simply the most concise depiction of replacing a spring I have ever seen. Cause I have have done them on the ground too many times, as in next Sunday :)
Great video again Steve. I have a bit of tool envy going on but now I’ve seen how it’s done I feel confident enough to check out my leaf springs and bushes over the winter while my B is off the road.
You make it look easy 🙂 I would have been worried about that piece of teflon springing out and hitting me in the face so would have worn some sort of face protection. In fact I would probably have used a piece of wood with a hole drilled through where the bolt sticks out. The rest looks safe to me so not sure what others are commenting about. Thanks for sharing what you do and leaving yourself open to criticism. Graham
Excellent instruction and camera work. Perfect timing too as it's an upcoming project on my 68. Upgrading the roadster to GT springs. Love your shop. Thank you.
Interesting and informative as always. The consensus over at the MG Experience from the guys who race MGB's is that the car performs best with stiffer front springs but stock or slightly softer rear.
Generally lifts where you can drive on have an extra hydraulic jack with them so you could free up the wheels. They're still a bit cumbersome, but great for bigger vehicles. Great video and by the way I have seen many guys eagerly waiting for Old Rusty, but I just want to say that I'm thoroughly enjoying all the projects you've taken on.
Restoring my 72 MGB roadster and about to tackle the same activity. Stumbled across your video. Great explanation and camera work. I know first hand thru my own RU-vid channel (MaggiesMakeover) that it takes 3 time longer to do anything on the car given that you have to not only be the mechanic, but the videographer as well as the actor. Well done sir and you picked up another subscriber.
Thanks, I will have a look at your channel... Indeed it takes a lot of time if you are the actor, the worker, cameraman, and the editor all in one.....
Greasing those springs is absolutely worth the effort , they move freer and is one of those things that add to the competitive edge , all the tiny things added together make the difference !
Replaced my rear shocks on a 72 MGB GT, Gaz adjustables, with new saddles, u bolts, pads, spring rubbers and bolts. Hardest part was getting the drivers side top shock bolt screwed in, mind you it was getting dark, started to rain heavy, (that heavy i had to roll under the car for 20 minutes to keep dry) my neck was hurting as hell and ohh and trying to do it all in the pub car park.
It looks like your mgb may have had trailing arms at some point. I see another mounting hole below the spring eye mount? I have an orange 3.9 v8 also. Great fun. Love your videos.
When I got my mgb gt some one had done the rear springs but had not tightened the U bolts enough when you put your foot down it had rear steering very scary tightened was all ok check your U bolts if back end feels floaty
I love your videos and thank you for posting this one! But if possible it might be worth doing over again in a safer manner. I worry someone who is younger and less experienced may try to perform this task and injure themselves. Again your videos are amazing and I love the channel! Would just love to see the work done for a broader audience.
Thank you for the comments, I am not sure what was unsafe in this video as the car was on a lift , the rear axle supported. Can you tell us what else could be done to make it even more secure ? Having the car on a good quality stand ( both sides), supporting the with an additional jack or stand the rear axle on the side you are working on and at last a smaller jack to jack up that spring... Should be fine as long as people pay attention. I have seen people lossing a finger when working on coil springs...
@@michaelmenard8913 , Wel you have a point.... You need tools but all by all its two stands ( which most have) and two jacks... to work safely... No need for a lift.... It will take a bit longer and yes you will need to get partial under the car but from the side...
I was wondering if the “long bolt” method could have been used or perhaps a speciality tool to ensure/guarantee that if someone were to not align everything perfectly nothing happens. Even a chain perhaps when all else fails as a secondary safety precaution. Just food for thought.. You are an amazing source of knowledge and I’m learning so much watching your videos!! Thank you once again!
@@D3Sshooter I find many on the mg and mitsu montero sites, that few have acually spun wrenches. And you show and explain exaclty how a leaf set is changed.And that can only be done when someone has actually done it. Some are adept at it, and others not. ie, we have a term in US, 'there is a difference between a mechanic, and a parts replacer' And you sir are a true mechanic ! Do you actually have a website to send an email to? I have heard of cases where one could remove a smaller leaf, and flip the #2 leaf 180° This is more competion directed.
Fantastic video, very informative! I also have the Spax suspension on my MGB. Do you ever find the need to replace the bush at the bottom of the yellow suspension strut?
just rewatching this evening and noticed that you U bolts seem to be a bit more substantial than stock? I had some made local that were larger diameter and it seemed to tighten up the rear a bit. I also eliminated the silicone pads.
Asking for your help: I’ve got a ‘73 MGB with 2 SU (HIF4) carbs… At startup, choke-on, underneath the rear Skinner Union are fumes coming off the exhaust pipe- I’m thinking it’s a gas leak from the carb to the hot pipe? But, when the choke is off, no fumes. When running, no fumes. At idle after a drive, no fumes. Can the choke-on at startup cause my SUs to leak? Thank you, Neil Shovlin a Subscriber.
Thankyou for sharing. This job is one of my most least liked and many hours spent using the same methodology but using jack stands. I have standard springs on my 65 and no matter what I did to jack up the supporting plate there wasn't enough length on the u-bolts. Mine looked aged and I'm wondering if they are the correct length. Is there anywhere (or perhaps you know) what the length of yr U-bolts are from center of radius to end of thread so that I can check mine and perhaps order replacements? Many thanks again for your informative video!
Thank you for this. I have watched many of your videos because I simply enjoy your style and content. I am doing front and rear suspension bushings, lever shock rebuild, and new rear springs on my MGB roadster this winter, this video is very helpful. How do you know how much to tighten the nuts on the U-bolts? I'm guessing there is a torque value I could look up.
Awesome, thank you! there is no torque value in the manual as far as I could tell , so I use common sense , as you do want to destroy the rubber padding..
I like the idea of the orange MG GT utilising the rear hatch for aerodynamics slightly at the exact time... Who am I kidding I cant wait for after market Tesla thrusters... Hahahaah
Car up on jack stands, laying on your back on the cold concrete garage floor, dirty parts, tools always just out if reach, cold hands, sore back and neck - doesn't seem to resemble the video at all!
A single leaf has to be stronger than multi leaf if you think about it. That’s why American muscle cars often have them. The advantage is no friction between the leaves. The Rover V8 isn’t very powerful anyway
I wondered about that, too, but if you look closely, you can see the droop strap is already at maximum extent, so no more downwards movement for the axle.
I did, the only issues are the straps and the exhaust pipe, the straps are at max length and the pipe was in the way. Besides the fact that you don't want to bend the other side ( spring still in place)