This channel will be composed mostly of auto repair and preventive maintenance procedures. As with most of these videos, they usually turn into video series which starts out with showing the problem, followed by understanding the system which is important to be able to troubleshoot it. Then comes wiring diagrams and from that, we develop a plan for diagnosis. Finally, the diagnosis methods are shown along with the repair at the end. During this process, several types of equipment are used such as digital volt-ohm-meter (DVOM), scanners and oscilloscopes. Thanks to everyone for watching the videos, and I hope that all of your repairs are successful!
Less than 2 minutes in and I can already tell this man knows his stuff and is going to make a great video about the subject. I appreciate the explanation of how all this works. Will make future work a lot simpler
Hello, I have a serious question. I want to update my 3.0.20204 version with F11 EU maps to the latest 3.4.xxxxx (although Ford announced officialy the 3.0.23219 version and probably F12 maps). However, CyanLabs in their site suggest the following about AUTOINSTALL METHOD: "You can't use this method to go from 1.x , 2.x or 3.0 to 3.4". For the REFORMAT METHOD they mention "Can be used to upgrade from 1.x, 2.x and 3.0 to 3.4". So, according to them, I should choose the REFORMAT method. But in your video, you have selected the autoinstall directly from 3.0 to 3.4. Will it work properly during installation? In your video, you are reading the reformat instructions although you had chosen autoinstall during the download. I've also noticed in Syn3 Updater, down left it has "automatically chosen" reformat mode. Thanks in advance. My car is a 2017 Ford Focus. The region is Europe.
I couldn't really tell you which is the best method. I would hate to tell you a method and then something happens during the update process. Hope you have a great day!
Exactly what I needed. Tested the valve as shown and it would go to about 5 inches of vacuum and then drop to 0. Then I tapped on the valve a few times and it started holding a full vacuum. The sad thing is, I had replaced it only 2 years ago, so I don't feel really confident in the quality of AC Delco parts anymore.
Not sure as I'm not a VW expert. However, check out the RU-vid channel of Thomas EXOVCDS who works on these cars everyday for a living. He should be able to answer your question. Have a great day!
Using this software am I able to add maps to my head unit? I had sync2.0 then purchase a sync 3.4 module to replace it. But now I am missing gpsmaps functionality even though I had it before.
Can't answer your question. However, the author of the software has a website in the description. There is a community there which have lots of questions. You may do a search to find your answer or post your question there and someone may help you.
Thank you for your video I want to put mini split and was thinking save here, save here etc. you have convicted me 100 % that saving would not be a good idea, I am more or less your age and I still remember how nice mercury moves on hands, how little was not said about how poisonous it can be , one again thank you for your story not only you moved me 35 years back or so but also helped me a lot to answer all questions I had today
This is a great video. So glad I watched it before attempting to change out the broken glass in my 1994 Ranger. I would have broken the door clips I'm sure and would not have figured out how to take the plastic spacers apart that hold the glass in place. Thank you very much!
Hello there, I have just started the search for information to fix my air compressor Makita AC1300. Your film is the first one that I have come across. Can you help please. The problem I have with my compressor is that it will not restart after it has run low of air. It will start from the beginning with no air in the tank and build up to the required pressure. But once the air as depleted down to a lower level it struggles to restart. It just turns over slowly and does not restart. If the air is completely emptied from the air tank it will then restart. I have had the compressor for some years.!I bought it off eBay and it was only a matter of months old. It was stated that it was an ex display model ??? It may be better if I take a film of what I'm saying is going on with the machine. If I upload it onto RU-vid I can then let you know the link. Might be can be for other people to repair their machine with the same problem. Do you think it might be some pressure valve or sensor. Thank you for any help. Kind regards, Daniel King.
Not sure how I see the correlation between an air conditioning compressor and an air compressor. In any event, take a look at your pressure regulator switch assembly. There would be a cut-in and cut-out for a set of contact which allows the compressor to start and stop. It sounds like you have an issue with the cut-in stage of this assembly. Good luck!
please help the automotive guys. they just dont get it. take time and watch those top utube guys doing ac, it will make u pull ur hair out. when u got to a dealer or any shop for car ac good luck.
Wow, from a beginner's learning point of view, this was an excellent learning video. Thank you for taking the time to break things down the way you did.
I love and used this video to replace my 2010 Ford Edge SE alternator as Stuzman and his amazing wife / camera person combined to very sharp in showing what was being done, why, and what sized gizmo you need to do it. I do wish he'd shown the initial install of the new one as seeing what he said is better than just hearing it. Once I understood him properly the new alternator went right in. You will need narrow / shallow ratchets n stuff for those PIA tight spots like the man said. my normal size 3/8 ratchet wouldn't fit the tensioner so I used a massive crowbar and small stone for the crowbar as added leverage to move that tensioner. I saved $300 doing it myself. Thanks, Stuzman! smashed my pinky nail but I got less nicks n cuts than you did! lol
Of all the "DIY" videos I have watched on RU-vid, this is one of the most comprehensive. YOu showed all of the In-and-Outs of each step. Thank you for a thorough job!
Hi Terry ~ As with your vacuum test video, I really enjoy your down to earth, no BS, way of explaining what you're doing while you work. The main question that I came away with after watching this particular video, however, is the capacity of your N2 (Nitrogen) tank? Another thing that has me wondering is, for folks like us who live in very cold climates, is the minimum test pressure to apply for leak testing heating systems. To clarify, I've been told that a 410A mini split system can operate at pressures as high as 400 PSI during the winter, so I'm thinking that one may want to leak test a new mini split system at 400 PSI instead of 200 PSI? Do you have any thoughts about this, sir?
Most people think that you must pressurize the system to the maximum pressure that the system will operate. This implies that a leak can not be found unless it has this maximum pressure. 200 psi is more than enough to find a leak, even a small one. However, if one wants to increase the pressure then one can do it. Thanks for watching and sharing a comment. Have a great day!
I don't know if you still monitor this video, Mr Stuzman, but I want you to know that it's very nice to view a thoughtful/helpful (and extremely practical) video made by a fellow southerner. I really wish there were many many more like it. A whole lot less BS and a whole lot more down to earth information is what folks struggling to make ends meet actually need to keep from being taken advantage of by those who would prey on people in need. Our 12-year old Mitsubishi mini split went down after a nearby lightning strike, so we've been without AC for most of the summer. Considering that the insurance company offered us just over $300 to have repair work performed - and the local HVAC thieves wanted as much as $10K to replace our (single zone) mini split system - we decided to buy our own system and give it a go: we didn't have much choice. The point being that your video has gone an awful long way toward giving us the confidence to test out our own new system before possibly wasting the expensive refrigerant that came with our 24K BTU condenser unit! Thank you, sir, I have both liked and subscribed to your channel.
10K to install a single stage unit is pretty high. Good for you to install the system yourself and save some money. Since your last unit was taken out by a lightning strike, you may want to consider installing a suppression unit on the voltage input side of the system. Good luck with your install. Thanks for watching and sharing a comment. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for the reply, Terry. I'd like to ask you a question, sir. Why is your BluVac micron gauge mounted the way that it is? Is that a special adapter you're using to get more clearance for the gauge?
@@user-cd7jx2td8n The bent tubing that you see attached to the micron gauge comes with the micron gauge. If you're referring to the valve underneath it, that was installed to keep refrigerant oil from contaminating the sensor located in the micron gauge. Otherwise, when the refrigerant oil gets on the sensor, it would have to be cleaned. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Hi Terry ~ Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. By the way, I wanted to ask for your thoughts on my vacuum procedure. Late Thursday night, after completing a successful nitrogen pressure test, I set everything up exactly as you did in this video. The only things different in my setup were the absence of the bent 45-degree tubing I already asked about and the fact that I used a CPS VG200 micron gauge. It took roughly 10 minutes to get the vacuum in the setup down to 180 microns. About 20 minutes later, however, the vacuum had changed to 340 microns. As this reading was below the 500 micron limit, I went ahead and released the refrigerant stored in our new outdoor condenser unit. So far, the system seems to be working well, but I still wanted to ask you if the 160 micron reduction in vacuum that I observed (over 20 minutes) was a cause for concern?
@@user-cd7jx2td8n No, there is no need for concern on 160 micron level. It's normal for the system to pull to a lower level while the vacuum pump is running. And then when you close the valve and turn off the vacuum pump, the micron level will rise. The key is that it doesn't continue rising after a few minutes which signifies a leak. Another video that you may find interesting about a rising vacuum level is this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cI6pSBaskjc.html Have a great weekend!
I liked the video. This very important the maintenance of this motor. I go make maintenance in my Passat VR6 and help understand how make right. Thanks for video!!
So did cleaning the carburetor fix the running problem? I didn't really see anything in your cleaning of it that would have caused your problem of running good for 10 minutes and dying. My buddy' Mule is doing the same thing.
@stuzman52 I seen that. Usually, though, a blocked jet will cause running issues from the start, not after 10 minutes. Just trying to figure this one out!
Fantastic series excellent video very professional and thanks for putting this out there. I am going to attempt to do this to my 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0. Thanks for being so accurate.
Thank you for your very instructive video. My son in law and I followed your vid and replaced the alternator in their 2014 Ford Edge V6. It would have been much harder without your helpful instruction. I loved it when you started measuring the resistance from the terminals on the old alternator and then said what does that mean, I don't know. We had a big laugh over that and needed one about that time, thanks again!
Absolutely fantastic presentation. The knowledge and experience is 10/10. Rarely do I click any subscribe button after viewing a single video, but in this case it's warranted. Again, excellent work. Thank you.
This man is an actual REAL auto mechanic. I haven't seen one like him in about 25 years. I subscribed to your channel. You are one of only 7 channels have subscribed to in 5 years of watching You Tube videos.
Some people just soder a new cheap thermistor to module for a cheap fix and in most cases it starts to work fine. It's a straight forward procedure you just snip the thermistor soder new one . Just FYI.
I just replaced motor and module as one unit. Got it from same place as you. My module was doing something I’ve never seen before. On mine this time the fan was running all the time. The problem was not the setting on the thermostat. It was problem in the control module. It is working fine now with new motor and module.
Very complete video thank you. Right now my speed wires are on white to #4 and blue to #2 . I have a small 1500 sq ft house and motor or fan speed noise is bearable but kinda loud. Where do you recommend hooking up those wires to make ac/fan sound quieter ? I did look at your diagram but was not sure if I can change wire location. I just installed a new motor with module attached. Thank you.
Don't have a answer for you. Go to the website in the description and there are users who post questions to the program. Also, they have a search function for issues.
They sell these mini splits under the suggestion that they are user-friendly and rather simply DIY projects. I have found the whole project to be EXTREMELY difficult and very time consuming. Plus, like clockwork, I keep returning to hardware stores and online ordering to be MANY specialized tools which I have never before needed in my life. Plus, in my own case, I have faced a mountain of obstacles that are not encountered in any of the installation videos I have seen. I am quite handy and experienced with tools, and have countless tools, but I doubt I will ever again use these many hundreds dollars worth of new special tools acquired for this installation. It has been a long time, and still nowhere close to finished.
I've viewed a few videos for this, and your video is great. My Edge is a 2008, so I almost didn't watch it, but it is in the same spot and configuration. I'll be watching your video again as I approach doing mine here soon. What is your recommendation when it comes to the replacement part? Did you do OEM Motorcraft, or something else? Thanks again.
I had the same concerns about the generator as there are quite a few video out there showing a replacement generator didn't work out of the box. I used the lifetime warranty generator from O'Reillys and this generator is still working to this day. Have a great day!
Hello, thanks for the videos, they have a lot of information and they help a lot. I have a question and I hope you can answer it. From which page do you get the diagrams to know the torque?
