Me sucedió lo mismo con un taladro idéntico y son 3 fallas. El motor se atascó y se tuvo que reemplazar, el switch se quemó, cambié todo y seguía con la misma falla. Al final verifique voltaje de diodo en los mosfet F1404Z, uno de ellos no me daba voltaje que debería de dar y di que ese componente fallaba. Lo cambié por un irf1404 y quedó funcionando! Hay que tomar en cuenta siempre los mosfet en este tipo de herramientas y hacer las mediciones correspondientes, siempre con datasheet en mano. Éxito!
Thanks for posting. Fixing the same tool for my friend. It turns on but you have to give the arbor a little nudge to get it to go. Started taking it apart and noticed the arbor doesn't spin freely. There is a slight catch as you spin it. If that makes sense. Like it doesn't spin smoothly. Not sure if that is normal. Doesn't look like you can even get into the actual motor.
Collet broke the first time I used it. I ended up putting a chuck on it and it seems to be working. Some accessories have to run a slow speed because of vibration, but don’t vibrate on a Dremel.
Great Video! Their are two things I'd do to it before I give it to charity out by the street. First ,oxide spray the board. Second, spray the motor openings with an air in a effort to remove dust and improve contacts. It would be nice if they came out with a brushless version for this.
had mine a couple of months used only a hand full of times and now its doing exactly this. I needed it today and after messing about with it for a bit i found if you remove the battery and switch the on/off switch to the on position and then push the battery in it works however you cannot control the speed i assume it was just running at full speed. Not impressed i also own the m12 fuel impact driver, m12 fuel hackzall, m12 torch not to mention all the impact ready bits and sets i have purchased. Im Not sure were to contact milwaukee for the warranty procedure as its been over 30 days
faiz k Mine did the same thing initially, put the battery in and it would run full tilt for a while then stopped and then after some time it wouldemt even do that. You and i are not the only ones. Milwaukee could have done a better job at the speed control. All my dremel brand ones run for years with plently of abuse. Like you i have a bunch of the m12 tools, most of decent and they make a couple tools in a compact size that other tool manufacturers dont make so sometimes you are forced to get their stuff but they should not be making rotory tools on my opinion. I have yet to file a warrantee claim with them but i thought i saw a thing on their website for warranty claims submission
@@builditbetter5610 Hi mate, would you please do me a favour, an SMD resistor came off my PCB, labeled R18 on the same side as the potentiometer for speed, could you find it what value it should be so I can replace it? Much appreciated if you can.
@@suzesiviter6083 I'm sorry, I no longer have the tool to tear it down for you, is there another resistor near by on the same circuit that you could get a reading off of to get you I'm the ball park? The vast majority of these speed control circuits use either a 10k or 220 ohm
@@builditbetter5610 Hi, I bought a new drill, on there R18 is 74R, replaced that, the 2 MOSFETs (IRF1404) and the Schotkky Diode and on power up, they all popped again, its now in my parts bin till I can be bothered to trace the circuit through, the motor is good though, tested it. The control circuit is working though, ~I heard its high pitched squeel for a second or two before the components exploded, gone are the days transistors cost pence, so far spent £20 just on those components, its becoming uneconomical to repair. Thanks for getting back man, wrote this for others with similar problems.
Unfortunately it's been a problem with the M12 rotary tools, if you use them for long periods of time or at high speeds under load they tend to "burn out" I've replaced mine twice already and it's still not 3 years old. Be interesting to see if the new Fuel model stands up better. If you only use it for very short periods with only very easy cutting/grinding it's great, but it can't take extended use or cutting under load for long.
I have a Milwaukee SDS plus rotary hammer. Its hardly been used. Recently I power it on but the motor isn't turning. It only lights up the led worklight ,power indicator and emit a 'tik' sound. Can anyone educate me as to the cause of the problem? Thanks!
The milwaukee rotary tool and dremel 8220 seem very similar. Do you have an opinion of which one is more durable? Obviously your milwaukee broke so I assume you will say the dremel is more durable. But then when your dremel breaks, you will probably decide that they are both a bit crummy. I am trying to choose a cordless rotary tool and none of them are great, but these two seem to be the best. Thanks for the great teardown video. Very informative.
I was not impressed with the Milwaukee, it had a fraction of the hours or use that my previous dremel brand did before it bit the dust, and I am generally not hard on my tools, I use them within reason of what they are designed to do. Dremel brand has always been good to me, and if your interested in a cordless one, I am extremely impressed with the 8220 shown in this video, although I only a few months use out of my current one so far and it was a reconditioned unit, it is still going strong. I have had no issues at all with the Dremel batteries or charger on the 8220's as I did with the Milwaukee brand. The 8220 has never felt like it was lacking power to complete a tast ,like the Milwaukee did most of the time. As a point of reference my last Dremel 8220 lasted me about 4 years of almost daily use before the brushes went out on it and it needed a new battery. I have heard bad things about the aftermarket batteries for the dremel tools and it was cheaper to get a reconditioned 8220 then a new OEM battery and brushes for the old one. The speed control and ergonomics are 2nd to none of all the dremel tools I have owned, and I have tried the Milwaukee, dewalt, the one at harbor freight, and a couple other cheaper versions. I also have the dremel stylus, which is also a cordless one, it has been reliable and has OK power for its size, but has horrible battery life and can be a bit finicky at times. If you want me to do a tear down video and in depth discussion on the 8220, I can put something together.
wow, thank you for the info. I will likely get the 8220. I have searched youtube for dremel 8220 teardowns and I found very little. The best I have found is some videos about replacing the motor which briefly shows most of the internals. At a glance, the design and looks very similar. There could definitely be a difference in the build quality and component quality. Don't make a video just for me, but I would definitely watch it :)
My Pleasure. I was contemplating doing a tear down on the 8220, but you gave me the motivation...lol i think i still have the internals of the Milwaukee one, if I do I can do a side by side comparison of the build quality and choice of materials used in each. I should have it made and uploaded in the next couple days. I think I may do a tear down on the Dremel stylus, and the Dremel saw as well .
I have the tear down video of the Dremel 8220 uploaded if you are interested. Here is the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2ATbRPlEXfc.html
Mine does the same. I think it is a burned out mosfet. I checked mine and it is shorted to ground all 3 pins. I ordered new mosfet, still waiting for it to arrive.
I've sent one back twice under warranty. Got new ones both times. Controller issues in both cases. Really a disappointing product from Milwaukee. Meanwhile my 10 year old Dremel keeps going. Oh, and the newest one vibrates...
Milwaukee NEEDS to recall this tool, and engineer a robustly designed replacement, as this tools control board is obviously junk, unable to handle standard motor stall conditions, without soiling the bed.
Garbage ass rotary tool from milwaukee, bought mines from home depot...the first one shit the bed in days of work, brought back to home depot and got replacement...now the 2nd one shit the bed after about a month of not using it 🤦
This pcb is double sided, water damage is unlikely as its covered in conformal coating, the likely suspect here are the output mosfets. ALSO always disconnect one end of the motor before powering it, unless you have the schematic and know it wont damage it. Edit: I took mine apart, first the Schottky rectifier was short, then found the d2pak IR mosfet shorted(D-S), so looks like a quick stop of the motor had caused a massive back EMF overdriving the Schottky diode, that caused the MOS to overload and also short. So ebay parts from UK about £10, I just hope nothing else is damaged, but its hard to tell with no schematic as reference.
@@diegofernandoarias7426 Hi, no I never got it working, I have a £800 soldering iron that delivers fast heat, yet I was unable to solder the MOSFET's onto the PCB without damaging them, same with the Schottkys, after going thru 2 mos and one diode I gave up. Tip: after soldering, check the D-S of the mosfet to make sure it hasn't faulted in the heat, also be aware that the schottkys and mos (DS) are in parallel connected on the board, so if you do a continuity you may think its a mos fault but its actually schottky and vica versa.
Dont toss them! Try having the switch "on" b4 inserting the battery, I used one of the three I have this way for several years, full power only. Otherwise you could do what I did to salvage them. Overall they are well made and durable except for the pcb. One I took the board out and just ran the switch between the battery in the motor,one speed again but works fine, and it's held up so far despite the switch looking to be a low current switch. The other one I took a controller out of an old drill which had a governer mode vsr, it works good with variable power even. Unfortunately the boards don't repair successfully, it seems after tediously replacing failed parts it still never works again, like they're programmed never run again once they fault. Nice video but feel very let down there is no fix, and even suggest tossing when there is plenty of life left if uou dont need variable speed! A note of caution though: you do have to use common sense and not run your lithium battery down too far or you will damage them! The tool will not shut off to protect the battery once you bypass the original controller!
I agree this rotary tool is junk. Mine has the same problem, and then after it turns on it only works for a few minutes and it goes into limp mode.. Now the dilemma is that I have a bunch of batteries.
reyes02 Ya not sure whats up with these, since this video i have bought 3 more with the exact same thing happening and all of them are like the one in the video. I contacted milwaukee and have yet to hear a response. Im going to stick with dremel brand moving forward. Thanks for the comments.
This is actually one of the worst tools by Milwaukee. Mine got caught in a glove only for like half a second and now it doesn’t start up unless I turn the power dial to 3 or greater. Weak ass motor. Bad design. They should fix it
Same... I got about 3 minutes of use cutting some thin sheet metal with a wheel, and it jammed a few times, for a total of about 5 out of the last 30 seconds, and then it died and made a smell that let me know I had released the magic smoke from the motor controller. Only runs very weakly, and on higher speeds now. VERY dissappointing. It would be sweet if someone could make a kit for upgrading these boards, and maybe the bearings as well. Unfortunately I had bought it in a set of tools, and it was one I didn't open for a long while, until I had call for it.
I've used both Milwaukee & Dremel versions and both are not very durable. Under normal use (no excessive pressure, never used above 1/2 the max RPM), they both failed with not many uses. I was able to find the P/N on Dremel (the control unit & motor) but Milwaukee does not have any. There are 2 sets of numbers inscribed on the motor but neither hit with Google, eBay or anywhere. They should have used control unit engineered & made in Japan, but sadly even Japan is going downhill these days, thanks to made in China, globalization, excessive cost reduction and slave labour. I'm willing to spend extra money on products that are durable & reliable.
