When I bought my boat it had the old valve in the glove compartment, so I think it’s been replaced. The damn thing needs to be replaced again it’s warms up then won’t idle.
Wondering if you could help me I have a MerCruiser 470 3.7L and it runs amazing until the engine gets around 165 to 200°- acts like the engine is starving for fuel and I have to throttle it up Way high just to get it started back and it still won’t idle I’ve been chasing around to see if it’s a vapor lock issue and the only way that could be (after my new set up with fuel lines/check valves/return line) is the carburetor getting heat sink but I still don’t really feel like that’s the issue I still have the cam driven mechanical pump is there anything that you’d recommend me doing the boat runs amazing it’s just until that temp range. I was out on the water and had to force feed it fuel out of a bottle straight down the carb to limp it back to the dock… very frustrating because I’m so stumped… i’ve seen some people put a 12 V fuel pump in line to keep it forcing fuel into the carburetor-what do you think?
I have a 2004 mercury cruiser 4.3 thunderbolt. I have the same problem. Cold starts is good. But engine hot it died o. Idle. So is it the same part that bad? Please let me know thanks
I've come to hate the TKS. I have had my carb rebuilt, and replaced this module. However my engine dies once the enrichment valve engages and closes off the enriched fuel/air. I troubleshot this motor for a whole summer and finally got it running good after replacing the spark plugs. Next summer, exact same problem again. Again new spark plugs, but no help.
Can you add voltage ( if so what voltage ) to see if the module is working? Or can I set for voltage at the connector, if so what voltage should I be seeing?
I've 3.0L. Equipped with fuel enrichment too. And I've same problem here too. It's starts fine, runs about 10 min or so. While its running, I can hear the whistle. My understanding, the whistle - its an extra air been sucked in to carburetor through that pin hole. ( when you remove the enrichment from the carburetor , there is a little pin hole on the side of the carburetor ) , so, that's where the extra air gets sucked in and gets mixed with the extra fuel ( extra fuel that gets through the enrichment valve spring ). Please correct me if I'm wrong. So, after 10 min, the engine warms up and that's where the enrichment valve kicks in. The enrichment valve starts shutting down, pushing the plastick valve towards to the brass tube, completely closing down that little spring inside the valve. Please correct me if I'm wrong. When the enrichment valve starts shutting down, the whistling slowly starts disappearing. And at the same time my engine rpm starts slowing down and the engine slowly stalls. I can start it again for 1 minute and then stalls again. And after that won't start until next morning or so. Can anyone identify my engine problem please. BTW, Have you tryd to dismantling the enrichment valve ? I did. And my understanding, it works like termostate valve , but oposite way. When I unscrewed the black plastic tubing ( where the two copper cables goes in ) the brass unit came out. I have dropped it into the hot boiling water and I could see the pin coming out of the brass unit. But I'm not sure is the pin coming whole way out? As you have mentioned on your video, your enrichment valve wasn't closing whole way down / closing not fully enough, leaving a little gap for the fuel to get in ( through the little spring ) to the carburetor and flooding it with fuel. Also, I have noticed ,where the two copper cables going in to the enrichment valve, you can adjust the distance between the little spring and brass tube by screwing it in or screwing it out. I have screwed in by 3 milimiters or so, but I have no time to test the engine eyt. It might be the case, but I had no time to test it out. Has anyone any ideas? I have spen few hundred euros , have changed fuel pump, water pump, hose, termostate and etc , before realise that all these parts were 100% working. Don't want to throw away another 300euros for new enrichment valve, unless someone comes with an answer to my problem, that the enrichment valve is definitely the problem and I need to replace it. Thanks in advance. Waiting for your replay.
Im late to comment, but have you figured out what is going on, I have the exact same problem, but the part is so expensive I dont want to buy one just to try out
@@bubrunner0 hello, exactly the same, cold engine starts perfect, enrichment valve started to close down in 5 min, then after about 10 min when the engine was warm enough the engine was stopped itself it looks like was cut of ignition. I tried to start it again but could do with almost full gas, then it works few minutes and stopped again and I couldn't start it at all. I tried and tried but with out any chance. I checked that fuel normally pumped into carburator when I pumped by acelerator. I checked wires with ignition spark and there was ok spark. So It too strange that the engine didn't want to start. Please help if you know 100% solution.
Hello, My Enrichment Module is not get any voltage.. I applied 12v to the Module and it will engage. Do you know where the voltage is coming from? I have seen that it could be the oil pressure sensor but put a meter on the tip and no voltage there either. Should I be reading voltage at the tip of the OPS? My oil pressure gauge seems like its reading fine... so not sure... BTW.. its a 2005 5.0 TKS HELP!!
Check the oil pressure switch for power. V8 has a sensor and a switch, i believe it gets power from the switch in your case. If not just start checking fuses.
