Thanks for giving me the confidence to change my bearings. Had a heck of a time trying to get the races out, do you have a tool bench with a vice or something? Thanks also for the tip about making sure you had the rear seal.....sure enough the "bearing kit" I got didn't have one either. Keep up the good work!
Hey I'm a little confused about two things. when you said that to remove the races you tap the rear race from the front and to remove the front race you tap it from the back, but aren't they supposed to be very close to each other. also did you put grease on the spindle, because I thought that spindle should have no grease the inner wall of the bearing should stay still wile the out wall would rotate with the wheel. I'm not shore if I made my self understandable English is my second lenguage
Thanks so much for this video. I have been looking for a week and finally came across this. I am going to replace my 96 C280 bearings (both sides) and I actually ordered a kit that included new dust caps and bearing seals. Any suggestions on how to remove the old races?? I know you mentioned hammering the front fronmm the back and the back from the front. Any tricks there?? Thanks again for sharing. Very informative.
I used a breaker bar and it came off too it might have been a little harder but it worked. after that the only hard time that i had was removing the races, it took me some time
Thank you for the reply, I have one more question do you put any grease on the lock not "thing that you unscrewed on 4:12) or the threads. Is that holding the wheel from getting loose. I'm asking a lot of questions but I want to make I'm prepared for this job. Also thank you for all the videos, I replaced all my shocks by following your directions it was very easy.
Great info. I plan to replace bearings and the races on C240. You did not provide any visuals or tell how you tapped out the races. Are there any special tools that can be used to make the job of replacing the races less of "a pain in the butt"?
+Kielyn B not really... It's not as bad as I made it sound..I have a spinal chord injury that makes it harder for me to hammer on things, but a good cold chisel is all that is needed.. and a good heavy hammer. I intend to revideo this process when I change bearings again.. I've gotten a little better over the years at explaining and setting the camera up ( I really need to work on getting better camera angles or get some one else to hold the camera, but I rarely have time to plan it out)
Thanks for a great video. I'm doing mine right now - do I take it that there ought to be hardly any play at all in the bearings once you have the wheel back on and doing the top - bottom shake test? Many thanks
I took it to a friend who "hates" working on Mercedes but we figured out the problem, the caliper piston was dirty, we sanded it off and re-greased it and so far no problem, the light is still on however but the ABS works, so does it need to be reset or something? Thanks for the reply and advice.
One question if you get some time to check. Could you see if you have anywhere the procedure fro removing the exhaust on the 2000 w202? One side has a flange near the transmission. The other side disappears up next to the engine and I can't spot the flange.
Hey I wonder if you can help, I have a 190e and for some reason the left side front brake calliper is pressing hard against the rotor, I have checked the pads and they seem fine but also I noticed the ABS light inside the car came on... Any ideas what this could be? Someone mentioned it could be wheel bearing fault causing the problem but I have no idea... BTW thanks for the tutorial, I guess I might need it sooner or later.
Hey thank you for all that you do with your videos. I have a question. I notice you have the middle lining of the car. I don't really know what it's called but I am trying to find somewhere I can buy it. It's the part right below the grill and headlights and it goes around the entire car. Any help on this would be so helpful on top of what you already do.
This is the w202 system ? It s easier then a normal car No major bolt n things tight. I cannot see here .this is good news as I have a w202 c180 1995 Doesn t seem a heavy job compared to what it takes on other cars right ? The hub also comes off easy right ?
@@fupabox wow. And they say Mercedes is hard to work on.it just takes to do it carefully n delicate sometimes to work on it . Great engineering right ? I ll take good care of this car . It s a classic. It will break down long before new ones do
my allen key screw is stripped now because 4 people had it off and halfway apart and then didn’t wanna mess with it any further my bearing is so bad and seized but nobody will fix it 😓
hi thanks for the video it was very good.i change my front bearing ..i have one question i made a small mistake .. i mede a small scrach in your video you said that is not good .i allready fit the bearing and driving the car .whay yuo said that is not good what can happend
one more question. what did you use to remove the caliper bolts, im trying to remove them and they are very tight. I took the car for a rotor change last year so they only have been there for a year. I'm trying with a ratchet. Did you use a breaker bar?
You have to use a breaker bar or a striking wrench, or just hit a box end or combo wrench with a machinist's hammer. I paint a dot on the bolt heads to get them back to the same spot. That locktite they use from the factory is like blue concrete.
hi my friend I have small problem with my car and I hope you can help me with your knowledge. I have P 0256 cod which is injector pump fuel metering control B ,do u know what it is ,and how can I fix it my regards
Hi! I have a W202 C230 Kompressor from October 1995. I had a noise in the left front wheel that was due to a bad wheel bearing. I changed it but I continued to have the same noise. I thought it was due to the way I tightened the axle nut but no, that was not it. I don't know why this is happening. What can I say that could help you understand what is going on... I think that the inner bearing moves a lot. Could the supplier made a mistake and gave me the wrong bearings? I'm getting frustrated. I'm using a METZGER - WM 1070 Thanks
That should be the proper bearing for your car. . I have a few thoughts , some you may have checked already . The noise may be from the brake backing plate and not the bearing..just a thought.. If you lift the car and try to move the wheel back and forth by hand and it is moving too much , it is possible that the old bearing wore out the spindle , the hub may have a crack that doesn't allow the bearing to seat firmly .
@@fupabox Thanks. I will check all of that and keep you posted. Keep up with your good work. There aren't many videos about the W202 Mercedes on the web...
@@fupabox hey ! Thank you. I did it last night . I didnt see it right. The slope was part of the cover not connected to the shaft . That s why I was not making progress.
@@fupabox I took everything out . I have a problem . When I hammered the rings out there s some chipping there . On the hub . They are small but I'm not sure how it will play out . If I hammer the new bearings in , it will maybe bend n level.the surface Dont want to use sandpaper n the chisels r too big for it I'm.not sure what to.do. Second one I was more careful. But if I was to.tap it perfectly carefull it would have taken hours n hours. I.domt think it s possible to take it out clean only with screwdriver n hammer. Will it be alright if I fit in the new barings on it ? With these chips ? Or how to grind them ? Thank you btw
Do you have any other advice for setting the retainer nut? Not sure what was going on at the end with the wheel on... I've never done this kind of wheel bearing before
basically, once the bearings are in and greased ,put the retaining nut on and tighten it while spinning the wheel...not too tight, just keep slowly tightening and spinning...once the retainer nut is tight enough to be hindering the wheel from spinning ..stop tightening and spin the wheel a few more times to seat the bearing properly...now slowly loosen it a tiny tiny bit at a time...every time you loosen it a bit grab the rotor at 6 and nine o'clock positions and wiggle back and forth...the perfect adjustment is when the rotor will spin freely, but there is no side to side play when wiggling the rotor...then tighten the pinch bolt...
The Stiver exactly..if you can bolt on a steel wheel or the spare while you are tightening it and checking for play,it makes it easier to feel when you have it right...you can't really reach the hub nut to adjust it with an alloy wheel on,but a steel one is easy
when you forgot the seal for the inner bearing and you had to run to the dealership what exactly did you tell them that you needed? because my dealership cant seem to find a "back inner bearing seal" :/
Thanks for taking the time on the video. Everyone FYI find another video on how to do this. This guy is a hack, if your going to take the time to do this do it right. This was a half ass job. You need to clean everything up and use new grease.
+Troy Huntley Old grease was green, so unless Fupabox can magically change grease from green to red, he used new grease... and you call his work half ass?
