In Minimax 1100r Aircraft - Valve Adjustment and other Maintenance I do a required check of the head bolt torque and check of the valve clearance. Team Minimax Website www.teammini-m... Hummel Engines Website www.hummelengi...
Dennis, I believe you stated that you have the 45hp engine and I believe you also stated in your video that you have 8mm cylinder studs with a torque value of 18 ft/lbs. I have a 37hp Hummel Engine and it has the 10mm cylinder studs... I would suggest that you contact Scott at Hummel Engines to confirm the size of your cylinder bolts. Not trying to be picky but I wouldn't' want you to under torque the cylinder nuts. BTW... the actual stud shanks measure closer to 9mm; however, Scott confirmed with me that the bolt threads are 10mm... and torqued at the higher torque value of 23 ft/lbs. Thanks again for your video, Dennis from Michigan
We know the head nuts are at least 18 ft/lb, but what if they are at 25 or 30? Wouldn't the wrench click for all those levels of tightness? FYI the rocker adjusting screws are supposed to be offset to the side just a little. This is supposed to help with valve rotation to reduce wear.
One of them turned a little. Just have to trust that Scott got them right when he built the engine. Are you suggesting that I should have loosened them and then re-torqued?
@@DTMinimax To be absolutely certain that you have only 18 ft/lbs and no more the nuts should be loosened (only one at a time) and re-torqued to 18. Most people do not do this, which is probably OK but just had to mention. Perhaps at 50 hours you could do a re-torque. If you do re-torque, definitely re-check the valve lash.
Hello Dennis José Carlos from Brazil, the valve adjustment screws cannot rest in the center of the valve stems, they must be slightly moved to the side for the valves to rotate Thus avoiding localized wear
The rocker pads in my VW engine manual are not to be central but slightly set to one side. Good to see you do maintance. How many hours have you got on the Hurrymax now?
I believe they would work great if the cover was bolt on, but they failed completely. I had to go back to Scotts method. Cut a regular cork gasket seal the two parts together with the gray RTV, glue the gasket to the cover with the RTV, then oil the gasket and put a bead of RTV in the bottom corner on the cover and gasket and put it on. Not a single leak. The other one leaked before I got to the fuel island. I was certainly hoping since they’re washable.
