Very similar to mine off a 1990 Ebbtide with the Yamaha L4 3.0. I did a recent rebuild with a "marine" kit and I replaced the inlet valve (under the float) only to find that the replacement was considerably shorter than the original and the float couldn't close it. Had to do a little bending of the float arm to get everything to work properly. The Mercruiser models only have one idle screw where these have two. I don't have the corrosion problem because my boat is in freshwater. Thanks for the video
VERY very GOOD VIDEO I love his style been there done that and all true. I have built a few the SAME EXACT WAY he speak the truth .. No over kill witht his guy it shows he know his stuff
So I gave it a shot and just rebuilt my 2 barrel on a Mercruiser 170 .... I could swear there was a check ball under the venturi ... you mentioned it when showing the build up but didn't show which hole it was in. It only shows a check ball under the accelerator pump on the diagram with the rebuild kit but doesn't show another one in the exploded parts view. Please help me and tell me where that check ball goes ... i don't remember and don't understand why it doesn't show it on the diagram. Is it optional ? Thanks
apologies not quite yet - one ball goes down the the hole with the slot across the top, on some models there is a second ball underneath the rubber plunger, but only if there is a cavity for a ball down there..
What is the exact make and model of this boat? I have to know because I have this EXACT model however, it will not be able to be insured without this info, I've looked everywhere and its title is mtz which means home build, yet all insurance needs the origional manufacturer, plus theres no way to trace before title, unable to contact origional owner, help!
How is the choke supposed to be set on this? I rebuilt one about a month ago. Everything works great, but it has been 90 degrees since. I'm not sure I have the choke set correctly since it is always open.
you loosen the 3 flat screws on the black plastic choke cover - it gets stuck so before u break the adjustment slot make sure its loose first - maybe pry on it LIGHTLY, once its loose, you can rotate it -watch the choke and set it full open for that heat, or 75% open.. dont forget to tighten the 3 flats and dont remove them, just loosen them.. easy to lose those metal tabs-
I have a 3.0 and it revs and starts fine out of water then in water it wont rev past 2.5k wont go over 10mph even in neutral it wont rev in water. Any ideas ?
just ordered a carb rebuild kit yesterday lol hopefully that will be our culprits. Only other issue I have now is overheating in neutral. Cools right down when in drive on the water.
they come in 2 sizes - so you would need a 2G kit - the only difference is the throttle bore size - rest is all the same. Some might have both kits. Look up using the number stamped on your *or measure the bore size and go from there).. they are 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" iirc..
