great video, can I just add having done quite a few of these, on occasion, the pressure in the line, whether pumping the pedal , Eezibleed or whatever, if the bleed nipple is not open enough the piston in the slave cylinder can move and air can stay in the cylinder, clamping the pushrod so it doesn't move usually cures this.
Brilliant. Dave is the man. Where does the clutch fluid pipe run on a right hand drive car? On the left hand drive cars, it runs from the master, up over along the top of the firewall then down to the slave, leaving a great big air bubble in that top hump along the firewall. How do you move the bite point higher? I'm not sure, but a shorter throw rod pushes the slave cylinder less distance, a longer throw rod pushes the slave cylinder more distance. Eh? Maybe? You didn't change the master, so the clutch pedal is traveling the same distance. If the new rod is shorter, then you need a longer rod. STORY OF MY LIFE.
We all need longer rods hahaha. Mine bends straight out of the master in a u turn down the right wing and then straight down vertically to the slave from a pipe into a hose. There's still a kink mind !
@@AndysMGAdventures I also jammed a 1" inner diameter tube over the clutch master fill hole and then pour about a quart of brake fluid in it, then opened the bleeder and blew into the hose to force all that fluid down, to eliminate the huge bubble along the firewall. Not sure that finally got the bubbles out, or the ezbleed and a kid pumping the clutch pedal did it.
Another great video Andy , thanks. I have now bled 2 clutches and also the brakes on my Midget using the Eezibleed thing. It did the job but I thought that the quality of the material was poor. Also changing the caps is not easy as the connection is very short. A mistake I made was putting in a new carpet with underfelt the day before I bled the clutch. I had good pressure at the pedal but was crunching the gears. Turned out I was not getting full pedal travel due to the carpet.
Yup, changing caps would be much easier if the threads were longer. And I'm not overly impressed with materials either, mine leaks air at the bottle on the fluid-out side.
@@afhostie I had to bleed another clutch last week and the thread on the Eezibleed bottle was kaputt. Only used about 5 times. So I screwed the cap straight on to the DOT 4 bottle and no leaks. I will need to lengthen the inner tube though.
I went to see the band Sparks last week in Glasgow. I was amazed to see that the support act was Andy Devine , singing and playing a banjolele. Great act.
Great video Andy👍🏼. Just a question, is it possible to alter whereabouts the clutch biting point is? Or as I suspect it’s just a little bit random? Thanks
Thanks Andy. I have an American MG Midget and I don't like the way the clutch feels. I started out in 1969 with a 1957 MGA then inin 1971 I bought my '62 AH Sprite.Had several different MGB's since... I am now older than dirt (70) and gained many, many pounds and now after multiple strokes, learning to do everything again, I found I hate the thought of replacing my Clutch master and Slave Cylinder. I have the '75 Miget with the 1500 Spitfire engine and Morris Marina gearbox. I was an automobile mechanic for about ten years, but then went another direction after I turned 27. There is nobody that does service work on the Midgets here in Indiana. I even called an MG service not far from me only to find the mechanics wouldn't work on the Midgets and Sprites because the mechanics were all to big!!!! ARggggggg....So now I am faced with doing this myself. Now when I got the car I did many things to it. But I too have fears and must seek professional help to get over my fear of the MG Midget Clutch syndrome.....So thanks for these videos, I realize that your beauty is RH drive but I think the theories are still applicable. Years ago I heard of all of the different issues of bleeding them. My clutch works ok but like yours I don't like the feel, and It is difficult to get the darn thing into Reverse. I think doing a clutch master/slave replacement will help.. Well thanks again. Rick in Indy.
Hey Rick thanks so much for reaching out mate! What a journey you've been on with cars. Im kinda jealous !!! To be honest, I would say don't be worried about the clutch stuff , if I can do it you can do it! Big love from over here in the UK
Andy, did you ever manage to resolve the problem with the clutch only just disengaging and at the bottom of its travel? I have a similar issue with a Mk4 Spite (1968) where I've already replaced both master and slave cylinders, which has been suitably bled. Perhaps a full change of clutch and thrust bearings may be needed.
Hi Mate, i take it you just simply leave the remote bleed kit in place ? do you then close the bleed nipple at the Cylinder or just leave it open and rely on the closed remote nipple?
Ok, did a bunch of pumping while using the eezibleed. I've got a pedal now but like you it only disengages at the very end. Wondering if the motion of the pedal is knocking some of the air bubbles loose.
