Great explanation of everything. Gave me some great things to check. I just got a 4.3LX that sat for 12 years without running and was able to run it this summer and surprisingly she runs pretty good except for Run On and bogs down when gunning it when pulling up a skier. ( Did do some work to it before taking it out.) I will be doing a carb rebuild this winter and check/adjust a few of the items you mentioned in the video.
Its not hard. People are just scared of carburetors today. back in the 60-70-80s we used to rebuild them all the time. If nothing else crack it open and spray out with carburetor cleaner then put it back together. Don't adjust anything unless you know what you are doing. Thanks for the comment and good luck!
Hey you may have got the issue fixed by now but it’s never a bad idea to check your carb adjustments.. mercarbs typically recommended doing so with a vacuum pump tester connected to eclxhaust manifold and a external tachometer connected to your distributors 1st plug in firing order. That way you can set idle and forward drive rpm appropriately all while achieving maximum vacuum. Again, I’m sure this is late but hope it helps for future reference sake
Yes I know the video sucked. I ditched the gopro and just use my phone now. Would like to redo the video but don't feel like take carb apart to do that.
what's does it mean to "Look Square"? great video but what does that mean, closed, close to closed. . . . do you mean the throttle plate being perfectly flat? Sorry for not following.
The transfer slot. When the butterflys are closed(idle) the only way for air to get through the carb is through this slot. It then goes through a "circuit" to the mixture screw. That controls the amount of fuel "sucked". That slot should be square NOT a rectangle. If its NOT a perfect square its a rectangle and your idle is to high and your mixture will not be set right to idle correctly. Its not just this carb its any I every rebuilt. My bronco was same way. Video on that one too. Thats how you set everything on a bench. If is set right at the bench to a perfect square when you put it on the boat everything is perfect and don't have to adjust anything. If its not a square and its a rectangle then to much air goes through making it "lean" and you have to adjust the mixture to richen it up.
Hello Cam, Great video. Maybe you can help me with a question. The accelerator pump linkage. I have to gun the engine to keep it from stalling after I shift into gear. If I want a smooth take off, do I move the linkage to the top hole or the bottom. It is in the middle hole now. Or is this a problem with throttle adjustment or shift lever adjustment. Your help will be appreciated. Thanks, John
I would first check your spark first and cap and rotor. I have seen a bad rotor button do just what you are describing. It is actually flooding the engine because it is missing. By going full throdle you are increasing the RPM and the miss is not as bad and clearing the the flood condition. The accelerator just squirts gas in the carb throat. You can visalize it. Remove backfire arrestor and have someone work the throadle. You should see a solid stream of gas squirt. if its broken or itermitate then it needs to be replaced. If its a solid stream of gas your pump is fine. You should not have to move that linkage unless the rod has been bent. The pump just squirts one squirt thats it. I need to know more. I would be looking more at idle and mixture screw if it dies when puting in gear. The accelerator pump doesn't kick in until above idle. If it idles fine then you barely put in gear and it dies I would be thinking spark because you just loaded the engine and it should drop 100 RPM. Raise your idle and see what it does. If it stays runing then after you raise idle by turn the idle screw. then you need to readjust your throttle cable. But at that point think what has changed???? How long since you changed your cap and rotor? I rebuilt a carb once and it turned out to be a $5 rotor button...
@@outdoorswithcam I did a tune up when working on it( see Restoring the bayliner series on my RU-vid channel" Digologist" Rotor, cap, plugs and wires are new. carb was rebuilt by a experienced mechanic. It doesn't miss and idles around 800-900 with the muffs. Could it be shifter related? seems i have to push it way forward to get it going. I will see about some videos on adjusting the carb. Maybe check the switch on the shifting mechanism at the engine. Just need to have a gradual take off in the water. Thanks for your help.
I had a question, on my 3.0 TKS the idle is adjusted (squared) but as soon as I give it throttle, it bogs down quite a bit for some seconds then the rpm’s shoot up. Any idea why it does that? Thanks
When you throttle forward the accelerator pump squirts gas into the throat of carb to give it a boost of gas until the venture affect can catch up and meter the proper amount of gas. To check the pump look down the carb while someone pushes the throttle forward. You should see and hear a constant unbroken stream of gas squirt. Next I would rule out cap and rotor. I had a bad rotor button do just as you describe and thought it was gas problem when it was electrical. Hard to define "bog down" is it two much gas or not enough? Some times you can go by the sound. Is it flooding or starving for gas.
Start with basics first. You must have air, fuel and spark. Most of the time its NOT the carb. Its spark. First replace cap and rotor then check spark. If you have a weak spark it can't burn all the gas and bogs down flooding it.
But also, depending how long your boat sat and if the fuel was treated can make a huge difference. Most often then not I see that owners have let moisture (water) condensate in to fuel line and that will also cause similar issue. Especially if no carb/choke adjustments have been made
Idk if you’re still responding to this but do you know what it could be if I put my engine in gear to start it and when I bring it back to neutral it waits a few seconds then sputters out?
When you mean in gear. Do you mean throdle forward for fast idle. Then bring back it dies. When you push throttle forward accerator pump sprays gas into carb. All my problems turned out to be rotor button. Won't idle but as long as you brought idle up it ran. Got video on here about it. Used spark tester to find it. Turned out to be electrical. Cap and $5 rotor. You got to have spark, fuel and air. Usually it's something simple.
@Stewart Poulnott it's in my boat repair Playlist. You need to check your spark. If you have a miss it will level out at higher rpm. You can see it with spark tester. What kind of carb? TKS? Is there a choke? Is it electric choke? Think gas, spark , air. It's one of those three. The only its air is choke or TKS. Spark is electrical. Cap or rotor.
WHen you first start a TKS carb the idle is controlled by the TKS solenoid. Just like a Idle control solenoid on a car. YOu will hear a whistle like sound when it first starts. Then as it warms up that sound goes away. You can't adjust that. Its running rough because its to rich. TKS stands for turn key start. Its suppose to start as soon as you turn the key.
