My car was lowered and had tube shocks installed. I prefer to try the engineered specification version Lever Shocks. So I obtain a used set and purchased new link arms. So before installing them I decided to change the oil.
Hi peter Thanks for posting this ...interesting stuff 👍 I have a 1969 mgb that needs a bit of front shock TLC and this is very helpfull (I'm originally from Scotland in the uk but living in Germany ,Europe) Happy to have found your channel 😀
Another thing you can do is to work on both rear shocks together and by hanging a weight off the arm do a timed full drop test. Then by adjusting the viscosities in each get full drop to occur simultaneously. Much as you might do to syncronise SU carbs.
This is a relatively easy project for any car with lever shocks, even including the removal and refitting, and the benefits are immediately felt when you drive it. My Midget went from mooshy wallowing ride to nice and stiff. In fact, I did rears first, then fronts, and the front was wallowy when the rear was nice and stiff, made for an interesting ride. But once the front oils were replaced, it balanced the ride right out. Took less time than you would think too. Maybe 15 minutes to remove, 15 to change the oil, 15 to refit?
Two questions: Do you completely fill the shock with oil or leave air space? When you install the shock do have to tighten the lever bolts with the suspension compressed?
Do you recommend replacing the valve? I see the “improved” valve on Moss. BTW I have a 1974 MGB 70,000 on it mostly original ( I put a new top on and master cylinder). Thank you
Yes it is. YUou can drain it and there is a hole with a cover in the back over the shock that allows you access to fill from the inside. It is a bit difficult but yes, you can do that.
