Hi, Thanks for the great video. Not exactly 100% sure on this but you put the black thrust washer on the outside of the a-arm. I think a lock washer goes there instead and always thought the thrust washer went inside the rubber protection cap on the inside of the a-arm. You can see the thrust washer on the outside of the a-arm at about the 15 minute mark. When I did mine, I had a tough time because the repair kits are not always correct leading to incorrect tolerances. I ended up buying several kits and re-using my old thru bolt. Your videos are great, well presented, and appreciated.
As I was saying, I couldn’t see how you joined the universal joint , that is what I’m having an issue with ! You did mention earlier that the upper steering rod bolts would loosen to help in the joining ?? Didn’t see that part ! It would have helped a lot ! Anyway, very informative . Thank
Thank you for a wonderful Sunday, a morning watching football and then this 4 part series, binged watched. As always thanks for the brilliant educational videos.
I've just found your channel and Subscribed, cheers for the content 👍 I've just restored a 'Bracken' 1974 MGB GT and your video's will help me tweak it, Thanks...
Love the videos! Currently restoring an MGB and have an MK Indy which is a bit like your Dax. I think things are much easier in the UK for these cars though.
And I wrote off a tvr 3000 in the 80s after he lost the back end on a curve and spun in front of me. I was driving an Alfasud and for me it wasn't a bend🤣
Asking for your help: I’ve got a ‘73 MGB with 2 SU (HIF4) carbs… At startup, choke-on, underneath the rear Skinner Union are fumes coming off the exhaust pipe- I’m thinking it’s a gas leak from the carb to the hot pipe? But, when the choke is off, no fumes. When running, no fumes. At idle after a drive, no fumes. Can the choke-on at startup cause my SUs to leak? Thank you, Neil Shovlin a Subscriber. PS New bushes are next up for my B.
When is 5? I tried getting some toe in by turning the rods from RP. But think i might have to pop tierod end and crank it, as pipewrench is not turning rod ?
Thanks for the comments, well that is hard to say . Of course they will get hot with a lot of braking like on a track. To prevent it or reduce the heat, install a vented disc ( unless you have that already), and a vent hose feeding cool air from the front scope and blown on the brakes. If you have very hot callipers without racing the car then you might have brake pads that stick to the disc, that will cause that issue. Here you could have the wrong thickness of the discs, the wrong spacers on the brake callipers or even faulty or wrong barke callipers..
The way you install the trunnion/upright into the a-arm is not correct in the video. The black washers you are using on the outside of the a-arms are actually thrust washers, that go inside the silver cupped washer. This I very critical, as they are there so that the distance tube inside the trunnion can move freely inside the bush. Also, the length of the distance tube relative to the width of the trunnion is a critical measurement as it sets your end float on the bottom trunnion. What you want to do, is to correct the position of the thrust washers, and then tighten the trunnion to the a-arm without the upright being mounted to the shock absorber, (or in your case Costello bracket) this way you can determine if the end float is correct (if the upright moves up and down freely you are usually good, but if it gets pinched you need to correct either the length of the distance tube or the width of the trunnion - manufactures often gets this wrong!)
