I follow this fella to the "T" and it is definitely worthwhile. He is exceptionally knowledgeable so much so I went as far as purchasing (or replacing inferior equipment I have had) every piece of equipment he shows in this video. Yes, it cost quite a bit for a residential DIY fanatic (me) but I like to have the right tools. Couple that with his definitive explanation and now I have a well-running Dual mini-split system and a happy wife. He has been incredibly generous with his time and is very patient in his explanations, and no I am not related to him. I have found that it is not necessary to jump around to different RU-vid HVAC presentations as you will not find any better than Mr. Stuzman.
Thank you very much Norman and the most important info that I picked up in this comment is that the wife is happy! And when you can do that, you're making lots of progress in life :)) Have a great day Norman and glad to hear that your unit is working well!
*It’s: Pretty. Quiet. **Fastly.Cool** in my room. Works wellLittle of hassle to install was TOTALLY worth it. I’m loving it so far. I recommend watching the installation video and taking it slow~*
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ru-vid.comUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
Mr Stuzman. I can't thank you enough for your mini split videos. I have watched all four and after watching I decided to install a 18Kbtu mini split heat pump myself in my garage workshop. I followed all your processes from bending and flaring the line set, torquing the flare nuts and pressure testing with nitrogen. I was able to vacuum my system down to a stable 198 microns. Using the two core removal tools proved to be good advice. The system is working great. Thank you for your expertise in showing your install process. I appreciated it very much. Thank your wife for the excellent camera work too.
It's really great Carl to hear that you did a great job with the installation of your mini-split. I'll tell the wife about her filming and wish the best for you and your family! Have a great day!
Thank you! I've spent many hours trying to learn best practices for muni split install and line set bending/flaring etc and your videos are hands down the most informative. Somehow you manage to cover everything. Great job.
I don't know if you still monitor this video, Mr Stuzman, but I want you to know that it's very nice to view a thoughtful/helpful (and extremely practical) video made by a fellow southerner. I really wish there were many many more like it. A whole lot less BS and a whole lot more down to earth information is what folks struggling to make ends meet actually need to keep from being taken advantage of by those who would prey on people in need. Our 12-year old Mitsubishi mini split went down after a nearby lightning strike, so we've been without AC for most of the summer. Considering that the insurance company offered us just over $300 to have repair work performed - and the local HVAC thieves wanted as much as $10K to replace our (single zone) mini split system - we decided to buy our own system and give it a go: we didn't have much choice. The point being that your video has gone an awful long way toward giving us the confidence to test out our own new system before possibly wasting the expensive refrigerant that came with our 24K BTU condenser unit! Thank you, sir, I have both liked and subscribed to your channel.
10K to install a single stage unit is pretty high. Good for you to install the system yourself and save some money. Since your last unit was taken out by a lightning strike, you may want to consider installing a suppression unit on the voltage input side of the system. Good luck with your install. Thanks for watching and sharing a comment. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for the reply, Terry. I'd like to ask you a question, sir. Why is your BluVac micron gauge mounted the way that it is? Is that a special adapter you're using to get more clearance for the gauge?
@@user-cd7jx2td8n The bent tubing that you see attached to the micron gauge comes with the micron gauge. If you're referring to the valve underneath it, that was installed to keep refrigerant oil from contaminating the sensor located in the micron gauge. Otherwise, when the refrigerant oil gets on the sensor, it would have to be cleaned. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Hi Terry ~ Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. By the way, I wanted to ask for your thoughts on my vacuum procedure. Late Thursday night, after completing a successful nitrogen pressure test, I set everything up exactly as you did in this video. The only things different in my setup were the absence of the bent 45-degree tubing I already asked about and the fact that I used a CPS VG200 micron gauge. It took roughly 10 minutes to get the vacuum in the setup down to 180 microns. About 20 minutes later, however, the vacuum had changed to 340 microns. As this reading was below the 500 micron limit, I went ahead and released the refrigerant stored in our new outdoor condenser unit. So far, the system seems to be working well, but I still wanted to ask you if the 160 micron reduction in vacuum that I observed (over 20 minutes) was a cause for concern?
@@user-cd7jx2td8n No, there is no need for concern on 160 micron level. It's normal for the system to pull to a lower level while the vacuum pump is running. And then when you close the valve and turn off the vacuum pump, the micron level will rise. The key is that it doesn't continue rising after a few minutes which signifies a leak. Another video that you may find interesting about a rising vacuum level is this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cI6pSBaskjc.html Have a great weekend!
I viewed the entire playlist; Mini-Split Heat Pump Install, Pressure Test and Vacuum. I wanted to thank you for the very professional, educational, and enjoyable series of videos. The subject matter, camera work, and detailed information included in the videos is first rate. I can tell that you are passionate about the projects that you tackle and way you present the information makes it easy to follow and understand. I’m currently installing a mini-split in my garage. Your videos convinced me of the importance of pressure testing with nitrogen and using a micron gauge instead of relying on the compound gauge to determine when a sufficient vacuum level had been reached. I spent more money on tools than I had planned, but It’s like they say: “The cheap comes out expensive”. Better to do it right the first time than to have to do it over. Thank again and keep up the good work!!
Thank you Edward for the comment and glad to hear that you found the videos informative. Just trying to get information out there for viewers like yourself who wants to install their own unit. It sounds like you're way ahead of the game to do the job right. Good luck on your install.
wyattoneable It’s not bad at all Wyatt, and I know that you could do the same thing with no problems. I just picked things up over the years; nothing special. 😀👍
Man, you're a genius. First helped a few years ago to repair Jetta VR6 Secondary Air Injection (reused that part after soaking it... still working years later).. and the door latch repair.... and now Mini-Splits. You're the man!
I follow several HVAC channels as I am fanatic when it comes to technical DYI information. I must say you are by far The best of the best when it comes to doing everything by the book and technically correct. My hats off to you for a museum quality installation and excellent quality video and narration.
Humm! This is the first video I've watched. You did a fantastic job, but Craig over at A/C svc may have you beat. Lol. Seriously though, I just subscribed and I'm looking forward to watching more of your content.
Thanks again Stutzman. Here's what I did to vacuum my last mini install. I nitrogen tested my system, - tested good. I then slowly released the nitrogen until my gauge read low. I immediately put the valve removal tool on the mini port and the micron gauge directly on the valve removal tool.(mini core was already out). I vacuumed the system down to ~110 microns and shut the core tool valve off and let it sit for ten minutes - still held 110 microns. I then put the valve in and let a little refrigerant into the lines to build pressure, when everything was good I let all the refrigerant in tested for valve leaks and then removed the valve removal tool. My thinking is that the fewer connections the better, my system vacuumed to ~110 microns.
Sounds like you did a great job! Yes, you want the fewest connections when you're pressure testing or pulling a vacuum. Keep up the good work and have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thanks. I think one thing I would change is that instead of replacing the valve at max vacuum I'd bring up the pressure slightly so that the it's just slightly positive 410A side so it's pretty much in balance. I did check the Appion valve tool and with vacuum it's showing ~18 microns with the valve opened. By the way the CPS Vg-200 meter is good for 450 psi with a burst of 3k psi, so even if it was full pressure from the mini it still wouldn't have a problem although I don't like to test that. As always you've been great help and I very much appreciate your videos and input.
Great video. I was able to piece this process together a few years back when I installed one at my house, but this video perfectly explains the procedure all in one concise video.
I am planning on installing a mini split for my 2nd story and wanted to know about making line sets. I stumbled across your video, and in the beginning thought you were too detailed. But after watching the entire series, i understand why. You Sir, are a dedicated individual. RU-vid could use more individuals like you that are more geared towards making sure your viewers understand the process and not trying to make Discovery Channel entertainment.
Thank you fatnate1000 and I always believe that if one wants to do a job, I'll try to make it detailed so that an individual can see the steps involved. Yes, if I was to make a three minute, what would be the point of making the video if you don't know how to do the job. Thanks again for watching the series as I appreciate it!
Your timing couldn't be better.I'm a homeowner installing a 3 head unit. Got an est. of 15K. Thanks to your videos you saved me about 5K inc. tool purchases!
Excellent tutorial! I’m preparing for a dual zone mini-split installation. Your tutorial has confirmed my decision go acquire a micro gage to perform the mini-split vacuum.
I do have a couple of follow up questions. 1) I have purchased a dual zone Gree heat pump. After reviewing installation guides and on line tutorials I have concluded that given that the install will have line sets less than 25 feet, adding refrigerant will not be required.....is this correct? 2). This installation will be a swap out of an older existing mini-split. I am assuming that there will be special processes in handling the refrigerant lines and disposal of the heat pump. Is this correct?
Ok, I feel like an idiot. But it's my first mini split install. I pressure tested and evacuated my first lineset, then released the refrigerant into that lineset. I thought, Oh boy let's try it out. Head unit blows hot air, condenser fan is running , but no cooling going on. Ok, I figure I must need to hook up the other linesets to lower refrigerant pressure. I'm rewatching Stuzman doing his release of refrigerant and then I see him open another valve on the pressure side of compressor. I think, wow, I didn't open the valve on high side. I open it, then turn system on and to my amazement, the head unit starts blowing cool air!! What a Newb I am!! I'm glad I rewatched his video. He saved my day. Now to hook up the other two head units to the compressor. I'm really jazzed!!! Thank you Mr Stuzman!
Great video. It would be a good idea to exercise the valves of these 2 Core Removal Tools during the vacuum process. There are some air sealed inside these valves.
Great video ! This is the only way to perform the vacuum procedure. After valving off the core removal tool, I’ve never before seen the micron gauge continue to decrease. I’ve always had it increase slightly as the vacuum equalises throughout the lineset
Nice! Exactly how I installed mine.... tools too but I snagged a cheap US made vacuum pump 😉. You did your homework and to anyone watching this is how it’s done
I have never installed an AC unit and been reading up on them. I am not an installer and have considered doing my own as the cost locally are really high >$30k for 2k home. I am an engineer so technical but there are so many things one does not know that they don't even know they don't know. The video was very detailed and you really like to be precise and that was great to see. I may just take the task on for at least my home office. I hope I have the patience to do it right like you did. I wish you were nearby and I would be your customer.
Thank you Barry for the comments! As you are an engineer, you know that any project is all about the details. I'm quite sure that if you were to install your own unit, you would research those details that you weren't sure about, and you would have an installation that you would be happy with. Thanks again Barry and have a great weekend coming up!
I just wanted to thank you for the great instructional videos. I completed my first mini split install (Mitsubishi) , following your detailed steps. These are appreciated!
I watched this video about a dozen times back in 2019 while doing a $250K renovation on a early 1900, 4,200 ft2 house. I gained enough confidence to do the whole house in Mitsubishi mini-splits. Yea, I was a little nervous but I was confident enough to take the chance to save more than $26,000 over having to pay someone. That system had 3 condensers and 13 heads and the install was nearly flawless...! ( I made one bad flare) I talked to the lady I sold the house to in early 2024 and she said the system still runs PERFECT. I've now installed two more systems for family (a single head and a two zone) and I'm in the planning stage for a 3 condenser, 11 head system in another restoration project. STUZMAN... YOU ARE THE BOMB! Easy to listen to and tells you everything you need to know. Good job .
The only thing I may add is I would put the service valve cap on loose to check for leaks out of Schraeder port. Seems easier to check for leaks when I can maybe just see a few bubbles.
Hi Stuzman....I hope all is well. It's been 3 years since you helped direct me on some questions that I had on installing a mini split at my previous home. I have since moved to Colorado...and am installing 4 more Bosch mini splits. I made a stupid mistake the other day when trying to commission the first one... I vacuumed it down to 150 microns...and it held 170 for about an hour. I normally always break the vacuum with nitrogen, check for pressure leaks, and vacuum down again. Well...I ran out of Nitrogen so...I just followed the normal procedure. Unfortunately...I didn't check all the connections immediately after releasing the refrigerant. The line set connection to the indoor unit on the low pressure side blew out refrigerant. I didn't realize it until I started troubleshooting the next day when it stopped blowing warm air. The indoor unit is supposed to display a code for low refrigerant...but it did not. I put my pressure gauge on the service valve...and it was minimal if at all while running the AC. My plan was to recapture what refrigerant was remaining in the compressor...but since there was no pressure to speak of...all I could think to do was to close the ports to hopefully protect the compressor from air in system? I am getting my nitrogen refilled to hopefully not repeat same mistake. I don't mind buying refrigerant and scale and trying to correct my mistake. Curious as to your thoughts if I should have a service call to retest and refill...or make the investment? Thank you...
Hi Steve! Since you probably won't make this mistake again, you probably wouldn't use the scales again and it may be an issue to buy R410a if that's what your system is using if you don't have a certification license. Maybe the service call would be the best. Have a great day Steve!
one of the few diy vids that actually does it right. Gotta love the guys using dial gauges in other vids and saying they work good enough, yeah they work good enough to get the job done and get out of there before the compressor blows. Really tho anyone not using a micron meter might get lucky but it's just that, luck, cause you really don't know..
I think this video and use of correct equipment are top notch. That said, as a DIY guy, and not thinking I would install more than 1 or 2 units, for myself, i chose not to buy a fancy vacuum pump or micron gauge. Instead I unscrewed the intake valve on my air compressor and screwed in a couple of fittings to connect to a cheap set of gauges. I do purge with nitrogen and bubble test and then vacuum down to almost neg 30 " HG with my old compressor and regular gauges.. I don't let all of the nitrogen out before vacuuming- i vacuum it out so no air and moisture can enter. Having now installed 7 in the last few years, and with 2 more to put in soon (all for family for free) I could now have justified the real vacuum pump and micron gauge, but I have gotten by fine with only the manifold gauges. A micron gauge would be sweet to have, but if you clearly have no leaks in the bubble / pressure test and then you vacuum it all out, you will be fine with only rudimentary gauges. The expensive tools are great if you want to do a bunch, but not essential. Great video Mr. Stuzman. Many DIYers will benefit and step up to do this now.. I even had two units need recharging (one developed a pinhole leak in the factory brazing around the reversing valve after 3 years and one had a faulty expansion valve). I was able to buy a bottle of R410 at a decent price on-line and ship from USA to Canada no issue. Brazed in new parts each time, pressure/bumble test, vacuum and weighed out refrigerant charge on a good (borrowed) set of scales as i charged unit... that was several years ago and still going strong. Its not rocket science- watch good videos like this one, but basic tools and save some cash!
@@jdarrellsteele3264 I wouldn't let you install a heat pump in a dog house. Yes your setup may let you know if there's major leaks, BUT that's all. Most heat pump manufacturers call for 500 microns or less, (which you can't even read with a dial guage) and there's a reason for that. There could be moisture in the system for example and you would never know it without the micron guage. When your cousin tony's compressor dies after 2 years you'll be like, man we won't be getting that brand again! When in reality it's actually your fault because you were just rolling dice hoping for the best. I installed ny first pump with dial guages 4 or 5 years ago and it's still going strong, but I realized later that I got lucky, simple as that..
@@neallyons9515 I do appreciate you saying that you have previously installed them with dial gauges and have since learned better. Learning is the reason I re-searched youtube, after not having installed any in about 3 years now. The 7 that I have installed have all been running between 3 and 7 years, but as I have 2 more to do soon, I wanted to see if any better videos existed than what was out there several years ago. I am glad I did. I am considering buying the CPS digital/micron gauge but will likely not put in many more after these two. As mentioned, I have only done this for family members for free.. they know our setup is crude and I will talk to them about the option of chipping in a bit to cover the costs of the gauges if they want to ensure success or if they prefer to do as we have before. I agree that I do not know how complete of a vacuum I have achieved, when using the dial gauges. But, the compressor is strong enough to pull the dial gauges down quickly and then I leave it running for a good length of time after that, knowing that it is continuing to pull finer amounts out the longer it is left on. re: possible moisture left in there, I doubt that would be the case, as I have purged the lines (and indoor coil) with nitrogen (cracking the opposite line fitting and letting all of the air out followed by a couple of minutes of nitrogen before tightening the fitting and pressure testing.) Then this is all vacuumed out, without letting air back in.... I release enough of the nitrogen to be at a few psi and then I turn the compressor on, and slowly open the valve. So, i could have some small amounts of nitrogen in there (knowing this is not ideal either..) but there is no chance of moisture being in there. If I do decide to buy a micron gauge, It looks like it's best to then buy 2 core removal tools and the reviews on cheaper ones are not great... the ones linked in this video have great reviews but at about $53 USD or $90 Cdn for me, two of these plus the CPS micron gauge( least expensive one i have seen with good reviews) adds another $220 Cdn so all totalled it would be pushing $500 Cdn for this added ability. If i have 5 more to do, it would be an easier choice. Still I would then be increasing chances of success and would have them for the future, if any of the others need work/ recharging, etc.
@@Froggability I think this video and use of correct equipment are top notch. That said, as a DIY guy, and not thinking I would install more than 1 or 2 units, for myself, i chose not to buy a fancy vacuum pump. Instead I unscrewed the intake valve on my air compressor and screwed in a couple of fittings to connect to a cheap set of gauges. I do purge with nitrogen and bubble test and then vacuum down to almost neg 30 " HG with my old compressor.. I don't let all of the nitrogen out before vacuuming- i vacuum it out so no air and moisture can enter. Having now installed 7 in the last few years, and with 2 more to put in soon (all for family for free) I could now have justified the real vacuum pump and micron gauge, but I have gotten by fine with only the manifold gauges. A micron gauge would be sweet to have, but if you clearly have no leaks in the bubble / pressure test and then you vacuum it all out, you will be fine with only rudimentary gauges. The expensive tools are great if you want to do a bunch, but not essential. Great video Mr. Stuzman. Many DIYers will benefit and step up to do this now.. I even had two units need recharging (one developed a pinhole leak in the factory brazing around the reversing valve after 3 years and one had a faulty expansion valve). I was able to buy a bottle of R410 at a decent price on-line and ship from USA to Canada no issue. Brazed in new parts each time, pressure/bumble test, vacuum and weighed out refrigerant charge on a good (borrowed) set of scales as i charged unit... that was several years ago and still going strong. Its not rocket science- watch good videos like this one, but basic tools and save some cash!
Loving what your doing I actually run the same setup . However knock the second t off BluVac is pressure rated and refrigerant doesn’t effect the gauge at all just clean out with alcohol if any issues . The extra removal tool is just extra connections for leaks .
One more question if you please... I purchased a Senville 18K BTU Heat Pump H.S. pressure is 550 psig; L.S. pressure is 340 psig. When you performed a leak test, the lines were pressurized to 200 psig. Was that for a reason? I see others going up to 300 psig. Thanks! JT
No particular reason on the 200psig. Even at this pressure, you'll still be able to see a leak. In your case, I wouldn't push the pressure near the maximum of your lowest test pressure that was used at the factory. In your case, I would go for about 250psig and you'll be fine. At 300psig, you'll be getting pretty close to 340psig. At 250psig, you'll be allowing yourself a little margin of safety. Good luck on your installation!
Is that the pioneer stand? I am about to order my unit and tools..Thanks for the videos you do it right with no missed steps...Its worth it to me to spend the extra money on the tools and learn.. Its still way cheaper than hiring a guy who may or may not do it right.
Hi Dave! The stand was ordered from Amazon and is located here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I made some modifications to the stand where one was to shorten the legs. Yes, it helps to have the correct tools to do the job and you are correct that it's not a guarantee that a professional will do the job correctly. For the same size unit as mine, my neighbor says that a contractor wants $5000 to install it. That's a pretty hefty price. Have a great day and good luck on your install.
Great Viseo Thanks, I Have the Same Unit it lasted 1.5 Years the Comp Went recovered charge, No Loss, Seems either I got a bad One or they are making bad units! Bye Mitsubishi They Last Put many in for Cust. w/ No problems!
Great. I never saw you check the pressure on the high or low side after refilling the system however. I would think that you would do that when you first turned the system on for at least a few minutes. If you had lost some refridgerant, your low-side pressure would be too low, wouldn't it?
It's not necessary as the amount of refrigerant in taking off a line is minimal which is not going to effect the low side pressure to the point where the unit will not work.
so i could prolly just use some 1/4 ball valve on the micron cage when i dont have 2 core tools and a hose before micron cage would ruin the readings too much ?
Great video, I am watching it again and again, and the more I understand the procedure the more questions I get :) 1. In the video about nitrogen test you used yellow jacket. Am I right we can just use the same micron gauge for the nitrogen pressure test? 2. I watched another video about triple evacuation - so one difference I found important: they first create a vacuum, and then introduce nitrogen, while you just introduce nitrogen into unpressurized lines. I would guess vacuum-then-nitrogen is cleaner. Any comments, please? Thanks again
In regards to your question #1, no, the micron gauge should not be used to measure the pressure of nitrogen in the system as the micron gauge is designed to measure vacuum. And you'll find that it can't measure pressure above atmospheric pressure. On mine it won't register any pressure until it gets to below 20,000 microns which is about 0.38psig. As for triple evacuation where one begins the evacuation with nitrogen is not really needed as it takes hours to assume that the nitrogen will absorb the moisture. Or that it really doesn't absorb the moisture but displaces it. The vacuum pump will lower the pressure, boil the water vapor at a lower temperature and then the pump will evacuate the water vapor. Here is an article where this is discussed it and in my opinion, triple evacuation is not really needed. hvacrschool.com/triple-evacuation-and-nitrogen-facts/
No problem at all at applying a very small amount of Nylog blue to the seal on the schrader valve. Also, you could apply a small amount of Nylog to the cone of the flaring tool as a lubricant when making your flares. And you could apply a small amount around the flare fitting. And be sure to torque the flares and not use an adjustable wrench to be sure that they're not over tightened.
@@stuzman52 Did a pressure test this morning (250 psi for 3 hours; rock solid! Pulled vacuum down to 64 microns in about 25 minutes (new pump and oil). Will see what the vacuum level is tomorrow. Maybe even do a test run! Thanks for the videos!
@@stuzman52 Up and running! I have a brand new Appion MegaFlow suction hose (p/n MH380006EAB) 5/16" one end / 1/4" other end. I will never use it since the pump I got has just 1/4" fittings. If you could use it, it's yours - no charge. Look at as a token of my appreciation for the excellent mini-split videos you posted! Let me know...
I've never done one with multiple zones, but each zone should have a separate valve. I would suspect that you would pressure test and vacuum each zone separately.
Love these videos of yours! Quick question about the mounting system that you have attached the condenser to; could you provide a source url etc., for the frame & is that a regular paving stone you have it anchored to?
Glad to hear Tim that you're enjoying the videos. As for the outdoor unit stand, it was ordered from Amazon where the link is here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I shortened the legs a little, replaced all the fasteners with stainless steel and repainted the assembly. As for the pad, I poured a concrete slab for it. Have a great day Tim!
You can't connect the micron gauge to the high side as there is no port to connect anything to. If you were working on a unit where there are two ports, the difference in pressure would be negligible. You always want to connect the micron gauge as close as possible to the unit which will be the furthest away from the vacuum pump.
Enjoyed the video. If the unit was empty would weigh the refrigerant in using the liquid line port off the compressor or would you add it on the suction line port where the line set attaches. Trying not to flood the compressor. Thank you
You'll only have one port to add the refrigerant. I would just put the refrigerant in as a liquid without the unit running. It's the same procedure when charging a vehicle. It's charged with a liquid without the engine running. As the liquid goes into the system, it will flash into a gaseous state. And since the unit is not running, you don't have to worry about flooding the compressor.
all good on the evacuation but the follow me button on the remote has to be pointing towards the inside head to work properly... not a big fan of the madia product...they make a lot of these units under different names
No one else put a vacuum on this thing, so nice to see someone do it right... But honestly, why remove the valve core in the first place? I can't imagine it saves that much time when vacuuming.
In a case like that, I would remove the valve core and installed it one more time and recheck for bubbles. If there were still bubbles, then I would replace the valve core with another one. :)
Why are the service ports closed during this whole process and do you close them before recovery or what’s the deal with the service ports on these heat pumps I can’t figure out how you do recovery and vac with the ports closed 🤦🏻♂️ someone help I’m a first year tech
Hi Danny and hope you're doing well! Probably need to define two terms, evacuation and recovery. Recovery is when you will remove all of the refrigerant in the system and requires a unit made to just that. Evacuation is the removal of air within the line-set and requires a vacuum pump and gauge to monitor the process. When you purchase a mini-split or any other a/c unit, the service valves are closed from the factory and the refrigerant is stored in the outdoor coil. The line-set and indoor coil is evacuated, (remove the air). Then you open the service valves to allow the refrigerant in the outdoor coil to enter into the line-set and indoor coil. Of course, before you open the service valves, you want to be sure that there are no leaks in the system.
I have a pre-charged line set that has been vacuumed and filled with R-410a refrigerant from the factory, but I need to shorten its length. Since the lines are factory pre-charged, is there anything special I need to do aside from vacuuming the lines and checking the microns before releasing the R-410a refrigerant from the condenser?
If you can recover the refrigerant from the lines, everything will be as you mentioned except maybe doing a pressure test of the line set before evacuating.
One quick question. When you put the valve core back into the service port, Wouldent there be a small air pocket in the valve core removal tool that gets into the system??
To install the valve core under vacuum with minimum contamination, I'd say put the gauge on side port 2 and the vacuum hose on extremity 2 instead of 1, and keep pulling while you open 1 and install the core. Better to install it without vacuum. Crack the gas service valve until the gauge reads ATM, close the valve, remove the gauge and install the core.
That will work also but not a guarantee that the system is sealed tight. Higher pressures such as when using nitrogen will tend to show very small leaks where it could take hours or days when checking for leaks using vacuum only. On one occasion with an automotive a/c system, I left the vacuum overnight and the vacuum readings looked good the next day! Then the refrigerant was added into the system and several days later, a very small leak was found. Now to be sure of small leaks, I'll add nitrogen to the system to look for very small leaks.
Hi have 24000 btu air split runing in heat mode whet temp 70 it runing worm but put the unit to the more 80 and temp no change can u help me why no heat more thank you
I was told by some people that micron gauges can handle up to around 500psi of pressure so do i really have to isolate the gauge with a 2nd valve? I'm trying to avoid having to buy more tools than I need. Good video btw.
Hi Mike! It's true that most if not all micron gauges can handle a higher pressure. I'm anal in my thinking that a vacuum gauge should be used for lower pressures rather than subjected to higher pressures. But again, the gauge should be able to handle the higher pressures. As Shaun mentioned, you may get refrigerant oil on the sensor which could effect the accuracy of the gauge. If that happens, isoproyl alcohol is used to clean the sensor. So, if you want to use the micron gauge without the isolating valve, you should be okay.
Sometimes we take the cool for granted. Working in extreme temperatures ain't pleasant. Remember relining a large kiln with fire bricks and was given 3 minutes. Wooden clogs on the feet ,quick shifts and plenty of drinking water.
Having pressure on the valve core would ensure there wouldn't be any chance of the atmosphere coming back into the system. It's a standard practice to install the valve core while under pressure.
Thanks for sharing. Best video out there on evacuating a mini split. QUESTION: Is the core removal on the CORE REMOVAL TOOL, overkill? How much refrigerate would be lost otherwise? (I'm not against overkill. I just wonder if pros do it, or just overkill?)
It's a standard practice in the field which allows the vacuum pump to pull a deep vacuum without the restriction of the valve core and it does speed up the evacuation process. I have seen others in the field not do this in order to save time, but in my opinion, it's a better method when doing a evacuation.
Hi Luis! The micron gauge coupler that I used doesn't have a depressor for the schrader valve. However, I did remove the schrader valve from the core tool that the micron gauge connected to. It really doesn't matter whether this schrader valve is removed or not. Have a great day!
I used a few different micron gauges and I never had a stable vacuum in my life, when you close your pump, it always rises and rises and rises no matter what hoses I use or what installation I do. With or without valve remover etc.. from 300 to 1000+ microns in 2 hour for example. Never had any visible leak even with any electronic or bubble detector
@@stuzman52 didn't mentionned that i put my vacuum gauge on my 4way manifold, i'm pretty sure the problem is on my manifold. Anyway, super deep vacuum is not necessary when the temperature isn't too low. The most important thing is to make sure you properly evaporate all micro liquid h20 that remains in your system. Even at zero Celsius, I use a heat gun on the exernal unit to reduce the necessity of an hardcore vacuum
In order to find small leaks, you should pressurize the system with nitrogen. If you use vacuum, you may not find a small leak. And if there is a leak, how are you going to know where the leak is under a vacuum? Also, it is a MUST that you vacuum the system of air. Have a great day!
I am interested to know how you routed the compressor's condensate drain to prevent a large winter ice block forming under the (and maybe in!) compressor in the winter? Good video. Doug
There isn't a vacuum mode whether it's a new install or an installation that's already been installed. In your case where the system has been installed, the refrigerant is already in the lines. The recommended procedure is to recover the refrigerant with a machine that will pump it into a tank. Once the refrigerant has been removed from the system, then a vacuum pump can be installed on the system to remove the air. And after the system has been pulled into a vacuum, the refrigerant is weighed back into the system. Have a great day!
Thanks for the quick response! I wasn’t sure if these systems had internal electronic metering valves. I can’t find anything in the manual i downloaded.
