Great video and mod. I installed my Micro Swiss DD and deleted the bowden tube. I now just have about 3 inches sticking up. This setup was almost like my MK3S, before the MMU. The Micro Swiss has beautiful machining. Peace be with you.
It took me a second to understand what you meant haha. You got ride of the guide tube then right? So you have it top loading so the filament goes strait into the Extruder. I like that setup. Hope you had a great Monday!
I've got to say my friend you do a GREAT job on the tutorial vids. The fact that you put the instruction in bold while talking to it is a nice touch. I'm really debating on going direct drive via the rails upgrade to my ender 3 pro. It's working so well now with all the updates I've already done. ummmmmmm
Thank you very much for the kind feedback. This video was a ton of work due to adding things like that but I really hope it helps others. Haha I know the feeling. What is your current configuration on it?
@@ModBotArmy Its a Ender 3 pro as I mentioned with a new shorter bowden Capricorn tube, a Swiss hotend and a dual gear extruder. Also I a lot little 3d printed teaks. I only print PLA but would really like try other types of filament.
If money is a issue as it is for me, creality offers a direct drive upgrade that is fully assembled ready to install . The price was around 40 bucks but it is not a all metal hotend, it's the same hotend that comes on the stock ender 3.
I have 2 issues with this set up. 1) The 2 piece carriage. It's unnecessarily fiddly to assemble and it's additional weight that can be paired down. 2) The stock extruder stepper is way too heavy for a direct drive in my opinion. Microswiss needs to come up with a geared reduction set up so that you can utilize a pancake stepper motor.
Nice, clear instructions. 👍 I still haven’t got around to putting the new extruded on my Ender 5 Plus (after I get the new mainboard and display installed...) and this is a good reminder for how to do the install properly.
@@ModBotArmy Yes, for the Ender 5 Plus. Carrier plate differs from the Ender 3 / CR 10 one. There is a local(ish) place that stocks some MicroSwiss stuff. Typically I do a ‘dry run’ for anything that looks tricky. It’s not much fun when you’re about ninety percent ‘finished’ then realise you missed something that requires disassembling everything. 🤦♂️
I'm surprised you've upgraded all of these things but haven't upgraded the hotend fan to a Noctua or something else to make it quieter. It makes a huge difference in volume!
@@kharmastreams8319 On my printer, just changing the hotend fan to a noctua made all the difference! For the other fans though, didn’t do much of a difference. Maybe your printer is quieter, but it helped me out a lot and a lot of other people as well considering the number of tutorials out there for it.
@@ModBotArmy The easiest thing is to replace the hotend and motherboard fans both with 12v 4020 fans then wire them in series so each fan only sees 12v.
I tryed this update. I did to print higher temp filament. Now it is a Hall metal hotend, you can in principle print PC (poly Carbonate) with hotend temp around 185 oC ! Great material by the way
Do they sell just the mounting bracket? Because I bought the Ender 3 Direct Dr. kit from them and now I want to upgrade to linear rails. I don’t want to have to buy a new kit all over.
I ran in to a small problem with the Micro-swiss linear rail hot ende kit. I have a Bullseye fan duct. The wire support structure on the Bullseye fan duct hits the extruder lever on the Micro-swiss bracket. I cut off the piece on the Bulleye that was intended for routing the wire bundle.
Is there any build volume lost on XY like on the original version? For the original version I moved the Y axis up to the first screw and used a T nut for the second. Earned a new sub keep up the good work.
I'd like to know how to mount the CR Touch to the linear rail version of the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend! I have the aluminum Micro Swiss mounting braket but NO instructions. What am I missing here?
I had a motor with a press fit gear. You do not have to buy a different motor. You can remove the gear with some brute force and you can make your own flat. It doesn't have to be massive and 8 have been printing with mine like that fir 3 months with no issues. No need to spend money you don't need to.
Thank you! I believe I have mentioned this but I don’t have to much previous experience with linear rails. It wouldn’t work for this specific kit just due to how it is mounted but I could see the appeal of having the weight on top versus being on the side of the rail 😬
Excellent video. I'm considering this upgrade but it doesn't appear there is a location to mount my BL Touch on the Micro Swiss main body? Or am I just missing it?
Cut into gear with dremal cutting disk stop before all the way through spread with flat screwdriver breaking gear and removing it. File down a flat area on the shaft. Install new gear. Crank down set screw onto flat area of shaft.
You all prolly dont give a damn but does someone know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any help you can give me.
@Odin Yusuf i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Looks like a great upgrade for my Ender 3 V2. Is there an overall weight reduction in this set up? I'm looking to get faster and good quality printing using Klipper. I think lowering the overall mass combined with direct drive extruder and all metal hot end would be a great solution. Especially when mounted to a linear rail.
@@patrickmaartense7772 Any idea how much is offset by the removal of the rollers and plate assembly? Otherwise I may look to staying with a bowden tube with frame mounted extruder.
@@Supperconductor no idea, I dont onw that setup, but generaly adding a direct driver will add weight. one of the advantages of bowden is the ability to print faster in regards to moving parts.
Hi, is the hotend designed for 24v or 12v? I have a geetech A30 with E3D hotend on 24v that I want to upgrade to microswiss direct extruder on linear rail. THank you
gcode file didnt do a darn thing i been haveing issues with my ender 3 pro with the micro swiss direct drive upgrade iv watched all yr vids and still nothing working right
A printed adapter plate would have been fine. There isn’t any active load on the print head, so metal plates aren’t crucial where high temperatures aren’t an issue.
@@ModBotArmy who knows, micro Swiss are not great on the social media... Or their contact form :D, I got a friend to make the changes for the linear rails but the official option does look a little better.... Except the plate only option doesn't seem to be available in the UK (waiting for them to respond :D)
Excellent video, new subscriber, I have a Creality 10S and have purchased the direct drive, when you updated the stepper motor settings, you used a software or did manually, how is this done. Thanks
Stepper motor settings show at the end of this video. You mean the e steps right? There is a Gcode file provided by microswiss you just need to put on a memory card and have your printer “print” it to apply! Thanks for the sub 😬
Good Vid man.... I thought you had planned to get rid of the printed brackets you used before? There's no need to get a new motor just because you have the pressed on gear. It's a simple matter to grind or file a flat spot onto that motor shaft. It only needs to be in the area where the grub screw lands if your too lazy to do the whole length. Edit: Right forget what I just said. You only had the printed stuff on the old carriage.
Someone else had mentioned that and I do agree that is a great option. I do think some may not feel comfortable going that route but totally for those that do that’s a perfect solution 😬
I would love to see a review of the Elegoo Neptune 2. And what upgrades are more importent then others for that machine. I want a reliable machine over anything else.
Last weeks video was a review of the Neptune 2. It was a review and not a mod video, but all these printers are more or less the same. So anything that can be done to the Ender 3 can more or less be done to the Neptune 2.
Would you need to change your Cura/Marlin/Octoprint...etc settings to reduce the max Z with this setup? I never print stuff that tall but it would be a nasty surprise at the very end of a tall print if that extruder motor went solid against the top rail.
Thank you for mentioning. I have not measured what you lose (I also never go nearly that high) but absolutely. If you are printing something tall it would be a bummer. Recommendation would be to home the machine and have it climb until it hits. Then look at the screen to see what point it hits and adjust your slicer.
When I installed the standard unit from Micro Swiss it moved the head forward so I lost a bit of print area in the Y-axis. I was able to move the Y-axis end stop forward a little but I didn't get it all back. Did you do anything in your firmware or slicer to acknowledge this change?
I currently have not since I am not maxing build volume. You should be able to change the y axis max build volume in the slicer to counter that. It is quite minimal right? (Have not done an exact measure yet)
Just bought this setup and did the micro Swiss full mod that you did awhile back. Will this be fine with the ender v2? Hope so it’s bought and paid for rails/ microswiss housing
The v2 will be different the main issue I see is with the fan cover/housing. You would need to convert it to the one that is on the Ender 3. A printable version would be awesome. It can definitely be done but that is the biggest difference I can think of currently.
now that you have the all metal hot end how do you go about setting the firmware for higher temps i think the ender maxes out at 260, with the all metal hotend i would like to be able to get above that temp a little say to 280 or so
@@piotrk6309 and how would u recode marlin and the heater cartridge and temp probe are fine up to 300c they just have it set at a safe temp because it wasnt a all metal hotend
Yes you would want to change your max temp if you want to go higher. This will very depending on the board used. As long as you have a boot loader on your board the change is quite simple since it is just the one value
@@ModBotArmy i bought the creality quite board off amazon it was already loaded by the company i got it from with the firmware for my ender 5 plus does that mean they had to put a boot loader on it www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085DM75Q6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would you be able to post a vid or some help on how to calibrate the direct drive to the ender 3 bed? Whatever I do it prints off the bed ever since i installed it? Trie to compile q new firmware with home offsets but to no avail...
If your bed is using Manuel leveling you should just have to relevel the bed. If you level the bed and make sure the nozzle is the correct height it shouldn’t have any way of not printing correctly. Unless something weird is happening in the slicer so the part is not starting at the base.
@@ModBotArmy ok, thanks! I will look for it. Just ordered my first ender 3 pro with some mod upgrades, so now studying before building. And got bit sidetracked on these new extruders and so..
Pancake motor only have 0.5X the torque of a full size extruder motor. They are usually intended for 3 to 1 gear ratio extruder. The Micro Swiss system don't have any reducing gear. This means that the pancake motor might not have enough torque for your application and/or got burned after a while due to overheating.
This is the Ender 3 v1. Did you mean the v2? If so it will be slightly different since it has a different fan shroud/housing. It may require converting the fan housing tot he style on the original Ender 3
@@ModBotArmy Thank you, as your video is recent, I presumed that it is for recent ender I will love to upgrade mine FYI, with very little review about Bibo2, your review was much helpful, I am using bibo2 , it is doing good job
I think that's great you're doing videos like this but this is exactly why I held up on getting a 3D printer for years. I just want to print some stuff, I don't want to have to spend additional hundreds of dollars on top of what I've already spent on a printer and then have to modify it constantly in order to get good prints. Currently more and more printers are coming out that don't need modifications and I like my risen printer for that reason. I've been looking around for an FDM printer but as I see videos like this still coming out I am concerned that I can't just buy a printer and be happy with it as it is out of the box.
The bowden tube is not necessary if you have a direct extruder... Do not understand why we have to make things so complicated when the filament must simply fall down in the direct extruder...
