment, hundred of screws and limited accessibility, specific technologies... I remember a "small" integrated amp, 105W but 40 lbs beast with it's fabulous output transformers, that needed vu-meters lights replacement and pots cleaning with a general dust cleaning: hundred of screws, hours of attentive care with the glass and aluminium face plate, limited accessibility in a heavy and tight mechanism. Not the Japanese modular point of view: it's not two minutes to get a drop of Deoxit in the volume pot , but two hours to access it, two month to get a new one. But once cleaned as a surgical plateau and checked, it was worth any Penny and attention it needed! Anyway, it's also very impressive to manage with these equipments, least expensive ones are always priced in thousands, but loosing less value as they age than average. This SACD DVD was far advanced in technology when it was produced 20 years ago, and actual Blu-ray or high definition DACS are far more performant, but it's still sounding good and probably better than most actual decks on the market. Their tuners and power amps are fabulous. If you have the luck and money to buy one, you'll be the next happy few!
Oh I have the money. The reason I have the money is I don't blow it on audiophile equipment. I have some but I only buy stuff cheap. I have a McIntosh tube amp in storage. The main reason I am not using it is because the output tubes are original and are no longer available. I piss my cash away on new cars and motorcycles. You know, boys' toys.
I'd consider McIntosh pretty high quality overall. Ive not owned anything other than their car amps. And those are very pricey but well worth the clean output they make. I still have two really big McIntosh MC4000M car amps i bought back in the early 90s, and they still work like new, though a little beat up on the outside. Multi outputs for several speakers including subs. But we're talking thousands of $ for one today.
Ive not heard that particular model, but i bets it sounds really good! A friend of mine had a 4000 series? back in the day. Pretty sure it had some wood grain looking cover? He said it was better than his Marantz...but Im not sure of that. Lol
As usual, nice job, the belt definitely needed changing. However I couldn't help wondering if the reported (stops after 5 mins) complaint was due to a mucky laser or gummed up sled.
Only ever seen one, this one. Tried to buy it as guy that brought it in told me he snagged it broken for 100. Told him the repair was 150. He bitched and complained about the price. I offered to buy for 250 he wouldn't sell. Offered me 100. Then he brags about selling it for 1300. So he had 200 into it. Fired him.
You gotta stop slamming your self who cares what viewers are thinking you are an excellent technician I would trust you with my McIntosh C28 pre amp and my McIntosh M250 you rock brother I watch all your videos
Of course it did. No way to reach it assembled. It is about 2" back. Try and do that without taking it apart and not damage the finish. It may have looked easy but you didn't see the 15 minutes of cursing and turning the drive every which way but up to get that bloody belt in. The camera cuts and like magic the belt is over the motor pulley. It was not that simple and there was about 15 minutes of struggling to get the belt in place. There is a plastic cam that is in the way that moves the laser block up and the tray has to be closed and the chuck moved up slightly to get the belt behind it, then opened again to pull the belt over the top. So no way in hell is that being done without removing the deck and anyone that says different is a troll trying to stir up shit.
I'm very confused with the internals on this player. My MVP 861 has none of the foil around the power cables or the ribbon like in this. Nor does it have the rubber coating on everything. Makes me wonder if this was hot rodded out by mod wright or something? Very weird! 🤔
All the shown resonance and shielding mods, incl. the blue Mc glue was done aftermarket. There is no factory TSB for that type of modification which I am aware of, and I work on Mc gear of all years and types regularly. Matter of fact, I own a MVP-861. I use it all the time for region-less optical media, incl. SACD, CD, DVD/A, HDCD, MP-3 and more. I also have a MVP-891 for Bluray discs and newer A/V codec decoding. The belts in these fail about every 5 years on average, like clockwork. I''m on my 2nd replacement,... I only use the belts sold from Mc's Parts dept, or Audio Classics (same thing). All belts are not created equal. Japanese belts made of virgin rubber are superior in quality and hold up the longest. As far as changing out the load belt, there is some truth in that there is an easier less labor intensive way to do it. BUT, I did the exact same thing 12Volt Videos did on my first MVP belt change too, so no harm no foul no disgrace. I now have a shortcut which I use a factory guy clued me in on. It doesn't put the transport, face plate, or surrounding electronics in harms way and saves time. I've got a new belt on the way for a MVP as I type this, same issues.
Don’t electrolyte capacitors mechanically vibrate? Put a stethoscope on a power supply cap and they hum. That’s my guess as to why there’s the coating on the caps.
Good video. I think this player may have been modified by the Upgrade Company. They are known to mod units with blue conformal coatings and RFI shielding on power and some signal cables. I have not seen these sort of things present in any stock McIntosh products.
So the guy that had this one picked it up for 100.00. I tried to bill him 100 for the repair. He bitched and complained. So i offered to buy it from him for 300. He refused to sell and offered me 50 buck for the repair. I told him i would remove it and return to broken condition. He finally came up to 80 and cried about being broke so it was take 80 or remove the belt for free. I held firm on 100 but he threw 80 and said that was his limit. Said he was going to keep it because he loved the look and that's why he wouldnt sell to me. I ran into him about 6 months later and he was bragging how someone gave him 1300 for it and how much he made. Needless to say the rest of the crap of his I had didn't get repaired and I was working on an expensive sub that i just stuck back together. Don't need customers like that. Anything he wants repaired is going to really cost him going forward and it will be cash up front.
@@12voltvids That's crazy, the teardown on this unit was pretty involved. A $100 for the diag and fix is very reasonable. Some people are way too cheap.
@@daslaundrynazi tell me about it. That was one of the reasons i left the business. No money in it. I make 100 to demold an 8mm video tape. Some places charge upwards of 400 to do that. I might release a video on how to do it just to stick it to the guy in New York that charges 400 for basically about 30 minutes of work.
It'd be interesting to know how much of that is actually American made. My guess is the transport is Japanese as are most of the components. More like assembled in the USA.
Cool early 2000s tech. A bit of an overkill on the shielding and vibration dampening though. A bit of snake oil has a long tradition on high end stuff it seems.
I advertise it all on Craigslist. I don't bother with fleabay because if it doesn't sell I am still paying fees. I'd nobody takes it then it goes to value village if working. Naturally stuff that is not functional or barely functional gets turfed. I have a bunch of stuff to turf soon.
I hope you used a low-oxygen high-octane double-insulated gold-impregnated Llama-approved belt, or it will make the bits fly right out of the front of the cabinet when you close the drawer. :-) Gotta admit though, that looks like a nice player.
Ya it is stupid what they go for. I saw a McIntosh 1600 like I have sell for 4 grand. You know what they say about fools and their money. Well I am not a fool and that's who I have money.
Well I am going to try and get 100 out of him considering what it is, and he will whine and cry and grind me, telling me his "other guy" would do it for 30. This is one of those pain in the ass customers I have. I would go broke quickly if they were all like this. That big RCA console netted me a buck and half and the client didn't bat an eye. Probably could have charged them 2 bills and they wouldn't have complained. Mind you I did have to go to their house and remove it, and then deliver it and reinstall.
@@12voltvids About the RCA set, I cannot seem to find a picture of it installed in the cabinet. When I search the model number the only hits relating to that model are your repair video.
This thing has nothing in regards to build quality and serviceability of the old “7”-series TOTL ES players. Though the coating is nice I question the necessity, especially considering that plenty other parts might also be susceptible to this, including the PCB’s.
A quality unit, but appears to still use a 'cheap' PC type drive unit? I've got the same fault on my PC drive, and looking at the drive in my unit it looks the same......
Someone is selling a Denon DVD-3800bdci which is a Blu ray player as well for $330 US Dollar.Denon are supposed to be high end but this McIntosh is more stratospheric in price! Buy it from him if you can!
Here we go. Another idiot that thinks wrist straps are required. Got new for you bud, they are not. Only if you are handling bare components, and only if you are in a dry air high static environment. I wear cotton clothes which do not generate static, and I also discharge my body every time I touch the grounded tripod to start and stop the camera. In the 40 years i have been working on electronics i have damages exactly 0 circuits from static electricity and I have done component level chip replacements. As long as you touch something metal first there will be no static charge in your body because you have already drained it.
Hi there. What could it be if CD player is not reading discs? only gives one turn then stops, and one here's a ticking sound in it, its the lens moving up and down. Thanks in advance.
+84ohms - If the ticking is coming from the motion of the lens (moving up and down), then the player is not finding focus lock. Most players are programmed to do 3 or 4 focus searches then abort if it hasn't been successful. If this is the case the focus servo needs to be checked. Problem could be as simple as a dirty lens. Other problems could be a bad connection between the transport cabling and the pcb or misadjusted servo pots (consider this possibility last). One other possibility is the ticking noise being caused by a sticking sled mechanism. When this happens the ticking will continue for a few seconds as the player tries to send the sled to its home position and the drive worm screw jumps threads because of the unresponsive sled. That is what produces the ticking in that instance. The fix is cleaning and relubricating the rails that the sled moves on. A very light application of a silicone containing oil, like Triflow should cure this problem. Good luck.
+84ohms - You first must make a positive determination of what is producing the ticking sound (lens motion or sled drive) as the two possibilities I cited require different repair approaches.
walek kook 1 secondo fa disassembling half mechanics for a single strap, mc intosh is not good...grrrrrr..... the display seems to originate from denon
@@12voltvids ironically it doesn't sound any better than any other cd player. Some people have more money than brains. I have a Macintosh cd player that I found at goodwill gave 5 bucks for it . I had to change the belt pain in the ass.
2 adverts 2 much sorry 12volt unsubing from channels that cuts videos into like TV. EEVblog has a video on start which is fine but mid vid I've got better things to do. I have dropped two other channels this week, all the best..Tom
@@westelaudio943 I use CDs still. My 200 disk changer is full and I am always playing it. I use digital files as well. I have a bunch of vinyls from way back but I haven't had my Thorens hooked up in months. It is just sitting there on the table disconnected. Will connect it some day when I feel like listening to records.
McIntosh belongs to a audiophile, can afford to buy a McIntosh, but is a cheapskate in terms of maintaining of a time consuming repair. Video is the proof of how much time you put into it, still people don't get. Surely he should get about charge $70-80
Premium CD players really are a waste of time when the transports are all the same generic Sony or Sanyo mech, and a dedicated DAC is both better and more flexible.
Omg...you are lazi....why you just do not dismantle that mecha and clean lens and lube a gears etc? Btw that tray just a pull out easy...that tray dont have any blocking sistem....
Because the cheap ass customer only paid me 30 bucks to change the belt then went and sold it for 1300.00 and had the balls to tell me what he got for it. Guess what happened to the rest of the equipment of his i had in for repair.
When I see "audiophile" stuff I always wonder how much snake oil it contains. This thing is built like a tank just to raise the selling price; and beside that, the CD transport is actually pretty cheap and flimsy. All that shielding's and anti-resonance treatments can benefit only the analogue section, the digital section is immune to all those problems. The user interface looks very poor too, just the basic functions available in the front panel, all identical buttons, one line VFD with no track info... This player is designed to look "cool" and very costly until you open the tray and realize your 30$ DVD player very likely has the same disc transport (and the same remote too judging from on-line pictures)
And here is another uneducated person that has bad hearing. The do sound better. Even playing highly compressed MP3 they sound better. It is all in the D/A conversion, and the filtering. More expensive CD players use better DACs. They do sound better and that is why people pay the money they do. There is no reason to slam a product just because YOU can't afford it. Those with the cash to burn like these fine toys, and if you have the money to afford one of these, then you have the money so invest in a good amp and speakers that will allow you to hear the sonic differences.
@@12voltvids I have heard a lot of so called high end audio equipment at equipment shows it sounds the same as the cheap stuff. and yes I can afford it but I choose to not spend money on snake oil.
@@catsbyondrepair Possibly you can't hear the difference, but I can certainly hear the difference between high end gear and cheap crap. Incidentally I don't own any "audiophool" equipment myself. I have a couple of tube based amps I built and a couple of pairs of really good speakers. There are differences. They are subtle but if you have good hearing, and know what to listen for you can hear the differences. I would not say my hearing is perfect. At my age my highs roll off above 16khz. I can still hear the horizontal sweep on old TVs and that is 15.745 KHz. I do have musician ears though. The sonic differences are mostly in the mid range for most of this stuff, but you know the saying. Get the mod range right and everything else just flows. Yes I agree that most of this stuff is over priced but the guys with all that extra cash don't seem to mind spending it. The worst crap I have seen is this Sonos garbage. Over priced and sounds like crap.
