These video instructions cover proper installation of a microSHIFT ADVENT X rear derailleur. Installing drivetrain components can be tricky - if you run into any problems or need help, please consult with a professional bike mechanic.
For some reason shifting and setting up a derailleur has been the last thing eluding me as an at home mechanic. This video finally got me there i was able to set up thos drivetrain on a custom 1by10 build ive been working on. Last thing is dialing it in so it shifts onto the largest cog
Love it, took my smooth brain a few retries watching this to get it indexing correctly, but man does this feel nice. Installed this on a 2001 castellano fango with a hope evo crankset and a KMC X10. Shifts like butter. Even on this older 26” bike it gives this amazing range to work with.
Amazingly clear and concise installation videos!! Seen there views and recommendations on this drive train and this was the final selling point! Great work
It's great that Microshift put these videos together. It's much more clear than a written installation manual. I upgraded my MTB's drive train from 3x7 to the 1x10 and my first impressions are that it's great! Really nice to have the clutch on there. Easy to install and adjust. Thinking about running this on my cyclocross bike too.
I just installed this set up on a customers bike and its pretty well made. Even though I have a home bike shop, I dont have a bike shop yet, but this system is pretty good.
I was just installing this on my bike and was hoping this video would show me how to use the chain gap tool that it came with. Guess I will just fiddle with it.
Yah we may need to remake that video and include that. but for now check out this video for that information. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gbbTtbFgOzY.html
Have bad time with the highest gear (smallest cassette ring) making ticking noise like trying to upshift to the second smallest. Can make it to go away by loosening the shifter cable, but then can't upshift from 6 to 7. Can only fix it more or less by relaxing B limit screw when the recommended gap is not 15-17 mm, but more like 8-9mm. Playing with H screw does nothing. The worse thing is that bike jumps the chain when under high stress on the smallest cog. All new components, and what a struggle. Will try to replace 10 speed KMC chain with 11, wonder if it will help
It's hard to diagnose these things over the internet, but it sounds like it could be a chain length issue. I would file a service claim on our website, a technician will get back to you to get it figured out one way or the other.
I just replaced a derailleur hanger not because it was bent but because the thru axle threads got messed up. It was literally just a plug and play, but now the derailleur won’t shift to the largest cog. The b tension screw is now almost all the way in and it finally shifts, but what could have caused this? Is there a particular way the derailleur needs to be oriented when we attaching it to the frame?
It can be hard to tell over the internet, but it sounds like the new derailleur hanger isn't in the same place as the old hanger. It may be that the old one was bent. Either way, if you followed all the directions carefully, especially getting the correct chain length, then it may just be that your bike needs the limit screw to be almost all the way in. If it's not working right, you can fill out a service ticket on our website (and send a picture), and our tech can take a look at it.
06:00 I followed the video advice of 15mm distance but the PDF manual might have an error, page 24; "With the chain in the largest cog, adjust the b-tension screw until there is 3-5mm of distance between the guide pulley and the tallest teeth of the largest cog."
I have a weird question - I've been running Microshift Advent X Ver. 1 for a while with no issues. When I originally switched over from my previous 10S setup, the chain length was already correct so I never had to determine it. The other day, I ordered the Ver. 2 derailleur as well as a new KMC 10 speed chain. Instead of just copying the existing chain length, I decided to use the method "2 extra link method" you and many other companies recommend for setting chain length. It's the only method I've ever used, and am very familiar with it. The first strange thing I noticed is that with an uncut 116L chain (including final quick link), the 2-link method was saying the chain length was correct without the removal of any links (about two full links of overlap). While I found that strange (knowing my old chain was much shorter, and that you almost always have to cut chains unless you have a huge chainring), I decided to try it. When I did, the slack in the smallest cog was noticeable right away - there was 0 tension to the point where the chain just flops, and yes, this is with the b-tension screw set with the Microshift V2 gage on the largest cog. While I was kind of expecting to this to happen, I couldn't in my mind wrap my head around why the "2 extra link method" wasn't working. I even have a chain length estimator spreadsheet calculator that I have used before that generally gets it 100% right (but I still do the 2 link method), so I put the numbers in and it recommended 112L, which is exactly what my old chain was. The numbers are 460mm chainstay (longest distance), 30T chainring, and 48T largest cassette cog if you care to check the math. Any website/calculator should give you the same number I got. Obviously I'm fine just cutting the chain down link by link until I hit the correct length (just to be extra cautious), but I still really want to understand what I'm doing wrong. I've used this method before with success numerous times, but now I've run into this problem and can't figure out what is going on - it's driving me nuts! Maybe you can help?
Advent X Ver.2 has a different cage design than the original, and needs a different length chain. If you check out the manual on our website you can see a really clear picture of exactly how we recommend that you cut your chain. Also, all wide range 1x systems are extra sensitive to B-tension. Make sure yours is dialed in precisely according to the manual as well.
That problem can be caused by a lot of things. If you haven't tried it yet, I would tighten the cable tension by turning the barrel adjuster on your shifter counterclockwise. If that doesn't work, then yes, I would try to start at the beginning with the installation instructions.
Hanger extender is usually used to extend the derailleur's capability beyond its spec. In this case, ADVENT X cassette and derailleur are already designed to work with each other, so no extender necessary!
As for chain sizing, The video says add to whole links, but every other video I watch says add just two rivets of length, is this something specific for this drivetrain?
Actually, both would be fine since it will be within our design tolerance. This is actually not specific to our drivetrain, modern drivetrains are all using longer chain lengths these days.
Hi. No matter what I do, my advent x derailleur won’t shift down into the lowest gear. The only time it does is when the cable has no tension, I add tension in order for the gears to shift up, but then they won’t shift down no matter what. To the point where I can only get it down to the third from last! Any advice? I’m loosing my mind here.
This can commonly be caused by cable friction. Doublecheck to make sure nothing is clamping the cable housing and that it is properly lubed. The other potential cause is chain length. If checking those things doesn't help, get in touch with our customer service folks by filling out a service request on our website and we can take a look.
There's no set setting. It's better to have turned most of the way clockwise (the shortest setting) so that as the cable housing gets seated in, you can add a little bit of cable tension by turning it counterclockwise.
A little late for you, but may help someone else. I have their 11-48 cassette and derailleur. It works with a Shimano Deore shifter on my son's Hawk Hill 1.
@@findtherightbeat Sorry it took so long to reply. The cassette still looks/works good. He has probably averaged 15 trail miles a week since your post. That doesn't include riding almost daily around our house.
Nope, not compatible with a triple. The idea is that the cassette has a wide enough range that you don't need more than one chainring on the front. Still, some folks love a triple and we're not going to argue with them!
hello microshift. after servicing the chain and installing it back, on the smallest star, the chain began to slip under load, what should I do? What could be the problem?
Could be lots of things. Might be chain and/or cassette wear, might be something is out of adjustment. I would recommend bringing it to a shop or filling out a service ticket on our website.
@@microSHIFTTECH Thanks! Do your OEM partners run the X10 equivalent or the X11? Sorry if the question seems silly but others on the forums claim that theirs shift with the narrower chain
@@findtherightbeat 100% you should run X10 chains. The difference between 11 speed and 10 speed chains are the outer width of the outer link plates are narrower. This means 11 speed chains can work on 10 speed systems in general, but will shift slower. For any additional question, please send us emails service@microshift.com
microSHIFT Yes, all Advent X derailleur, shifter & 11-48 cassette. I hadn't installed the chain yet, but tested the shifting and it was clashing with the cassette
@@bmwofboganville456 That is normal. Modern 1x drivetrains' rear derailleurs actually move the guide pulley out of the way when you shift. This design makes sure that the derailleur offers optimal performance with wider range capability. Once you install the chain and set the proper B-tension, this problem should go away by itself.
Well now I know why my chain is skipping it's obviously too long with my chain in the smallest cog my derailleur is full retracted back with no spring tension it
Yes. Most modern wide range derailleurs like SRAM and Shimano's 12 speed derailleurs require a further pulley distance. The shifting performance is actually optimal for this updated design.
On 1:00 you can see that there is too much distance on tension washer which has only contact to the edge of the lip and will result in ton of wear on the hanger. This is not a good design.
@@xrated_ The distance is to account for the cassette jumps between cogs. This will prevent the guide pulley from interfering with cogs during shifts. Our cassette shifting ramps and shifter cable pull are designed to account for this. If setting the distance to less than the specified distance, you might see noises from the chain and ghost shifting. The guide pulley will also interfere with cassette cogs during shifts.
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