So I just bought my first Mini, it's a 2008 with a blown motor. I paid a whopping 500 bucks for it. I picked the car up on Tuesday and tonight it sits the same as this one. I had never even sat in a Mini before this, and I owe it all to your videos Eric. I kid you not, I have watched this video every night over and over. When it's garage time I go out and go as far as I can remember until I forget what you did next, then I come back in and watch it again and go back out the next night. I think by the end I'll be able to do this one armed and blindfolded!
Eric, videos like this are where you shine the most. I love watching these instructional videos where you give us so much personality and helpful hints. Thank you brother, these help a lot!
You all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my login password. I would love any tips you can give me
There is an added benifit to filming a job, you can skim back through the raw footage later if you're not sure about something, your own video haynes manual. That came apart without tears, smashing job eric :-D. Woven seatbelts are very strong, i have mates that use them too.
The Seatbelt idea sounds and looks great! I bet its allso softer on the plastic parts then chaning would be. Thanks for the tip and the video! Cheers Timppa.
I watched the first 25 seconds and thought to myself "Eric is going to use a can opener to get the engine out". I love these short clips from the mini series. JD
Another good video! While that engine bay seems very packed and complicated, it's not really that bad a job. I've discovered that it's usually easiest to remove an engine the opposite way that the factory installed it, which is what you've done here for the most part! Like you, I have a lift, which makes this kind of work much easier :)
It sure is a lot easier when you don’t have the front end, I do swap engines under recall sc147 for Kia and I have to take the hood off or sometimes I take the subframe out with the steering rack and get the engine from the bottom, my best time has been 2:45 minuets when taking out the 4 banger, the V6 and AWD not so much fun maybe 4:30 hours.
Hi Eric! Have you ever done a video of removing a drivetrain with a fantry crane lifting the front of the car off the front subframe? Some folks prefer it, but it's all a matter of personal taste and using what you have. Great video man!
I have removed engines via the subframe in the past using a lift and a dolley. However, this engine/transmission doesn't use that style of support as you can see in the video.
Looks like an knuckle busting bundle of joy. I was thinking at one time getting one of these but I think I’ll pass now. Please keep the vids on this beast coming.
Thank you very much for posting this video. I came here to see what a cheap 2K CL Mini needs in the way of grief, and watching you has caused me to pass. Gotta have a lift for that repair. I will stay bored with my 240 Volvo. Stay well.
One of the first jobs I had as an apprentice was a clutch on one of these, 7 years in and I wonder why this car didn’t put me off going into another trade. Good job I don’t think I made it look as easy haha
I think I need some electric hand tools. You don't realize doing it, but wrenching everything out by hand makes a few hour job take a full day... or two. Even twisting as fast as you can, in an easily accessible place, a single bolt can take 5x longer. It adds up.
Did you watch the video or just comment? Also, please realize I was a flat rate mechanic fo years. I know how valuable time is. That said, thank you for your input.
Seatbelts are CRAZY strong. They have to be. The testing on these things is amazing. The shock strength is beyond anything you would experience (and survive). Seen the testing before, and anybody that doubts their capability...yea. Would I pick up 2 ton with it? No...but that's what lifting straps are for.
Yeah, a seatbelt can easily lift the weight of an average car. It's not going to have any problems with an engine. Crash forces are absolutely immense.
Eric! Assuming those plastic electrical plugs w/the metal clips are the same as the BMW plugs, you just need to squeeze them in. No need to remove the metal clip part. I learned the hard way....
You're correct - they are the same - you just squeeze/push the metal clip and then pull the connector to disconnect. To connect, you just push down the connector so you hear the click (it is the metal clip that goes over two small plastic tabs - one on each side). BMW used these for at least 40 years now (see them all the time on my E30 323i -85 for example).
Happy Memorial Day ERIC! hope its a safe one with you and yours. Asa non-mechanic/technician I enjoy watching you preform your skills and abilities. I'm poking fun t this series "format". If this was a true "MINI-SERIES", we would have a few seconds of VIDEO (not a thumbnail link) for the lost posting at the beginning and a "scenes from our next episode" at the end! Just having fun. . .KEEP ON. KEEPING ON!
I agree - It happened to me. Hired a mechanic to rebuild a piece of heavy equipment. No problems he said. He knew where the bolts went. Well he quit before the job was completed. I have five gallon buckets full of bolts and such. The machine is pretty much scrap now.
Eric, long time watcher. Let me know when this Mini goes to market. I just recently got into an accident with my 2000 Jeep Cherokee and have always loved these mini’s.
Japanese cars = even metric sockets & torx, German cars = odd metric sockets, torx bits & manufacturer specific tools, American cars = LETS SPIN THAT ROULETTE WHEEL BABY!!!
Da-n dude ,you gonna remember where all that stuff goes? Last engine I worked on was a "63" dodge slant six in the "70s", and thought that was hard. You should be working for NASA on a space project. Very entertaining great vids, your vids should be used in a trade school. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome! Many thanks for this video. I'm about to remove the engine from our son's Mini (in Lancashire, England). This is a great help. I'm most of the way through the front-end removal, thanks to your FIRST video. I take it the exhaust was already disconnected on yours?.........I didn't spot that part on the videos.
You do have to be careful when using any kind of strap to pull or move engines. The one down side to straps/seat belts is they can get cut and tear/break. Seat belts are pretty tough but they can still get cut. I was recently loading a engine into a van when the strap I was using was cut by the sharp corner of a cylinder head. Which let the engine drop to ground and crush the sump on the oil pan. Luckily I was just lifting it when it happened so it was only about a foot and half off the ground. I prefer using chains but I was in a rush and didn't have a chain handy. Good tip on the fasteners/hardware. I like using small tool/tackle boxes or in a pinch even some zip lock bags to organize and store the hardware.
Eric, one topic I don't recall you tackling is the "while you are in there" mentality... particularly as it related to project cars. I find myself falling into this trap all the time with my projects... go in for one thing and find more - which you have spoken to the spend on the Fairmont. What I mean is more like, how do I feel good about not replacing everything when I have it loose/off. The logic of replacement always makes sense, so I find myself going all in all the time... as a professional, it might be easier to justify the limts (although you have spoken to the responsibility of a mechanic). I know we aren't watching live, but it relates to this project pretty well - just a thought and curiosity on my part.
I've replaced high pressure fuel pump son these cars twice now and I just used a ballpoint pen to depress the indent in the fuel line coupling. Never had issues with it leaking in my experience but better safe than sorry.
for bolts and fasteners i would also reccomend bagging the bolts and parts from the different suff in there and making notes with marker on the bag.... it can become a tad more tedious but the end reward is that no bolts are "left over" in the assembly
hey eric, you dont need to pull the metal retainers out of those electrical connectors like on the gearbox at 11:47. you can push them in and they will come off. working on euro cars every day here in the netherlands ;). great video!
I may have missed it. Is there a sub frame that needs to be dropped before removing the motor? Fantastic videos by the way. I'm about to rebuild an R56/N18 motor that the previous owner over heated.
Sorry to disagree ErIc with the other comments I think this one isn't particularly well shot, it is helpful but I think it could have been much better for such a big job. If it was meant to be a detailed removal process I think it misses the mark imho. However you do a great job overall with your content, I also understand you have a business to run.
OK I am nearly 2 years late Eric but maybe I can help people. @ 11:53 you took out the wire clip to free the electric plug. Don't need to do that just push the clip IN and pull the plug off. Yep I learned the hard way after losing a wire clip ... Lovely clear presentation though mate well done. Oh and forgive me but those electrical connectors aren't German ...lol
Eric, I have the same vehicle (2010), and am going to need to pull the engine. I'm assuming the videos edited, so how much "labor time" actually went into doing the engine removal? You made this look EASY 😂 ... Great video!!!
Just noticed the 1 million subscribers, congratulations Eric, I know you worked hard for it and you most certainly deserve it! P.s. If it's your birthday, HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
Ah the lovely THP engine ( Peugeot/ BMW engine as we know it over in England ) Timing chain kit , oil feed pipes ( the updated type that doesn't leak from the top 'swivel ' part on the banjo ) Also worth checking the inlet VVT pulley solenoid that's hidden behind the inlet to throttle body pipe, had a few bite me in the arse as they're known for breaking up and creating a misfire situation without fault codes. Inlet side of head also worth walnut blasting as they gum up bad
That has camera isn't that bad of a idee, it beats moving the camera on a tripod around.I was considering doing that myself but was afraid it had too much movement. but it isn't that bad.
I was one of them. It's not so bad in this one, but in the one last week it was borderline motion-sickness inducing for me, and I'm normally pretty resistant to that. Are there cameras that have super aggressive image stabilization like the more recent iPhones have? Maybe you could use one of those so it doesn't appear quite so shaky.
I don't think it is the stabilizing. I think it is the fast head movement and sway. But you have great dynamic footage and that is awesome. I think this is a steep learning curve but if you master it you have great footage.
I've got to admit, I had no interest in watching the Mini series. I was kind of bummed that you were doing these because I, and probably many diyers will never lay hands on one so I didn't see a point in watching it. But after watching one video I'm glad I did. Still cool to see ETCG do his thing even if I'll never work on one :) I bet you would get a lot more views doing ford/chevy/dodge videos though! Love your channel.
When I see an engine removal like this it reminds me of how many many years ago some friends and I got together to remove and replace the engine on a 1988 Hyundai Excel (this was back in 1992). We were very meticulous about disconnecting and labeling all of the hoses and electrical connectors. We used a chain pulley and a heavy tree branch as our hoist. All went well except that no one bothered to remove the gasket material from the intake manifold. Also, we yanked the torque converter out along with the long block, lol. When we put it all together we had quite a gusher of coolant out of the intake / head mating surface and there was a puddle of transmission fluid under the car. As a bunch of "never have done this before but how hard can it be?" 20 year olds, we got saved by my buddy;s dad who was a mechanic. My friend and I still laugh about this. He ended up becoming a master technician for Izuzu and I went on the become a machine programmer at a major automotive parts manufacturer.
I often organize parts on the ground in the same form as the part. If i am taking out a bumper/front end i lay out the bolts i the form of the bumper, so i know where each bolt was.
Thank you for all the tips in replacing the timing chain and others. Could you please advise how can I determine the engine model? And getting the right replacement. Many thanks Mehdi
I find it easier to drop the exhaust, gear linkage, clutch pipe, strut top mounts etc.. you can drop the engine, gearbox and cradle all in 1 lump, i find it quicker to do that than just removing the engine and box because that's the way it's installed at the factory.
plc- tek unfortunately that method doesn’t really work in front wheel drive cars, because the engine mounts that actually support the engine and transmission are bolted directly to the frame rail, which is a part of the car’s unibody. The only exceptions to that rule I believe are the Oldsmobile Toranado, and the big Chrysler cars from the early 90s to the mid 2000s due to having a longitudinally mounted engine.
I think the phrase you were looking for is "pinch point". Be careful where you put your hands, you don't want to put them in a pinch point. Definition of pinch point: A place where it is possible for two objects to come together on your body parts and cause anything from an ouch to dismemberment. 😉
