Hello, I just want to say a big thank you for doing these videos! I live in Regina Saskatchewan Canada and I have a 1989 300E with similar problems. I'm at about 178000miles. Please keep sharing your videos with your beautiful cars! Thank you!
At 2:13, you had a good spray. It sprays briefly on first crank, and shouldn't stay on. When engine is working correctly, at first crank when engine is cold, the CSV is activated to spray a small amount of gas into the head and then the CSV closes quickly after that and it never stays on.
hi RR, you mentioned the problem only occurred after replacing the fuel pump. in my case, it happened after I replaced the thermostat. thx for the great video
this cold injector is designed to work at very low temperature a few celsius degres below zero, and also it has to do a very short shot of gasoline ( 1 second) when you crank the engine as you can see at 2:13 of video .your 7th injector was just fine .
This video was very helpful. It helped me to test the voltage at my CSV plug and see I wasn’t getting any. Rather than hacking into the wires to add a ground, I did something different. I made sure the temp sensors had good contact. Then with the four pin plug at the back of my engine head, I noticed it could be plugged in any of four possible ways. I rotated my plug 90 degrees and started getting 12v at the CSV plug. I still only get a short shot of fuel even though the CSV seems to continue to get 12 V. I noticed that the voltage does drop while cranking. So I wonder if maybe the drop in voltage allows the CSV to close. Another possible problem I have is that my fuel pressure is too low. A fuel system / control pressure test will be next... and in my case also testing the spark which I think could also be my issue.
Good day. Did you manage to resolve the problem by finding a good earth for the cold start valve. I have exactly the same problem. When the engine is cold, no fuel comes out the cold start valve. However, when connecting it directly to the battery, it works! The coolant temperature sensor seems to be working. The resistance at cold is 2.5 k ohms and when warm it drops to 300 ohms.
Great video !! Will you be able to do one on the Fuel Accumulator Me and a few owners are not sure when we should replace it and also how to test it for functionality ...
I am having the exact same issue with my 1991 300SEL, I looked for the brown wire in the loom but my car has three browns in the large loom that runs under the air filter housing. Any idea what I should be looking for on a w126?
Your economy gauge should stay fully left at idle, otherwise you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Choke is forced ON about 10sec then it gets information from sensors.
Your a life saver, I hadn't realized the OVP relay was part of the circuit. I was chasing my tail until I watched this video. If I may ask what service manual is that in the video?
hi...had precisely the same problem and tried to change the ground back to where it failed but it looks like it goes to the computer and I don't feel like pulling that connector off because I might have to put it back on after 20 years of it being where it's at so I think I'm going to do what you did and bypassed the ground
Hello to you NTC sensor 4 pin and Cold start valve have to do with the fact that every time you fire the engine rpm rises irrelevant whether cold or warm engine?
Hi, Your right, I just watched the video, been a long time, I should have removed the cold start valve & put it over a container to prove hat it was a bad negative connection. Or a least put a multimeter on the plug. I could tell by the start that my problem was fixed & has been ever since. Sorry about that, Paul
I have an 89 W124 as well. Thing is, it starts perfectly cold. But when it warms up, it starts to kinda stall ad eventually cut off. Sometimes it doesn't stall at all but when I get to the first traffic light, it completely shuts off. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there. Nice video! I´m having issues with my cold start in my 1990 MB 190e 2.5-16. My question, if you can help me, is where to get the schematics. Thanks a lot!
I noticed your oil pressure gauge needle was right up , does it drop later , my pressure gauge also is maxed out , will check the sender unit M110 motor
Hi, With all the Merc's that I have had the pressure gauge needle is always right up while driving and drops to about a quarter when idling, on a cold start it will also be right up till it warms up a bit. Cheers, Paul.
in the winter my car stalls several times but when it's warm it starts fine. No problem in summer either. Can this be caused by the cold start valve as well?
One thing I want to make perfectly clear. It is NOT a "valve"!! It IS a cold start INJECTOR!! THIS IS WRITTEN IN THE MERCEDES REPAIR MANUALS from GERMANY!!!! I HAVE one such book.
@@tonyreyes9969 there is a very big difference between a valve and an injector. A valve switches on and off. An injector is part of a fuel system. I prefer proper terminology, not bullshit terminology.
hi mate, I own a 1988 Mercedes Benz 300e and was just wondering if u had an idea why it cuts out after starting. so I'll turn the key and the car will rev up then cut out again...I think it just could be the fuel pump or lines but I don't really want to touch anything in the car until I have an idea on what it could be! thanks
Hi, Jim The coolant temp sensor is the single most important sensor for determining air-fuel mixture at startup and during warmup, it's the one right at the rear of the engine, might be worth a look. These are the causes of cold start issues, cold start valve fuel pump not running air flow sensor plate rest position incorrect fuel pressure incorrect coolant temp sensor or wiring faulty Good luck, Paul.
My 300ce working perfectly till is cold, when temparature start to raise he start to make problems, like the electric not ok...like plug, or plug cable..mecanik tell me crankshaft sensor, but no luck change today and same problem...pls help..
