Nice video and nicely done. A couple of additions - when dropping the anchor if you stop before you start to drop the anchor then you risk being blow out of position before you have the anchor down. Alternatively, pre drop some chain ie if you where in 10m of water then pre drop 8m. Just means you only have 2m to drop before it’s on the bottom and you can be reversing towards your berth like this so that you maintain steerage. The other suggestion, would be one you have your stern line on then you can ease these a motor away from the dock, you can then lift some chain with less load on the windlass and then motor back against the anchor getting it taught whilst tightening your stern lines. When solo I follow exactly the same process you presented with the above additions. The only difference is that when I reach the dock I leave the engine in reverse to hold the boat in place against the anchor, then I can safely step ashore with the line. When doing this I will stop a boat length out and pull back against the anchor to ensure I have good holding.
I’ve never done this, but I think you forgot to tighten the anchor chain after going forward and pulling on the stern line. Last thing you said about the chain was that it was loose.. if you leave it like that the bow will drift again as soon as you stop motoring.
You are right, Gabriel should have spent more time on this point, although he does talk about what to do if you are too slow to retrieve the chain. We apologise for it
Excellent video. Please advice: Recently I docked with anchor probably a little to close (sideways) to the anchor of my neighbour, and the crosswind was pushing as against his yacht. Nonetheless, docking went smoothly, hulls were paralell without touching themselves - but at undocking we eased windward stern line, and immediately became glued to the hull of our neighbour. Finally, we were able to "slide out", but what could be done to properly manage this situation? Best regards, L.
Solution 1) In this case, we hold the leeward line and give a bit of power. The boat will move all the way to windward. At this point we let go of the line and motor out of the berth. When we are outside, we raise the anchor. Solution 2) If you can lean on your neighbour's boat, another way out is to move the line from windward to downwind - the line is attached to the windward bollard, but to the leeward cleat. Start the engine at this point. The boat will move all the way to windward, away from the leeward boat. When this is done, give a bit of power and get out. Once outside, pull up the anchor. This is the way we work and it usually works, but as you know, there is never just one way at sea.
The tension of the anchor chain depends on the mooring lines. The lines do not need to be very taut, the boat should be able to move back and forth a little.
I often use this way of mooring, but I didn't know the trick of the windward line. Well done. On your youtube channel, I find many videos in Italian and a few in English. Can you tell me which video you realize in English? Thank you
We do an Italian and English version for all the video lessons, the sea trials and the sailing directions video. For these, we do a Spanish and Portuguese version too.
Another excellent video. Grazie mille! I have two clarifying questions if you don't mind. 1. I watched the same video in Italian with Maurizio's commentary too. In that version, you guys tied the port side first. Does that mean that the wind shifted between the Italian video and this one? I'm guessing they were recorded on the same day. 2. When Simona revs the throttle forward to straighten the boat, does it matter which way the rudder should point? Also, how much slack should the line have for this?
1) Yes, we recorded on the same day, but you have to take into account that in the afternoon the wind comes from the opposite direction to the morning. 2) The wheel must face the quay. The line must not be too short, as this would prevent the boat from moving, but it must not allow the boat moving forward to bump into the boat moored in front of us.
Depend. If in the port there are waves, then you will use it. Otherwise, it is not necessary. In most of the ports, it is not necessary. In someone, it is, and it is very important to have it.
@@solovelanet Could you make this more clear, please? In the video you see how you tighten windward stern line but do you tighten also the anchor chain afterwards?
the med- mooring by using the anchor looks a little more difficult than the version with lazy-/ mooringline at the bow. In my experience the version with mooringline is more and more used in the med. And if the harbour or marina has mooringlines installed you should use them. The reason for this are in my opinion the many problems with tangled anchors and anchor-chains. But the medmooring with anchor has also its advantages: 1.)the anchor at the bow when dropped and the chain gives the bow some guidance when docking backwards, especially in crosswinds. 2.)you don't have the risk of having the lazy-line of the bow- mooringline in your rotating propeller Finally I would recommend as much anchor- chain as possible, especially in windy or even stormy conditions. .
@@solovelanet One idea if you are single-handed is to have the anchor windlass on a remote control, and of course if you have a bow thruster that would be put onto the same controller.
