Mechanical Advance in a Bosch Distributor / How to Adjust the Timing Curve | Tech Tip 26 

Need to know how to replace your distributors condenser and correctly gap breaker points? Check out my video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--MFRgFKmHUo.html

Sneaky trick - most battery drills have 3 speeds, somewhere around 500, 1000-1200, 1500-2000 rpms. The distributor runs at half engine speed so that equates to 1000, 2400, and 4000 engine rpms, so the initial tuning can be done on the bench. It won't be perfect, but at least it will give some visual cues for the ballpark starting point. Sneaky trick number 2, the drill can also be used to give a rough speedo calibration as well.

This is the first time I’ve every seen instruction on adjusting mechanical advance curve! Well done! I have a little vintage Jeep group here in California and I’m recommending your videos to the group! Thanks

You're a lifesaver thanks

Doe’s the mechanical advance centrifugal work when you change the points to a electronic spark system like lumention?

Gud day I'm having difficulty getting my dellortos carb 40s dhla balanced

Where did you find the springs and nylon bushings for your mallory distributor?????

To determine the mechanical advance total when bending the weight limit stops place the rotor button on and use a half moon degree protractor from kids geometry kit and hold it over the rotor button to see how many degrees the rotor button turns when spreading the weights by finger. For Lpg vehicles around 7 degrees is fine which is 14 degrees on the crank.

Hi, I have a 1972 MK1 Capri with the 3.0 Essex engine. My distributor looks like it’s come from a Sierra as it has a red cap, no vacuum advance and is electronic with an ignition module fixed to my inner wing. My question is the Weber DGAS carburettor vacuum is blanked off as the distributor has no vacuum advance to run a hose to. Ignition timing is set to 10° btdc. Presumably the Bosch distributor has mechanical advance so is it ok to drive a car that originally had a vacuum advance distributor that’s now had a Sierra distributor and ignition module or should I purchase a new distributor with vacuum advance so I can re connect it to the carburettor? The car is standard apart for the ignition changes which presumably was done during its time in South Africa. Thanks Paul

Hi bud, on the subject of state of tune, what is your set up. I’m considering now changing my mechanical advance, I need to know firstly my baseline but I’ve got a 2.0 pinto sohc like yours with a kent fr32 cam, 45mm Weber’s and a matched inlet and head, ported but standard valves. Would my inhibition time and advance be similar to yours?

Hi mate can you remember approximately how much you bent the stops inwards to reduce 10 degrees of movement, maybe 2-3mm?... I've marked my pulley and checked mine, it seems my total dizzy advance movement is 26 degrees - with it set to 8 at 1000rpm it's all in at 34 by 3000rpm.

I do have a thought in your situation. Why not just remove the vac-Advance from the distributor entirely? Just make a simple cover over the opening and and screws over the D-body. Cheers

Easier way to adjust it it all is do the rate first with springs, then pull the dissy out and through the window aperture you can tweak the limit posts with a screwdriver. Plus there is a point set for a Holden XU1 in Australia, these are drop in with a heavier spring allowing clean reving up to 7000rpm. Welding or grinding the tabs on the vacuum advance arm will allow adjusting of the max vacuum advance.

If you want to keep the vacuum advance, how do you work out the maximum amount of advance it adds? Is it just a case of trawling the web for the original spec sheets?

Never thought of this be fixing motors for 50 years , do know old Ford distributor gives more advance than Bosch distributor going to try on Daimler v8

THANK YOU> The clearest explanation I have seen. Much appreciated.

Is there a particular reason you've kept with the points and condenser system as opposed to electronic ignition? I'm now changing mine for an electronic pick up for reliability

Greetings from Brazil. I've got an '86 Chevette which has been converted from ethanol to gasoline, so the compression ratio will be higher and I'll be needing to adjust the timing curve. Your video helped me a lot, so thank you very much. Cheers, mate!

What if you have an electronic distributor. How does that work to advance the timing?

20' advance, 30' total???

Technically, if you want to accutaly disable the Vacuum advance air pressure, you would not seal off one side of the timing diaphragm with a sealed hose BECAUSE doing that actually CREATES a Barometer controlling your timing based against the sealed gasses. #Logic

Super Video! Well done and relevant information for everyone. I have to say the Capri has the coolest Fan Shroud / "Work Tray" ever! I must make one for my 1968 Ford. *Greetings from across the pond in the USA.

Really nice, what was your final setup? Degrees of Initial advance? and how many degrees the mechanical advance gives?

you make things look a bit easier. . today for a man to keep up with distributors must be grandpa at least..!!!!

Does all this apply to the electronic ignition as fitted to the pinto Sierra

Very helpful. Good video . Many thanks !

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waoooo so technical ❤️ im gona subscribe 🙏

can't seem to get the dave andrews article up can you help?

Is that a F91W clock mate? ;)

Thank you for doing these videos. Huge help!!

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long awaited video amazing machine!!

Videos are great 👍 keep at it

Great video very well explained

Nice one mate, very well explained 👍

Got mine running the other day so will get a video up when its not raining 👍

Great help matie

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Do you not have hot start problems with so much advance?