Your video is bit misleading. You are pushing the Bowden to hotend, at the same time as you cut the extruder end of Bowden tube. Some might misunderstand that the end that goes in to hotend should be cut sharp, which is wrong. But hey great video again.
@@AllTheNamesWereInUse If you watch closely the cut end went in the extruder...not the hotend. You have to take the tube all the way out of both ends in order to cut it. The hotend always needs to be flush so you don't get heat creep.
If you watch closely the cut end went in the extruder...not the hotend. You have to take the tube all the way out of both ends in order to cut it. The hotend always needs to be flush so you don't get heat creep.
I just installed this part a couple days ago. 130 is a good place to start on the Estes adjustment. I did a calibration and found 140 is where I needed to be. Would recommend doing a calibration of e-steps after install.
I bought and fitted the MS all metal hotend and all was well for a couple of months and then the Bowden tube kept riding up out of the collet whch was worn and was causing bad layers so I bought a replacement and the same eventually happened to that one, so I got my friend to machine the hole with a thread and make a screw in conversion fitting so I could screw in a compression fitting, that was two tears ago and all is still well
The stock extruder is one of the biggest issues on pretty much every Creality machine that comes with one. This looks like a sweet option. I went with the Micro Swiss direct drive kit on mine, could not be happier. These guys make GREAT quality gear!
I completely agree. Since I bought the Ender 3 V2, it suffered from considerable under-extrusion. Tried different kinds of hacks, including adjusting the extruder screw but with no results. However, yesterday I installed a cheap aliexpress dual gear aluminium extruder, and it now prints perfectly.
The stock extruder on the cr6se cracks and hangs up as a result. Sure you can just buy another $20 extruder but why if they keep cracking. It's mostly plastic, though they should update the design to be more robust imo
Your video is fantastic, but I am still failing to get mine to work properly. The video makes it look like you are supposed to bevel not just the end that goes into the extruder, but also the hotend.....is this correct or incorrect? I have just beveled the end that goes into the extruder. I have changed retraction distance and speed as Micro Swiss recommends. I am using it on an AnyCubic Vyper. I have been struggling with it for months. The red extruder knob is lightly popping, like the filament has too much pressure....maybe the nozzle isn't hot enough to push it through? I always use the exact temp recommended on each filament. I have even tried printing at 25% speed with PLA and the knob still jumps and extrusion is sparse and eventually stops flowing. I would GREATLY appreciate any help with this matter...OH YEAH PS-- On the Micro Swiss FAQ for Extruder Installation there is a ESTEPS GCODE file. The directions say: Download the MS_DD_ESTEPS.gcode and then print it on your printer as you would with any other GCode that you've sliced yourself. The GCode file sets the Esteps to 130 and saves the setting. I can download it, but when I send it to the printer nothing happens. I feel like such a BOZO.....please help me out HIVE MIND!
This is a great video! I am wondering though, I have the CR 6 Max. I was about to switch my extruder out. But the cabling looks a bit different. Is this one only compatible with the CR 6 SE? I thought the main deference between the two was just the build plate size.
Anyone know of any files for creating a clip to keep hot end wiring out of the way of the print bed that would clip to this extruder in a non-obstructive way? I found a file for my old 1 gear all metal got end I had on my ender 3 v2, but that clip I printed doesn’t work for this.
I bought a metal dull drive extruder as an upgrade for my anycubic vyper but the motor gear doesn’t fit the stepping motor. The micro swiss has been recommended to me, but don’t I just need to replace the motor gear ? Can you please tell me what gear I should replace it with? Newbie to printing so any help appreciated thanks. The rest of the extruder fits okay.
I put one on my cr s10 pro v2 and changed the e-steps and everything But mixture keeps making clicking noise and I've tried adjusting the screw knob No matter what I do it keeps clicking
I don't know if it's just me or what but ever since I loaded the firmware that is suppose to show you the thumbnail of the gcode. My machine is not the same. The screen looked almost the same as yours. But I downloaded the original file from Creality's website and reinstalled that. But now, every now and then the hot end carriage runs into the stopper and vibrates like it wants to go through the switch. Also the display not only shows the files in the root but also the directories I have on the SD Card for old gcodes. Also when the file name is very long it does funny stuff like starting in the completely wrong place. Can you help getting my Ender 3v2 back to its old self. I have the 422 bord.
9:16 I marked the orientation of the tubing so that my cut was aligned as the tube was naturally sitting before. Handle the tube carefully as the marker pen rubs off very easily; you don't want this to happen until after the cut is made
I haven't seen anything from MicroSwiss about their "Next Generation Direct Drive Extruder" since late September. Have you heard or seen anything about that yet?
@@ModBotArmy I'm definitely hesitant on that new design. I've only seen the one picture sofar. Hopefully you can get a preproduction or early sample and make a video on that near release.
@@emersonsims9503 if you're careful you can cut the tube from it and open the nut with a pair of tweezers....i've done it in the past when in a jam and never had any issues......only place i've been able to find the correct size compression nuts are directly from micro-swiss themselves
I can answer this! I bought a cheap $10 dual gear on Amazon for my CR6 SE and no matter how I tensioned the spring it just shredded my filament. Upon further review it was clear as day that the filament hole wasn’t aligned properly and it was causing the filament to twist against the gears and just shred to bits. American made accuracy doesn’t have this problem at all. It’s also, overall, a better install process for the MS extruder top.
Nice one, but... to buy an ender 3 and spend a fortune upgrading it doesn't make much sense to me.. Better off, save the cash and buy a decent CoreXY printer and that's it. Fitting almost 50 quid of extruder on 200 quid printer is just mad..
Different stokes. There are many that enjoy nodding and upgrading as much as buying a turnkey solution. Part of it is the choice of what upgrades they want to do to make their printer unique to them and their needs. I see both sides. I have purchased 200 dollar printers and spent the same amount on upgrades but when they are done I find them as reliable if not more than some of the pricier options. 3D printing is just not a one shoe fits all technology.
@@ModBotArmy I'm definitely one of those ;-D I've built two of my printers and have to admit, bought a chinese 4020/2020 extrusion printer as well... Tinkering all the time with different components, combinations, firmware tweaks, you name it. That's the part of the hobby, isn't it. But sometimes if you're not careful, these things can turn into a money pit. Anyway, thumbs Up for your channel!!
Yeah but you have to start somewhere. I've started with an Ender 3, and while I have spent far too much money on it , it's all been a great learning experience. I really doubt someone starting with a core xy kit is a recommended path!
@@marijuanas I started with an old i3 Mk2 clone I got from a friend, that needed some touches here and there, and in the process printed the parts and built two more customised i3's. Rather than printing cubes and benchies wasting filament, i was printing spare parts. 'Cmon lads, if you want to know how something works, especially in the hobby land, you need a kit. And with the help of channels like this one, you'll get printing in no time. As far as the coreXY kits go, a "Flying Bear 5" is a really reasonable offer, a little bit above the Ender3 price mark. We live in the absurd times where everyone seeks instant gratification, but really, you need to put some effort into learning how things work.