I've been a professional welder for 40 years, miller are top notch. I'm mainly a tig welder, I've done oil exploration ballast tanks for submarines recently, all aluminium, I'm now making bespoke 304 food industry equipment, all hand made, look up Gough engineering UK. That machine is excellent, but uphill should be slow and patient, with the torch pointing slightly north. The backwards Z trick is to watch it sink on the left corner, let it rise then move right, same again, then z up to the left to create the second part of the weave on the left and so on. It creates a double bead, with full penetration. I used to weld cut and stretch wagon chassis like this, with hiabs on.
I just recently purchased a millermatic 255. While trying to familureize myself to the new welder Did the push then pull then the vert down and then vert up with the auto settings for size of steel , gas and wire. I got even an uglier vert up. Now i know how to correct that. Thank you Jodi for sharing your welding expertise. I have Been welding 55 years plus. Age has deminished the eyesight and i no longer want to weld out of position. I' m to stiff and feel like i have fallen and cant get up. But as long as i can move im going to continue to go to the shop and enjoy the challenge. Still fun to learn and perfect what i think i know. My dad had a mobile welding service till he was 80. And lived to go weld something. His mistake, he retired.
finaly got my verical uphill using your triangle technique !! i use 3 settings lower than the gauge steel im working with as a start point as i weld up to 1/2 at work . i stay learning off your vids man thank you
Another great video, thanks, Jody! Just to chime in with over 45 years of MIG experience on the "Push vs Pull" technique w/ gas shielding. From wayyyyyy back in the day, in the Navy and Oil Tanker shipyards working w/ Steel and other shipyards MIG welding all Aluminum Tuna Boats w/ "CobraMatics", we were ALWAYS required to Push a wire feed whenever possible for a number of reasons having to do with penetration and porosity. This is because as the nozzle is angled slightly in the direction of the weld, the shielding gas is pushing the atmosphere away from where the puddle is going to be created. It was determined that a "Pull" technique, with the nozzle aimed back towards the puddle, opposite the direction of travel actually placed little gas coverage in front of the puddle and the weld force tended to "suck" more atmosphere directly into the formation of the puddle as the angled nozzle moves away from the weld. I know it's Po-TAY-toe vs Po-TAH-toe, but except for real thin material or difficult circumstances, I still "Push" when ever possible based on 45 years of experience punching the clock in the yards and later, owning my own fabrication business. And Jody, Thanks again for ALL you do for the fabrication community!!!
Jody the metal god !.. I bought this machine trusting your honest review.. And I could not be happier with my purchase .. thank you so much for your invaluable time !
Thanks Jody, awesome video. I just ran into this same issue and now have a much better understanding! The “Mig Knuckle” works, it’s awesome!!! So just an update, I am about at the 2yr mark on watching all your videos! Just love them. Be Blessed!!!
Cripes just realized how much I've learned from Jody and his videos. Making super good use of my everlast welders and enjoying every minute of it because of this gentleman.
Got to check out that mig knuckle, i was actually just using my tig finger xl not to prop but to shield the heat from mig welding my trailer. Funny how things work out. I guess all us welders experience the same things. Burnt knuckles, and holy boots.
Thanks so much for all your welding tips. I’ve always struggled with vertical up with ugly looking welds. Probably because I never turned the power down thinking it wouldn’t get in there as much. Turns out that’s what I should have been doing all along. I’m going to practice some more to try and nail this technique once and for all. An appreciative UK viewer.
Got to try that technique out. Just bought a Miller Multimatic 255 a few weeks ago. What an amazing machine! Replaced my Lincoln 180. That Pulse Mig is freakin awesome!!! Really excited to try this vertical uphill tomorrow. I’ll try it on short arc mig and pulse mig. Pulse mig seems to work better on everything I’ve tried so far.
So much knowledge and so willing to share. I love this channel. I see that Miller is trying to catch up to some Everlast innovations. Very interesting to watch the technology mature in welders.
Thanks Jody, I've been having issues with uphill on my MM211 at home, and hadn't had a chance to read up on proper setup yet. This gives me something to try and get uphill figured out.
I would like to see a cut and etch on a downhill vs uphill Mig. Just for shits and giggles. I do a little oval like stich when going uphill but going to give the old triangle a go next time. Thank you for the upload. You are by far my top place to watch weld videos.
All the other welding sites have had to up their game to even be worth a look. Jody is still the best. I haven't used innershield in 20 years, until a few weeks ago. As i moved the torch to the work piece i could hear his voice explaining how to do the vertical uphill welds...... By the way - Jody, what wire do you use for Dual Shield? Is it just regular flux-cored wire with C25 gas?
Been watching your videos for some time now. Thought it was high time I said thanks for the videos and tips. Can tell you, you have helped me more than you will ever know.
Just bought this machine last week and I have an electrician coming in to drop a receptacle in so I can fire her up. I'm a TIG guy so I'm going to be rolling out that gun and pedal. Looking forward to more content like this! Oh, by the way, big fan of the TIG Finger! Putting together a shopping list for some of those clear furick cups and that MIG Knuckle!
Another great video, Thanks! I have a Vulcan Omnipro 220 and even though I’m use to setting up welders manually I didn’t think I would use the auto set that much, but after using it man it’s convenient, especially if your welding a few different thicknesses on the same project! Take care :)
Alittle bit late but mig downhill requires a serious attention to travel speed and gun angle. You can crank her up and let her eat but if you let that puddle catch up to your arc for even a blink of the eye it will not pass a bend test especially a downhill open root.
I wouldn't trust it on anything thicker than .125 or so. With a bit of root opening you can get reasonable welds on thin sheet going downhill, but let's face it... You're not gonna be putting up buildings made out of 10-ga :P
Thank you for this video! I have been welding for about 45 years now with sticks and mig. 90% of my welding work upphill i do with sticks, in all other positions i use mig. But i newer learn to weld upphill with the mig, yesterday i welded a hook for an compactor with the mig but i did it from top to bottom! Lot of heat is needed beacuse we talk about lifting power from the full off waste compactor, maby 40 metric tons! But i will test you method and im shure i can do it! Thank you sir for good videos! Regards from Timo in Sweden.
Only just subbed yesterday as I’ve been thinking of getting a little mig welder for tinkering about with my rusty Nissan (lol) and can’t stop watching your videos! No doubt your tips will help me out 👍 wish me luck!
Can you do some more welding tig and mig and stick for this miller 220? I would like to see more of the duty cycle and how the machine works with a 30 amp plug as well great video again
I seriously looked at this Miller 220 and it has great features but in the end I bought the Fronius Transteel 2200 MV .both machine have similar features but in the end the Fronius is nearly half the weight and in Canada 1000 dollars less even when both are on sale. The Miller is a great machine, had Miller for years (just sold it) both machines weld very well but there is something about the Fronius which is the European quality this influenced my decision . Jody how about a weld off between both machines, your skill would make the test very fair.
i'm really thinking about getting the miller multimatic 220 ac/dc for my first own personal home shop machine! i just an everlast 180 tig box and a millermatic 252 at work everyday, i'm thinking the 220 would be perfect for my home shop, i'd litterally be able to weld anything one would need to at their house for like car building and small fabrication jobs!
I just bought this welder so it was great to see that vertical uphill settings trick. Could you do another video on the other features of this machine? :)
No entiendo el ingles pero comprendo lo q hace. Ya q la soldadura y metalurgica es un gra pacion para mi. Muy buenos y utiles sus videos. Saludos desde Tucuman. Argentina.
verdaderamente un sr saldador muchos saludos siempre me e de recordar este bello cordon de soldadura por las provas que hice se lo debo tanto ya que con esto que habia visto lo hice muchas gracias
Depends on the WPS, or specific code you're welding to, as well as the joint design. If you're welding something where 100% penetration is required, then I'd bevel everything to ensure you're getting into the root. Had a job at my last shop where everything was 100% pen. Welding 1 1/2 plate to 3/8" wall thickness square tubing. The plate was cut to fit the tube. On those we welded the inside first, the plasma gouged/grind down to clean weld metal. Then we'd weld the outside. Then the NDT guys came and ultrasound the welds. That wasn't typical however. For fillets, the strength comes from the weld size. For example if you're welding 3/8 play to 1/2 plate, the minimum weld size should be 3/8". This means the legs and face of the weld shouldn't be less than 3/8". Keep in mind the biggest single pass you should pay with mig is 5/16". To get the weld size necessary you'll need multiple passes. For butt joints and groove welds, I bevel anything over 1/4". I hope this helps
@@chuckhickman8093 wow, that's very cool, thanks for explaining. I just like to play around in the backyard, only took a night class for stick at the tech school (dad's a welder though). I remember the instructor saying you can/may have to lay many many beads. I have a book or two, and I think a few chapters from a Navy Training Manual. Sometimes it makes since, sometimes not, lol. Thanks again.
@@chuckhickman8093 great job describing the situations that arise . I've worked for several different outfits before going into business on my own and at both shops we were doing the same work but the requirements were completely different.
@@chuckhickman8093 I know it's an old comment but I have to say according to AWS d1.1 effective weld size is ¹/16 less than the smallest base metal thickness. So in your example of ⅜ to ½ T or lap joint a single pass at ⁵/16 would be sufficient.
Once again another good video. I always learn something watching your videos. When my helmet is down I don't see it, but the camera clearly shows all the weld spatter. I see many spatter control products in my local welding store but never instructions regarding them. Would you please do a video about these products and when/how/why to use them including nozzle dip.
