Metal Roof Install Over Shingles 

You got any advice on a redoing a slightly sloped Tar and Gravel roof. What would you do if you needed a new roof and its tar and gravel.

@@matt7iron kind of hard to say, would need to see it. If it is sloped more then just a few degrees then you should theoretically be able to go over it if it is not going to be inspected. May need an underlayment layer of felt or a membrane layer for moisture, then purlings and then the metal. Or you may need to take off that layer of tar and rock and just go with new plywood or just purlings in some cases. Hard to say there are a lot of considerations. You may be able to just use purlings and metal and let the tar roof do its job as the membrane layer.

@moreworkfortrevor2027 I live in Florida. Im going do the same to my home (Metal over Shingles) will my homeowners insurance still insure me? I have Citizens insurance. Can information you can provide me would be greatly appreciated.

Nice, yea that summer time sun is brutal and expensive!!

Thank you! It did improve the look quite a bit!

I'm sorry for your loss! The good news is at least you won't have to torture his back too when you screw in the thousands of screws. I'm sure he will be watching and helping you in spirit!

Awe, May your dad rest in peace. I'm sure he was watching you and proud of you to think of him.

@@azteca132525 Thanks Al.

My condolences, God Bless

@@josephcelestine1945 Thank you, sir. Appreciated.

Thank you Sir!

Thanks, it was everything but easy in the middle of summer!

Glad you enjoyed it!

LOL, can you give us a timestamp!

You're welcome!

Rock on! That's what I figured, mucho savings!!!

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 Hello! How much does a sheet of metal cost?

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you very much!

Thanks for watching!

You definitely could although I don't know if the inspector would require you to do something else along with the solar shield, maybe a complete dry in which is not so bad.

No need to take shingles off. Hell I have seen homes with 3 layers. A single layer then the metal really isn't that heavy. I did my roof about 10 years ago and have been happy with it ever since.

Thank you!

Your welcome

One is a pit mix and the other looks like a small golden lab mix? Not really sure what she is.

I meant to mention, your roof looked so good though, I wouldn't have done it differently at that time...good job.

Thank you for the kind words. As far as the purlings it is required for code on the metal over an existing shingle roof. Although I'm sure the solar/moisture barrier I installed would have been sufficient moisture barrier but I'm not sure about the direct heat of the metal in direct sun? I'm not sure how it's handled elsewhere or the exact reasoning for the purlings. I did see a new metal roof on you tube that just had the plywood with the built in green moisture barrier. Definitely would save some time!

Thanks!!

Very welcome

Sure, basically it's critical to make sure your sheet is squared up on the roof properly. I just us the board as a longer straight edge to represent the straightness of the sheet. Your measurement on the right side should be the same as the left side. You can do this with just the 3' wide sheet, the board just accentuates it and makes it easier. For instance, a 1/16" variance on just the 3' wide sheet would appear to be close enough, multiply that by double or triple and now you have a 1/8" difference to 3/16". As you ad more sheets the amount your off keeps adding up to eventually your and inch off and so on. One thing to keep an eye on is to check every other sheet once you know you're running straight and if you start to run off coarse you can stretch the sheet or compress it slightly enough to get back on track. It's kind of hard to explain but you can get a little play out of these because of the ribs.

I used the thinner 29 guage in galvalume color or abscence of color. I think the painted ones may hold up better to the elements. I can already see some slight rusting just a hair in spots that need to be wiped down on the ends in places. The thicker stuff is really nice if you have the wallet for it!

I have 2 gable vents about 2 ft square on each side, was thinking of adding a solar powered fan/vent on the rear for extra help. I honestly think every roof should have another roof or air gap or tree cover to always keep the house in the shade. The radiant heat that roofs produce is insane and trying to cool that off every day is such an energy waste as well as money.

I agree, technically I have 3 lines of defense with the solar bubble reflector. Stuff feels high quality too, definitely better then felt paper or peel and stick!

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 also I failed to mention I did not lay my metal on the shingles directly I used 30 lb felt over the shingles before I applied my metal and also used the long screws where they would penetrate through the plywood, anyway great video enjoyed it

No issues

No so.

I agree, metal is better for solar. Maybe best would be a stand alone structure just for the panels but would increase the cost.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 Your metal roof will last a lifetime, problem solved.

I can't think of anything that would make that fail other then the inspectors probably failing it and could possible melt due to the heat of the metal roof in summer sun. May be fine and can tolerate the heat but just a thought.

$3800 usd

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 how many squares?

I didn't have gutters when I did this. I don't think they would overshoot anywhere except possibly a valley like the front porch. Otherwise it's just a slow drip or flow really from what I've seen when it rains. Normally you would have your gutters tucked under the drip edge so like you said, that would be 3/4" higher now unless the new drip is wider then the previous.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 Thank you!

I think I spent a total of around $3800 on metal (29guage, thinner metal) that includes the solar/water barrier, 1x4's and screws which I got the upgraded no rust screws. I forgot the size I think 5/16 or 3/8 but I like the 1/4" better they stay in the socket better when trying to screw them in. That's on a 1223 sqft home. I don't know how much the 1x4 is but I'm sure you save a bit getting them in bulk from the metal supplier as long as they are a decent outfit.

The underlayment and 1x4 you can get done in a day if you work hard and fast, 2 if it's a bigger house. About 3 more days to put up all the metal and screw in ALL the screws. If you have a nail gun and a tab gun for the underlayment you should be able to cut down on the time to get to the metal.

I'm not sure what your asking, which panel or piece are you asking about?

this house actually has two gable vents on each side of the house like 2ft. square on each side. I may put a solar vent eventually on the back side. I can see how you could cut a ridge vent and not use the foam they recommend under the ridge cap which would allow the attic to actually vent. Did one in the past and noticed that if you don't nail down a bug screen with some battons you'll get a ton of spiders in the attic and around that spot of the ridge vent, just something to keep in mind. Also the only worry to have is high winds which are able to push water up the roof slope like hurricanes or bad storms. I live in Florida so I guess I aired on the side of caution. I could probably put foam in the front portion and not in the back portion as that side wouldn't get the high winds.

Screws are going in to 1x4 yellow pine purlings. I'm sure over time they may move a bit. Like most things it helps to constantly check things and keep an eye on stuff especially around water.

You can repair any soft spots before putting on the metal, but the metal and wood doesn't add a meaningful load to your roof and is a superior product to shingles for any weather. Add the solar barrier for superior ac savings.

Drip edge

Tri county metals I think. Just Google map matal roofing and see what you get. They have different styles, mine was an ultra rib I think. You can get painted colors or galvalum is the cheapest which is what I have.

You want at least one overlap, you can run one longways down the valley and trim the regular runs with the angle of the valley or you can run the first run long and cut the adjacent one to the valley. As long as you have the overlap.

Couldn't find the original product but similar to this. a.co/d/2Mss2hB

total was around $3800 usd, pre massive inflation!! Did not replace gutters or fascia yet but plan to.

I opted not to use them, since I have shingles and a good rain barrier I'm not worried about critters or rain plus high winds pushing water up. If you close them it won't vent heat as good is my take.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 Thanks for your quick reply. Those were pretty much my thoughts on it as well, just needed someone who has been there to confirm it. I'm very very glad that I saw your video when I did because it convinced me to do my own roof. Saved thousands!! Your narrative made it easy to understand and I took more notes from your video than I did in college!! LOL THANKS AGAIN

Hey Trevor, i got a new question for you. Im stuck on a problem that I did not see coming and would like your thoughts on how to go about correcting it. When installing my metal panels I got about 90% done on the back side of my home which is a double wide mobile home when i came to the point where there are two skylights that are 24" x 48" and spaced 4ft apart. When I installed the panel that came up to the side of the first skylight I was shocked to see that there was 3" difference from top to bottom where the panel overlapped. So I checked to make sure I was square all the way down and I was. I pulled tape on the roof from one end to the other on the ridge and then on the eave and shockingly found the roof line to be almost 4" longer on the bottom versus the top!! My question is: Is there any way to correct my line without removing all the panels that will make it come out some what even when I get the remaining 14' feet of panels installed? I know its my fault for not catching that from the start, but I didn't!! Boy they really don't care how they put mobile homes together anymore. I swear when they built it they must have had one guy start on one end and another start on the other end and where ever they met they just threw extra lumber on it, because my truss lines were every 2ft from one end until you got about 75% of the way down then I lost them and had to start from scratch on the other end and found them coming every 2ft from that end and ended up meeting about a 1/4 of the way down being spaced at 9", 11" and even a couple of 6" and 7" spacing threw in there. Any way Im rambling. Sorry to make the question so long but would really value your opinion on how to fix it at the skylight end!! THANKS SO MUCH!! I hope you dont find me to be a total idiot on the install. Im just lost at what to do

I'm not sure what that means, can you elaborate?

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-la7vuW_E_Cs.html

Attic is noticeably cooler, probably combo of barrier and pruning space and air flow that allows as well. Not sure on how much savings, would have to compare before and after energy.

Barrier is water resistant, don't know about vapor.

@moreworkfortrevor2027 what brand was the radiant barrier, that was a double sided radiant with foam or bubbles between?

​@moreworkfortrevor2027 did you cut a ridge vent in?

Not for hire, I would say the electric bill is down atleast 15%.

Drip edge is the first metal to go on the roof, protects fascia and provides a "drip edge"

I'm not sure but I don't think the shingles have anything to do with the condensation problem but I haven't looked in to that. Are you saying that's the case? I would say it is a bit of work and if you can go over it, so why would you go through that just to remove them? Also the inspector wanted to make sure that I did not remove them. I'm guessing they would have to look at the plywood and or nailing patterns if you did. I would imagine you would save on the some of the radiant heat transfer, but the solar barrier should block a good percentage of that. I think a new roof would be fine to do without shingles obviously if you're doing metal.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 .... by laying down a moisture barrier on top of a moisture barrier it is possible for moisture to be trapped in the shingle area which could slowly get to the roof deck. The battens were installed with out a gap to allow air to flow more easily. Which means you have created a area for water to build up if the washers on the screws fail. The shingles should have been removed so you can see the decking and get a good idea if mold or rotted wood is present. I don’t know why the inspector would tell you not to remove the shingles. The roof looked like it was leaking water from the video. The inspector is not doing his job. I would never hire anyone who would recommend to just lay battens over an old shingle roof.

how long did they last you?

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 I don't use them cuz I know they don't last that too unpredictable

@@traceyjscott069 what do you recommend ?

@@steveelder5306 snaplock standing scene with no exposed fasteners

@@traceyjscott069 thanks man!

SmartBUBBLE- 48"x100ft Reflective Insulation roll, Single Bubble Radiant Barrier, Thermal Insulation Shield - 3/16" Single Bubble - Reflective / Reflective a.co/d/c5xB3Wj Not what I used but should work the same, some of these are foam core, mine was bubbles similar to shipping bubble wrap, the small kind.

The solar barrier I used helps with the heat as well as the wood that I put down helps with ventilation a bit as well as keeps a little distance between the metal and the shingles. I think the main reason is condensation reasons but am unsure exactly, inspectors want to see that the wood is down and that the old shingles are still there.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 thanks

It seems to be a superior product, and not as hard as tearing out asphalt shingles and laying new ones.

I see it like this; if repairs are needed, they would know because there would be a leak. If something is old and corroded because of previous water entry but is still working, then the new panels will stop any further damage.

You can tear off the old shingles, not sure exactly what the inspector will want to see. For this process they did not want to see any torn off shingles. Inspector wanted to make sure the shingles were still there before he signed off on the first inspection before I put the metal down. You may have to tear off all shingles and relay a felt paper or underlayment of any kind down before proceeding. If the roof is not leaking, you put down the solar/water barrier and the metal, now you have multiple layers of safety. Damaged areas should be repaired, underlayment and shingled before proceeding to the metal roof if there is any damage.

No barriers other then the moisture/solar and the existing roof.

Probably a similar cost but way more work for shingles in my opinion. For me metal is easier. But I could easily do shingles as well. When I compare the two mentally I just feel better about metal.

North Central Florida, I don't know the cost difference but a standing seem metal roof would be better, this one is holding up great, but one day down the line between 20-40 years later some of the screws with the gaskets will start to leak and you can either replace them or seal over them with silicone or another equivalent. Standing seam has hidden fasteners.

I did not, I figure the shingles don't leak and the solar barrier is a water barrier as well. You would need high sustained winds and heavy rain to cause an issue.

The eave closers keep out insects and small rodents

You will need a roofing contractor for that.

No, the county was pretty easy to work with. It helps to know how to do things properly and to code so they're no surprises as well!

I used the location in Ocala.

What is the brand of the solar foam underlay you used? I was trying to find it and couldn’t find it

solar bubble reflector

Yeah or search that and you'll get close enough!

Tri county metals tricountymetals.com/locations/ocala/ I've used them a few times and have been satisfied with the service and prices. Just verify which location you think you're ordering from.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 I have bought at least a dozen metal roofs from Tri-county .

I never have and have also never considered doing that. You may end up with a more attractive drip edge that way. The way I do it and have only seen it done is to just but your drip edge tight to the existing shingles and drip edge. It will leave you with a slight gap like 3/4" or so in between the new drip edge and the fascia, but it doesn't really look that bad considering.

With mine? Should be perfectly fine as i have used the 1x4 purlings and also have the vapor and solar shield. I've heard there could be an issue if you don't use the 1x4's.

foam caps? I'm not sure what you mean. No foam used in this process on the ends. What would you use that for?

Dont use foam caps. Use the rubber kind.

I think you should be able to find all of these materials easily enough.

no

It's not much weight when spread over all the trusses.

Thanks Nick!

$3800 pre covid usd.

Couple of vents in the back and gable vents on the sides of the house. Still have to install the kitchen hood vent.

It's code here to use the lathing. Apparently I read that condensation is the problem when it sits on the roof. Although the underlayment that I used may prevent that. It may be whether or not you use that underlayment. I've seen videos of other metal roofs being laid directly on the plywood with the built in green membrane system so I'm not sure. Maybe it's Floriduh specific?

When you walk on it flush to shingles it will score it and rust with condensation.

Just because everyone runs it like this but I definitely think you could do something to optimize the ventilation.

I would have to check. I would say definitely. This summer I'm going to check the temp up there. I meant to get a reading before and after I did the roof for comparison. The solar bubble is a big deal!

a mixture for mine as i was dealing with an angle change. I ran some strings to plane it and used varying thicknesses to give me a flat roof. It was either that or use the flashing in the angle change and use 2 different pieces of metal to cover the change.

Possibly, although I know it is helping tremendously even if it is. May not make a large difference but would be nice to test the difference.

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 I recently used radiant barrier under metal roof with purlins. I live near Orlando. In the middle of summer I used a temperature laser to check the temperature. Sun beating on it middle of the day. 100 degrees at the peak of the roof inside. That radiant barrier is some great stuff!

that color is the most affordable

Nah. He installed the way the manufacturers call for.

I got burned so bad I had to cover my whole face with like those fishing masks/cloth and resort to long sleeve fishing shirt!

@@moreworkfortrevor2027 i bet man. like being on the water and sun reflecting onto you. Never been burned that bad before