Really impressive video. Former Master Tech with Mercedes Benz. I absolutely am impressed with the labs scope implementation and your ability to confirm and get to the root cause. Tig weld makes great sense. I happened to consider brazing. Since brazing might be more accessible than Tig for some maybe you can try it sometime. I happen to own one of these cars with this issue. 😊 won’t be this way for long.
Brilliant video, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us SHREWD DTech Engineering Sadel From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 06:39am Good Morning 🙏 🌄
Every year, 100,000 Mercedes owners are blind-sided with a $4-$5000 repair and swear off Mercedes forever. It is hard to imagine how many more lifelong Mercedes fans there would be if MB simply spot-welded the triggers on 2 million sets of camshafts every year. What's worse is the fact that they are well-aware of this persistent problem and would rather save $2 per car while setting the owner up for a complete screw-job.
neat seeing the scope and all. but a scan tool like an autel can just bring up the live readings and you will see which cam is out. you can just tap them in to place to get the engine light off and the engine running good again. The cause of this is failed intake cam gear (usually bank 1) that rattles due to internal failure and causes it to "hammer" the cam sensor reluctor wheel out of position. eventually, it will happen again until you replace that gear.
i must say thank you, M276 engine cam magnets out of sinc, sogkad to see someone tig tack button holds to secure the cam triggers in place, yes golden arm stainless welder myself but not the world class mechanic you are, thanks
Very well explained, I have work on some of those and knowing which one is reading incorrectly you might have access to the pulse plate through the sensor hole and can squeeze a screwdriver in the right position then twist it and move the plate until the code is gone. It is literally a 10 min job.
@@omarsa2020 The cam plate can move separately from the camshaft. He is saying you can move the plate with a flathead screw driver with the cam sensor removed. It may move out of range again through, not permanent fix
Trying to find itself is called CAM SPACE, a term used by BERNIE THOMPSON, I am surprised that you did not also monitor injection, it might have been possible to see IF injection was hunting for the correct time prior to finding itself in the correct Cam Space and then allowing the engine to finally start. Thank you for all your videos/case studies, very informative diagnostics.
To advanced technicians it’s common knowledge that Ignition timing follows crankshaft position and fuel timing follow Camshaft position. When implausible results are found fuel management randomly fires injectors until it fires off substitution of Camshaft Data is applied and ran. So extended crank then running fine is pretty obvious to the skilled professional technicians. This goes back to SFI Fuel Injection inception. Adding in fuel injection signals would be moot as they are randomly firing outside of normal engine management.
I’m working on a 2017 Benz with a 276 turbo. Had an intake cam timing code bank one. The cam sprocket was chattering when I rolled the engine over (rattle on start.) got a new cam sprocket, I’m setting the timing and it looks like the wheel slipped on the cam about 10-15 degrees. Laxer etch on plate to cam is off. Yellow links on chain are off the corresponding amount. (Link to laxer etch on gear, off 3 teeth) I’m going to try to bang it back into place, then maybe weld it. Let’s see how it goes What a stupid design. But brilliant work bud.
When cranking I leave them connected, they won't come into play when just cranking and it lets me see the base timing alignment of the chain when just in its natural installed position. Afterwards I'll do start and run at idle and leave them connected still at that point to see any vvt adjustments if any.
Superb explanation on this issue, Sadel. I’m curious if you are seeing these repeating Mercedes issues within a certain mileage range on these engines? For example, are these happening around 120,000 miles or are you seeing them sooner?
I have two GLK-350s with the M276 engine. My 2013 has 217,000 miles and I have never had an issue with the timing or codes. My 2014 has had this issue since 100k miles. We have driven the 2014 well over 100k miles with this issue and I am in the middle of tearing it apart now and putting in a new Right Intake adjuster and will be resetting the tone ring on the cam and tacking it with my TIG machine... So it is a crap shoot IMO.
Excellent work. Thank you. Just one question. Is there a video on how to setup that capture? I have XTool D8 scanner but not sure it would be able to do the capture that you are showing.
Great job bro. I have a 2011 cl550. The first gen m278. I need your help. Where are you located. My car rattles on start up. But runs fine. I run a scan it gives no trouble codes. I want to catch it before it gets worse. Plz i need ur help. I live in PA.
I think I've had it for 2 years now and I absolutely love it! For someone like me it lets me test that much more per capture which helps cut down time because of how much I test. I won't ever go down to a 4 channel again.
spots on chains will not return to the starting point all the time once spun, it takes several revolutions to return to the same starting point. I am not sure of your question but hope that helps
Thanks for responding to me. I am trying to fix my timing without taking the timing cover off. I did line up the tone wheel and cam adjuster laser mark at 40 degree tdc, and the timing chain is not at the starting point with yellow mark. Will that be enough?
does this apply to a 2019 c43 amg? i have a 2014 E 550 (m278) that I had to fix now im thinking of either buying a 2019 c43 or c300? what do you recommend?
it is very possible that those other engines use a similar style and type of trigger wheel on the camshafts so it's possible that those others might have the same issue at some point if do at all.
@DTEAuto Damn that's annoying I. Trying to avoid thst and buy a reliable benz but I can't seem to find that with the new engines, I think the last truly reliable engine was the m113
I didn't end up completely removing it, I just heated it up with a torch and tapped on it lightly with a screwdriver and small hammer to get it clocked correctly. It didn't take much force.
it wasn't that hard actually, I just heated up the wheel with small torch than used a small punch and tapped it, to my surprised it moved pretty effortlessly to the point I had overshot the target point I was going for. Also keep in mind that it can move laterally, so I also had to tap on the back and get it perpendicular again.
@@DTEAutowe can imagine the amount of camshaft banging it took to move the tone-wheel ahead from good to bad - It's the VVT rattle that bangs intake camshafts ie. nothing interacts mechanically with tone-wheel. Camshaft act as a powerful "impact driver".
bank1 is always the bank where cyl.1 is located. Some Japanese straight 4Cyl. engines do split the 4Cyls in TWO BANKS to track two upstream Lambda sensors. 🙂