What a great video! Love all the details and step by step footage you put together. So informative and beautiful to watch. Very excited to keep following the transformation! Keep it up, looks gorgeous!! 😍👏👏👏
This was beyond educational! We sell these at work and didn't consider half of this info. Even seeing them installed you dont consider half of what you just shared.
Ok I can honestly say I was so excited to see the metal framing go up. Love the explanation of the Pros and Cons to using metal framing and I can now say I’m a true “Tin Man” at heart. Lol. Can’t wait to see where the Tiny Master Plan road leads to next. “We’re off to see the” .... breaking into song here. Lol.
Hi Kenton & Ryan thank you for sharing this very Informative Video, as I am in the process of Building a Tiny Home on a 32 foot Gooseneck 21,000 lb. Tri-Axel Custom Low 20" Bed Trailer. I planned on using Metal Framing too in Toronto, Canada. I recently picked up a 2010 F 450 Truck to Tow the Tiny Home Trailer & now looking for a Property in the Niagara Region to Park the Tiny House Trailer on. Cheers from Toronto!
Every inch matters! My favourite space saving hack is getting rid of the subfloor, and instead insulating the trailer frame. Saves labour, materials, and space! Better for cold Climates too :) ~Kenton
So much to know! :) Thankfully the lighting made this super easy to take lots of gorgeous video. Made it easy to make the technical details engaging. :)
This is a FANTASTIC informative video! I’m going steel with my tiny home…makes sense for me as i reside in the south east…humid (termites)…and in a high wind zone with the threat of hurricane outer band winds…my builder (Moveable Roots in S. FL) will outfit my home with “hurricane straps” which will enable me to secure my home with strapping that extends from the TOP of the home thru the frame and into helical piers driven deep into the ground. Also, living in a mountain area the threat of fire is real so metal frame and metal composite cladding helps.
I have a 30 year old Lance camper. The walls are framed with a few 1" square sticks and 1" foam panels glued to 1/8" Luan. It has survived without any structural issues for 30 years, including the 4 years I lived in it full time and the giant oak limb that fell on it a few years ago. Lance still builds them like this today, except that the wood has been replaced with even less, very flimsy, aluminum channel. With that in mind, I would argue that even with 25g steel studs, most tiny trailer homes are massively overbuilt.
Bad news is, it foes. Good news is you can by an antenna receiver and wire it to a repeater you place inside your home. Total cost usually under $50.00 or so.
I always look forward to the episodes. Interesting to hear the benefits of steel. I was never interested in this type of information before, but in the context of the tiny home build it is interesting. Good job editing Jo!
I have a few pallets of old, heavy duty, office cubicles. Instead of sending them to the scrap, I was thinking of using them for a Tiny Home steel or a food truck structure. What are your thoughts on this? They are very thick steel, excellent condition, 4ft x 6ft panels. Any feedback is appreciated!
Sounds promising! But I would have to say it would be best to talk to someone with a structural engineering background. Anything that goes on the road is going to be put under 100 KM/HR+ conditions so needs to withstand wracking, lift, and twisting forces. Then again the other advice is look how other things are built... RV's are built like sh*t. So if you build better than one of them... Haha, one way of looking at it anyways.
I didn't see anything to explain what the project's aim was going to be when it is completed? I like the metal stud idea, but in most of Canada, you need a good R-value yr. round, right? This is only 2 1/2" framing, so what is the product you will use to to insulate a permanently used home like this & what would be?
Hi Jack! Check out episode 6 - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gaPcOxWXDKQ.html Also we are using state of the art + low offgassing Spray Foam from SPARR. R7 per inch. Plus we have an inch of ZIP panel on the exterior of the studs. This will be an incredibly efficient wall system. R20 with no thermal bridging.
@@TheTinyHouseMasterPlan Did you do a calculation for the effective R-value with thermal bridging? I would think this would be around R10 or R11 effective. That is going make the walls feel cold in the winter.
Good question @Terpy Time! We still have to run the completed wall assembly through some engineering calculations for average wall insulating values. That said the R6 out-sulation + the R17.5 within the walls creates R23.5 in the best spots (without thermal bridging). The thermally weak locations is where they studs are. But because there is an air-barrier behind the siding, and because the studs themselves will also be filled with foam, heat losses will be mitigated. Lastly, with the 90%+ heat recovery ventilator and an airtight build, + the extra measures to ensure there is no thermal bridging elsewhere in the build, we are confident this house will be quite comfortable in our Canadian winters. Look forward to reporting our findings later on the homes efficiency upon completion! We have a sponsor - Carbon Busters - who will be doing a full analysis on its performance.
I have heard that the fasteners/screws on these back out the more you haul them. Did you use special metal stud screws to stop them from backing out? What kind did you use?
Great questions! Because we have spray foam in the walls & vibration mitigating suspension system, vibration will be near non-existent! I will have to see if we still have a container of the screws around... The installer picked these out for this application so I personally was not familiar with them.
Questions: Why is almost no one in the US using sandwich panels (Polyurethane foam sandwiched between 2 sheets of metal)? It solves all the problems of metal construction from condensation, insulation to soundproofing, and it's also the easiest thing to work with. Also, why is no one using stainless steel framing? Compared to galvanized steel it is even more rust proof and is also lighter and thus not that much more expensive, also very easy to work with.
@@JJ-vp3bd i don't prefer wood because it has so many maintenance issues with it - rot, termites, fire hazard, etc. But if you are VERY diligent during construction with wood then you can make the best of it by chemically protecting every beam and panel while you build the structure prior to mounting it and later doing it again when it's mounted, because everyone does the mistake of just encapsulating the wood when the structure is completed and thus can't cover all the now inaccessible sides/joints of the beams/panels where later humidity and termites enter
Hi Still wondering if you did any R value tests - last year you mentioned you would do another - just curious as metal has a low r value I believe. Thanks
Hello there. I am very interested. I plan on buying my first and forever home somewhere in central Florida. I would like to know if you have any suggestions on how to find someone in the US that works with steel framing and some type of concrete panels. Please respond Thanking you in advance Myrna
there is a question that came to me, it involves the length of the studs, do you have to take any off the length of the studs? for example with wood, if i were to go with standard 8 foot boards instead of precuts(just for the sake of my question), for outside walls i would take off 3 inches(top, bottom plates, ok a bit more is off of precuts but this is just for the sake of asking), for metal do i have to do the same thing(only much less)? and what about for interior walls?
The metal studs insert into a top & bottom track so you need to account for the thickness of the track wall 2x. (Its small but for precision it's good to mention). For calculating the finished wall height (and what to cut your studs to) there is also the height of the track that is turned on its side so it can accept the roof joists. I would recommend consulting an engineer or specialist in metal studs to determine what gauge and dimensions you can get away with for your structural framing needs. Then you reverse engineer the height of the wall based on how thick your track wall is and how wide it is.
We were provide 5/8 OSB for free. We used that, but later on we needed to put down additional underlayment to prepare for the vinyl flooring we are putting in
Good question! Best to consult a specialist like a structural engineer. The answer will depend on the design of the house. (Ex. How much weight is upstairs? How is the roof and snow load transfered).
Oh man! I could tell you an answer, but it could change next week. Usually metal is 5-15% more expensive, but wood shortages during COVID reversed it for a while.
As a former metal framer in the commercial construction field, I love what I'm seeing here. However, the masks, as we now know are totally and medically unnecessary, are a distraction. That being said, it would be Kool if you remade this video without wearing masks. Thanks in advance.
Love to hear that from someone in the industry! Yeah, this video was shot in the middle of that crazy time. With students and our sponsors all on the filming set, we were bound by alllllll sorts of rules. Thanks though! And if we ever get the time to redo, we will!
