Excellent video. The positioning of the regulator relative to the motor in the middle of the arc is great advice. The order of fitting 1) the window bottom slider 2) the mounting of the three regulator bolts to the door 3) electrical connection 4) bottom window bolt and finally 5) the fitting of slider inside the door panel makes this awkward job so much easier. I have had to replace at least three regulators on my cars (one of mine broke the spot welds as yours had done) and it has always been a job that I hated doing but your video shows how it should be done without all the hassle. Many thanks
+1. .. A thoughtful W124 window regulator tutorial. .. When the time came to replace w124 coupe's regulator I knew where to turn. .. A change had been made with the later series W124 (coupe) .. The 3 pop-rivets securing the coupe's window regulator was a bit of a surprise. .. Glad to have ordered the correct "steel -sized" MB rivets. .. Couldn't have been a success without your assist!
Unbeknownst to this man, he and I developed an intense, three-day relationship, and for that I am grateful. I've also been saying "...viggle the vindow..." because those are the little tips and tricks that make this guy a rockstar.
My regulator had worn a couple of teeth away and was clunking when at the upper limit of the window's travel. I removed the regulator and had some weld filled into where the missing teeth used to be. Then made a template out of an old credit card, using a good section of teeth as a guide. I then marked the position of the teeth into the welded area and hacksawed the triangle shapes into the weld. This way I keep the original factory regulator and avoid the cheaply made copies. Also far cheaper than a genuine replacement from MB.
looks durable. Just watching because I don't have problems with it. The back ones are a different story. I change both in the back in my old '98 E 320 and it looks like they had already been replaced before.
@@dieselmercedes7507 I am Soliman from Morocco. I love mechanics, especially Mercedes mechanics. I would like to work with you because I liked your way of work.
I have this exact car and my drivers window just stopped working. How do I know if it's the regulator or the motor that needs replacing? The switches are good - and there is no noise. Thanks. Great video!
I have a 1990 Mercedes 300E (Base) 3.0. My rear driver side window regulator cable came lose upon winding up the window. I removed the regulator, saw that the end of the cable snapped out from a tiny / small clamp that gave out. What stops the motor when the window reaches to the top or bottom? Is there a resistor or capacitor that stops the motor? I replaced the regulator. But want to know if there is another component like a switch, resistor, capicitor that has to be replaced before installing the new regulator?
On the window slides there appears to be a plastic piece to the rear of the rear slide that seems to follow a metal piece going from the upper to lower direction of the window travel. How is that piece installed?
The part that broke on mine is the white plastic part that becomes visible in the opening at 3:33 as you move the window down. It is just below the green colored tape on the cables in the upper left part of your video. How do I replace just that part? It is l-shaped.
It's this part here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088HUBC4/ It slides into the horizontal rail as well onto the vertical rail. You have to position the window rather far down in the door to have it slide on. I would put it in the horizontal rail first and then slide it into the vertical rail. You can see it in the vertical rail in this video at the 4:41 mark: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-23mn2ZNAQF8.html
Diesel Mercedes, I noticed you didn't put any rivets back in.....is it necessary to get new rivets and put them on once you're done or can you just tighten the bolts and then put the side door panel on? Great video!
Hello i have this problem with my se 300 and i almost finished it ,but there was a problem when i slide the window it does not go straight it leans when i raise it. I dont know whats the problem. I would apperciate your help thanks.
hello, cool .. you know how we test the motor direct with battery ? they are 2 wires green and black. green go to battery (+). the negatif of battery go to ground or to black wire ? nice for any info cheers ;)
Great guy , wish he lived near me .sorry to sound stupid . But how can I know it is a problem of the motor. I hit a dear, and can not close my driver window now. When I played with the fuses, i did not notice any problem, but was able to pull it back up, And down again and there it stayed. now it just does not feel like it´s connected to the button.
Hello I'm sorry to weak language (I use Google Translate) I have a question window regulator works and spins gear only, but do not move the window You can repaired or is it to be changed I have a Mercedes w124 e300 1990
For those of you out there that see this comment, I posted a long video on how to remove the W124 dash and how to replace the vacuum actuator pods for the climate control. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0SU6CFb0W7s.html Just trying to spread the word. Note that there are only 2 PN's left of the 6 PN's that are available from Mercedes or aftermarket. On the dual diaphgram pods you can buy one of the two pods that are available, remove their arms (white plastic just snaps it on), and you can take off the old arm from the old pod and transfer it to the new pod. NOTE: This trick only works on the dual diaphgram pods. Last resort you can get just the rubber diaphgram inside the pod that you can replace at a place called Performance Analysis in Tennessee, although you can't order on their website. You have to call them. Their part numbers for the two different diaphgrams are 2010 and 2020. On the W124 and W126, you can use one of their diaphgrams on the "center" pod, which is a single diaphragm. They are inexpensive, not sure how long they will be in business from the conversation I had with them. . Get a bunch and store them the rest of your life!
Good Job! But...why to change the regulator,????Old one seemed fine, only the plastic parts go bad, and you can change those?? Just wondering????/ Otherwise, well done, youtheman =)
Hi friend, you could tell me how the motor connection is going, I did everything as you describe it, but when the engine is switched on, the motor does not work on the right side either You think it's a fuse or I made a short circuit
Any luck? If not, it could be the switch. Try putting the switch from the good side on the bad side. If that fixes it, get some switch cleaner spray into the faulty switch, they can get dirty/corroded inside, especially if not used much.
There is a trick though....we see the left arm being put in place on the bottom of the window....but not the right one and that one Is another storie and i believe its got to be bolted....thats a bitch cause no space. Any advice.???? Now i got this window regulator of a 1987 300tdt....is it the same than a 1987 300td...???? Thanks
