You really are an inspiration. I will never be able to have my own house and shop. Just won’t happen. But… I’ll always try. This is exactly the way I would live if I were able to do so. Thank you for sharing.
Love the hacks, innovative solutions and operation of the Grader. Trailer and Ball for Blade pull etc. Some Orange flashing clearance lights would be my only addition. Great Hydraulics. A demo of all functions was nice.
Have you tried running closer to the ditch with the blade angled further as that will make the blade cut the roots better and will make the dirt/gravel roll bettet
frank i love the drone work, the grader is looking beautiful to. that is a true road grader , the way every thing moves and how it runs . it is a true machine not a toy. i love to watch you run it. i bet that grader would be killer with a small three cylinder cubota diesel engine. it looks like it is running ok with the engine it has now.
I should just swap the wheels. Been told many times but have also heard competing opinions. I don't think it matters in my situation, but it's all about the optics sometimes! Thanks.
Nice work and example. Wish I had one about that size or larger. Nice concept and development. Wonder how it works in Snow that clears it to the side. 🙂 No joke - bug retardant - Listerine normal - spray pump and they bug off. Works. The semi-pro gardeners in town discovered it or got it from another association.
Not much. Maybe weld the spider in one or both of the rear differentials. With open differentials, it's easier to spin a wheel, so it loses traction at times. I have chains that I am planning to put on the tires at some point. If I weren't focused on "Cub Cadet" and just wanted to make a mini grader, I'd put a small diesel in it and and a thousand pounds of weight.
Hey Frank, I noticed that when you use the blade controls the rear tires stop spinning. If your running your blade of of rear dif hydraulic system maybe should try using the front one. That way your rear tires will grab more traction when blade is down. Since you have solid mount axles when you put down pressure on blade the front drive axle is lifting slightly causing loss of traction. I know it probably seems minor but every little bit helps when trying to push dirt.
The first video is a video about it and then he has a few more after that talking about how he built it. Have you seen the dozer he built out of cub cadet mowers or the forklift which was his most recent build? He has videos of building the dozer and forklift all the way from start to finish.
If you are looking to add traction liquid fill the tires between 75-80% fill (valve stem at top dead center) on a 23x10.50-12 tire you are looking at 80lbs+ per tire of additional traction at around 3-5psi tire it will also keep the wheel spin to a minimum based on the weight of that machine this is a good starting point. Equipment needed to do this garden sprayer 2-3gallon, 1/4 inch id vinyl tubing, tire valve stem tool, a jack with jackstands, patience, tire inflation pump with low pressure tire gauge(0-30psi is Common) 10.5 gallons of liquid ballast of your choosing per pair of tires. Jack machine up and pla e on jackstands, Take the garden sprayerand remove the wand and hose, install vinyl tubing in place of the wand, remove tire valve core, install vinyl tubing over tire valve stem (keeping valve stem at 12:00 position) fill sprayer with chosen ballast fluid, pump up sprayer to fill tire when it stops filling release sprayer tank pressure to bleed air pressure out of tire (repeat until fluid starts to exit from valve stem when releasing tire pressure). Remove vinyl tubing and reinstall valve core into valvestem pump tire up to 3-5psi recap the valve stem, repeat for each tire until finished
I have a special tire valve adapter to fill the tires. Many of my other tractors have liquid ballast in them. These tires will take a max of 6 gallons each. I use windshield washer fluid. But yes, they need to be filled and I need to add chains. Future video maybe.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 my reply is a good go to for anyone looking to fill their tires without the special valve as they can be very pricey. I have many machines with filled tires and have never used the special valve outside of when I worked on military construction machinery (as both a mechanic and operator).
Another way, very simple, is to lay the tire flat on the ground, break the bead and fill it with a bucket or hose that way. Then re seat the bead and air it up a bit.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 yup but that isn't as acurrate at filling multiple tires to nearly identical amounts (within 5%). And comes with a high mess probability... My technique works both tubed and tubeless. I also cannot recommend putting more than 5.25 gallons in a 23x10.50-12 as that exceeds 80% fill (20%air is needed for fluid expansion near ballast freeze temp., as well as to allow tire flex to absorb bumps and terrain irregularities this is also why you run a lower air pressure with ballasted tires as liquids don't compress while air does. Usually between 1/2-2/3 factory pressure specs for the machine.
Frank chains may help but have you considered adding weights like you did to the forklift with the chains and weights you should get better traction or liquid ballast to the tires
have watched you build this and the others. the spoil should roll off the blade . it is not radiused enough. too flat .only part you did not build. very nice machine.
It would roll better with more blade angle the radius is ok but 45-60degree angling from straight works better for ditching (getting material to roll uphill requires more blade angle) also he may want to add additional cutting edge to the blade sides especially when ditching... I used to run the blade cutting edge tilted between 15°positive to 10°negative plane angle but that would add more adjustments and additional hydraulics to add this feature to his machine and isn't worth it on this small of a machine considering it was rolling at such a shallow left to right angle if he increased his blade angle further left to right offsetting to the limit away from the ditch and basically ditched while straddling the cutting point it would've worked even better as this would basically center the machines weight on the cutting point. (tricks from an ex equipment operator)
