That is F-Ing brilliant and I come to you from Texas, the land of bad, cheap, ugly 1970's crows feet wall texture. I can only imagine how many marriages and the self-esteem of children everywhere I can save with this device.
Hi Greg, in all honesty I wouldn't use this sander on a textured surface and I only really use it for de-nibbing or fine sanding due to the fact it is on a long pole and it's nearly impossible to get the pressure on it the same as you can get with a hand sander like the deros. All the best, Joe
Is this suitable for preparing walls for painting, to avoid having th walls skimmed with plaster. Obviously if the walls are reasonably OK condition?? Anyone's advice is appreciated
Hi, no thiszwill not substitute a surface requiring skimming unless the decorator decides to face fill all defects with a filler or joint cement. I generally use this for de-nibbing surfaces that are generally in good condition and don't require too much filling....the head is too big for general repair work and I use a much smaller sander for that type of work for example the mirka deros or festool rts 400. The smaller ones are better suited to sanding smooth an area that has needed alot of filling to get smooth. This equipment was mainly made for taping and jointing (plaster board) which is on a perfectly flat surface with tape and filler to sand on the joints....so a large pad works well on this type of work, especially on ceilings
Hi buddy, thanks for this! Can I ask, could these walls be painted as they are now, or does every fleck of paint need to be fine from the plaster? Thanks again 🤠👍
No these walls as they are , are not ready for finish coats. They could potentially be primed, filled , spot primed then painted, but to make this surface good without lining is alot of work.
@@JoeProDecor haha, yeah that's what i'm going for at home but it's taking an age.. Think I've stumbled upon a cool trick of layering an area up with emulsion, then buffing it to glass with a 240grt ... Although I'm sure I'll find out the error of that months down the line 😕 thanks again 👍
Greetings from a city of Toronto taper! Wandering if I could just hook up a strong shop vac to the mirka and if it would do anywhere of a good job? Trying to save money on the mirka extractor but if not I guess I have to buy it too. Thanks for any feedback.
Hi David, hope you are well. It is not something i have done myself, but i know alot of dec's have done it with good results. I have heard of some vac's eventually blowing up...lol....so i think the drawback is longevity, but definately worth it short term until upgrading to a much longer lasting extractor. All the best, Joe
@@JoeProDecor Thank you. I see. I’d prefer the auto clean myself because then I won’t have to constantly keep stopping to to it manually. Well, “To each his own.” Right!
Can you use 120 grit to flatten out a painted wall of Sheetrock with a knockdown finish. Remove some of the paint prior to doing a skimcoat of plaster. Then rollout the plaster, smooth out then use the Leros for a level 4 or level 5 finish. I wonder how this compares to the new Festool Planex 2? They sell an extension for doing the ceiling?
Hi there, I'm sure there must be other video's on youtube showing this? As we do not install new drywall and dont use it for that purpose unfortunately. We use the leros for de-nibbing only purposes and it does it very well 👍
I used it on new drywall and it is the best sander i used. I tried festool it is not bad but heavy. This one works realy good and with vacuum there was no dust. I do drywall taping for living
Hi, yes of course, it could either be sanded or blade scraped(very time consuming) but then it would also need the walls sealing with something like zinsser gardz to seal in the old paste residue so it doesn't react with the paint. You can get away without having to use a sealer to hold back paste residue if the walls have been sanded back sufficiently but I dont recommend in this situation as the walls would be very chalky. This particular job was on a rental property where the landlord didn't want any unnecessary expense, and I know I am able to do it this way and still leave excellent results.when it was finished it was a flawless finish..but it is very important that the correct grade lining paper is chosen.
Free zinsser 123 is a bridging primer, or adhesion primer. So I would only use it as,a bridge from oil to water based or if I was asked to paint a hard to stick to surface like plastic, glass, tile ect....which tub I wouldn't want to paint as it's never long lasting enough. Bullseye 123 is good as a metal primer, and that is all I really use it for, never on walls or ceilings. If I want to block any stains, it would be either zinsser coverstain, or zinsser bin as the water based ones like 123 do not hold back alot of stains.
Exactly 👍 .. no jargon, just important, useful information that will hopefully assist anyone who is thinking of buying one. Thank you for your comment 👍
