My old (1930's) metal roof is 2x4" 24" oc, with 1x4"ish battens, under an old crumbling wood shingles with 50 yr old metal roof on top. Currently dealing with water issues, but that aside I love the sound of rain, and yes it is quite audible. The water issues are urgent, and I am researching how to fix it. No decking, no underlayment of course.... going to be interesting. 1/4" to 1/2" gaps in many places can see light from outside while in the attic...
This appears to be four times as much as Grace underlayment ($2.04 vs. $.64 /SF). So for the 30'x80' shop I just did, that would have added four grand alone to just underlayment. While the product seems awesome, it is definately for upper end buildings, rather than the majority of residential construction.
yep theyre gouging consumers for what the product does instead of just making a modest profit on what's probably partially made from recycled milk jugs and pop bottles anyways
mad rat, if you do your research thoroughly you will find that a percentage of recyclable plastics are starting to be incorporated into it as the rise in uses and demand for it keep growing whereby the current global demand for the material generates an annual market of approx 45 million tons and expected to reach nearly 65 million tons over the next several years, but not saying the product in the video is or isn't made from polypropylene which has recycled plastics in it...just saying like in the previous comment that they are probably partially made from recycled plastics
Hello Matt, I don't know who your metal provider is but of the three I have contact with all are unanimous in not wanting any kind of washer headed nails under the metal. They are afraid it will telegraph through the metal when viewed from the ground. This is for standing seam type roof as the corrugated seems not to present the problem since it doesn't have the flat pans. Incidentally I have had an exposed fastener corrugated roof on my home for almost thirty years in a high humidity temperate rain forest with coastal high winds. No problems whatsoever. I put it over ninety pound felt (try getting that nowadays) and 5/8 sheathing. Hex headed screws are showing some rust and the gaskets are probably getting a bit long in the tooth but with a bit of touch up paint once in that time it is in good shape. When I hear the rain so do my neighbors, no condensation, no moss, no wind tear off (The building had had the three tab roof replaced twice in its ten year life before I bought it.) and I don't have to worry about snow build up with the heavy cement style we get. It slides right off when more than four or five inches build up. Thanks for the information although it seems cost prohibitive. I would have to see its performance down the road a few years. Most of the synthetics are vulnerable to high heat over time. Take care. Doug
furring seems better imo looking at the price per foot for this 'awesome' product compared to asphalt or similar composite underlayment of lower cost to separate the metal from the wood to reduce or prevent water damage between metal and wood
Could you talk about how the metal paneling folds over the edge of the roof as it transitions into siding? I'm looking at 2:22. Are the panels pre-bent at that angle or is two panels meeting with a particular type of flashing? Thanks!
Contact a metal mfg for that. This guy's not a metal roofer. ( I am) hemming edges can be done with a 6 inch steel hand brake from midwest, some time, patience, and a rubber mallet. ( Eastwing grey soft) and 34 dollars worth of midwest aviation snips. And do it on the roof around a residential drip edge with 1.25 inch overhang. Or you can go whole hog and look at my patent or pend. Hemming tools. Send me your email, and I'll forward the RU-vid video of it working Lucas tin man Exteriors Minnesota Ssr specialist
a low cost asphalt or similar composite material underlayment on top of furring strips is enough imo, as the ridges allow for airflow while the felt provides a waterproofing barrier between the sheet metal and wood prevents or reduces wood related staining or mold issues. I looked up the price for a roll of this stuff, $$$, just for that airflow and water drainage, unless I won the lottery or inherited finance then I would not bother with this product
I was wondering how you were able to achieve your roof to wall transition detail. Also, your wall to "under cantilever" siding detail. Could you do a video/explain that! It's a really nice, and clean detail!
Rodney, you must not be a General Contractor that has had one of your prized employee's lives saved by a proper safety harness. Otherwise, you would never say phuck about safe job site practices !! And I'm not employed by OSHA .......
We don't constantly need you idiots with your nazi safety police badge going around like a know-it-all. If he wants to take the risk of not wearing some safety harness then it's his life.
I can understand the Delta Trela matrix being a good air cap material for a quiet roof but I question how much air is going to be able to transverse thru that matrix to actually get a good air flow to carry away heat from the eave to the ridge. Sounds like what you use depends on what your goals are. The matrix being for sound proofing and the batten strips for venting.
only the upper layer allows water through. The self sealing layer underneath is the self sealing membrane so this washer would be redundant water proofing.
I wish you had shown this video a couple of months ago. I insisted my roofer use Carlisle WIP 300 HT underlayment and also insisted he install 1/2" thick furring strips under the metal roof on our new SIP home based on a video you did previously. It took him weeks to finish and I don't know yet what the final cost is. Oh well, it should still work very well.
what did the cost end up being? I think you went a far more economical route as this Delta Trela is absurdgly expensive. He recommended Carlisle before with another air gap or 1x4's so you're there as far as good practices. I may actually do exactly what you did for my new construction.
Are you using exterior foam insulation on the roof sheathing, or installing any peel and stick WIP under this? How are you attaching the metal roof to the underlayment - unless you've sandwiched the foam with another layer of OSB or run purlins?
Hey Matt, in Australia we use something called "Anticon" which is fibreglass wool bonded to a foil barrier. Great sound barrier too. Wondering what you think about it and if you have it over there.
what a silly question, it as he said and explains provides a AIR gap between the underside of the metal and top of the roof sheeting to allow for more airflow and any water intrusion to drain away conveniently, and I looked at the product website and it says the same
The measured difference between an metal roof and an asphalt roof is 6 decibels. I don't know of anyone who complains about the noise of an asphalt roof when it rains. Consequently, noise reduction is not a selling point of this product nor should noise be a concern to anyone considering a metal roof unless they don't have anything between the metal roof and their ears, such as wood decking, attic space, insulation, and ceilings.
I only ear the drops pattering on a metal roof as you said in buildings where there is no sound insulation in the roof or if trusses in the ceiling or bottom chord even.
Umm... I have a garage/office with 12" roof rafters and closed cell foam for insulation followed by a shiplap wood ceiling. And of course a standing seam metal roof. When it rains it's much more noticeable then in my asphalt covered house. It's actually loud and when I'm on the phone with people they notice. Since I now plan on putting standing seam metal on the main house, I'm interested in anything that will cut that down. I live in New England and perhaps we get more rain then in warmer/drier climes.
No information available for the underlayment anywhere, where do I purchase it? Lowe's just wants to sell felt paper and has nothing the metal roof manufacturer will aprove in order to not void the warrentee.
Seems like having the metal spaced up with that soft airgap behind would make it more likely to get dents from small pea sized hail where it might not when hard on the decking? How much is that underlayment per square?
You realize that metal roofs are supposed to have an airgap. That 'soft airgap' is not soft and its important. The moisture that forms under metal roofs is from moisture deposited by the air, not directly from precipitation. Anywhere hot meets cold your air will deposit its contents. And commercial metal roofs are 22 guage whereas homes typically drop to 24 gauge or less; neither one is prone to dings. The project he is working on looks commercial. Regardless, if you are worried about dings then use textured panels. No dings will likely form on the metal roofs unless you drop something that would have put a hole in most other types of roof.
How about when you are using corrugated metal. Seems like the corrugations would provide some air gap and drying potential. Admittedly, corrugated metal is not as high-end as this.
this product is a slightly to way overpriced ventilation system where soffit and side vents would suffice if installed, and if still having such humidity issues then felt paper would suffice between the metal and wood.
Likewise I'm evaluating whether or not this Delta Trela is worth my time. As of now this Trela stuff is running $100/sq from what I've gathered. A synthetic underlayment with, lets say, 20 8' pcs of lathing/ sq should only cost $40 to $50/sq. There's no way I'm saving $50 or more per sq to make up that cost difference in labor.
The best way to ventilate a metal roof is to have plywood on the rafters and then tywek or something and then 1/2x2 strips of pressure treated wood on the vertical on top of the tyvek and then 2x4 across the length to nail or screw the metal panels on
Not pressure treated wood. It will corrode the metal on the underside of the panel and the underlayment HAS to be high temp ice and watershield. This is why anchor bolts are galvanized.
"From 50' in the air." Sir, you gave a great video on the product, but it's only as good as the safety conveyed. Before ever going into the basket of the lift, please make sure you have your safety harness on. Besides the HUGE OSHA fine, it's literally life and death decision. Lastly, one must remember for the new fellows to learn the best never happens if your beginning unsafely. God bless you.
fastener points when misplaces or not otherwise fastened properly will permit water permeation thus why he showed the epdm rubber washer nails, most companies offer epdm washer screws
Depends on whether it is corrugated and standing seam. Corrugated the fasteners are exposed and standing seam the are held by hidden clips. Metal expands and contracts and with the fasteners for the corrugated metal roofs the holes at the fasteners can elongate the hole and also work loose to the point the rubber washers loose their seal.