Time Stamps Disassemble original RM motor mount: 0:15 Installing aluminium motor mount: 1:27 Dealing with the motor: 3:28 Gear mesh setup: 6:31 Installing oil shock: 9:30 Testing: 11:08
Where the stock suspension connects to the back end of the body, that plastic broke for me. This mounting style looks like a more solid solution than super glue. Excellent video, and thanks for helping me!
The T-bar breaks pretty easily. The rear motor catcher/clip also breaks easily. So far I haven't got any problem with this motor mount yet and it doesn't hit the body I use (The old NSX).
have u upgraded the tires?` for tracks like the kyosho ones, get "pn soft" tires for front and "pn super soft" tires for the rear. :) for carpet its some other ones. tires make most of the performance of mini z
Thanks for the suggestion. I've just got Kyosho radial 30 degree front and 20 degrees rear but haven't installed them yet. I run my car mainly on dirty office floor so I'm also looking at GQ foam tyres. I really want to try PN and Marka too.
Yes, you can use any motor mount. MM also works with this chassis. Diff is the same as RM. But the wheelbase will change according to the motor mount you use. MM with RM T-plate will start from 102mm wheelbase so you'll have to change the T-plate too to get 98mm wheelbase. Which body are you going to use it with?
I use multiprotocol module. Here's the video tutorial. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zJmg_gv34us.html Actually the FHS and FHSS doesn't mean it would connect to each other. It just says "frequency hopping spread spectrum" technique to avoid interference. What makes Tx talks to Rx is protocol. I forgot to mention Mini-Z FHS is actually FlySky AFHDS protocol. You can use FlySky radio with it too. Here's the tutorial. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fX0REIw1GRA.html
Hello, could you recommend please good grip max sticky tires of PVC laminate for MR03? I understand that laminat is not the bast surface for non drift car, but it all what I have. :)
Mini-Z radial tyres. It works even on dusty surface. Use more degrees at the front than back eg. 30 degrees narrow front + 20 degrees wide rear. If the back has more grip it won't spin out easily.
It's very simple. I just use the pieces I have. Basically it's Lego Technics, stack in 2 layers and held together with black pecks. The pieces you need are long 5-12 holes and L shape pieces to make it rigid. Here are some photos so you can adapt it to the pieces you have. imgur.com/oaH7JV9 imgur.com/iUsKrCT imgur.com/PPDfgew imgur.com/xYg3ZXe ps. It's not the most financially sounded stand because you can get PN Racing foam car stand for about 2-3 Euros but I didn't have to pay for it.
Right now I'm using Radiolink RC3S hooked up to multiprotocol box. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zJmg_gv34us.html I might change it to Futaba 3PK with multiprotocol box soon.
Really difficult because the steering is limited. However if you have 3D printer you can print a new chassis to have enough steering, install all new electronics along with gyro and use just the motor mount from the original car. But that's not really a Mini-Z is it?
Yes, you can. Just check if you have the wheels for the width you are going to buy. If it's all narrow then it's pretty standard. Some cars come with all narrow out of the box. If it's all wide then the front might look a bit weird but you can use them.
@@BeaversHobby For Mr03 front are narrow, rear are wider. Mean I have to buy 2 different sets of 4 tires each pack? Seem I need your advise for selecting a set of tires😊 to play indoor home tiles
@@fwfefrtefdv4719 Yes, in this case you will have to buy 2 sets, one narrow and one wide. As for the shore (tyre number) it depends on the track but generally 30 is good. If you roll over in the corners then tune the suspension first, make the spring stiffer. If it still rolls then you will have to decrease the grip at the front by using a higher number (40). Or increase the grip at the back by using a lower number (20).
No, the one I need is motor mount and the one I removed is from plastic that has cracked. The plate is graphite and yes, it's stiffer than the one on this aluminium mount.
Diff is a bolt-on so tutorial isn't really needed. You can also see in this video that I just thread it through and lock it in place with grub screw. The best one right now is PN Racing (choose according to your motor mount because LM is wider). www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MR0203-V3-Ceramic-Ball-Diff-Set_p_42916.html The one from Mini-Z is great too but a tad more expensive.
Thanks for the info. I recently installed a xspeed motor and I think my diff is toast. 🙄 I expected it to be the first thing to go. I’ll look into the PN racing one. Hopefully I can find a cheaper price than what I’ve been seeing on eBay.. 🤑
Thanks for reminding me. Here you go. www.rcmart.com/kits-miniz-c-420_1184.html Normally you can buy it from local Kyosho dealer but I really should add link for international shop too.
