Hi Nobby It was was a pleasure to join you on the journey👍👍 I have similar problems with my Mill chucks, one day i will get around to modifying them😄😄😄😄👍👍👍👍👍👍 see you next time atb Kev
Hi Nobby. Interesting video. Many ways to make a draw bar. Handy to be able to bronze braze for jobs like this. I have a 3/4" Jacobs chuck bought new and same as the 16 mm is really a bit useless as most drill bits stop at 13 mm (including small shanked ones) and as you discovered the chuck can't grip less than 2 or 3 mm. So it sits in the drawer looking very expensive and impressive but never gets used ;) Also I always have the machine running when I knock a Morse taper free from a quill, as it prevents marking the bearing roller race as can occur when hitting in one position. Quite safe to do this at low speed. Many people do up draw bars way too tight, which makes it difficult to remove. Total overkill, just consider the light pressure applied when fitting a Morse in a lathe tailstock. Cheers Rob
Thanks for watching the video Rob. I'm careful not to over tighten the draw bar and the head lock on the mill. A light pressure is all that's needed. I don't use large drills in the mill, as the motor won't take it. That Jacobs chucks sounds like a real beast! ATB Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. Next time you want to cut a square on the end of a rod try using the side of the cutter. It preserves the sharp corners on the cutter. Also you get a nice blend onto the rod and you can cut two sides in one setting. If you get a hexagon block in the future cut a hex on the end and a combination or ring spanner will work well. Easier to locate and does not fall off when tightening.
