Good video but I only watched it because I was hoping you had the part number for the crush washers. I screamed in frustration when I looked in the write up for the part number and you list "Don't know the exact size, but you can get it from the local dealer." I spent 15 minutes at my useless Mazda dealers parts desk today for him to tell me that he couldn't find the part number. Yes he actually said that. So many comments went through my head but I just lamely muttered "you have to be kidding" then left. None of the online parts stores seem to list it either, you can buy the whole transmission for $1800 but not the crush washer to change the fluid. It's going to be so annoying to drain the transmission then go to a auto parts store with the old gasket to match it up with a new one.
If it's a 24mm, it's an M16-size. Grab yourself a kit with a whole bunch of them off Amazon (I suspect it's the 22mm OD from the vid @ 6:37) or buy them in bulk from McMaster Carr so you don't have to deal with blank stares.
@@clutchkick9169 gearbox and diff plugs aluminum crush washer size is 24 x18 x 1.5 mm. Check any hydraulic eqquipment store, they should have these sealers on stock. I do recommend to use these washers as intended: single use. Very cheap life insurance for very expensive drive train components. Engine oil drain plug is copper crush washer 20 x 14 x 1.5 mm
Aluminum crush washer size is 24 x 18 x 1.5 mm. If your mazda dealer can't help you (crazy enough) check a website of a hydraulic equipment store like where they sell big lawn mowers or so or other hydraulic equipment. You will need 4 washers when you do your diff oil change also. When you get a high quality 75W90 manual gearbox oil with a GL4 ( gearbox, not diff!) or GL5 ( gearbox & diff) spec or a GL3/GL4/GL5 ( gearbox & diff) spec ( exactly as written here!) it is fine. Again, do not put a 75W90 GL4 spec in your diff. Hydraulic equipment store should have these washers on stock since it is a pretty standard seal washer for hydraulic lines. It may also be cheaper than at your mazda dealership 😉. And yes I do suggest to NOT re-use these washers since they are designed for SINGLE use. You can not afford loss of gearbox or diff oil 😟. And the diff fill plug is 23 mm while diff drain plug is 24 mm. This is to ensure you put the drain plug with the magnetic shavings catcher in the proper opening.
Great video! Good advice from the commenters suggesting removing the fill plug first! For the fussy among us, the mid-torque specs are 36 lb-ft for both the fill and drain plugs and 17 lb-ft for the tunnel brace. If using a crowfoot adapter, set the torque wrench to 32 lb-ft to compensate for the resulting longer lever arm.
Excellent Video; however, I had trouble finding info on Automatic Transmission fluid changes. On the Manual Trans. there are Fill and Drain bolt (top-Bottom 23mm and 24mm) BUT on an Automatic Transmission there is a 24mm Top fill bolt (on the side) and a regular Transmission Pan drain plug "under" the transmission with a 9/16 bolt. Also the Side Top Fill bolt has a "rubber" washer gasket (NOT a crush washer) so just snug it to keep it drain coming out (wouldn't torque it hard). My 2007 Car Manual calls for JWS-3309 Trans fluid and I found three types on EBAY/Amazon...Mazda Fluid, Aisin ATF-OT4 and Idemitsu ATF Type M. Also the Automatic Transmission takes three and 1/2 quarts to fill. The rear Differential has two bolts 23mm fill and 24mm drain (both with crush washers and torqued to 25-33 ft lbs). I used Redline 75w90 gear oil..took less than 1 quart.
I second the comment made by MegaCoolcute below....it is essential to loosen the fill plug "FIRST" before draining all your trans oil and possibly not being able to refill it if the fill bolt is stripped or damaged. Work smart...not hard.
Great detailed video! One thing I would add (sorry, not sure if it's already been mentioned) is that you should loosen the fill bolt 1st to make sure you can get it off. If you drain the fluid and then are unable to remove the fill bolt... well, let's just say you'll have a whole new set of issues! Lol! Thanks again for the videos!
excellent video; you open the fill port first to ensure you can fill it, nobody should really care about the speed of draining, it's all about preventing disaster if the gb is emptied and you can't fill it because the fill plug is broken because gorilla diyers exist ;)
Great video! My only concern is using Mazda's fluid. Walter Motorsports has pretty extensive and detailed information as to why we should avoid it. In the Miata community, folks out there who are knowledgeable about these issues are using Motul or Ford fluids. It's a very interesting topic to read if anyone is interested. It includes plenty of research.
That is a very debated subject and honestly it doesn’t matter as much as you think it does. But the most chosen oils out there are mobile one, royal purple, amsoil and motul.
Hi Daniel, thanks for this video. I did my first transmission oil change today, the second one is going to take a while. It was helpful to watch your video again prior to actually doing it. There is one practical experience I would like to add, since you did not mention it in your video. Maybe it is the specific MX5 ND 2.0 160 hp of jan 2018 that I own, but the metal cross member that should be removed for better access is not the only thing that must be unbolted. The metal cross member on my car is connected front and back to 2 black plastic cover plates. These are bolted with 10 mm bolts. So, having on you only the 12 mm socket (and of course the 24 mm ring or open ended wrench for the drain and fill plugs) is not going to do the job. Thought this might be good to know. As you said in your video, this transmission oil change is fairly easy. Contrary to what I normally do, I went to a do it yourself garage and had the luxury of a car lifting bridge. Worked better than crawling underneath the car. Because this transmission oil change is due perhaps once every 5 years, I thought I'd spoil myself a bit.
I have a 2016 Miata with an automatic transmission that requires 7.6 quarts of transmission fluid, would I be able to drain out all 7.6 with a change or would only a certain amount come out?
I can’t say for sure on the Miata because I’ve never done an ATF swap on one, but a lot of auto transmissions will not drain completely because fluid trapped in the cooling lines. In this case it would be best to determine how much came out and only put that much in.