a lot of CF nylons or other filled filaments will clog with a 0.4 nozzlee over time, several vendors recommend using at LEAST a 0.6mm nozzle in ordere to allow enough room for larger fibers to escape the nozzle. You'll find it takes about 3kg for 3dxtech CF nylon to completely clog a 0.4mm nozzle with basically pure carbon stuck in it.
Yeah. I'm rocking a 0.4 nozzle with some CF Nylon, and it's been almost impossible with anything that isn't just a test. Any kind of retraction, it seems, is instant jam.
When replacing nozzles, keep a ceramic bowl under the print head so it can only drop into the bowl, not onto the bed or the floor. Also, if you have the time, you can heat it up, loosen it off, let it cool, replace the nozzle, heat it up, tighten it up.
I print a lot with Carbon Fiber Nylon (and CF PolyCarbonate). Functional parts mostly, for robotic components, even parts for vehicles (motorcycle). Recently, I managed to print Ultem9085 and CF-PEEK on my (significantly modified) CR-10. You covered it up pretty well, I'd just add few things for CF-Nylon and for anyone wanting to go over 300C (CF-PC): - If you print a lot with CF, get a Ruby nozzle - it'll pay it self off very quickly! Some types of CF-Nylon have up to 30% of Carbon Fibers and that will destroy brass nozzle within an hour or even the hardened steel nozzle within a days. - To go over 300C, I use BP6 HotEnd with High Temp Heat Break (black hexagonal) and PT1000. But there are some new Hot Ends (NF-Crazy V6 Magnum & Dragon V6) that should work even better. I personally don't like MicroSwiss. - Consider Direct Drive Extruder, especially if you get High Temp Heat Break - To go over 120C bed temp, I highly recommend AC bed heater - For 300C+ Hot End, don't print mount (or anything else around it) in PLA or PETG, it will fail very quickly, it might even melt. I use SLA printer for such parts and Phrozen TR250 + Siraya Tech Blue resin mix.
All great points! Is it safe to assume the Vanadium nozzle is better than a ruby nozzle? Seeing so many bad reviews of the ruby. But then again, probably by inexperienced users. www.sliceengineering.com/collections/nozzles
Which Direct Drive & Dual Drive / mounts etc do you recommend for Ender 3 (Pro). Well really Ender 3 V2, but too new, may have to get a Ender 3 backplate to use established mounts.
@@timd9430 I printed probably couple of kilos of Carbon Fiber and Glass Fiber with 0.8 Ruby Nozzle, and it spits out anything I feed to it. No problem and no signs of deterioration. Haven't tried Vandium yet.. Double sided Fulament PEI sheet: looks interesting, I'll try it. Thanks for a tip! Magnets: Yeah, stay away from them, I already had a lot of problem with AC heater interfering with EZABL. Extruder: I have some cheap copy of Bondtech BMG, but it works quite well. I had zero issues, pushing PEEK and Ultem, it all went incredibly smooth.. @ 350 C and 400 C And if I had the jams, it was usually when material gets retracted from High Temp Heat Break into PTFE which is just slightly wider and then it cools down and it doesn't wanna push it back.. and that's usually with materials that you should even print with HT break (like PLA). I'm trying now tiny o-2mm/O-3mm steel tube between Extruder and Heat Break, instead of PTFE, we'll see how that works..
Garolite sheets can be purchased at many of large plastic companies on-line if you want to make several (they come in like 4' x 4' sheets). It will have a spec sheets which will tell you temp it can handle. Industrial supply companies (like Grainger) stock smaller sheets (like 12" x 12" for $12, 24" x 24" for $36). Garolite has a few different specs G-10, G-11, CE which you can search on as well.
I like your video, it teaches how to use this material in a not so Nylon-CF ready printer. The problem is the printed part, it creates the idea that you need such an expensive and difficult to print material for something light and not so demanding. The chosen part helps perpetuate the idea that functional parts need these materials. Let me explain a bit more in detail. Before getting my own 3D printer I watched several videos using Nylon-CF for some functional applications. Since my 3D printer is mostly a complement to my hobby machine shop I thought that PLA was useful only for toys and that kind of stuff, really nothing appealing to me. In fact that is one reason I waited years to get a 3d printer, I did not want to spend money and the hassle of adding another expensive hobby to my list. So when the time came I got a Bambu Lab X1-Carbon. Among other things because I know I will be printing a lot of technical stuff where "relatively tight" tolerances are necessary and some engineering materials as well. I also talked to some people and they dispelled several concerns about PLA. PLA is great for a lot of things, basically most objects sitting indoors and away from heat and direct sunlight can be done in PLA. PLA is cheap, prints easy and can be used for so many functional things. Honestly that bracket printed in PLA will do just fine, no need to use such an expensive material for something sitting in your family room that will hold at most ten pounds of weight. As a demonstration that is OK, I liked the video, but sometimes it creates the illusion that other materials are not that good for said "functional" parts. I would not print it in PLA if I planed to use it outside or for a heavy item or something that can create a safety hazard if the part fails (like a mirror which can be heavy and dangerous). I was expecting a lot of printing with ABS, ASA, CA-CF, etc. So far I find myself using PLA most of the time. If a part needs more strength I just increase the infill and change the infill pattern to make prints stronger.
As a noob, this was great info -- my Ender 3 is still in a box (my first 3D printer) ... it's my winter project, just learning as much now as I can so thank you for spending your time to inform noobs like me. Appreciated!
Hi, you asked about using nylonx . A friend of mine runs a museum for vintage slot machines. They got a used machine in and it was broken. Its front panel was actually a door that accessed the coin box and electronics. I\The door is very heavy (probably around 30 pounds). The machine is old and no parts could be found for it. The broken part was one of the hinges that holds the panel. Someone had made a very crude hinge that sort of worked, but I thought i could do better. I bought a reel of NYLONX and started to design a new part. It took a couple of tries, but I finally made a hinge that looked great and worked well. The hardest part about printing with the Nylon was to keep it form warping. I used a blck trash bag and it worked terrifically.
Just wanted to throw in my input. I print almost exclusively NylonX and your settings are pretty close honestly. The only thing I suggest is.... Printing on glass I just use AquaNet hairspray. I use this for all filament types on all of my printers. The raft is not necessary at least it never has been for me. The only time I have ever experienced warping was when I tried to print 100% infil. Printing at 15-30% infil has never given me any warping. I print everything at 3 layers outside, top, bottom. 70mm/s and 15mm/s starting. My retraction is slightly different but that depends on printer. Also never ever ever run your part cooling fan (on NylonX), this could also be part of your warping. I noticed your part cooling fan going. Overall excellent video and would have been very helpful if I saw this a few years ago when I first started printing this stuff.
@ModBot Also if I can add, Nylon, Polyamid in general, is sensitive to moisture you said it, but not only out of the box. Every parts will capture moisture after the process, approx 200hrs for maximum moisture absorbtion (depending on the environment). The Nylon, obtain full mechanical characteristics when its full of its moisture capacity (between 2 and 10% of the mass), and, has an incidence on dimentional (more shrink at 0% humidity). Because of that, if you do a stress test on your speakers hooks for exemple, one right after printing and the other after 200Hrs (less if you put it in correct percentage of water), pretty sure that the straight out of printer one if approx 4 times weaker (fragile) As FDM is a laminating process, I'm wondering about the impact of moisture between layers versus an injection part... Sorry for the long story, good video man!
@@psychot6859 I don't know why you would do that because, as I said, if the part is "dry", it will have approx 25% of the strengh advertised in the specsheet (in theory). If you really want to seal it I guess a resin or a primer (pretty elastic) would do the job...
I think I may have read your post wrong. I thought you meant if it was DRY it would be stronger. You actually said it would be stronger AFTER it had absorbed water. That was where I made the oops.
During a period of selling industrial plastics to factories and custom fabricators, a new "know it all" customer didn't want any advice on choosing a plastic for a specific application of bushings. We recommended not to use nylon because the bushings were going to be getting sprayed with water. He insisted. OK. A few days later he calls in furious we sold him some "stuff" that broke his steel drive shaft. The nylon enlarged from the water and the shaft seized and torqued itself to death. He was sure no plastic could do that because all plastics were "weak" in his mind. Nitwit.
You nailed it....... it's now April and on average my humidity is around 50% inside and outside. I run 2 whole house dehumidifier. And Yes I need to print out a few tiny hand sockets for my 8 and 9mm sockets so I can screw on and take off my nozzels from the printer. Also Nylon is perfect when enforced as a door stopper spring shaped as a bigger D clipped over the door itself. It prevents the door handle from leaving a big hole in the door.
I've never used an enclosure on my Ender 3 Pro while printing Nylon and I've never had any problems. No warping, adhesion problems, etc. Nylon has become my favorite plastic to print, actually. I did try one time to use an enclosure and it kept my motherboard and motor drivers so hot that I got a layer shift.
I know it's been months but you should know that melting Nylon puts out toxic gases that need to be vented out actively. It's highly suggested, if not required, to have your printer in an enclosure for printing with Nylon.
Walmart sells a gluestick for kids that is washable, and it works perfectly for 3d printing... after I´m done, I just wash the bed with a sponge and soap, and then displace all the water and soap with 91% Isopropyl alcohol (sold at Walmart too)... Then the bed is ready for my next print in no time... These are all major brands, so you´ll find this stuff at Target or other stores...
You should mention printing with a .6 sized nozzle is a better choice for stronger prints with nylon x. Matterhackers explains this on their "successfully printing with nylon x" page. Other than that, great video
Thanks for this video - just came back now to re-watch and see if there was anything I might have missed since a year ago. I've been printing with nylonX a fair bit now and love it. The first big project was a carb hat for an odd sized (100mm) blow-thru [turbo] carburetor setup for a Mazda 12A rotary engine which worked beautifully. Now I'm working on an EFI conversion for the same vehicle and using this material as the main body to house a TBI setup. Looking forward to getting it all set up and working. The abilities of this material are honestly impressive (especially when considering its solvent resistance). I've even used it for 3D printed venturis with great results. Thanks again for the informative video.
How well did that carb hat hold up in the engine bay? I can’t wait to start some projects with this filament and it seems to be a beauty to print with. Merci et au revoir mon ami!
@@swankscabinet1625 I ran it for four months or so over this past summer at 6-10psi and it held up great. It did flex a little though with just one bolt in the center holding it down - I used some 3mm o-ring cord to seal it and every once in a while it would blow out, so some further reinforcement up top would be worth looking into. The TBI setup is actually nearly complete now (and thus taking the carb hat out of service), just a little more wiring and some small things to do before it (hopefully) fires up.
I haven't even purchased a 3d printer yet, but I already thought "this guy knows his stuff", so I subscribed, I'll definitely need this awsome channel later.
Lol at the part about nozzles being cheap... 20 dollars for a tiny piece of steel is not cheap my friend !! Its a ripoff quite frankly.. But they know they have you cornered as its not like your'e going to make your own.. Now I'm fully aware that an company's aim is to generate money but I guess all im saying is.. It probably costs about 30 cents to make a nozzle..
I'm gonna use this, or carbon fiber filled polycarb, to build a third version of my 3d printed longboard probably. Tips for people who, like me, are crazy about speed and high strength: - Print just a little bit hotter than normal - make your extrusion width about 125-150 percent of your nozzle size - keep a .12 or .16 layer height - add more walls, floors, and ceilings - get a corexy and print at 150mm/s - when retractions aren't enough because of your stupid fast speeds, use the cura "outer wall wipe" to its fullest extent bada bing bada boom, you're as crazy as I am now.
I stuck the sticker half of a magnetic bed set to a glass bed to magnetize it to my preexisting magnetic bed sticker, these fridge magnet type sheets are directional one way they attract to each extremely well...too well for something inflexible such as glass, but if you rotate them 90 degrees they still attract but not as well absolutely perfect for the bed to be removable but stay steadfast and actually use all of the 235mm
I think the problem with nylon with moisture issues is that the initial moisture might have seeped deep in to the roll and it may take longer to dry to get the moisture from deeper in the spool. just a theory.
printed nylon with the stock hotend with absolutely no degredation (or discoloring or even smell) from the teflon. and I check that little bugger every 10 hours. easy to replace the insert too, so im gonna stick with teflon inserts rather than the headaches every single full metal hotend ive ever used has given me with clogging (and the heat throat stays cold, so it's not heat creep. the cooling fan is pretty powerful.)
Super thanks for this video!!!!! I was over planning the worktable/heat box of my ender to print NylonX. I thought I really needed the heated volume, but I see how you can just get going with it. Yes, a heat box will probably help but know I know it is not expressly necessary. Thanks!!
How is the esun CF nylon for warping? Have been tempted to get some. I printed some nylon 6 a little while ago and after I removed it from the build plate it would slowly warp
I'd argue the carbon fiber helps against warping a little, I've had pretty good success with a brim if the contact to the bed is very small. also printed a hero me mount and fan duct no issues
Great video ! I find if you take a larger screw driver with a slighly rubbery/soft~ish handle and wack the part, it pops off the bed quite nicely when using glue stick. I have a 6 piece set of hex ball drivers that have slighly rubbery handles works nicely since I can hit a little harder than I normally would with a solid plastic handle without damaging my parts. If you're printing something in PETG this isn't an issue since that stuff is virtually indestructable, you can just swing at those with a baseball bat !(Please don't do this, you might damage your good baseball bat!)
I got a pack of 3 hardened steel nozzles from Bangood for £5 and they are just as good as the MS ones, I can't tell the difference of print quality as there isn't one, I printed flow in the dark PLA and carbon fibre parts
To anyone doing any sanding, filing or cutting. Wear gloves and protective gear. Just like glass fibers or any other, carbon fiber strands on skin cause serious itching/skin damage and the stuff doesn't come off even after weeks of scrubbing and cleaning... I've heard of some people reporting that there's still carbon fiber strands in their skin observable under a microscope years later
Best video i could find on the subject. NylonX seems like an interesting material for many different applications. I imagine worlds more useful then PLA.
Thanks mate you just taught me heaps and I didn't know much at all about printing Nylon and now I feel comfortable in giving it a crack. Thanks again. +1 sub
Will love to see you make a Lower Receiver for any Glock model pistol made out of this carbon fiber nylon .you do a much better job explaining then other channels
Can you just imagine? If each one of your viewers sent you just one dollar for viewing your excellent videos.... over $8,000,000.00 dollars!! Cool thought!!
After replacing the hotend, do you have to update the firmware to go above 260C? Does the Thermistor need replacement? No one really mentions these things... More internet magic.
I know this is a few months old, but you didn’t get a reply so I figured I’d give it a go. Yes if your firmware prevents you from going above 260c, then you’ll need to compile Marlin yourself with the correct settings and flash it. Luckily Marlin comes with great starter config files for Creality printers like the Ender 3 and CR-10, so you shouldn’t have to change much, but if you’re not familiar at all with software development it can definitely be difficult the first time. You’ll also need to do some basics like PID tuning after flashing the new firmware. The stock thermistor should be fine up to around 300c so there should be no need to change it to print at these temps.
@@einsteinx2 Update: I now have 2 x CR-10S Pro V2's. Both of them with updated firmware. Capable of 285 on one and 300+ on the other. I have printed some small parts in PC. I tried compiling my own firmware but, end up with many errors. I found 2 variations of firmware that are working for my printers.
@@JDccc26 glad to hear you were able to get up an running with high temp materials! Yeah custom Marlin builds are definitely not for the faint of heart if you don’t have a software development background, so I’m glad to hear you found working pre-built firmware!
@@deniellemondesire7080 It's best to find a FB or Discord group that maybe able to help. You would need a custom build. There are examples on Marlin's GitHub page. It's hard for the CR-10S Pro as there there isn't a working example. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Creality
I have been at this for days with the same matterhackers stuff. I have been all over the place with settings and just can’t seem to get it to come out well. I think I’m in over my head with the advanced settings in Cura and am making worse clicking things I have no idea what they do lol. I’m still quite new to all of this, but have had some successes with other materials. Even a few successes with this, but now I think I have my advanced settings are all out of whack. Going back to default settings tomorrow and just adjusting temp, layer thickness and speed Yes, it’s been drying for days and days in the matterhackers filament dryer. Getting all kinds of goops on the first few layers and fuzz here and there all over the rest. Not to mention the tops but don’t look good for the cosmetic effect I’m needing. Getting quite frustrated. I also have 3dxtech petg carbon fiber that was apparently much easier to print. Same problem so I’m beginning to think it’s extruded issue or like I said I’ve fucked up settings that I don’t even know what they do. Kinda sucks since it’s a brand new Optimus P1. Thanks for sharing!
Does anyone else think that printing filament with Microscopic carbon fibers is a bad idea? I’d be concerned with any loose fibers coming off and getting under my fingers skin, irritating my skin, or worse, possibly breathing it in. What does everyone think?
Thanks for the info. I have been on the ropes with getting this material. I think i am going to get some in the next month or 2. I own a semi temp controlled chamber as well as a nice build plate from crealty
Great Video AND INFORMATION mate: I'm definately subscribed as I find your videos cool sources of REALLY necessary info for a newbie like me! Cheers, p.
Thank you ! Have been wondering about nylon and carbon. Two questions. 1. After printing does the nylon absorb enough moisture for later part failure? (I'm in FL also :) 2. How does it hold up in higher heat conditions? For example the dashboard of a car in full summer heat and sunshine. Thanks again for your time! - Howard in North FL
After printing nylon you want your nylon to absorb moisture. It becomes more impact resistant when it has absorbed a bit of moisture. The reason moisture in the filament ruins your print is that the moisture goes through the nozzle, turns to steam, and makes air bubbles in your extrusion line, and fucks up your part.
@@Hallslys that is a very good explanation. In Louisiana so this clarifies a lot of things to look forwards to when printing with this stuff. Merci et au revoir mes amis!
PLA Plus or PLA Tough is the strongest material you can print (I know... boring!) But as far as strength goes, it's absolutely unbeatable by anything except aluminum and steel. Carbon Fiber and PC are just good because they can handle 120C. The unfortunate thing is PLA and PLA+ and PLA tough cannot handle heat - AT ALL. Once it's hotter than like 100F it actually starts melting and warping. I think my favorite alternative to PLA+ is PA12+CF though. The CarbonX and Qidi PA12CF and Bambu Labs PAHT-CF are my 3 favorite versions and all come very close to PLA+
So I use a markforged everyday at work to make prototype and small production run parts. It uses Onyx which is a chopped CF and Nylon blend. We struggle constantly with wet filament which hurts at $175 for ~900grams. I'm totally going to try swapping out a dryer for the stock drybox. Do you use any bed heat with the NylonX? The markforged doesn't have one.
Sainsmart sells a knockoff that I have tested and found to be actually stronger than NylonX. (Same gcode file for both) It costs ~60$ a kg which is what NylonX sells a .5kg roll for. Packaging is also much tighter, I noticed my nylonX still has air trapped in the package while the Sainsmart filament gives a nice "kshhhh" of suction when you cut into it. Not being paid to promote this but it is a cheaper option.
The amount of vacuum is irrelevant its the % of RH it in, the overly tight ones risk damage and are a lot easier to get a hole in. If run correctly and packaged immediately or from a dryer, but if the packaging area is humid so will the remaining air in it be. fix: dry your filaments! don't trust the manufactures Cheers
I’m just starting to learn about 3d printing before I invest in one and this was a great video. Just one question: when you’re feeding the nylon from the spool into the printer, you’re using bare hands and I was wondering whether your skin oils can affect it and cause weak spots?
I've actually had a print warp at 90%, I was so pissed off I emptied half a bottle of super glue on the bed and used the spray thingy to make it harden faster. Glad I didn't hit the hotend spraying that thing 😂
I'm discovering the stronger printing materials and incidentely they require higher temps. Was wondering how you can go above the stock printer max temperature ? I own a cr10v2, anyone knows if it can handle high temps? (standard max is 260 for the hotend and 110 for the bed)
You have to change the firmware. My e5+ was the same way. There is a high temp limit built into the firmware that has to be changed. You may be able to do it with your current set up, but idk. I switched to a skr 1.4t and built my own firmware. It looks like he is running a different marlin firmware with a tft35, so most likely a different main board too.
For some reason, using a virtually identical setup to you, I always get blobs and poor layer adhesion. It has made trying to print with this material near impossible, and I have just set it aside for months now. Maybe one day I'll figure it out.
@@zeleacodreanu1 yeah, put it in the food dehydrator at like 150+ f for about 24 hours usually. I think it might be inconsistent heating in the hot end.
@@gavingross2174 Did you work it out in the end? In my experience dehydrators are shit for filament (and nobody checks on the rh) so I use the oven lol. But yeah, just curious if you worked out your issues?
@@whiskyeet I have been able to get some prints done, I'm now using a modified CR-6SE with I full metal hotend. I haven't been able to go above about 20 hours. I have a food dehydrator to dry it out, and I recently got a filament dry box, so I'm hoping if I do have longer prints, it will help, though it's still not a perfect setup
I am about one month into 3D printing with an Anycubic Mega Zero, I bought a spool of CB filament I found on Amazon. Like a newbie I am currently printing "Deadpool on Toilet". I do have to say that I love the look and feel of of two failed attempts: due to experimenting with settings. It visually looks better than silk filament; at least to me it does. In my near future I plan on upsizing the Mega Zero so that I can print bigger and more applicable items. Btw, I am also wet behind my ear at making RU-vid videos.. lol. Thank you for the information you have provided!
Just a word of caution, I was removing my nozzle the same way as shown here. I always do it this way and never had problems, but this time my wrench touched a exposed part of the heater wire and shorted my mainboard! Just be careful!
Never knew this was possible, awesome. That said, I felt like this video should have been entitled "What I Learned from Printing Carbon Fiber Nylon", you jump into a lot of detail on a lot of fronts, which disrupts continuity. Regardless, good practical suggestions, thank you for taking the time to create this great content.
So you didn't need a full enclosure? How come some people suggest a full enclosure? For me, my Ender 3 Pro is in a room that doesn't have the AC on at all, sometimes the celing fan is on, but I have it off most of the time when it's printing... I plan to also print directly from the filament dryer. But I'm not sure if I need an enclosure or not.
dang you printed that nylon in an open enclosure? Crazy. I have never tried nylon but with carbon petg I had to cover my printer with a foam box made from rigid insulation and I would preheat the bed and chamber with a space heater.
Carbon Fiber, maybe Nylon too needs higher temperature, up to 300 C Can i upgrade my printer to print higher, and what about the temperature setup in the system, now i have maximum 260 C deg .... thanks for any info 🌞
