That particular drill motor is a beast. Was in production virtually unchanged for more than a quarter of a century. They were true industrial tools made to last, hence the riveted embossed metal data plate on top.
Wanted to say thanks for making the video, in particular, the part about installing the small part with the spring, that had me bamboozled. I'm not sure if you get many appreciative comments, but your video really helped me out.
I appreciate your confidence, I would have hooked the power cord to the unit prior to getting everything in place and test ran it. Good job all is well.
That is definitely a project to do prefer a drill this caliber it is sure worth it I will be doing this exact same thing soon to mine it was my father's it's worth it
Mine had non dis-connectable field wires, blue & white, not described in either style. They were both to go to 3 & 4 exiting the motor at Apx 4 O'clock. So I simply used the old wires (still in good shape) and made an executive decision. My blue field wire was the lower one of the pair (blue & white), so treated like the one you inserted into switch position #4 and the only wire leftover (the upper white one) into switch position 3. Folks, if you all think that something may go wrong, or simply don't have "good luck" with something electrical, use the bulb in series trick. A screw in lamp bulb (incandescent) into a socket that will light up IF you have a high current draw. This trick is well known among folks that do this stuff all the time. Simply run one wire through the bulb on the power strip side. Yes you will require additional work space. Remember, don't attempt if you think that a shock will hurt you or someone else.
This is a great video, I did miss the first jumper wire terminals thought he said b, it was d. Soldering the black wire is a good idea but I did not solder mine and it pushed in fine to the terminal the wire was pretty stiff without the solder. This video is much better than the instructions that come with the switch. The lock button with the spring and new switch cover takes a few tries to get it right. Don't mess with the brushes, I made that mistake, had to watch another video to learn the trick to get them in. I used snap ring pliers vice needle nose pliers because I am not that coordinated to push the handles out. On my snap ring pliers it has an internal external switch. So when squeezing the handles the ends push out to push in the brushes. Anyway, plugged the drill in, it worked perfect on the first try.
We had a challenge following where the module wires went... We plugged it in barely touched the switch and heard a spark (it was towards the top (near the top brush) and smelled a small stink... Did we fry the module? Our Sw came w/ no wiring sheet.
Is the switch available on the website? Do you have the part number? Also, Does the same switch work with both types of field coils? Thanks for the video! 👍 Update: I found the switch and part number on your site. I was only typing in Milwaukee magnum drill switch and it wasn't coming up. Once I added 5370-1 it came up. Thanks again! 😊
My instructions said the "A" terminal said to remain unused but made no mention of of the black wire from module to "B" but instead power cord term to "B" on switch . so i installed per this video and the drill ran on slow but would not shut off . tried another switch same problem only the module started smoking and no rev's SO back to instructions hook-up and nowhere to put the middle module wire What gives Milwaukee! is the module in the switch now .
got a old 234-1 drill that the switch is broke. I looked up for a replacement and said not available anymore and the one for the 234-6 is not compatible? Is the same switch you just put in on the old motor? Thanks
could you place a copy of both sides of the wiring instruction sheet on your website or just get a good focus on both for about 15 seconds. That way we can use pause to better follow what you are doing.
Hey buddy, I have a milwaukee "3/8 HOLE SHOOTER" The switch was labeled LUCERNE 5029 ...I've had this thing over 30 years ?? ...I have all the info off the drill but everyone I contact says they're not really sure where to get a replacement...or what style or number to use..Any help ?
I have the old style drill - it does not have the spade terms on the field, it has the wires that come straight out. Do you have instructions for that on the web site? Thanks!
I have an old 3/8 Milwaukee my father in law left me I can not find a model number I don't know what switch to buy. I don't know how old it is but it runs great or it did CAN YOU HELP.
The specs say 0-850 rpm but I've seen 2 of them and they both go from, I'd say, 250 rpm to 850 rpm. Not a true variable speed drill. Difficult to start on something that's not center punched well.
Just watched this INTENTLY, as I, like many of you, have the EARLIER model. After spending hours making diagrams, testing the old one and new one, I proceeded to attach the wires in what I thought would be analogous to this one. Unfortunately, this is NOT correct, and upon plugging in the power plug, the drill runs at high speed without touching the trigger!(but hey, it will reverse!!). And , like many of you, my GOOGLE search for the wiring diagram that came with the TOTAL replacement was fruitless, which is why I had to spend so much apparently, wasted time. The least this clown could have done was to show both of the wiring diagrams to prevent all this wasted time. The only thing I plan to do now(it's Saturday) is to call one of the repair shops to see if there is some dude/dudess that knows the fix for the earlier style or better yet, actually has one of the wiring diagrams form that.
