Resin with baby powder to fill in layer lines! That right there is an incredibly, mind-blowing tip. All cos-players watching this should thank you profusely, buy you some coffee!
The result is just amazing! I love how 3D printing is like 15-20% of the total time. Really shows that the really important part is indeed craftsmanship.
What i get from watching this video is with determination and practice you can achieve anything and expired resin still work well and i don't need to throw it away,awesome.
I can't believe you used 6 year old expired resin specifically in the hopes it would be yellow due to being expired and having to deal with the "problem" that despite its expiration it turned out "perfectly" against your hopes. Quite amusing.
Outstanding Walk through video! Thank you so much for producing. You are one of the only 3D Print artists that mentioned ensuring you captured the micro plastics! This in itself is admired. x from New Zealand.
You are talented. You asked if it was worth it. One of my granddaughters is BIG into StarWars. If I had the equipment and talent, yes it’s worth it. Thank You
ive used the superglue and baking soda as filler trick before on joints but baby powder and uv resin sounds great, cant wait to try that , i bet its much easier to sand
4:21 TEN?! 5:24 Okay, that's funny. 5:59 I get jealous every time I see this kind of finish. I would love to try to attempt this kind of work one day. 10:28 I know... I knoooooow!
Looks absolutely great, like a prop from the Movies. The only thing missing is a little weathering for the used Star Wars look, but that's a matter of taste. 😁
This looks awesome, your hard work really paid off. A few years ago I tried my hand at electroplating 3d prints, I did one Star Trek Holo-emitter in nickel, said "wow cool, that was a lot of work and really messy" and then gave up. If I ever had a big project that required mirror finish metallic surfaces I might try again
Thanks for the great video! Lots of practical information, adding the time it takes for the steps is very useful. The proof that it works is shown and looks amazing. Many thanks.
I always use uv resin and baby powder on my fdm prints, saves a lot of time. I'm so interested in the electroplating. Have been watching your videos all the time but not took the plunge yet
Would be great to do a dedicated video teaching to make homemade conductive paints, like the graphite+glue and copper+acetone. And maybe homemade electrolyte liquid as in some places, like mine, neither is easy to find. Cheers!
Absolutely fantastic! As always! No idea why anyone would give it a thumbs down. I just checked the pricing of the 5 liter acidic copper plating solution you're using... And you need 10 of them. Pfew! I hope the manufacturer is sponsoring your channel. Thumbs up from me!
Would love to see a video maybe on things that can go wrong during the plating process, and how best to avoid them. Also, I've never had much success with sanding as the layer always starts to peel off before I can get to the higher grit sand papers. Maybe I just need to go gentler as the pieces spend a long time in the bath so I don't think the thickness is the issue.
Gorgeous! Very cool technique. That magical little tiny power sander you used at 6:06 is going to be a game changer for me, though. I've wanted something like that for years, for fine detail sanding of complex parts. Never found one before. Thanks for the link!
Wow! Having built a full C3PO myself while using a gold chrome spray can (which you can't touch or put anything over the top!) , I'm so impressed with what you've done, the finish! Are you going to do the whole thing now 😁(I'm currently building a full size R2 as well!). Excellent work! I'm watching your IronMan as well now... I love these tutorials you are doing about electroplating. I want to make some custom jewellery just for fun... Happy making!
Beautiful results and thank you x 100 for the video showing your technique! I'm less patient, and the parts where you are polishing it turn me off. I recently tried 3D laser sintering printing in stainless steel, followed by powder coating. It gives me the shiny metal surface. -Frank
Beautiful. My man, can you put together a detailed tutorial of the most basic setup so that beginners like myself with say an Anycubic Photon Mono can cheaply electroplate. With shopping lists and step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.
There are some mirror finish metallic spray paints that have been out for a few years that come surprisingly close to that appearance however. So one may want to do a comparison for surface prep and costs. (I suspect the rattle-can stuff not only saves time, but is likely a lot cheaper.)
Surfaces scale quadratically, Volumes scale in a cubic manner. Doubling the sides of a rectangle you get 2^2 = 4 times the area. Doubling the edges of a cube you get 2^3 = 8 times the volume.
Moin Dude. Thank you for you videos and Time. I want to get startet with elktroplaying myself, to expand my 3D Printing Hobby. Could u maybe make an Updated Full Tutorial vid? I have seen your "Rotary Jig" but no Explanation how its works. Also maybe what Products u use and where to procure them. Maybe also a Vid explaing your Fail´s and how to Problem solve them. Sry for the Request Overload :D Keep up the good Work!
Do you have a few resources that you have used to learn? I'm very interested in electroplating, but the cost and my lack of knowledge on the subject poses as a barrier
Good morning, my friend. I have been following your work for a long time and I have to congratulate you on your excellent work and very explanatory videos. My question is about the paint you made using copper powder and acetone. Do you have any more information about the copper powder, any specifications, is it electrolytic? I believe this is a question that many people have. Thank you very much.
Hi, I use a commercial conductive copper paint that is very thick and i thin it down to make it airbrushable. This paint is not conductive when applied but when it gets into contact with acid. Then it suddenly becomes super conductive. I have yet to make my own, but that's what I'm trying to cover in the next videos or so. I know that getting conductive copper paint is a hassle when not in the EU, so sticking to DIY conductive graphite paint in the meantime is a good alternative AFAIK
Id love to get the materials to do this at home but all of the links are for amazon in Germany. I cant seem to find the equivalent materials for the US. Any chance you could add some affiliate links for the US subscribers? either way I love what your doing here and i hope you keep up the great work.
I collect and recycle spilled liquids and reuse the electrolytes over and over by maintaining them. My electrolytes are still the original ones that I’ve bought back in 2018y
Absolutely incredible! For the small parts do you bother going into blender to calculate the surface area or are you using your experience and guestamating?
is it possible to replicate the effect you see on some modified car/motorcycle exhaust. where the tip is blue from heat and slowly fades over purple to a golden color. i'm asking because i'm about to start the famous 3DjetEngine and would love to blue heat discoloring effect on some of the prints. i would be greatful if you made a video about it if it's possible.
This is so cool, love your work 🫣 I have a question as I’m working on a small project myself. For small tiny parts that are SLA printed, what can I do to smoothen the surface?
Hi HEN3DRIK. Amazing work, congrats! After watching your video like 5 times :D I have a question. When you take the part out at 8:03 its matte then on 8:05 is super shiny. What happened? have you changed anything, or you polished in between?
Good catch. I missed a dubbing. the matte is after 1 hour. I wanted to show what it should look like after that time. 8:05 is after 4 hours when the brightner kicked in
@@hen3drik After how many hours does it usually turn from matte to shiny? Do you change anything in the current for that or just keep it constant at 1 A/dm^2?
@HEN3DRIK Great video and work. It's so incredible the will it takes to accomplish what you have. Are you familiar with the work of ViKtor Schauberger? I'd love to see a continuation of his work and I think that you have the potential
I wouldn't use resin for filler, I found good results from Big Boy car body filler. It is very versatile and easy to use like a 2 part epoxy which sets hard in about 15 minutes ready to sand and paint. I've also used a soldering iron and spare PLA off the roll to fix parts that need strength and then smooth them over while the soldering iron cools down. Definitely turned out great. I would agree with Homer: If something takes a long time to do, it's probably not worth it. But that's just me
Using resin as filler literally takes seconds to harden. And since it's resin on resin, there is no separation and very little to sand. It also utilizes the same materials you already have on hand. I've used resin filler on resin parts for years. Car filler is good if you have large parts to fill where it would take forever to brush in resin. But on small blemishes and seams, resin is 1000% easier and faster and much less fumes.
@@cuthwulf I see. Thanks. Although there's no fumes for car body filler either. I was just looking at the results as it was applied and thought it wasn't very smooth. But if it bonds well with the material (I thought it was PLA so didn't know this) then it's probably going to give a better finish when sanded)
echt krass, wirklich....verkaufst du die? ich mein ich könnt das auch selber machen, aber der aufwand und alles zu besorgen wäre wesentlich teurer denke ich....
Man how do you get that shine right out the bath? All my electroplates come out rough and i need to wet sand before polishing. Truely you are a master at your craft.
I try to deposit very slow with the correct current and an even electrical field. I maintain the bath that it has no dirt in it and polish the conductive paint carefully before plating
