Milling logs into Lumber 

It's been 4yrs maybe by now you know the difference between a ripped and a sawin chain

Jacob Blake I don’t understand why you would need to install levels for the first cut. As long as it’s flat all other cuts will be flat relative to that one.

I have a mill coming in the next week or so and your pulley system is just awesome. Great idea, and I love the tip about a top cut then turning the log!

I have found one system that makes the saw go through like butter and not need any pulleys.

@@HAMMERDOWNFRAMER ok great , details?

Thanks for the comment. Just trying to inspire people to get outside so that they may see or do something new. You are never to old to learn and should never be scared to try.

A chainsaw mill is just much smaller and simpler version of the Lucas Mill. Great for making planks and beams but requires extra cutting for dimensional lumber.

Nice to have you aboard. I will be posting some more sawmill videos soon. Subscribe and hit notifications so you know when they are up.

Big Woodsman ...thanks...planning a similar ladder based jig & saw this. A light aluminum ladder seems like a ready made guide waiting to happen. One could build all kinds of functionality into a ladder based mill. ✌️

I had a comment at one point that a user attaches a pully and weight to a tree so as the weight drops it pulls the mill along and he doesn't need to touch it all. Sit back and watch it cut. All great helps for sure.

Hey V Star. Check out my other video where I show you how to upgrade a ladder to do exactly what you are speaking about. I'm not too critical of the ends being perfect as I would remove these for dimensional lumber anyway due to end checking.

I have some Holly timber in log form yet, as well as some Cedar still standing just waiting to be made into dimensional lumber which is why I'm checking out these kind of videos. I will take a look at the other one as well. Thanks for the feedback.

V Star 1300 Adventures I have milled a lot of Cedar for live edge siding on my cabin. Cuts nicely but its a dirty tree. It will require multiple sharpens. Hope the videos will help you. Love to see some pics sometime.

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up.

Yeah he’s pinching his timber and cutting very slow for the size of log. He’s probably not using a ripping chain either.

He cant afford a sawmill obviously.

There was no way of getting a machine to this tree unfortunately. I had to carry each board out of the bush by hand.

Can't really give an accurate answer as this all depends on a lot of criteria like chain sharpness, type of wood, amount of knots and foreign items maybe imbedded like metal or dirt. On average a tank of fuel for each 2 boards, I sharpen as needed. You can tell when it needs to be done by the sawdust and the effort it takes.

I guess the big thing to remember here is that they are a portable sawmill. Emphasis on "portable". I needed planks and had no way to get the logs out of the bush to the sawmill so we take the sawmill to the logs. I use it quite alot and it has paid for itself numerous times over. Everyone should have one.

Normally I don't bother. I try and pick logs that have little taper. White Cedar is bad for this. After edging it to dimensional lumber it doesn't matter but in this case I wanted live edge irregular boards.

I cut the first piece 1/2" thicker than the ladder. Take off the top cap and then you can start cutting boards at whatever thickness you need. From there you will have to edge them if you want dimensional lumber. Good luck.

That makes sense. I have never really had to worry about it as the ladder is dead straight. When I mentioned it in the video I should have said not level end to end.

Must be level Thanks

At 7:11 you will see I have wedged the end with my axe. A few more in the mid point would be good. Great tip.

This was a new chain but a rather unique design. I use a different one now and things are much better.

This was my first video using the Alaskan Mill. Since then I have changed saws, tried different makes of ripping chain. Fined tuned it quite a bit.

@@BigWoodsman yeah it was great video. Things always need some fine tuning. Thanks for the great content.

Yes it is a slow process but it's not meant to be the fastest system out there but it is ridiculously portable when you are working remotely. That's the key.

At 7:10 you can see I use my axe as a wedge. Works just fine.

It comes very close but doesn't actually hit. Check out my other video on adapting your ladder so you have extra overhang to prevent just that.

It all depends on hardness of the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your chain. You should get at least 1 to 2 boards per tank.

Big Woodsman what's max log

The more you can level everything the better off you are however as long as the ladder gets attached flat and level to the log then the mill will track from point on.

@@BigWoodsman ok thanks

Using a ripping chain is the only way to use one of these mills. There are multiple types of ripping chains but it is necessary.

It's a 20" bar. There's not much of need for anything bigger in my area. Most big timber has been logged out long ago.

Hey Anthony. Check out my other milling videos for info also. I use an old aluminum ladder and it works great with some simple upgrades.

Every cent! You cant make your own but definitely a necessity.

@@BigWoodsman thank you man, what size bar can u run with like 8 lb ft of tq

@@joshsoorlin579 The bar length is more or less governed by the type and size of mill you have. With that said it is always helpful to have more power at your disposal. It makes for an easier cut.

Definitely give this is try. It may seem like a dangerous position but once you use it you will see the bar is mostly in the log virtually eliminating kickback and the device has a pretty substantial guard for safety. Having said that you should treat all chainsaws with respect as they can be a dangerous tool and take constant control.

Turn it up, i heard him fine.

The saw I'm using is 028. It would be nice to have a bit bigger to speed things up but I got it for free so it seemed like the right choice.

Kaye Bryan you will not get chips when milling with a chainsaw buddy, you will get saw dust. Your going with the grain of the wood, cross cutting produces chips. Ripping chain is ground 5-10 degrees.

Is 5-10 degrees the rake angle beneath/for the cutting edge? The ripping chain I resharpened, starting with a new chain, was straight across...zero degrees...which is exactly what you will see if you take the time to find and examine a large circular saw at a sawmill. You must be one of those hammer-headed evangelical/Deplorables who voted for Fuhrer Trump, America's first Fascist wannabe dictator.

Kaye Bryan You've obviously been milling your wood wrong if your getting chips opposed to dust. Oregon's ripping chain comes ground at 10°, not 0°. Fresh out of the box it produces fine sawdust on all species I've touched with it: Red/yellow cedar, Arbutus, Doug fir, Spruce, Pine..... Being a Boeing grinder for 30 yrs I'm sure you'd understand the basics of a cutter tooth cutting across the end of the grain and see why it would be impossible to produce a chip. Also aircraft materials act completely different than wood while being machined so I don't think your "expertise" necessarily transfers over here bud

Hi, I get mostly chips instead of mostly sawdust because I regrind a new chain to the same angles as a large diameter sawmill saw. The cutting edge is ground straight across (parallel to the center line of the shaft the saw blade is mounted on), and with a rake angle being measured in degrees from a line drawn across the diameter of the saw blade. It's been awhile since I cut any lumber with a chain saw lumber mill so I don't remember the number of degrees, other than the angle is at least 10 degrees positive. If you have access to a regular saw mill blade, take a protractor and measure that angle. Make sure the part of your protractor that you place on the periphery of the saw blade is TANGENT to the line across the diameter of the blade. Otherwise, your reading in degrees won't be accurate. While you're measuring, check the angle of the surface behind the cutting edge. In tool grinding parlance, that surface is the primary land. On a metal-cutting end mill, that clearance angle depends upon the material being machined: Cast iron, 4 or 5 degrees. Steel, 6 to 10 degrees depending upon the alloy. Aluminum and titanium, 10 to 12 degrees. Behind the primary land is a secondary land. The width of the primary land is usually no more than 1/32 of an inch (.032"). However, because the primary land is also a 'heat-sink', some materials require a wider width. In Great Britain, reel lawnmowers have the reels spun or 'circle-ground' leaving the individual reel blades the same diameter front-to-back and with no 'run-out' around the circumference of the reel. Then, that portion of the blade behind the leading edge is 'backed off', leaving a primary land that is no more than .010" wide or one-fourth of a millimeter. The following is from my Oregon chainsaw maintenance manual (published in 1981) and pertains to the shape of the saw chain teeth. All are front view. Super Chisel: square-shaped. Super 70: square-shaped. Super Guard: square-shaped. The new chain you bought with the 10 degree angle. My guess is that the manufacturer didn't include an extra step that would involve sharpening the sides of the individual teeth, so used the 10 degree angle instead...saving money. You really should find a large diameter traditional saw mill saw blade and closely inspect, and measure, every aspect of the teeth. Kaye Bryan

Kaye Bryan you tried to offer advice that pertains strictly to circular saw mills.... This guy is milling with a chainsaw mill, I'm talking about chainsaw mills, the other guy above is talking about chainsaw mills. Oregon is a reputable manufacturer that produces a myriad of chains specific to various applications, I think they've got their engineering figured out. And yes the sides of my milling chains cutters are sharpened. While the information you posted about circular mills is probably correct, you're dead wrong about buddies sawdust and his chainsaw mill. Just leave it.... Apples to Oranges bud, you can't compare.

About a minute a foot. I like let my saw run at higher rpms.

Bigger saws are faster.

It's not a fast process but what you have to remember that this is portable and for me I couldn't get equipment to the log so this was a great choice.

Yeah sorry for that. One of my first filming attempts and things have got much better since then.

This was my first video creation. I agree it's not the best sound but you cant redo it. Check some of my latest. They get much better.

Yeah, any time a chainsaw is making sawdust and not slash, it's time to grab the ol' rattail file... Still, it's an informative video.

That's what caught my attention too. I just wish I could have heard what he was saying.

I was just about to post the same suggestion

Can someone repeat this without typos? I'm curious, but cannot decipher the info.

@@phantomcreamer it’s pretty simple it you cut everything to 10’ leave the ladder 12’ long. A foot over hand on ether end, that way the ladder can support the mill as it starts its cut and finishes.

@@focirs7484 got it, thanks!

I agree, and you could make the angle stock adjustable for length by drilling a couple holes in your angle stock and using self tapping screws to attach it to your ladder