Currently buying my first midget and this video was the most helpful one I've come across. Was really helpful knowing the cars weak points prior to seeing the car... Hopefully picking it up at the weekend! Thanks for the help (you have a new subscriber)
@@AndysMGAdventures 1977 1500 with bumper conversion. Rebuilt a couple of years ago and not seen the rain since. A purists nightmare as it's Vulcan grey (same as the bomber!) Really clean car, I checked all the points you suggest and was surprised how tidy it was and the test drive was great fun. Will have it by Sunday morning just hope the weather forecast is right and it stays dry
Andy, I live in Switzerland and am organizing my second Mg Midget Alpine Tour (Sprite derivatives welcome) in Sept 2023. There is a group that drive over from the UK (Mostly MASC members from Kent), they take 3-4 days driving over and we meet up in Switzerland for a week in the mountains driving various passes. We have a hotel as a base and drive various routes from there. Let me know if you are interested, everyone pays their hotels themselves (there is a plan with the route and stops & its done on a budget). We also have some Swiss members from my Swiss club, a couple of French members German too...... Its a blast.......
Hey Sacosh ! As much as I would love to do this, sadly I must decline! I have a little one, and limited time from work I'm afraid and am booked up already for 2023! But super touched your reached out. Best of luck with it though my friend
Well done. Overall a very good video well presented. I think your values went from too optimistic at £500 to not insane enough for a very straight Frogeye but those buying at those ends often aren't buying the cars to actually drive them.
Interesting video. I had a 1500 Midget for a short time and found the MG Owners Club to be a particularly useful for spares, advice and so forth. One owner reviewed his car and said it had the handling of a greasy pig in a greasy sack. A bit unkind but it's rear wheel drive with cart spring suspension on the back and lever arm shock absorbers on the front. There are all manner of upgrades for the suspension and you can even go for a K series engine however, soon you'll find you're converting it into something entirely different like a Mazda.
Thanks Tom. I would love to do some of the front line upgrades to mine. But it makes me think the money would be better sent. Fixing up the body work 🙌
Almost every one will have some bondo in the front of the hood, as this area is very vulnerable to damage from newer cars with higher bumpers. Check the inside for poor bodywork. A little bit is not a deal killer, but bondo over rust isn’t ideal. Also check for rust in the battery box.
Excellent video Andy. Very nicely produced and some great advice. I would invest in an AA inspection. I've found that this can be a real money saver over time. Better to get the best you can afford than having to spend a small fortune when you discover great big nasty holes you missed earlier. I think these cars age rather like humans. I squeak and rattle a bit and have the odd exhaust leak sometimes. Oh well, ces't la vie.
@@AndysMGAdventures - My '75 Midget is orange like at 2:40, but rubber bumpers, was 1500 engine, 57 emissions netHP, 85 MPH, before the V8. Originally dark British Racing Green, but it's so small, I feel safer in it with Mustang Grabber Orange paint.
@@AndysMGAdventures - White color is great! Black wheels just look dirty to me... sorry you didn't get the 3rd wiper... LOL ! cdn1.mecum.com/auctions/ln1021/ln1021-467556/images/img2182-1632513245217@2x.jpg
I had a 1973 ... I put a Toyota starlet 5 speed gearbox, coby exhaust and custom air box. It was so cool... I blew up driveshaft. Fixed that and it was possibly the coolest car I’ve ever driven. Slide round corners... and heaps of power. Ohhh reminisce... now I have 4 kids (under 6) and a Mitsubishi people mover 😏
Film making and editing is first rate improved, I think, over time. The rubber bumper is a horror, glad mine was removed before I bought it. You need a name tag on your coveralls. Mine says "Kenny" (only my mom and wife call me that). You need (and I need) a pair of hydraulic lift pistons for the bonnet, it saves it from warping. This is a really good overview.
Great video Andy I had a glacier white 72 RWA with navy blue interior as my first car which was my daily driver back in 86-88. I have owned a 72 RWA, a 76 1500,a 66 MK11 and now on my 74 RWA owned 19 years. Keep up the good work Andy.👍
I can see how people might find you a bit too corny, but I really enjoy it for some reason. You're sharing what you're learning with people as you go, and doing it in your style. Keep it up I say, and as the saying goes, Illegitimi non carborundum.
We had two Midgets. I drove a 1963 when Doris and I were dating in high school. Dad bought it for $225 and told me I could keep it if I could make it run. I bought a 1974 Midget for Doris and we drove it for several years. I miss my Midget.
@@AndysMGAdventures I'm a pastor who already has too many vehicles in his garage, though. Finding parts for a 50 year old car in the US is often a problem. I know. I have my Dad's 1966 Chevy Corvair ...
Great video. I am about to buy my first, mk3 67. It needs a bit work, and I am totally knew to this, no experience handling cars more than driving them. Would you please share some tips I ought to know? The very basics, tools, places to order possible parts, parts (in the car) to pay extra attention to and learn its name/meaning. Thanks.
I think you got one thing wrong - you said to move the car and make sure there's no ugly spots on the ground. How else are you supposed to know if it has oil in it? It lets you know the automatic undercoat rust prevention system is still working!
Its not the water thats the corrosion problem.. The problem is the salt used on British roads! I rebuilt a '66 model in the UK in the early 80's, total rust bucket. Now living in a "Non-salt" state in the USA and we throw away cars with not a spec of rust. The same car in a "salt" will rust away like it does in Blighty.
@@AndysMGAdventures Hi Andy , I had a look at the midget today with the list of things to check but when I got there the car was covered and outside his house so had a peek underneath and everything underneath was new and he had done a lot too the car so I asked if he had it Mot he said no and wouldn’t have one done, anyway took it for a run loved driving it except for the odd grating go gears then it started fluttering he said it’s the petrol nowadays it doesn’t like it so parked up and walked away thinking 🤔 £6500
@@rogerfox7380 there are 2 for sale on the Midget and sprite club on Facebook (the club I'm a part of ) for much cheaper than that.... I would shop about a little bit more. Gears crunching if its isn't first gear syncromesh issues, is a little concerning! You did the right thing !
Love your videos Andy. Even your finger pointing lol. Just purchased my 1st. Maizee the mellow midget!! Just wondering,do you know what size steering wheel you had. I've still got the original and contemplating a 14" or maybe a 13". Farewell Margo, you will be missed
Andy, what's the story mate? Ya got rid of Margo and we are still waiting for the new ride. If you don't mind the steering wheel being on other side I'll find you one here across the pond.
Haha. Hey Mike. I got an 84 1275 mini cabrio. Which has currently got the block and GB split apart . But decided to take a rest from making RU-vid videos for a bit . I might do one soon though....
Great cars. Paid £4000 for my ‘66 Sprite mk3 which has been upgraded to a 1275 from 1100. Needs a bit of fettling but I’m enjoying doing it. Next job is to replace the dual master cylinder as the brakes don’t work 🤣
I was surprised to hear you suggest not paying extra for an Austin Healey when the Midget was originally an upscale Sprite. Has that changed over time in the UK? (here in the US I’m not aware that the Sprites have appreciated over the Midgets).
I wish I had kept my mrk 2 midget, one point to stop the car being stolen install a petrol cut off valve in the boot. When you leave the car for a period just action the valve. The thief will not go very long distance !!!!
@@AndysMGAdventures I hope it will be move little better, rather common conversion back in the days, looks like a Austin A engine but with Al top and five main bearings and more improvements copmared to the Austin, maybe 80 Hp
I owned a '73 Midget in an unattractive battle ship grey color. Here would be my BIG spots to check: The sills on these car rust, often and badly. Since this is a unibody car, the quality of the sills is essential to having a safe car. They can be rebuilt, but there is a lot of grinding and welding involved. Floor pans rust as fast as the sills. There are replacement parts for them also, think in the range of $300+ for the part. Grinding and welding are again needed for the repair. In both cases, get the car in the air so you can see plainly what is going on under the car. Have that magnet ready so you can be sure you are not looking at cosmetic filler instead of good body work. While you are under there, like pointed out in the video, look at all the suspension points for rust of accident damage. These have lever shock absorbers. If they display oil leaks they will need to be rebuilt. In the front, those shocks are also the upper control arm for the suspension. Check the carbs for function. It is the design from hell, if they have been miss adjusted sometime in their lives, spend the money on a specialist to make them right again. You can down shift into first on a roll, but it requires knowing how to properly double clutch the transmission. Don't try it above 10 mph. These engines are a breeze to work on and parts are widely available. I would recommend the last of the 1275cc cars. All the proper updates and that great A35 engine that was used in Austin Minis and Formula Junior cars in the early 1960's. This is the most fun you can have at 45 mph in a car. It is not a high speed cruiser. Speeds 65 mph and higher are thrilling for all the wrong reasons. Combining ancient suspension design with minimal tire to the road contact leads to some interesting wandering at speeds above 65. Had I not grown as fat as I am, and had a back full of arthritis, I would have one today as a weekend toy. The one I had back around 1980 was my daily driver and it worked great for my 15 mile commute. Keep in mind, if you are in America, these cars compared to an 18 wheeler is not a fair contest. If you buy one, immediately replace the horn with one that will actually get people's attention.
I am interested in getting an early 1970s Midget for summer; particularly to take on mini road trips. Can you confidently take a midget on a 500km trip?
My midget was the most reliable car I've ever had lol . However I fastidiously maintained it. So if you get one, make sure the previous owners has looked after it !
If they're well maintained then they can be . They're just a bit noisy with the roof up! mine has been very reliable over 5 years. Only broken down once or twice! Just make you store it well , wherever you park it.
They are a little wobbly . You can upgrade suspension and tires but because they're light and small, you can get them sideways..... but in the dry they are super grippy
Drive my '75 Midget year around... sun, rain, snow... nothing unusual... -25 degrees F... OK, heater is marginal that cold outside... good thing we were wearing snow skiing clothes...
Ha. OK. I was always told mechanically they're easy to work on. So bodywork is key. Look for ripples, signs of rust in arches, pillars, water runs around the bonnet and boot. 15 grand for the 1500 engine seems a lot to me. it's more the provenance of it being Hammonds. Having been in both, I still prefer the pull of the 1275
Just look in the seams of the boot lid where the hinges go. There's a bit of rubber that goes round it. Look in that recess, common places for rust all round the boot aperture
Sounds like a farm tractor, accelerates like a tugboat, priced like a super car, crash survivability like a ninja bike, parts availability like a German U-boat. Yeah, all that's too much to check and maintain for a normal person. I bought a 1985 Honda cruiser motorcycle instead. Everythings accessible and visible, and the less there, the less than can rust or break. And it gets the same 50 MPG as a Midget. Oh, and at $1,000 US, it was about $19,000 cheaper than an MG Midget. Accelerates way faster too! Love it. Gets lots of comments. And it's got legit chorome spoked wheels like an MG TD!
@@AndysMGAdventures For some reason they are way over priced in the United States. They want $20,000 US for any Midget any year. You can get a new 2022 car or a house trailer for that. My entire house only cost $10K.
Motorcycles tend to get boring and uncomfortable after first 2 miles... rather put top down on V8 Midget and run coast to coast in USA... just as much fresh air... no bugs in teeth... Don't get me wrong, also have the most beautiful motorcycle ever made: Suzuki Intruder 805cc V-Twin cruiser... i0.wp.com/i.pinimg.com/originals/54/04/cd/5404cd5912bb0cc797639d080546a04f.jpg
Tough question! All depends what people want. As I live in the UK, and it rains a fair amount, I was recommended a set of UniRoyal Rain Experts - they actually do a superb job I must say
Well when life throws you all sorts of curveballs, it's nice to be silly once in a while. Plenty of other videos out there my friend for you if you want something serious. 👍🏻
@@AndysMGAdventures you know, I’d like to apologise. I’ve been watching your videos and you have a unique way of explaining things very clearly. I’ve learnt a lot about the car and also to not be so judgmental. Please accept my apology. Regards. Steve w
I have the opposite problem--I'm 5 feet tall, so I have to sit on a pillow to see over the steering wheel. I've liked the Midget since I was in high school long, long ago. In fact, my HS boyfriend bought one because he knew I like them. Maybe someday I'll be able to get myself one; I'm just worried about maintenance and how much I should/would have to do myself. As a woman, I know I'm viewed as an easy mark by unscrupulous mechanics. 🙁
@@lisagd22 if you would want a good one that needs little (not none) but little maintenance I would go for one that is for about £4000-£5000 for a good rubber bumper car if you would want a Crome bumper car then about £6000-£7000 but make sure that the price is worth paying and Make sure there is minimal rust on the engine running smoothly and has a soft top if it has a soft top
@@mgmidgetsandme6647 No rubber bumpers for me! 😄 I was looking for fun at what's available within my specifications, and there's one that looks perfect for $6500, but it's 3000 miles away in California. It's really just a pipe dream; I need to put my money toward my meager retirement account.
Rubbish, Fred!! The opposite, if anything - the 'Spridget' was just a 2-seater, sportier version of a Morris 1000, Austin A40 Farina, etc........ cars beloved of district nurses, etc., which HAD to start in the morning & be reliable! The A-series engine would rattle on indefinitely & the later Triumph unit wasn't too bad. Basic, simple British 'agricultural engineering'... I know I've run five different ones, from a '63 Mk.1 to a couple of the 'rubber-bumpered' cars, over nearly 50yrs., as daily transport - winter & summer!!
It’s called British Humour! I found his style and deliverance entertaining and informative. Not many can achieve both! More power to your elbow, Andy!!!
