Milwaukee Rotary Tool vs Gyprock Saw Comparison Test

Подписаться 305

Просмотров 42 тыс.

50% 1

Here is a test of cutting plasterboard (drywall) for electrical brackets manually with the gyprock saw, and with an M12 rotary tool and an M18 rotary tool. Here are the specs for both tools below:
Milwaukee C12RT Rotary Tool
Speed: 5,000 - 32,000rpm
Length: 240mm
Weight: 600g (without battery)
Collet: 0.8mm - 3.2mm
Milwaukee M18BCT Cut Out Rotary Tool
Speed: 28,000rpm
LED light: Yes
Length: 227mm
Weight: 840g (without battery)
There are a few factors to consider; manual cutting with over 20 years of experience versus the first try with Milwaukee tools and no experience whatsoever, as well as the non-work environment.
02:09 Gyprock saw (drywall saw) - could have completed the cut quicker than 37 seconds if the plasterboard was fixed as in the proper work conditions without it being flimsy. For the cordless tools, this is not an issue.
03:00 Milwaukee C12-RT - the screw cap fell off half way, but it's been edited as if it was a "seemless" cut. As it's our first time using this tool, the cut out could have been completed in at least 22 seconds where you can see it finishing the second screw hole reveal. Then you would get quicker as the experience builds on.
03:50 Milwaukee M18BCT - This tool is supposed to be the "main" tool for cutting out electrical brackets, but comparing its size and weight (especially with the batteries), we would prefer using the 12V version instead as it would be easier on the handling when you got to cut 70 to 100 holes per day. Similarly to the 12V version, this tool would have completed the cut in 22 seconds or less with experience. We let it go for just under 39 seconds (for "shits & giggles") as the screw holes werent revealed.
04:45 My thoughts. I gave the 12V tool the first place preference and chose the gyprock saw over the M18 tool because of the size, weight and the amount of dust it blows in front of the user.
06:45 Cutting plastic with M12 tool. Good for cutting out switches for lockers and lights in the dash, especially at low speed. It cuts very good and precise (if you mark it out first).
08:05 Cutting metal purlin with the M12 cut-off disc. At 09:36 I said 37000rpm (I think I'm getting blind).
10:05 Cutting more plasterboard
So... let's say you save 15 seconds per hole over the manual cutting, and you have 100 holes to cut in a day. That would equate to 25 minutes of saved time per day. As of April 2020, the C12RT costs $156AUD + battery. The M18BCT costs $219AUD + battery. Do you think it's worth it? Would you get one?

Опубликовано:

29 сен 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 44

@musahodzic9732 4 года назад

Here is a test of cutting plasterboard (drywall) for electrical brackets manually with the gyprock saw, and with an M12 rotary tool and an M18 rotary tool. There are a few factors to consider; manual cutting with over 20 years of experience versus the first try with Milwaukee tools and no experience whatsoever, as well as the non-work environment. 02:09 Gyprock saw (drywall saw) - could have completed the cut quicker than 37 seconds if the plasterboard was fixed as in the proper work conditions without it being flimsy. For the cordless tools, this is not an issue. 03:00 Milwaukee C12-RT - the screw cap fell off half way, but it's been edited as if it was a "seemless" cut. As it's our first time using this tool, the cut out could have been completed in at least 22 seconds where you can see it finishing the second screw hole reveal. Then you would get quicker as the experience builds on. 03:50 Milwaukee M18BCT - This tool is supposed to be the "main" tool for cutting out electrical brackets, but comparing its size and weight (especially with the batteries), we would prefer using the 12V version instead as it would be easier on the handling when you got to cut 70 to 100 holes per day. Similarly to the 12V version, this tool would have completed the cut in 22 seconds or less with experience. We let it go for just under 39 seconds (for "shits & giggles") as the screw holes werent revealed. 04:45 My thoughts. I gave the 12V tool the first place preference and chose the gyprock saw over the M18 tool because of the size, weight and the amount of dust it blows in front of the user. 06:45 Cutting plastic with M12 tool. Good for cutting out switches for lockers and lights in the dash, especially at low speed. It cuts very good and precise (if you mark it out first). 08:05 Cutting metal purlin with the M12 cut-off disc. At 09:36 I said 37000rpm (I think I'm getting blind). 10:05 Cutting more plasterboard So... let's say you save 15 seconds per hole over the manual cutting, and you have 100 holes to cut in a day. That would equate to 25 minutes of saved time per day. As of April 2020, the C12RT costs $156AUD + battery. The M18BCT costs $219AUD + battery. Do you think it's worth it? Would you get one?

@greenzuki4x489 3 года назад

Nice video, im sorry for writting here, but would be nice more afw videos. You are my inspiration 😀 good luck

@jesseechavarria1574 3 года назад

Cool video! Thank you.

@brentcraddock7169 4 года назад

No more holes thru the back wall. How many holes do you think cutter will last for? Always surprises me the air con guys still cut vent holes by hand

@musahodzic9732 4 года назад

Haha 😂 do people cut straight through the back wall? 😂😂 They reckon the bigger M18 machine on 3Ah battery can cut 150 holes on a single charge, so I reckon the smaller can do the same or more on a 6Ah M12 battery, which is still lighter than the bigger one with the 3Ah. Yeah, I see what you mean, but in all honesty, there's more control cutting by hand, in terms of feel. Like, if you haven't tucked your cables properly during the rough-in, you can easily nick them or even cut them with the cordless tools as you can't feel them. That'll then waste more time repairing. Similar with aircon ducting. Oh, and if you've tucked everything away nicely, you'd have to rely on other trades not disturbing any of that until the time comes to do the cutout. So yeah, there are pro's and con's with both.

@sonofwilliam4596 3 года назад

Just curious if your ever worried about cutting cables sitting behind the wall?

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

Yeah 😂 always. So I still use the manual saw 🤣🤣🤣

@ilikerealmaplesyrup 3 года назад

@@musahodzic9732 you can just cut the bit to the exact thickness of the dry wall and never worry about it.

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

@@ilikerealmaplesyrup you can, but it needs to protrude a little bit to follow the bracket around and a lot of the times the brackets might be bent a little which would require setting the bit a little deeper, then defeats the purpose. I'm still happy and feel more comfortable cutting out manually. Not a great time differences.

@alamoalamo5929 3 года назад

I burned my m 18 out don't last at all for commercial work

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

Oh no! Could it be the dust buildup? Would Milwaukee exchange it under warranty?

@alamoalamo5929 3 года назад

Idk I'm about to find out it took 9 months for it to burn out disappointing

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

@@alamoalamo5929 😩😞

@mumbles1justin 3 года назад

I was on the fence getting m12 rotary tool, m12straight die grinder or m18 rotary tool. But after seeing that the m12 rotary tool doesn’t appear to bog down like a normal Dremel tool, I think Ill be buying an M12 rotary tool in the morning. Great video. Thanks!

@Aepek 2 года назад

Just to note, when using a drywall cutout tool, going counterclockwise is best, as gives more control and makes it easier to cut. Going clockwise, rotation of bit, can cause tool to grab, run away and over cut some areas. Granted, sometimes you need to go in opposite direction than the norm (counterclockwise), I know this, but for majority of work for a drywall cutout tool (rotary tool, and router) counterclockwise is best. ¹ Thx for comparison vid✌🏻 ¹ edited for this Clockwise for inside cuts, like cutting out drywall for inside a door frame. Counterclockwise for cutting on outside of say a electrical box Doing this will help prevent digging in and “running away”. Also like said, if get really good and experienced, can probably go either way and be just fine. Just like most Pros will remove bit guard/the depth stop guard; and this is also done for when cutting out can lights, ducting, etc….that’s up to far and having this guard on, makes it really hard (impossible at times) to cut anything.

@everardom9770 Год назад

If you getting the Milwaukee rotary tool get the dremel tool spiral guide (565) and the dremel multi pro chuck. It will make things easier especially if you want to use it to cut drywall. It will make the tool 100x better

@vegandew 3 года назад

Excellent test review & comparison. Thank you for sharing it.

@snuffy25454 3 года назад

Don’t let this fool you from the fact that this is Thor undercover

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

HAHAHA

@ericcook4665 11 месяцев назад

I've got this old dewalt router I've had for years and I've been hanging board for 34 years and I've tried probly almost all the routers on the market the dewalt I've had is the best and has the most miles stagering amount of miles only changed the brushes once

@wim0104 3 года назад

Good demo of the power tools, but your stab/jabsaw is junk: we use slightly larger saws here in Texas, with a sharp point on the end, stiffer blade, bigger teeth, and a bigger handle.

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

Yeah true! It's an old saw, like over 20 years. It's perfect for the metal brackets as the teeth are worn so it just glides past it. I still use it over the power tool as I can feel the cables with it in the back. I tried a brand new Milwaukee saw but the teeth are too sharp and it's annoying me being caught on the bracket. Not a biggie, but it's those little things...

@wim0104 3 года назад

good to hear you feel around with that saw!

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

😂😂😂

@qx4n9e1xp Год назад

It's also important to have the right bit! Regular drill bits WON'T work. I used to use an m18 chuck drill at high speed, with a tiny trill bit, but it was always slow, sometimes even breaking the bit. Regular drill bits with a cylindrical outside face won't cut outwards. Drywall bits have more of a ninja star shape, or razor edge lines. No smooth faces at all to get stuck in one spot like a regular drill bit. It's designed to always cut & move around.

@mmuller3233 3 года назад

great testing review.

@amohvac27 3 года назад

I just found your channel. Awesome videos. I have a question. What if I have drywall and a metal sheet behind the drywall and I need to cut a perfect 6" circle past both materials? What would be the best tool to do so? Thank you so much for any feedback 🙏🙏🙏

@ajpalafo 3 года назад

A 6” hole saw only cut half inch deep so you don’t go into the metal or damage the teeth that way you’ll get a perfect circle!

@elliotsaxon7070 Год назад

Only concern is hitting the wires

@ammaralamdar9444 3 года назад

Thanks for your review

@mrgetlaid0329 3 года назад

is there a tip to make housing for door hitches and door knobs??

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

There are templates for them already available.

@paulteller7994 3 года назад

Cool

@miket2172 3 года назад

Drywall router is the proper term

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

Probably for Yanks. Not for Australians. We never call plasterboard "drywall", it's mainly called "gyprock" after the common brand here. Here, from Milwaukee Australia: www.milwaukeetool.com.au/power-tools/speciality-tools/rotary-tools/C12RT-0.html

@andrewshular7145 3 года назад

I encourage you to learn how to use a drywall router properly! Make sure your bits have guide points its 100x easier for beginners. If you dont have a guide point, it's making that horrible noise because you're applying too much pressure and again non guidepointed drywall bits are not recommended for beginners, if you do have the guide point you have to use it man

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

No point man, quicker and neater by hand 😅

@DriversFromHere 3 года назад

You should compared the dust one does compared to the other...

@johanbolanos6 3 года назад

Con subtítulos en español tankyou

@mictone1 3 года назад

The m12 tool you were using looks like a die grinder, right?

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

Yeah, looks like it, but they call it the rotary tool. Die grinder is also available.

@AERuffy 3 года назад

It's a beefed up small rotary tool, aka dremel clone. The M12 die grinder is a separate tool with a 1/4" collect. It is stronger with a brushless motor, and it's larger. There is also an M18 Cut-Out tool which is larger than the die grinder but not brushless. It's more akin to a smaller handheld router. All of these are rotary tools that fit different niches.

@musahodzic9732 3 года назад

@@AERuffy that's right 👍

@jermgrandrang 3 года назад

@@AERuffy But do you think a die grinder would work as well ? I was thinking of buying a die grinder for the flexibility of the tool. More power, more opportunities ?