Hands down the most explanatory and helpful video in adjusting both trim position and trim limiter. Of the hours I spent reading and watching videos, I wish I had just found this one first.
Just wanted to say a HUGE thank you for this video. I purchased a second hand boat on Sunday, and took it out on Monday and the adaptor from the pump to the hydraulic hose cracked and squirted oil out. I got a new adaptor today and fitted it, but the tilt wouldn't lift the motor. Your instructions on how to adjust the tilt limit was all it took to get it working again and now I can't wait until tomorrow to go out on the water!
Great video! ONE QUESTION: Do the new trim limit and senders have to be re-calibrated every time using the outer adjustment pucks? Couldn't you use a white grease pencil to mark the position of where the old pucks were positioned relative to the gimbal ring before removing them so you can use the marks to line up the new pucks once they are installed. Seems like this might save you a lot of extra work, or at least get you very close to where the new pucks need to be positioned so only fine-tuning calibration adjustments are required.
Great video!! I am not wanting to remove the wiring as my wires appear good but the guts are not. Bought new Merc parts.. The alignment mark part is not clear.. ..Is it the space between the teeth?? One of my new ones came where the actual tooth is on the mark. And the other one, the space between the teeth is lined up on the mark.. Plz advise..
Your video was very helpful for my project replacing the sending unit and limit switch. The instructions that came with the new units was confusing but your video cleared up the confusion. Thank you very much.
Folks, This video is Awesome. In fact, without the tool for removing the metal bellow sleeve, It is almost impossible. The real issue I had is, removing the second retainer screw up under the Gimbal Housing. That little 1/2 inch screw too me 4 hours to remove. That is only because I did not remove the bell housing. I only twisted it and use a hammer to keep it out of the way. Putting in the new trim wires were easy. Putting back in the retainer and the two screws were also difficult. The first visible bottom screw is always easy to work with on the Alpha One, but the upper retainer screw took 2 1/2 hours to reinstall. It was a tough job. Having the right tools will make it easier, but it is still allot of work just to put in the limit switches. Mercruiser should have never place the access port for the wires all the way up under the Gimbal Housing.
Great video, I see you skipped through the connections for the trim sender. Just bought a boat and the wiring seems to be off. 165hp mercruiser sterndrive and 260 mcm engine. How and where would these wires be connected to? Thanks
Excellent video! Unfortunately I cant get my limit sensor to work. When I turn the limit sensor by hand it works but when I montage it in the hinge pin it does not work. I noticed that the hinge pin does not turn on when I trim the unit up and down. Is this normal? And if not how can I Fix this problem?
Excellent video, would recommend reading the text since I was just listening and did not initially see the text. You might also want to add to headline. How to adjust trim limit and sending units.
Possible options to consider: 1/2” hex socket or Allen wrench works for hinge pins. At least mine were not so tight that I needed a 12pt . I also didn’t disconnect the u-joint bellows. Just by allowing the housing to go down, once the hinge pins were out, allowed enough access to get to the retainer bolt.
Awesome video. I am about to perform this task myself and I should have watched the video all the way through first because I only purchased the hinge pin tool. Is the other tool for the bellow ring absolutely necessary to re-install the ring or can it be done another way? Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail. Why do you think Mercruiser didn't just have waterproof connectors for the wires into the hull? Seems like a lot of work to snake a couple of wires!
Great video sir:) I have a question, can I just cut the existing wires and just replace the sensors, then use something like a shrink tube along with some red RTV? the point of the whole thing is to make sure water does not get in right? Or what if i use some waterproof connectors? Thank you in advance!
Oleg S, We do not recommend cutting and splicing wires together. The best and most correct way to install the new sender is to use a chaser when pulling and rerouting the new senders and wires.
Great video! Thank you. I have one question though where do the wires connect to? My wiring was so bad that it disintegrated the wiring and I can figure out where the wires go now? I found the two bullet connectors but not sure what wire connect to what
+mper900 The metal is thin enough that you can use a large flat-head screwdriver to bend it and pull it out. A new one will come with new U-Joint bellows.
I have seen some videos which rebuild the parts within the limit and sending housing, using the new parts and seals. Thereby, negating the need to chase the wires back through the transom. IF the wires are intact, of course. Thoughts on this?
I've cleaned the contacts inside many switches which makes them good for a while. Most of the time insulation is in bad shape on the wires so it tends to be fruitless to rebuild those switches.
Can you please tell part numbers for the pin removal tool and the installation tool for ring? One more question what is measurement for the alpha 1st gen drive. Thanks for the awesome video.
Hello, Great video thanks. 2 questions: 1) At any time while replacing the Bellows ring will I need glue/adhesive? and 2) I have a Bravo 3 outdrive with a throttle quadrant that only has a trim switch, not a separate trim and trailer switch. Does this impact how to adjust the trim cutout switch? Thanks!
You will need no glue or adhesive when installing the bellows ring. Your second question is a little harder to answer without detailed wiring information. If you only have a single switch that trims your drive all the way from the bottom to the top…. then I would think it would be safe to say that the trim limit on the back would not be wired into the trim system of the boat. The trim limit is there to open the circuit at a given angle (if adjusted correctly) and the fact that you don’t have a second switch means your (single) switch has to be wired directly to the trim pump. Therefore, in your case, your trim limit on the back would not be used. I hope this helps.
Performance Product Technologies Thanks again for taking the time to answer. That was my thought as well on the trim limit. I guess I'll just plug it back into it's existing connectors and go from there. Thanks again. Doug
No problem this is normal to hear this change is the sound of the pump. When the drive reaches the full down position the sound from the trim pump changes as the relief pressure is reached.
Can you let me know what tools I need to do this on my '97 Brave One? I'd like to save some $$$ and do this over a weekend. I know I need the Hinge Pin Tool, but not sure whatelse. I though I saw somewhere that if I'm doing this I may want to change the U-Joint bellows? Is this correct?
Can you tell me how to measure the trim limit on 1985 Mercruiser 260 outdrive serial #6911225. Everything I am finding is for th Alpha Drive or Bravo drive
you do not have to take anything apart to replace your trim sender & trim limit switch. all you need is a 1/4 drive - 7/16 swivel socket and a extension. wow!
what do the trim wires connect too? if i remember correctly only one of my wires was hooked up and dont know where the leads need to connect to. also my trim units have no indicators so its a 50 50 shot if i put them on the right side. mainly just need to know where/why they connect to the boat.
Well what about cutting the wires about six inches up from the sending and limit senders and adding marine plugs. Assuming the wires are good from the senders to their respective connections.
+AJ Bert As long as you have good wires and make a waterproof connection, I don’t see why that wouldn’t work. I suspect if you cut the wires you would void any warranty on the part. Just something to keep in mind.
I just finished putting new bellows on and could u tell me how to set the trim sender and limit switches. I messed up and didn't mark them. so I don't know if they have to be set just right
Yes what’s the length for an alpha one? My trim gauge is inop and I plan on replacing both sensors and gauge as well however the trim does come up past the cavitation point at its highest limit.
Great video and info!!! Please help me with following problem: when I turn the trim at full up position the pump is stopping automaticaly but when I put the trim at full down, the pump still noising (but the noise is diferent than when it is other position). Is it normaly? I ask this because it is my first boat and it is SH. Thanks
+Big Island MN That would be an option for your own boat but would not be considered a good practice in the boat service industry. In most cases the sending units are being replaced due to corrosion, therefore the wires could be compromised by corrosion, as well. Cutting the wires would also void the new parts 1 year warranty from the manufacture. Although we wouldn’t recommend cutting the wires, that is an option and would certainly save a ton of time.
+Big Island MN The alignment won't change when you remove the drive but unless you know that it's currently in proper alignment, Yes you should check the alignment to be sure it's good. www.perfprotech.com/alignment-tool-kt-805475a1/product/137189
How do I get the hydrolic piece off in order to remove the stern drive from the bell housing. I feel if I pull on it I may bend something or break something important. Thanks!
+Darren Houliston can you take a picture of the part you're referring to and then also give us the serial number of your engine or gimbal assembly. Then email it to sales@perfprotech.com. We will be glad to help you.
Also, I hear a noise when pushing the down button but nothing when pushing it up. I connected the blue and green wire with a jumper and get noise when pushing the up button but the motor does not raise.
take the trim limit cover off with the 4 screws and clean the contact spring with a wire brush. mine wasnt going up i cleaned it with a wire brush and it works now hope it works for you
Ok video, but you guys lack showing ALL the steps (step by step and how to's) on disassembling and reinstalling. But with guessing, I was able to look up other videos on the things y'all didn't show.
My up relay went bad once. It would only go down. I had to "jump" across contacts using some pliers while the boat was in the water to get outdrive up. Then pull to submerged trailer to get the boat out of the water. I think I got a Ford type starter relay as a replacement. It is almost identical.
Save yourself 4 hours of labor, drill a small hole above the transom and rout the wires through there, I have a swim deck so you never see the hole, just make sure to seal it real well with silicone,,,,,
