I have commented on you videos a few times, they are all great. When I started as a carpenter in 1975, we would draw limes on the wall with one level and one plumb. All measurements would be taken from those limes. Just 4 or 5 years ago I decided to use an inexpensive Bosch laser level instead of drawing lines and all of that crap. What a huge difference it made in my life. Having a level line in "space" made taking some measurements so easy and I didn't need a helper.
@@BradshawJoinery You can teach an old dog new tricks. For years I thought a multi tool was a bunch of crap until I used one. Now I have both corded and cordless multi tools.
brilliant explanation. if you're watching this and thinking of getting a folding rule make sure you buy a white one, it shows the laser much better than black.
Haha Cheers Philip, glad it was appreciated, took me a whole day that edit LOL! I wanted to explain in the best way possible as just talking it through might be confusing
Hi Gavin, Ive not filmed the installation unfortunately time constraints took over. I ended up making the double doors and then scribing that into one side, then scribing the single door jamb In and glueing together in place (domino joint in the faceframe 👍
Great video Ollie 👍🏼 I survey pretty much exactly the same way and this is the perfect video for anyone wanting to learn how to accurately produce a built in for a given space. Well impressed with the £78 laser too! Look forward to the next video champ 🙌🏼
Always look forward to your teaching videos! Although I would say it’s more for the pro that’s what I am all game for but if the DIY’rs want to game in then I salute them!
Brilliant explanation of using a laser level at it’s best, been on the fence about buying one for doing some diy jobs, will be ordering one now, thanks again Ollie 🙂
Brilliant as usual Ollie 👍🏻 With regards to fitting a flat panel joinery product into anywhere basically, we always made it anywhere from panel thickness (18-22 mm whatever) smaller, both sides and that was a ‘scriber’ which I always liked and thought looked best inline with the plane of the face of the doors. That basically makes worrying about being exactly square when measuring completely redundant as you’ve got a tonne of wiggle room ( did that make sense) Laser is so handy eh? Having those dead accurate plumb/ level square ‘datum’ to work off 👍🏻 even for fitting a new sash in an existing frame that might be super old and a mile out of square, you can work out ‘the wonk’ to make it, so it all looks right to the eye and isn’t a ‘wedge’ where you’ve fitted a bigger ‘square’ one to the shape as 90 percent of them would 😜 My old laser got chucked a while back, ended up with a cracked lense in the soft cover?!? I’ll never know…? And old batteries that went bad in tool ( crusty) Been looking for a new one, don’t use them that much but great to have when you do!! Don’t wanna spend a mint/ but don’t want junk! Ordered! Got the original? ( first one you listed) decent discount too👍🏻 Cheers mate👍🏻
My major issues with lasers have been: Width of the laser beam when it hits walls or whatever. That line is too wide for accuracy Getting and keeping the laser itself perfectly level. If the laser itself is not perfectly level in both planes, the lines will exaggerate that inaccuracy I will admit that I have been using the cheaper lasers of the style you showed and dismissed. I have just bought the green laser you recommended from Amazon - delivery tomorrow as I have to start coving, picture rails, door casings and skirtings - all in oak - tomorrow; 14 doors plus 2 openings that don’t have doors. The issue with getting it and using it so quickly is that I don’t give myself any time to get to understand how the laser works; at my age, all technology takes much longer to absorb, understand and put into action than a “youngster” like Ollie who was brought up with tech all around. I still remember using the old mechanical calculator to do stocktaking; we couldn’t believe the first electronic calculator we saw (Sinclair?); so much smaller and easier. Now, that Sinclair is probably regarded as almost primeval.
you need a laser with a clean line, and work to the centre of the line. Very accurate. Self levelling pendulum is the same level until it rund out of adjustment at which point it flashes... Set the laser up 100mm or so away from your install and them measure back to it with a rule and the laser wont be in the way. Lol at the calculator, I still prefer a proper calculator to the phone.
Wow, just mulling over it. So the 1st level you use to mark the front of the face frame and measure left and right. The 2nd level is to mark height from line up and down? Think I got it. Great video. Love em
Yeah pretty much. 1st gives you the position to measure to, the laser in the mid of room pointing back is set square and can be measured to from all points. both at face frame location and back of carcass. guaranteeing itll fit!
Great video mate, really interesting to see how you carry out your measuring up. Also completely agree with the huepar levels. I’ve done a fair bit of work with them now and can’t fault there products. Looking forward to seeing the follow up video to this one !
Great video Oliver. Looking forward to you showing how you use Google sketch up as I'm just starting out doing a similar thing but no where near the quality you make.
Nice one Paul, be a good video for you matey. Its not really a tutorial, but you should be able to follow if you pay attention and see where i click etc...
Hi Oliver, thanks a lot for making this video. The explanation of how to use laser level to avoid surprises at the assembly stage was very meticulous, thanks! I have one question that maybe you or someone else can explain to me. At 11:43, you mention that the cabinet should be 4 mm larger than it would be based on separate measurements at the top and bottom heights. In that case, how are you going to fit the cabinet into the recess?
Thankyou, It will need to be scribed into place. so set the frame level (at and angle as it wont fit in) then scribe one side in, and then the other... it ensures the frame will meet the wall everywhere
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you for your response. I am having a difficulty in picturing this in my head... If you scribe out part of the wall at a certain level on the left and right, you would be able bring the cabinet inside, I get the idea. However in this scenario, this would mean that the left side of the cabinet's body will be partially recessed into the wall. As a result, the front part of the 18mm body will not be entirely visible from the front. I'm assuming that you will carve out the entire wall on the right, and by first positioning the left part of the cabinet body, you will then insert the right part. Is that correct?
@@M4NC0L scribe the frame in as just a face frame, then attach to the cabinets once it's scribed I don't know how else to explain it, I will show it in a video many moons from now 😂👍
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haha, The guy i was measuring for is someone i work with and his 7's look like ones (1's) so i asked him to make the 7's clear this time (jokingly) so he made them very clear as he wrote down my measurments lol
Yeah, they didnt have many and wanted me to promote a different laser because of that fact, but i think this one is the one to have hence recomending it anyway.
Not overthinking, it does indeed, its the same as turning the horizontal line on the 1st laser on, but makes measuring the space much more practical because the laser is now positioned out of the way and more central. Thankyou (im assuming your name is norm but may be way off the mark)
Hi Jim, this is easier as a pinch stick isnt referencing from a level playing field, only to an opposing surface. Once the technique is dialled in i can measure pretty quickly a room on first visit and not have to go back to take measurments to make the item.
EDIT - OK so ignore my following original comments ... this has made me think and feeling like this could and should 'up my game' thanks :) Dude seriously - far too OCD - However I have to say whenever I pull a laser level out and say 'proper drawings' will be part of the quote ... I usually get the job... and that's half the work of any business. Getting the work. Helpful advice for some - but you really need to know how to allow for tolerances and check with a decent straight 'bubble level'. Thanks for the tips though they will. be helpful occasionally :)
Cheer Robert, Nowt OCD about it. I can measure up a room like that in half hour, and make whatever i want and know itll fit everytime, and also know when i come to install, exactly what to do and where. The half hour spent "messing about with lasers" is saved tenfold sometimes. Give it a try, youll get quicker with time and then never go back.
Still? It worked for me when I tried earlier 🤦 It only makes it about £10 cheaper. I'd buy one while there is still stock if I'm honest. They said there arent loads!
Has it? On amazon yes, but on their website with discount code its under£100. I paid £1000 for the hilti, canny really complain. If your gonna get one, id do so asap, as there are very few left and long wait for new shipments
I agree, and have used a water level before, but it's no good for the vertical measuring, it's also slow and doesn't give you an infinite reference to work from. The laser really is unbeatable for this job.
